There are three basic types of adhesive for acrylic. The first and most common is the thin watery solvent type that you can buy from EMA in tins or smaller bottles from model shops. It's usually based on trichloromethane, dichloromethane or chloroform. It can be applied to joints by paintbrush and the capilliary action draws it into the joint where it dries by evaporation. It's good for general fabricating where there are close fitting joints and for laminating relatively small areas, a 44" passenger pod being the sort of thing it's good for. It will also stick ABS and Styrene so you can use it to stick on all the accessory panelling neatly. It's not good for laminating large sheets because it needs to evaporate to work and this is obviously inhibited with large sheets. It's also a bit tenacious for thin styrene so use it sparingly with a small brush or otherwise you can find dimples in your panels weeks later as the recently dissolved plastic dries out thoroughly and shrinks slightly.
The second type is called Tensol cement and comes in two forms, air drying and catalytic. Both look and smell the same, basically a thin syrupy clear liquid. As the type suggests, one is air drying and the other sets by chemical reaction when it's mixed with it's respective catalyst. The air drying one is good for general fabrication but doesn't set quite as rigid. I mix it with EMA solvent adhesive to really thin it and use it on the wooden cores of the leg pods. It thins it sufficiently well to soak into the wood but not so thin that it doesn't grab the perpex sheeting that the blocks are being clad in.
The stronger of the two is the latter catalytic type. This needs mixing before using and once mixed will only stay workable for a couple of hours. It's essentially liquid acrylic and sets as hard as the sheet. It's not as neat as the thin EMA type but for reinforcing joints and adding blocks into previously constructed pieces on the inside where the visuals don't matter, it's the best and strongest. It's also the choice for professional display case makers because once set it can be sanded and polished to match the sheet and when done properly, can be almost invisible. There is a solvent in it which helps the pieces "grab" each other but full stregth comes after the adhesive has set chemically. Both types of Tensol cement are usually available from the same stockists who stock acrylic sheet.
The third is superglue which I'm sure most people are familiar with. It sticks acrylic very well but a word of caution about the accelerators you can buy for superglue. If sprayed on acrylic, they can craze the surface. I'm not sure why they do this but it's very noticeable on clear acrylic. If you catch the light right, it looks like there's a fine cobweb of lines inside the acrylic. It can also embrittle styrene sheet to the point that the sheet breaks up without tounching it. Try wrapping a thin piece of twenty thou around something like a marker pen body, spray it with supeglue accelerator and watch it suddenly break up. The superglue itself doesn't seem to be a problem but use of the accelerator should be limited particularly if working near the windows of the CM.