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Rob's 300L Perigean Beach

Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

On a 120 I'd go for T5's or you'll need to spend like £700 on LED's to get enough lights.

3 x TMC grobeam tiles (1000nd) = at least £480
& the 8 way controller = at least £155
then you need an MMS rail and suspension kit = about £50

I'm in the same situation, I decided not to go for the NA lighting cause I wanted to have the adjustable output. The other alternative is an ATI sun power dimmable which looks amazing. The Arcadia OT2 looks good too and then you can buy a dimmer separately for like £150.

Have you ordered your set-up yet?

Hope this helps.
Dan
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

CHeers Dan. We are thinking along similar lines then. I'm almost definitely going for the NA Sun pendant now.

My setup (apart from the light) is on the way. SHould be here in the next few days. Very excited now. Lots of plans for the scape and picking up a few bits here and there.

The latest additions are filter and heater (after a lot of debate).

7520333846_aab3f707d3.jpg

7520334198_4974f199e3.jpg


The Rena XP isn't the best looking filter in the world but it's out of sight so doesn't matter too much. They are however really good filters and I love the one I have on my 60-P. Not had a problem with it and it is a joy to use and maintain.

Small plus is the hoses are clear too. No nasty green Eheim hose to replace. Off to order a couple of magfoxes now!
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

pariahrob said:
Small plus is the hoses are clear too. No nasty green Eheim hose to replace. Off to order a couple of magfoxes now!
Click to expand...

Hey Rob, how much are them little mag foxes? they seem kinda cool.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

pariahrob said:
I just ordered three. Just over £30 including postage from the states. Not a bad price really. They are very good. You can see more about them toward the end of my 60-P journal.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw them on your Journal, Thats £30 total for 3?
Do they do them to fit 13mm hose and do they do a good job on the 'inflow' lily?

Thanks :)
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

It was a touch over £30. I think £33 but I opted for priority delivery (impatient as ever).

They come in the one size but I see no reason they wouldn't work on 13mm hoses. The actual brush part is tiny. I personally haven't used it on the glass lily pipes, as I like to soak in Superge and use a spring brush but it might work well. I might give it a try in a minute and test it out. I don't think the brush is hard enough to scratch the glass.

I'll pop down and try it now and report back.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

pariahrob said:
It was a touch over £30. I think £33 but I opted for priority delivery (impatient as ever).

They come in the one size but I see no reason they wouldn't work on 13mm hoses. The actual brush part is tiny. I personally haven't used it on the glass lily pipes, as I like to soak in Superge and use a spring brush but it might work well. I might give it a try in a minute and test it out. I don't think the brush is hard enough to scratch the glass.

I'll pop down and try it now and report back.
Click to expand...


I don't wish to subject your lily pipes to any form of damage :eek:
so be careful :lol:
 
Rob's 300L (to be named)

I've got a Grobeam on my little tank. Colour is very clinical somehow, so I have it with T5s as well.

I have to say, a light is a light. Just go for this: http://www.iquaticsonline.co.uk/aqualum ... -unit.html and spend your money on more amano shrimp! Two plugs with two lights on each gives you lots of ways to phase the lighting. Or you could for the 6 bulb version if you really wanted.

On a second 'circuit', why not just use an external pump and glassware? Works for me and you get more adjustable, higher flow potential with less room in tank. It also helps and speeds up water changes.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Ok, thanks for prompting that. Great idea and it worked a treat!

Here's half way through. This was the easy straight bit:

7521932790_b1caa3e8a3.jpg

If it was going to struggle anywhere I thought it would be the inside of the curve, with the smallest radius, but it worked perfectly. No problems and the magnet is easily strong enough to keep hold. Straight round, over and over the inlet slots without a problem.

7521932188_47ee3ab7cc.jpg


I also put the bio media from the new XP3 into the XP2 on the other tank, to seed ready for this one. Added a bit of sera nitivec as a boost and removed one of the coarse sponges to try and keep the flow the same.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Ah Mike, they are all out of stock! It's certainly an option but they aren't the prettiest of lamps either. I'm 90% sure I'm going for one of the NA Sun system pendants but watch this space. that could all change.

This second circuit you mention. Have you got an example diagram or photos of that? Is it in one of your journals? Sounds like a good idea.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

mikeappleby said:
I've got a Grobeam on my little tank. Colour is very clinical somehow, so I have it with T5s as well.

I have to say, a light is a light. Just go for this: http://www.iquaticsonline.co.uk/aqualum ... -unit.html and spend your money on more amano shrimp! Two plugs with two lights on each gives you lots of ways to phase the lighting. Or you could for the 6 bulb version if you really wanted.

On a second 'circuit', why not just use an external pump and glassware? Works for me and you get more adjustable, higher flow potential with less room in tank. It also helps and speeds up water changes.
Click to expand...


Mike, what kind of pump do you use ? Can you put up a pic of how its rigged ? How do you overcome the potential issue of clogging with an external pump ?
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Rob does the NA light unit you mentioned allow you to dim it ? I think thats where the ATI unit comes into its own and it gives you the ability to vary the spectrum a lot. I think Tom Barr is always trying different spectral combinations (?). There is one on the for sale board on here at the moment. At a very good price, but dont know if it would be the right size for you. Saw one go on Ebay for peanuts last week too. Give it some serious thought, cos although theres always the nice side of having the whole setup as NA you also need to look at the practicalities and flexibility of your lighting choice. And also decide whether your images are going to be mainly interior tank shots or taken from a more distant focal point. If having a fancy looking light hanging over the tank is important for the images then fair enough, but if not then I think there are probably better options than the NA. Just my thoughts though mate ;) I do agree that the cost of LED's would be very expensive, although the prices quoted above by someone are new, and you can probably pick up that kit for just over half that used.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Aesthetics do come into it, although not so much from the photography side. I have to live with it though, so having an attractive unit is reasonably important.

This is a tough choice. The easy option would be to stick with what I know and have had good results with. That would mean an arcadia OT5 with plant pro tubes in. Funnily that is probably one of the cheaper options at this size too, at less than £250. It is also the least flexible option too, which is why I haven't done it. Look nice enough and colour rendition is good but not very controllable.

Ok, Chris, what would you do if it was your setup?

I have PM'd the seller of the ATI on here but no reply yet. I think it's possibly a bit short for my tank. Love the built in control options.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

If it was mine and I wanted a cross between flexibility and not silly money I would go for an ATI dimmable. Probably 6 tube version. You can vary the spectrum a great deal with that, and you dont have to have it all on at the same time. There are places where you can get a decent deal for new.

Alternatively I would look at 3 TMC 1000ND's with an 8 way controller and get it second hand. You DONT have to get the big controller though, you can get just a couple of the normal 2 way controllers and have the third one come on last and go off first by timer. You can get 2nd hand stuff at a reasonable price though.

Aesthetically I find the TMC stuff very appealing. It looks modern and right for a tank. You only have to look at IANHO's images of his Aquagreen scape to see how nice TMC stuff looks.

The NA light IMO is just a direct copy of the ADA stuff. I have no idea how much it costs but I reckon the ATI would beat it hands down for flexibility.

At the end of the day its your choice though mate. Like you said, you gotta live with it. But for me, I would rather live with nice looking flexibility than "fancy" looking inflexibility.

How much is the NA light unit out of interest ?
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

The NA stuff is similar to ADA but not a cheap copy. What I've seen looks to be very well made. The ATI might well be more flexible but the price would stop me. If it was for a smaller tank maybe...

NA seems to be the way to go. Will be nice to have a 'set' too I think.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

What flexibility are we talking about here Chris? :wideyed:
LEDs?
1. High price for this size tank.
2. You are stuck with same colour rendition for good. Reds look crap and washed out. George has stated that it is not to eveyone taste. I can confirm that.
3. Constant shimmering which could be really anoying and you CANNOT turn it off.
Enough for me I would say.

You cannot get more flexible units than a T5, compact fluorescent units combined with metal halides! Look at what Mark Ewans uses over his 4ft tank. ATI pendant 2x150w plus 2x54w T5. It did talk to him a lot when he was deciding which way to go.
I had similar thing over my 4ft but I had arcadia 4 pendant which was designed for marines and had 2x39w T5s to support halides which WERE TOO SHORT and that was the ONLY reason I have sold it. Coming from here ATI 6x39w WILL NOT BE GOOD everyscape option.

MOST IMPORTANT THING: T5 or compact fluorescent bulbs cost 4-5£. Get yourself a set of 10-12
6500K
5200K
8000K
Plant pro (half price version is grolux bulbs with same effect)
You name it.
Mix them when you get bored of one combination.

Want more flexibility?
What about suspension kit which gives you ability to change intensity by suspending it at different hight?

We have not started to talk about halides yet! They are mostly needed to support fluorescent and give plants and extra 2-3 hour kick. That what grows plants best IMHO. That is what Amano uses.
What shimmer for a while, turn halides on.
Should we mention also why these lights are best choice to photograph your tank also? 450w over your tank should be enough for most day to day snaps. Because the unit is suspended you almost get backlit background, just need to add little bulb in the bottom behind the tank!

Your comments are very welcome.
Mark if you see this your opinion would be of great value ;)
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Ed you misunderstood me. The flexibility I was talking about was as follows:

With the ATI unit (which is a T5 unit), the flexibility if using different spectrum tubes.
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Now look what I've started!

Personally I think all different setups have their strengths and weaknesses, which is why I've found it so hard to decide.

I was also thinking about this from a photographers point of view and I really think the T5 and MH combo is the way to go. I can mix and match as I need to and if I need an extra blast I can stitch on the MH. That will easily let me work at lower ISOs which will be good, specially as these photos are for print. With my studio lights I'll be working with over 1000W.

So, finally, the decision has been made. I can sleep well tonight!

Thanks all!
 
Re: Rob's 300L (to be named)

Antipofish said:
Ed you misunderstood me. The flexibility I was talking about was as follows:

With the ATI unit (which is a T5 unit), the flexibility if using different spectrum tubes.
Click to expand...

I see then. I was thinking you refer to dimming more.
 
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