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Switching to Low-tech

T

thefubar

Member
Joined
29 May 2009
Messages
46
I am trying to move my tank onto a lower tech setup (not that it's high tech now)

I have been dosing EasyCarbo until now and i just don't get the chance to keep up the routine, so i am trying to switch to a no CO2 setup.

Rio 180
1.2 wpg
TetraTec Ex700
Pool filter sand substrate (with strategically placed tabs)

Planted with:
Anubias (bateri and nana)
Amazon Sword
Vallis
Crypts
Moss

Fish:
Sterbai Corys x 6
Cardinals x 6
Black Neons x 2
Cherry Shrimp
1 or 2 otos

Current Routine:
1. topping up water as a result of evapouration.
2. Dosing Profito 3.5ml daily & 12ml TPN+ Weekly

Problems:
1. BBA By the looks of my research (mainly affecting Anubias leaves)
2. Need to re-arrange the scape so it looks more pleasing to the eye.
3. Would like to add some more variety to the current fish stock.

I would like to move over to EI dosing and would appreciate anyone with a similar setup sharing their dosing amounts and schedule. I've read a few articles about it, but i haven't ironed it out in my brain yet :?
What sort of photo-period should i set?

Thanks, Tony
 
I would not do EI dosing on a low tech tank.
See the 'non co2 methods' article on the barreport for a known working method for low tech dosing.

Spot dosing wth liquid carbon or manual removal are the best methods to remove bba.

photoperiod - not crucial. up to you. maybe start at 8 hours.

I have a 180 litre (160 water after hardscape displacement) and at the moment only dose periodically when I see the plants need it. A bit of calcium and mg once a month or so and that is about it. the rest comes from the fish food - that balance only works for me though when the tank is heavily stocked with fish and heavily stocked with plants.
 
I think you might struggle without some form of CO2. The el natural low tech method uses decomposing organic matter in the substrate and I think Barr's low tech method recommends Leonardite which provides a source of C for plants.
 
Not all low tech setups are el naturel ;)
All the plants listed adapt really well to low levels of carbon, so I think things will be fine without adding any extra.
Obviously they would definitely benefit from extra carbon, so if you are replacing substrate it makes sense to look at el naturel.
My interpretation of Barrs methodology is that you can do it with or without the Leonardite.
 
Great article.

Good caveats on the no WC approach.
I have found that by using RO water not tap water that algae is not induced with water changes (might just be my good luck, I wonder...) however large they may be.

If I had to be critical of the article I would say it is not necessary to have a filter with at least 10-15x flow in a low tech aquarium. It is a good thing to do, just not essential.

Otherwise it covers everything I can think of for setting up a low tech planted tank :thumbup: :clap:
 
It does say the CO2 in tap water is responsible for the algae trigger... So I would imagine that if you let it stand before using it the CO2 will gas off until it reaches equilibrium with the atmosphere?
 
After typing my post I thought about it and came to the same conclusion :thumbup:
Good thing abut RO is you can let it stand for weeks in a dark cupboard and it does not 'go off'.
I tried letting tap water stand and did not have the patience for it!
 
I've just dived back on here before heading off to bed. (Politics has kept me busy tonight)

I'll read the article on the way to work tomorrow (thanks for posting some specific help) and i'll keep the extra points you have made in mind.

I will also try and get a picture of the setup on here (i know how much easier it is when you can see something in situ)

RO is not something i really want to consider, part of the swing to low-tech is a reduction in my running costs for the tank. This way i can afford to keep it and enjoy it, rather than weighing up the idea of selling it all and returning at a later date.

If i can find an alternative way of reducing the CO2 effects of a water top-up (i'll work out an estimated litrage/% tomorrow) then that would be preferable.

It seems my plan to increase the fish stock will actually aid my plan for a "lower-tech" setup then.
 
I have a spare tank in a cupboard that I fill with tap water, leave for a day with a heater in it, then use it for the top up... Putting an air stone in it would make it more efficient by breaking the surface during this standing time...

I tend not to do water changes... Only once did a spell of changes when I decimated the scape, tore up a load of plants, and stirred up my substrate...
 
Hi all, interesting link
Good caveats on the no WC approach. I have found that by using RO water not tap water that algae is not induced with water changes (might just be my good luck, I wonder...) however large they may be.
Click to expand...
I've found the same as Matt using rainwater. I change 10% a day in all my tanks (they are all relatively lightly stocked, no CO2 and mainly the fish are fed live food), when I'm at home but they do sometimes go several weeks with out a water change when I'm away, when I will change ~ 50% when I return.

I think the CO2 in tap water should out gas pretty quickly until it equilibrates with the atmospheric level, particularly if it was stored in a container with a large surface area and some agitation. The daily pH changes in my tanks (they have 2-3 dkH) would suggest that the CO2 levels are fluctuating significantly during each 24 hour period with pH often well above pH7 during active photosynthesis, and ~pH6 just before lights on (this is assuming that these changes are caused by changes in the carbonic acid - carbonate equilibrium).

I don't think the small regular water change regime can do any harm, it may offer advantages in replenishing trace elements, and it also tends to trickle feed Daphnia etc. from the water butt (this wouldn't occur with R.O. obviously).

I've never experimented with "no water change", although I certainly will try in the future, as both Tom's and Diana Walstads' "low tech. no WC" tanks look very good.

cheers Darrel
 
My tanks haven't had a water change for 6 months now. They do get top ups daily though. Normally about 1ltr in the 125ltr tank. I just fill a jug from the tap and pour it in. The only algae I have are a few tufts of BBA on the upper sections of the wood but very very small amounts.

AC
 
Thanks everyone for letting me know their experience/suggestions.

I am hoping to re-scape tonight and then I'll share a photo of how it looks.

I am going to split quite a few of my anubias so they cover a larger area. Reposition all of the wood and move the vallis to the back of the tank. I am going to have to put in an order for some dry ferts and today will be my last major water change for ... Well a long time I hope.

Until later then. ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hope you enjoy the rescape and going low tech :)

thefubar said:
Until later then. ...
Click to expand...
I've subscribed to this journal so I do not miss your post in a years time after your next WC :lol: :lol:
 
Hmm, yeah i can see why there aren't many low-tech journals now!

I have placed my order for
Seachem Equillibrium (from ebay)
and KNO3, KH2PO4 from FluidSensorOnline

Because my tank will rely on constant and regular fish feeding, i think i am going to buy an auto-feeder. 15 minutes research suggests that http://www.warehouse-aquatics.co.uk/eheim-feed-air-automatic-feeder-p-3844.html is highly recommended.

I am also thinking of adding a Koralia 1 to my tank to help the circulation around the anubias, but i am going to wait to see how i get on first.
 
Good idea to see how you get on.

I have found that a lot less flow is needed when low tech, so you may be absolutely fine with the 700. I have a 1200 but often have it set to half flow.

(My journal is low tech, but I just make noise about the fish and my mishaps with the tank as well as the plants which seems to fill it up nicely!)
 
I'll keep an eye out for one at a good price.

Right here is a photo of the current scape. I am hoping the Anubias Barteri at the back will grow tall again and create the background with the Amazon Swords and Vallis (small at the mo) on the right.

Front left-to-right is Java Fern, Anubias nana and Barteri, micro swords and crypt.

There is some crypt. balansae back left, but its growing in spirals and not straight to the surface. Any ideas why?


IMG_5289.jpg
 
Looks nice, I can picture it growing in nicely.

No idea about the spiralling Balansae though.
 
Hi all,
Does look good, and looks a very suitable plant list, my only thought would be that you will need a lot more plant mass, and most of your permanent planting may not bulk up quickly enough to offer this.

My suggestion would be either some floaters like Limnobium, Pistia, Salvinia etc and/or some "stem" plants as well. I end to use either Ceratophyllum or Ceratopteris as I have them to hand and they don't root (or are very lightly rooted) and are easy to remove without uprooting the substrate (pm me if you don't have or can't them).

Have a look at these http://www.dwarfcichlid.com/Aquarium_plants.php, and http://www.dwarfcichlid.com/Good_habitat.php these are low tech. set ups specifically for keeping and breeding Apistogramma species, and are neither designed as aquascapes or to be aestheticaly pleasing, but is the technique I use for my Apistogramma tanks and it definitely works (well it does for both of us).

I've also kept Clown Killies and Pencil fish in similar set up's.

Caves_Plants.jpg


cheers Darrel
 
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