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And now the planting. In strict keeping with UKAPS best practice, I planned for this to take about two hours, and it took four. And I ended up with a ton of leftover stems. I still have two plastic storage boxes full of them and shrimp; they all grew far too much over the last 3 months. Hmph.
Anyhow, here's the end result.
7984 - 08-May- Frogbit.jpg
7974 - 08-May- Back of Cube.jpg


8047 - 08-May- Limnophila sessiliflora (Asian Marshweed).jpg
7900 - 05-May- Schismatoglottis prietoi.jpg


8024 - 08-May- Bucephalandra Red.jpg
8020 - 08-May- Schismatoglottis Preitoi.jpg


8028 - 08-may- Cryptocoryne Petchii, Schismatogolottis Preitoi, Pogostomon Helferi.jpg
8007 - 08-May- Side FTS.jpg


8052 - 08-May FTS-front.jpg


Plant list:
Alternanthera Reineckii 'Mini'
Anubias Barteri var. Nana
Anubias Petite
Bucephalandra Kedagang
Bucephalandra Red
Bucephalandra Wavy Green
Cryptocoryne albida brown
Cryptocoryne Petchii
Heteranthera zosterifolia (Star Grass)
Hydrocotyle leucocephala (Brazilian Pennywort)
Limnobium Laevigatum (Amazon Frogbit)
Limnophila Sessiflora (Asian Marshweed)
Microsorum Pteropus Windelov (Lace Java Fern)
Pistia stratiotes ("Dwarf Water Lettuce")
Pogostemon Erectus
Pogostemon Helferi
Potamogeton Gayi (slender pondweed)
Schismatoglottis prietoi
Taxiphyllum Sp. 'Spiky Moss'
Thread Algae


Cheers,
Simon
 
Last edited:
An environmental update. I have bigger flora and fauna updates to come, but for now I'll stick to the environment.
As mentioned earlier, this room has 3 external walls, so it can get pretty hot. It also has a lantern roof so it gets pretty bright. To deal with the heat, I have invested in an aquarium fan and hooked it up to an Inkbird controller.
09-jun Chiller.jpg
09-Jun Inkbird controller.jpg


The room has peaked at about 33 so far, but the fan has kept the tank to below 27.5. I also plugged in a heater when the good weather broke (Eheim 75W thermo control), and between the two of them they are keeping the tank between 22 and 25.5 pretty comfortably almost all the time (target range 23-23.5).

So that's the heat dealt with. Now for the light. There are some really good posts that explain the balance we want to achieve in our tanks between O2, CO2, Ferts, and light. I think Darrel has periodically floated a fab picture that shows this. We dose EI to remove ferts from the balancing act, and trust surface perturbation to get Oxygen in the water. So that leaves CO2 and light as the balance we need to strike. Which is why when you run a low tech tank you need to have less intense lighting. But my low tech tank is in a stupidly bright room, and gets 14+ hours of light during the summer including a good 2 hours of direct afternoon sunlight on the rare UK days where there is sun. Hmm*.
So as always I've turned to the interweb, and UKAPs.
The collective UKAPS knowledge base told me I should therefore add CO2 to redress the balance, and go high-tech. This is great in theory, but this tank was going to have a Betta in it. That's a commitment made to my daughter after I foolishly took her to every LFS within an hour of home whilst pulling together my first tank, and inadvertently helped her develop a Betta obsession. I'm far more scared of my daughter than I am of UKAPS, so the Betta stayed in scope, and high-tech was ruled out.
Whilst I pondered, the plants grew, and so did the algae. The glass walls turned out to be the perfect incubator for GSA, and the water inside turned out to be the perfect incubator for thread algae. Every weekly WC, I was diligently scrubbing away with the credit card, and spooling out meters upon metres of threads with the toothbrush. Whoa. I am way too lazy for that to be sustainable. Time for some serious research. First off I bought some Red Onion Nerites. Then I read somewhere that Horned Nerites were even better, so I bought some of those too. They definitely made an impact on the glass. My GSA now had pretty snail tooth tracks in it. Despite some misgivings, I started dosing Excel (Glutaraldehyde) as an alternative source of carbon since I couldn't go high tech.
Good, but not enough. I bit the bullet and got 8 Otos. Specifically Otocinclus macrospilus, although it took me a while to ID them (LFS were clueless). There's a ton of misinformation about Otos in the interweb, along with plenty of learned experience on UKAPS that they are fragile, and arrive half starved. From what I have read, whilst tank glass and bits of courgette are great, you really need to sort out plenty of aufwuchs for them. Aufwuchs is the German name for the slimy coating which grows on the leaves of aquatic plants, decomposing leaves, etc. Aufwuchs is composed mainly of diatom algae but also includes animals such as rotifers, mini crustaceans and protozoa. And that mix is apparently essential for happy Otos. So I decided to add botanicals to my tank for them. Cue my daughter:
"What's that brown thing down by the stones?"
"Oh that's botanicals."
"No it's not. It's half a leaf."
"That's what I said. Botanicals."
"Father, why is there half a dried oak leaf in your tank which you have given a stupid name to?"
I've tried to instil a sense of aesthetics in her over the years , but clearly I've failed.
Anyhow, I now have 8 happy Otos, who have blitzed the glass, diligently eat plant leaves, love courgette, nettles and sweet potato, occasionally dine on half a hikari wafer, and have an abundance of aufwuchs. It's still early days though - apparently 2 months is the point at which you can be comfortable that your Otos have settled in and are ok.

That just left the thread algea. I added 4 Amano shrimp - this was the tactic that worked for my other tank. The Amano shrimp got fat. I should have probably added about 40 for them to make a serious dent.
The two places where the thread Algae was most prevalent were the moss and the leaves of my Frogbit. I bit the bullet, and admitted to myself that really my thread algea had the odd bit of moss in it, rather than the other way round. The moss went. Then I spent several late nights digging through obscure websites (that 20th page of google hits) on how to get rid of thread algae. UKAPS said: Go high tech or have less light intensity. The internet said the same. The thread Algea grew. Finally I found one corner of a planted tank website with a host of people who had experimented with higher doses of Glute to promote plant growth and discourage algae. I also found several people who were using H2O2 - very carefully - as well. So I ran a two part experiment:
---
Part 1: gradually up my excel to 2x the recommended daily (non WC) dose. This I did with no ill effect. To my slight surprise all my stems are growing like crazy (or at least like crazy compared to full low-tech), which is a pain as I now have to keep pruning them. Doesn't seem to have affected the epiphytes though. Livestock appear oblivious.
Part 2: Prior to weekly WC:
(a) Switch off / remove the filter, and dose 1ml per 3L of 3% H202 (I took my sponge filters out temporarily).
(b) Put a powerhead in for 15 mins to make sure the H202 is properly circulated everywhere.
(c) Do W/C.
(d) Put filter back in.
(e) Immediately do daily dose of glute (I saw this described as 'hit the algae when it's down').
---
I did the H2O2 treatment two weeks in succession, and my thread algae has, for now at least, gone. I'm hoping that the Glute and the Amanos will mostly keep it in check, as H202 strikes me as a pretty blunt instrument. If I do have to use it again I think I'll take out all my botanicals as well as the filter whilst I'm doing it.

Cheers,
Simon

*The bit where I reassured Sue "This is my third tank, I know what I'm doing. I've carefully positioned it out of the sun; it'll be fine!" turns out to have been a spectacular exercise of self-delusion.
 
It's been a while since I updated. Blame life. I do frequently. First off the thread algae is gone. The H2O2 plus Glut double punch worked a treat, and since then I've been dosing 3ml Glut a day (slightly under double the recommended dose). This is a necessary evil as I can't control the sun, and the tank is in a very sunny room, so the 'low tech means low light intensity' mantra is disobeyed from the off. As I mentioned earlier, the light intensity meant lots of GSA on the glass, and being lazy, for me that meant Otos. I bought 8 in the last day of May, fully expecting them all to die, based on what I've read. One made a doomed bid for freedom after about a month and I found his (her?) corpse far too late. So far, the others seem happy.
Here are all 8 of them in the sunniest corner of the tank - interestingly all the animals in the tank seem to love the sun, and congregate in this corner when it is shining on the tank. My photos don't do it justice at all - there's something about sunlight which is magical.
8302 - 16-June Otos.jpg


For the record their diet is Aufwachs from oak leaves, plenty of GSA from the glass, half a hikari algae wafer a day (which they share with the shrimp and snails) and a couple of chunks of marrow, nettle and/or sweet potato over the week (also shared with snails and shrimp). As you can see below it goes down well!
8299 - 16-June Otos.jpg


And one more photo for luck - this of one of the Otos doing her (his?) Jaws impression.
8296 - 16 June Oto-shark.jpg
 
I use 50/50 tap water and rain water. The rainwater always has a green tint to it - I think that's because I just don't get through it fast enough and it has as a result got reasonable volumes of dissolved organics. Coupled with the oak leaves and the driftwood, I've ended up with a sort of blackwater-ish tank. I spent a couple of weeks combing the internet for ways to make it less tinted, before sighing philosophically and deciding that I would enjoy it rather than fighting it. It works, as the ten Copper Harlequins I added are, according to seriously fish, a sort of blackwater-ish fish. They appear, insofar as I can tell, to be very happy. Sometimes they do the fishy opposite of flume riding, where they swim through the dense planting at the back of the tank to the sponge filter, and take turns to jump into the stream of bubbles and get propelled to the top of the tank, occasionally breaking the surface. Then they rush round to the back of the queue and wait patiently until it is their turn again.
I have Cherry Barbs in my other other tank, which hang out together, but in a very chilled fashion. In comparison the Copper harlequins school tightly and are much more nervous of anyone approaching the tank.
Here are few pictures of them making their way through the gloom! As a free bonus there is a cameo by a piece of marrow.

8437 - 01-July Copper Harlequins.jpg


8413 - 01-July Copper Harlequins.jpg


Cheers,
Simon
 
The final inhabitant of this tank is Elton. Given the entire tank build was designed around his comfort, and he's also drop-dead gorgeous, it's not surprising he has a big ego. Here he is hanging out amongst the frogbit roots.
8357 - 01-July Elton.jpg


8398 - 01-July Elton.jpg

The Otos are completely oblivous to Elton, but the Copper Harlequins give him a wide berth. The shrimp largely ignore him, but are slightly wary if he gets too close. My plan had been to select colourless shrimplets from my other tanks to populate this tank, and therefore breed a shrimp population that would be harder for him to see or catch, and in passing select for colour in the other tanks. Win-win, you would have thought.. The colourless shrimp I added to the tank had other ideas, and have been exclusively spawning bright red offspring. The cheeky scoundrels. Fortunately Elton turned out not to be that bothered with them, which was a relief. He does definitely go on shimplet hunts though - I've seen him go after the very little ones on occasion - but his way of hunting leaves something to be desired, so largely the shrimp are safe. Essentially he swims right up close to his intended prey, pauses and has a breather whilst he makes sure they are not moving at all, and then pounces.
Here he is, making absolutely sure that his prey isn't moving, pre-pounce.
8440 - 01-July Elton.jpg


This tactic is spectacularly successful with flake and other floating food, but works less well with prey that is actually alive and can amble off whilst he catches his breath.

I'd thought the dense planting at the back of the cube would act as a safe haven for shrimp, but it turns out it's his favourite part of the tank. He's always vanishing into the undergrowth, presumably on protracted shrimplet hunts, and quite often sleeps there, cocooned in plants. Here he is off on one of his forages.
8387 - 01-July Elton.jpg


He also likes the surface - labyrinth organ definitely put to frequent use!
8404 - 01-July Elton.jpg


Taken together, all these things make feeding time rather tricky. Any food with a propensity to sink has to be dropped almost literally in front of his nose if he's going to get it before it sinks to the bottom. As well as being scared of Elton, the Copper Harlequins are also scared of me, scared of going to high, and scared of going too low. So they won't feed if Elton is nearby. They'll just watch the food sink until it's too deep for them. I'm training all the fish to know that tapping the spoon on the side of the tank means food. and I then stand at arms length and drop tiny amounts of food that the copper harlequins will hoover up before Elton arrives. Then it's point feeding for Elton. If I add too much food, or food that sinks too quickly, or spook the copper harlequins, it's lost and the only folks who benefit are the shrimp and the snails. This isn't really compatible with being in a hurry. I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do when I'm back in the office, and need to feed them to my schedule rather than theirs.

Cheers,
Simon
 
I like to think I take a half decent photo of a flower. The same cannot be said of fish or aquatic plants. And especially not of this tank. It always looks a bit crap in these photos compared to how it looks in real life. Not that it holds a candle to many of the other tanks featured across UKAPS. For every shot that you see up above there are 20 or 30 that ended up on the cutting room floor. In particular I seem to take numerous photos of my reflection - I'm really good at that. So this time I worked really hard on not taking photos with reflections in them. And I'm happy to say I succeeded. Instead I now have photos of some really, really dirty glass. Nevertheless, I forge on.

My limited experience of aquascaping, and fishkeeping more generally, has shown me that it is always out there. Whatever it is, it's out there somewhere. In this case I was holding out for a bottom feeder that would give the shrimp and snail a run for their money and didn't need to come in a group of 6 to be happy. My Glowlights refuse to go within 10cm of the bottom of the tank - I think they may be allergic to it, or something. Perhaps they come out in spots, or get really itchy tails if they get too close. My younger son was convinced eating vegetables made him come out in spots, so I'm sure it's possible. Whatever the reason, any sinking food that passes that 10cm mark is lost to them. And the Otos are strictly veggie so they're no help. Elton is too busy rooting through the undergrowth for shrimplets, so the snail population booms. I trawled planet catfish for "really small solitary catfish that will eat the food the 'quins miss" but got no hits. And so I waited. And hoped. And waited. Then one day, BAM! my LFS published their weekly fish list online, and there they were: L010a. "Well, duh," I hear you mutter, "I could have told you that." But for me L010a is like a magical gift from the heavens that fits my personal ecological vacancy far too perfectly to be a coincidence. And for those of us who don't speak Catfish L numbers, they are Rineloricaria sp., otherwise known as Red lizard whiptails. And they are spectacular.


9028 - Sept 20th Lizard.jpg


9071 - Sept 28th Lizard.jpg


8981 - Sept 16th Lizard.jpg


8974 - Sept 16th Lizard.jpg


8971 - Sept 16th Lizard.jpg
 
Well it appears to have been four months since I last updated, and - far more excitingly - it's a year to the day since I planted the tank!

So what does it look like a year later?

Generally speaking, the plants haven't died - which is a massive improvement on my previous two tanks, so I've clearly learned something along the way. Some of them have even grown, which is a bit of a pain really. I have to keep pruning them. That's not the easy life I was planning on. The whole point of being Low Tech is that I don't have to put a lot of effort in. Clearly the plants didn't get the memo. Especially the Limnophila Sessiflora. If you are looking for an unkillable weed, look no further. Here's a bit making a break for the wrong side of tank and trying to bully the AR mini into submission.

9655 - Limnophila Sessiflora 2022-02-17.jpg


The Anubias Nana, which I melted back to the Rhizome in my first tank, is now happily ensconsed in it's corner. It's next to some Pogostemon Erectus, which looks exactly the way it did the day I planted it. If only all the other plants were as well behaved.

9687 - Anubias Nana 2022-02-17.jpg


The one plant I thought I'd killed was the Hydrocotyle leucocephala (having also, I thought, killed my Hydrocotyle tripartita in the other tank). And then one day both Hydrocotyles popped up in completely different points of the tank alive and well and growing healthily. UKAPS is all about using our collective experience to gather data points that gradually paint a picture about what works and what doesn't. In that spirit I submit an opening hypothesis that the Hydrocotyle family of plants have some form of short range communication that lets them do coordinated reveals in order to deliberately confound their owners. I'm thinking possibly Bluetooth, but I'll let resident scientist and chief data collator @jaypeecee data mine for the further detail we'll need to establish if that is indeed the case, or whether it's perhaps ZigBee, LoRa, or even (perish the thought) 5G.
Here's the unexpected fairy ring of Hydrocotyle.
9593 - Hydrocotyle leucocephala 2022-02-13.jpg


You may note from the photo above, that, like many on this forum I have become Obucessed. According to the plant tags I've hoarded, I have Biblis, Catherine Dark Carpet, Green Jade, Kedagang, Pygmea Bukit Kelam, Red, Sintang, Theia Green, Theia Red and Wavy Green. Most of which reside in this tank. That has proved to be not very thought through. By way of example I give you this photo of Bucephalandra Biblis Red Kedagang, um..., of a Bucephalandra.
9431 - Cube Buce 16th Jan.jpg

You get my point. None of them look exactly like they do in the emersed Tropica orAquadip photos. And I failed to make meticulous notes of which one I put where.
Just to reinforce the point, here's another one that may or may not be Sintang. Or Theia Green.
9417 - Cube side view 16th Jan.jpg

I've come to the conclusion that Bucephalandras are like whiskies. You can take two side by side and it's kind of obvious which one is a Glendfiddich and which is a Lagavulin, but if someone puts a whisky in front of you and says "Go on then - you say you like whisky. What is it?" you're stuffed. In fairness I did once identify a mystery malt that someone bought me at the end of a very long and boozy evening in Edinburgh, but that was largely because the chap who bought it was English, and it was the only readily pronounceable brand in the pub.
Sorry. I'm digressing. Onto the moss. I'm going to gloss over all the moss that is happily growing in places where it isn't supposed to - especially intermingled with the aforementioned Buces. Instead I'm going to focus on the moss that is doing what it's supposed to - and what you see in all the fab photos from real aquascapers - where it attaches to and starts growing over the wood. In this case partially emersed.
9695 - Emergent Moss 2022-02-17.jpg


I think it looks dead good, so I spend many happy hours gazing contentedly at it.

Anyhow, onto the fish. First off the Red Lizard Whiptails (L010a). I think they are all grown up now, and are definitely benign rulers of the substrate. They will happily let shrimp climb over them, and put up with Otos curiously nosing them, but when they want something (usually an algae tablet), they are a bit like mini underwater bulldozers, and woe betide the snail that lies in their path. Here are a couple of photos. @Garuf this may be of particular interest to you so you know what you're getting into.

9638 - Red Lizard Whiptail 2022-02-17.jpg


9653 - Red Lizard Whiptail 2022-02-17.jpg


9710 - Red Lizard Whiptail 2022-02-17.jpg


There is one melancholy note in this update. We arrived back from a week away at the back end of last year to find a fish skeleton and some fat shrimp. Sadly Elton had not survived the holidays. Anecodotally I've heard that it's not unusual for Bettas to only survive for six months or so, but I'm still suspicious that I contributed in some fashion. I have much to learn about fishkeeping. We debated over whether to replace him, and eventually we might, but for now we decided to take a Betta break and seek an alternative replacement.
My thinking about fish sourcing has been turned upside down over the past year, almost entirely due to discussions and links shared on this forum. So I was extremely happy to source some wild caught Green Neon Tetras (Paracheridon Simulans). I'm sure it's not as clear cut as it has been promoted, but it makes sense that wild caught amazonian fish are a relatively sustainable industry that it is dependent on the rainforest thriving, so on balance a lot better than buying a frozen burger. They went into the quarantine tank / potting shed for a few weeks, and then into the tank about a month ago.
9639 - Green Neon Tetra 2022-02-17.jpg


Interestingly whilst the Copper Harlequins and the Green Neons both are nominally middle dwellers, the Green Neons are definitely mid-low and the Copper Harlequins mid-high. so they fill different spaces in the tank. The Green Neons are way more fearless in the tank then they were in the quarantine. Whilst they were quarantining they hid behind the plants and only came out very cautiously. I fully expected them to vanish into the undergrowth and never see them again when they went in, but from the get-go they were bolder and happier in open spaces. I wonder if the Copper harlequins acted as a dither shoal for them. They do sometimes hang out together. Although the Green Neons make the Copper Harlequins look enormous, which was slightly surprising.

9717 - Glowlight Rasbora and Neon Tetra 2022-02-17.jpg



9702 - Glowlight Rasbora 2022-02-17.jpg



9609 - Cube Arty View 2022-02-13.jpg


That leaves the Otos.
They are, I think, happy and healthy. Interestingly, when they are nestled up against the wood and stone they are fabulously camouflaged - when I go Oto counting (is it just me or does everyone spend vast amounts of time counting their fish to check all are present and correct?) I can frequently not realise that there are three right in front of me unless they choose to move. My own in-tank game of Where's Wally. Well it would be if one of my Otos was called Wally, at any rate. In fact even then that would be tough as I can't tell them apart. I'd have to call them all Wally. Then I'd be playing Where Are The Wallys, which somehow isn't the same.
Sorry; digressing again.
I'll close off with an FTS for form's sake. If I get my act together I'm sure there will be another update before Christmas.

9635 - Cube FTS 2022-02-17.jpg


Cheers,
Simon.

Oh! In case you're wondering why the photos have improved somewhat, it's because I upgraded lighting. After staring wistully at Kessils for 6 months, I had a stern financial conversation with myself and shelled out for a Lominie Asta instead, which is really rather good. I keep it turned most of the way down to minimum apart from when I'm taking photos, at which point I whack it up to max.
 

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