I'm considering adding some urea to my ferts schedule, but my idea was to keep it separated from the main mix so that I can front load as usual and then add urea 3 times a week. Any reason not to go this way? Maybe I could even mix urea and micros, since I don't front load them...
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Thailandia Sunset
- Thread starter Hanuman
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John q
Member
Urea is only available for a short period, the chemists will explain why,. I dose small amounts mixed in with my micros.. it seems to work.
Give this thread a read if one is considering crossing to the dark side.
Dosing with Ammonia and Urea
Decided to open a new thread on this very interesting subject rather than carry it on in the Good Algae Article thread - http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=905 Here's what been said so far: As George alluded to, some vendors use ammonia salts as their source of N, which I find completely...
www.ukaps.org
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With urea that's the best move. Dose little more often. That is why I moved from front loading to 3x a week but I think it's best to spread it even more. Interestingly it never occurred to me I could mix the urea with the micro hence why I added it to the macros. It made more sense at the time.
This 3x dosing thing I am not liking so far so I might just add some urea to my micro, redo my macro bottle and go back to front loading like I was a few weeks back.
This is true. Also, the purity indeed does matter to some people and people should keep an eye on the Grade when purchasing any Chemical.Regarding the CaSO4 I think the difference is probably just down to purity with one being possibly industrial grade and the other food grade. The calculated differences in TDS suggest this.
Regarding the CaSO4 I think the difference is probably just down to purity with one being possibly industrial grade and the other food grade. The calculated differences in TDS suggest this.
This is definitely the case but I live in country where not everything is always clear to the consumer. In the USA and Europe there are probably legislations in place that makes things easier and safer for the consumer. I used to buy the CaSO4*2H2O in a chemistry supply shop because it's the only one that would properly label the hydrate, problem is there was no grade mentioned (it's probably laboratory or technical grade). Everywhere else it was just CaSO4 and the origin was suspicious with no grade mention. Here they like to repackage stuff with home made labels, so you understand my suspicions. Anyway, I was recently able to find a shop that sold food grade CaSO4 and in principle that's CaSO4*2H2O. I can notice a clear physical difference between the two products. The food grade stuff is really a very fine powder that doesn't clump which is not the case with the other product. When I add the new product in my skimmer everything will dissolved and will be expelled within a few minutes. With the former product I always had some clumps remain for a day or two. I am also noticing more exoskeletons in the tank which mean shrimps are molting properly.
Also, regarding grades, one cannot always find high quality grades here unless you pay a fortune for some specific compounds.
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MichaelJ
Member
Yes. Food grade do not necessarily imply purity. As far as the FDA goes here in the US, It only means it's safe for human consumption which includes whatever impurities might be in the compound - impurities that potentially could be hazardous to our livestock. If you want to be more sure - and break the bank - you need ACS grade compounds.
Cheers,
Michael
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I bought the CaSO4 in a chem supply shop for education, so meant for schools and experimentation. I assume that was technical or lab grade, perhaps even lowers, who knows. If you read the link above posted by @Happi, Laboratory grade is actually not even pure enough for food consumption. So not sure what is what but I do see an improvement in shrimps so it must be better than what I had before.
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MichaelJ
Member
right on... I meant ACS grade.... but even that with its > 95% purity might still cause issues for sensitive critters.... we just cant know.
MichaelJ
Member
Dang! That's some pricy CaSO4.
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No it's all good. However I can't acess that website. I get this:
Can you please post a screenshot? I guess the website doesn't like me being in Thailand.
According to google: If you're getting an Error 1020 Access Denied message, that means the website's firewall believes your IP address is a threat. You can try accessing the website from a different browser, adjusting your browser's settings, restarting your router, or toggling your VPN to fix a 1020 error.
That was pretty much my point about high grade compounds. No way I would ever buy that. And this is just Ca. Some can way more expensive.
That won't change. Thailand is known to be a source country for spamming. These types of access denied things is not uncommon here.
I got an extra cheap nearly full ADA BACTER 100 bottle from a fellow aquascaper. I read the leaflet inside which says the following:
Anyhow, needless to say things are not going well. For the first 3 or 4 days I didn't see any effect (why would I anyway) but then I started noticing this haze in the water. Strange. I did 60% WC last Saturday and the water was crystal clear again. That only last 1 or two days. Now the water is completely opaque. I have a gigantic bacterial bloom. See for yourself:
We can't even see from side to side.
I know bacterial blooms usually get sorted out usually by themselves but this is such an eye soar. I am tempted to use some flocculating agent (like Seachem Clarity) but my major concern is that I have a very low KH and adding this product could drop my PH to the point where fish and shrimp could suffer.
What's everyone opinion?
Because I like to experiment and mostly because it says that overdose does have a harmful effect, I decided to add some in my tank. I under-dosed it though because these companies tend to be heavy handed when it comes to their products....
Anyhow, needless to say things are not going well. For the first 3 or 4 days I didn't see any effect (why would I anyway) but then I started noticing this haze in the water. Strange. I did 60% WC last Saturday and the water was crystal clear again. That only last 1 or two days. Now the water is completely opaque. I have a gigantic bacterial bloom. See for yourself:
We can't even see from side to side.
I know bacterial blooms usually get sorted out usually by themselves but this is such an eye soar. I am tempted to use some flocculating agent (like Seachem Clarity) but my major concern is that I have a very low KH and adding this product could drop my PH to the point where fish and shrimp could suffer.
What's everyone opinion?
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hypnogogia
Member
I’d leave it as it will sort itself out. As you say, adding Clarity will result in pH drop and, in my experience at least, not clarify the water.
MichaelJ
Member
I wouldn't add any chemicals... The only thing I believe will help is WC's and time. You can accelerate the process with an UV filter until it clears up, if it is indeed a bacterial bloom and not due to some chemical reaction in the water column.
Cheers,
Michael
John q
Member
Fantastic advert for bacter 100 💯 lol.
Can't imagine why you'd add it to a "mature tank" what were you thinking,... maybe plant health would improve?
Master po, the water is cloudy,...
"Caine.... maybe change the water"
Can't imagine why you'd add it to a "mature tank" what were you thinking,... maybe plant health would improve?
Master po, the water is cloudy,...
"Caine.... maybe change the water"
plantnoobdude
Member
I don't know why, but water changes always seemed to aggravate bacterial blooms. Just my 2c stick to WC regular regime and use UV That'll clear it.
MichaelJ
Member
Yes Noob, I have noticed that as well, occasionally that a WC sparks somewhat slightly cloudy waters... never for more than a day or two... I do not know if it's bacterial bloom. I pretty much run my UV all the time.
Cheers,
Michael
