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Targeting Potassium

hypnogogia

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I’m targeting nitrate, phosphate, potassium and magnesium at 20, 3, 20, 10 respectively, and I’m using potassium nitrate, Monopotassium phosphate, and magnesium sulphate. I noticed today that I’m hitting most of my target at 100% (according to the IFC calculator) but only reaching 69.2% for potassium. What other source of potassium should I consider to get to 100%?
 
I’m targeting nitrate, phosphate, potassium and magnesium at 20, 3, 20, 10 respectively
Please, let me/us know on your results. I suppose you're going to see Fe and/or Mg deficiency symptoms.
 
Please, let me/us know on your results. I suppose you're going to see Fe and/or Mg deficiency symptoms.
I became suspicious when I saw pinholes in the older leaves of H. pinnatifada , and I remember reading on another thread here that those symptoms are related to potassium deficiency. Apparently H. pinnatifada is a real potassium hoover.
 
Interestingly, pinholes are often interpreted as a sign of potassium deficiency. By aquarists. And no one else. In agricultural literature, pinholes are sometimes mentioned as a sign of magnesium or manganese deficiency.
I remain neutral in this question. I haven't seen it for many years in my tanks (incl. H. pinnatifida). But given time, I'll perform targeted experiments to elucidate this issue.
 
I became suspicious when I saw pinholes in the older leaves of H. pinnatifada , and I remember reading on another thread here that those symptoms are related to potassium deficiency. Apparently H. pinnatifada is a real potassium hoover.
I believe some people have tried 50+ ppm K to solve this pinhole issues and still couldn't fix it. in my experience, it was found that it was strongly related to Micros. it magically disappeared when I was using Tropica Clone and I was only adding like 1-2 ppm K weekly from it, which also added 0.4 -0.8 ppm Mg weekly. these are some of the area to look into and also whatever @_Maq_ have said.

I’m targeting nitrate, phosphate, potassium and magnesium at 20, 3, 20, 10 respectively, and I’m using potassium nitrate, Monopotassium phosphate, and magnesium sulphate.
we wait and see how this goes.
 
I believe some people have tried 50+ ppm K to solve this pinhole issues and still couldn't fix it. in my experience, it was found that it was strongly related to Micros. it magically disappeared when I was using Tropica Clone and I was only adding like 1-2 ppm K weekly from it, which also added 0.4 -0.8 ppm Mg weekly. these are some of the area to look into and also whatever @_Maq_ have said.

If K is a reactive element, is there any downside in having more K+ in the water column? especially where the uptake of other metal cations is concerned. Just asking... I have no formal chemistry qualification.

I've always wondered how come Tropica has so little K and why it 'works' in some case better than EI levels of K dosing.
 
how come Tropica has so little K and why it 'works' in some case better than EI levels of K dosing.
EI is high on potassium mainly because Tom Barr maintains that ammonium is the reason of algae - which is patently wrong - and thus sticks to KNO3 for nitrogen fertilizing. Thanks to that, his K : N ratio is always >=1 : 1 [molar]. Which is at least four times more potassium than the plants can utilize.
 
Nutrients are absorbed through the soil into roots and plants via what are called transporters. There are fundamentally different absorption mechanisms for potassium and magnesium. Magnesium ions only enter plants via a single route - via what are termed non-specific transporters. Non-specific means that the route can also be used by other nutrients, such as potassium. Potassium, on the other hand, uses various routes. In addition to the non-specific transporters, it also reaches the roots via specific transporters, which only absorb potassium into the plant. This is the reason why a very large supply of potassium can interfere with the magnesium uptake, but a high degree of magnesium availability in the soil has no influence on the potassium uptake of the plant.
1677403707401.png

Found this interesting article. And it mentions duckweed. :)

I was googling for Potassium - Magnesium antagonism (K+ can use K+ ion transport channels and non-specific channels, whereas Mg2+ can also use non-specific channels, which suggests that K+ competes with Mg2+ for use of the non-specific ion transport channels but not the other way round).
 
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If K is a reactive element, is there any downside in having more K+ in the water column? especially where the uptake of other metal cations is concerned. Just asking... I have no formal chemistry qualification.

I've always wondered how come Tropica has so little K and why it 'works' in some case better than EI levels of K dosing.

K isn't needed to the level most people dose in their tanks, Tropica seems to understand this concept. you are likely to have better results while using combination of CaNo3, MgNo3, KNo3 compared to KNO3 alone, which will also help you maintain the lower K, especially if you don't want to take the Ammonium Route. I also agree with @_Maq_ regarding Ammonium, NH4/Urea doesn't cause algae if you know what you are doing.

based on some of my experiment, even this simple plant such as Staurogyne Repens struggled to grow properly. they started to grow very well under the following Parameters:

Water parameters:
Ca 10
Mg 6

weekly Dose:
N 1.3 (NH4NO3)
P 0.1
K 1
Fe 0.07
Mn 0.048
B 0.004
Zn 0.002
Cu 0.006
Mo 0.004


Staurogyne Repens.jpg

I would pull this plant out every few weeks, because it was growing so fast. the picture was taken right after I took it out of the water.
 
I also agree with @_Maq_ regarding Ammonium, NH4/Urea doesn't cause algae if you know what you are doing.
I can't comment on this because I have yet to experiment in a clean tank, but I will add that in my experience, urea dosing seems to drastically amplify algae if it's already present. I used it in my tank when it had a mild amount of BBA, and the BBA grew significantly more than without the urea dosing. So I'd imagine Urea/NH4 may only really be 'safe' if used in an algae-free tank? I plan to re-try it when my algae is all gone.

Of course, I assume this is the point you make about "if you know what you are doing" :lol:
 
Due to a serious case of FOMO I am going to jump on the low K to Mg bandwagon and change up my ratios in my Lean Tank to 1-2:5:10 (K:Mg:Ca respectively).

My current numbers:

Ca 10 ppm
Mg 4 ppm
K 6 ppm (I am currently dosing more K than Mg due to the use of K2CO3)

After consulting with @Happi, the numbers I will eventually end up with in a month or so (yes, I do all changes very slowly):

Ca 10 ppm
Mg 5 ppm
K 1-2 ppm

Note: This is a very mature low-tech tank. 100% remineralized RODI water. Inert (mature) substrate. Photoperiod 12 hours/day - moderately high light. Very healthy plants (no algae to speak of algae) with plants currently mostly in the easy category. pH in the 6.3-6.4 range. Exclusively dosed with Tropica Specialized.

I will keep the dosing in my other tank as is for now.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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I used it in my tank when it had a mild amount of BBA, and the BBA grew significantly more than without the urea dosing.
I've got limited experience with urea. But I routinely dose nitrogen with NH4NO3, I can say, for many years, in many tanks (currently eight). It makes no difference compared to tanks with nitrates only (and without fish - which means no feeding, no ammonia from fish).
As for BBA, a bothersome beast, it occurs sometimes a bit. Right now it seems to be in love with my bucephalandras. I have no clue as to what is the cause of these algae. :(
 
The more I read about fertilisation, the more complex it seems to become, rather than simpler.
It can be complicated if you want it to be and spend loads of time thinking most of your issues are fert related. Fortunately many times over our issues in our tank are not fertilizer related, at least not directly.
I’m targeting nitrate, phosphate, potassium and magnesium at 20, 3, 20, 10 respectively
Please, let me/us know on your results. I suppose you're going to see Fe and/or Mg deficiency symptoms.
Could you please elaborate on that rational? Those targets are standard EI targets. In my experience I see no such deficiencies with those targets which I have been using for years.
Tom Barr maintains that ammonium is the reason of algae - which is patently wrong - and thus sticks to KNO3 for nitrogen fertilizing.
I also agree with @_Maq_ regarding Ammonium, NH4/Urea doesn't cause algae if you know what you are doing.
And I have to disagree with @_Maq_ statement. Not in my experience. Urea>ammonia does trigger algae, and good. The severity of the proliferation will depends on the amount used. My journal is testament to that. Adding urea triggered extensive GSA and hair algae and it's not like I pumped loads of urea. It was 1/4th of my nitrogen target. Yes I could have added even less but saying that it does not cause algae is just misleading and wrong. Decreasing it lowered algae. Removing it made GSA disappear entirely within 1 week. Perhaps if I had waited longer, algae would have disappeared entirely while still using urea but I was in no mood to continue the "experiment" as this meant loss of revenu for me.
 
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Hi all,
Adding urea triggered extensive GSA and hair algae and it's not like I pumped loads of urea. It was 1/4th of my nitrogen target.
I've had a small amount of green hair algae since I started using the <"Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4"> mix.

I don't personally see <"it as a problem"> and I'm pretty sure if I had Amano or Cherry shrimps they would see it off.
It doesn't help with getting rid of it, but I'd actually look at the algae as a sign that conditions are pretty suitable for plant growth. The reason I says this is that the "green algae" <"share the same basic physiology"> with all the higher plants. In fact you could just split them into "plants you want" and "plants you don't" but they are all "plants", if that makes sense?
Could you please elaborate on that rational? Those targets are standard EI targets. In my experience I see no such deficiencies with those targets which I have been using for years.
That was one reason for suggesting a commercial <"horticultural fertiliser">, if they didn't work the companies selling them would have gone out of business long ago.

As the present <"turnip / tomato crisis"> demonstrates growing salad crops etc is a business without much margin and people are going to use a nutrient regime that is at the optimal <"cost / benefit point">.

cheers Darrel
 
Urea>ammonia does trigger algae, and good. The severity of the proliferation will depends on the amount used.
Right now I'm running an experiment targeted at different responses of various plant species to differing nitrogen fertilizers. A - urea, B - ammonium, C - half ammonium, half nitrates, D - nitrates. All in the same amount [molar] and identical amount of other nutrients.
I can take some pics, if you insist, and let you guess which one is "algae infested" due urea or ammonium. You'll fail to pass, because all are pretty identical. Just a bit GDA.
I've tested this ammonium theory many times. Actually, I do test it permanently because, as a rule, I dose nitrogen by NH4NO3. Not that I never get troubles with algae, as well as any other possible mishaps, yet I've never, never, NEVER detected any sign of algae trouble in connection with ammonium dosing.
Now, why are our experiences that different? I don't know. I can say that unlike you, I never inject CO2, my lighting is on the moderate side, and my dosing is several times smaller than "average" EI. Yet to the latter I have to add that I've tested "true" EI as well, with half nitrates replaced with ammonium, and faced no trouble with algae, instead, signs of Mg & Ca deficiency due to way too high potassium.
That latter experiment is well documented and published here: e-akvarium pp. 25-33.
---
One more argument: Wherever you keep fish, ammonium is there. Inevitably. So, if your/Barr's theory holds, it is impossible to see a fish tank without algae problems.
 
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I dose nitrogen by NH4NO3. Not that I never get troubles with algae, as well as any other possible mishaps, yet I've never, never, NEVER detected any sign of algae trouble in connection with ammonium dosing.
I've been dosing Tropica Specialized for +10 months in one of my tanks without issues (the N in Specialized is from NH4NO3). I am dosing small amounts targeting ~1 ppm N. Unlike NO3, I do think with Urea/NH4 there is a limit where you likely can trigger algae blooms - just as @Hanuman and others have reported over the years - the amount, and perhaps interaction with other conditions / parameters plays a role - I do not know.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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I can take some pics, if you insist,
You can start by looking at my journal for pictures that show exactly the opposite. I don't know what kind of experiment you are doing and under what conditions, but adding urea can trigger algae blooms if dosed even in slight excess of what the tank can handle at any given time no matter whether that's high tech or low tech. I and Tom Barr are far from being the only ones who have experienced this. Many people have experienced the same and it has been reported in multiple forums. This is also the reason why adding loads of osmocote in a tank is usually a bad idea. Many examples out there about algae explosions after adding osmocote. Only in this thread you just had three example including @xZaiox and @dw1305 and myself. Even @Happi has document and claimed the same in PT forum if I remember correctly. His comment above:
regarding Ammonium, NH4/Urea doesn't cause algae if you know what you are doing.
I interpret the conditional "if" as clearly potentially being the source of algae.

@_Maq_ It is not because in your experiments you are not seeing what I am describing that it disproves that urea/ammonia can trigger algae. You would need to carry out your experiment in multiple conditions to definitely claim that urea has no effect on algae. Also, it is documented that urea used in agriculture that leaches in water bodies can trigger algae blooms. Ammonia and nitrogenous waste are common triggers for algae. Nothing new there. This is why when using urea in a tank it's always recommended to start with very low doses then increase progressively so that plants and bacteria can adapt accordingly. There is always a fine line when using urea/ammonia.
One more argument: Wherever you keep fish, ammonium is there. Inevitably. So, if your/Barr's theory holds, it is impossible to see a fish tank without algae problems.
Fish don't all pee and exude excrements at the same time. I am pretty sure if we were to suddenly overstock a tank which had no fish in it, you would see some algae bloom, at least temporarily until bacteria catches up.
I've been dosing Tropica Specialized for +10 months in one of my tanks without issues (the N in Specialized is from NH4NO3). I am dosing small amounts targeting ~1 ppm N. Unlike NO3, I do think with Urea/NH4 there is a limit where you likely can trigger algae blooms - just as @Hanuman and others have reported over the years - the amount, and perhaps interaction with other conditions / parameters plays a role - I do not know.
Exactly my point and the reason why NO3 is mainly being used instead of higher doses of urea in many fertilizers. Urea is a good fertiliser, that's a fact, but it needs to be handled with care.

Edit: Just to be crystal clear here. I am not saying that urea is no good for tanks or that it can't grow plants perhaps even better than just NO3. I am sure it does. I am simply saying that urea can trigger algae and needs to be dosed with caution and in slow increments over a period of time before you can have a system that will handle it without algae blooms.
 
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