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Taking a sump. Back in five minutes...

Hack it like Edward Scissor Hands. As compact growth as possible @Jayefc1

Nitrate isn’t being dosed into the water column, there’s very low amounts of iron and it’s under high light so should be pretty red. Potassium is being dosed daily but will see how hungry it gets.

A lot of people say it burns out in the water around here and I’m more than happy to go several rounds to see what may cause this. Tap is very hard and high in nitrate. Can see what happens using tap first and if this burns it out will use RO to get better control of water parameters to see what’s what.

Just having a play basically Jay.
 
Nice project!.. :thumbup:

Maybe an idea for the next. If you ever want to glue PVC tubing again. Try Polymer sealant Tec7 for the tubing and sand the tube ends and fittings. It's not a solvent but it glues PVC tubes and fitting like a champ it's pretty strong stuff. Good thing is, it can be taken apart again with a firm twist and reused after the old cured sealant is pealed off.

I have several sump filter setups running for years all tubing sealed with Tec7.

Since sump and pump tubing doesn't really need to hold pressure there is no need to solvent weld it. :)
 
It’s a bit of a beast as a tank mounted unit instead of a pendant unit @CooKieS

It is dimmable but having it raised higher would be a benefit.

It’s most definitely a high light tank across its footprint now, especially at the overlap. Turning both units to 100% turns the water to lemonade with all the pearling if that’s what you mean by effective. You won’t be short of photon bombardment even at modest settings.
 
Dave and @Siege think as much as well, that’s part of why it’s worth doing @Tim Harrison

So little faith you lot :lol: I’m not a complete idiot... Some parts are missing.

To be honest I don’t see this as any different from very high light setups using T5’s. The retainment of Co2 in this system is excellent and the wet dry filter in theory is giving a continual oxygen advantage regardless of other factors, so there is a safety net. A dissolved oxygen meter was on the shopping list to test this along with pH data as a proxy for Co2, but had to go the States so it got put on the back burner.

Will try and get my hands on a good PAR meter at some point to see what we’re dealing with, maybe from apogee. It’ll get further use so probably worth it.

Will be continuously trying out various high light/Co2 plants so what is planted currently is subject to change. Any suggestions are welcome too.

It’s the polar opposite to my other tank where you could slip in and out of a coma and nothing changes, takes months to get anywhere. Quite refreshing to go full tilt the other way.
 
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90% of the Blyxa torn out and some Eriocaulon too.

New plants in:

- Bocopa ‘Colorata’
- Cuphea anagalloidea
- Hottania palustris
- Ludwigia ‘Mini Super Red’
- Myriophyllum ‘Guyana’
- Rotala ‘Colorata’
- Rotala rotundifolia ‘Orange Juice’
- Rotala wallichii

Still on the hunt for some Cabomba furcata but no luck yet.
 
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Hows the sump working out? More pictures of that too please.

Tank looks amazing. Amd loving the test of different plants
 
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out with that much light and if you get any diatoms/gsa on the rocks or if you manage to keep it at bay and not clean the rocks much

All looks very healthy and a great wee experiment
 
I use GSA as feedback on phosphate levels. It’s sometimes advantageous to dose it, but GSA will appear on the rocks if it is lacking. This is then munched on by the nerites and gives them a meal so not really a problem.

Diatoms are found deeper inside the overflow unit where there’s very low light and nothing to use it. Again the nerites slide right on in there and have a munch. Really handy as cleaning the unit manually would be extremely difficult.

Suffice to say I love my nerites, high light or otherwise.
 
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