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To sump or n̶o̶t̶ to sump? (Swan Lake)

Look what the mail has brought some npk in 1kg buckets .. :)
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Yes of course you where planning on two pumps then having it that way makes more sense. You can also have one strong pump drive two outlets..

Yeah, I'm a bit undecided on the best way to go. My thought was that with two pumps I build in a little redundancy - if one pump fails, the other should still keep going and provide some circulation in the tank whilst the other is replaced.

Well I have 2 wavemakers in the tank yet, the more I can get rid off the better.. But I am planning one outflow just yet. Was wondering where to place it. The sump will be on the left side of the tank near the rear as thats the only place I don't have a lot of room on the back. So I think the outflows best position is on the left side to the front of the glas?

Ah, I didn't see your wave makers in your FTS image - I was wondering how you would get sufficient flow and distribution with a single outlet on a 1500 tank, but that explains it. I definitely want two inlets, to I can send fresh fully CO2 laden water to both the front of the tank, and the rear.

I'm also considering using my Oase BM600 for helping with some filtering and distribution as it'll be sitting redundant with a new tank. My idea would be to have two inlets in the rear corners and a single outlet at the rear corner.

I know that seems an odd idea if you're adding a sump, but I wouldn't have any media in it, and the baskets would be empty - I'd just use the finer pre-filter to help extract detritus from the substrate level at the rear of the tank - it's the one thing I can't get my head around using a sump that only extracts from the surface layer.
 
Ah, I didn't see your wave makers in your FTS image - I was wondering how you would get sufficient flow and distribution with a single outlet on a 1500 tank, but that explains it. I definitely want two inlets, to I can send fresh fully CO2 laden water to both the front of the tank, and the rear.

There is on in the right corner in the front and one in the back near the outflow.. Maybe going to get two inlets too but i'm still undecided I would like to have a minimal amount of pipes/equipment in the tank. Btw the tank isn't 1500 but 1300..

And those are not Kessils these are Aquamedic Qube 50 plant, pretty happy with them only thing is that if you turn up the lights to their highest settings the get to blue in my opinion..
 
I'm not sure about a trickle filter, don't think its needed for a planted tank and I'm a wary of the noise.

In how far a sump, in general, is needed for a planted tank is rather debatable. Can you filter too much? I guess not. Is more filter capacity than you really need with a sump better than simply sufficient filter capacity over a canister? I also guess not.

The best thing about a sump is, it needs far less maintenance and cleaning than a canister. Is this a need? Could be, for personal reasons.

But guessing with a reasonable doubt that too much doesn't apply in this case.. Rock and Roll! It's fun.. :)

Doesn't the trickling makes your water cool faster?

I really can't say. :) But i like my fish tanks in the cool range at 21°C tops during winter time and a minimum turnover. After a water change, the temperature is back on track within 30 minutes.
 
Am doing a water change and something has caught my attention.. I have a steel in and out take but wat if a cut off the outlet I have two inlets one higher and one lower.. Kinda waste for an outlet but could be handy for the sump right? Just a thought..
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That’s what I intend to do - have one outlet in each corner (i.e. one of each pump) but two physical openings on each so I can direct flow to the surface with one, and towards the bottom of the tank with the other.

I was looking at something like this (or a modified version thereof):
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That might even fit over your stainless steel pipe once cut!
 
Yes but I'm thinking of placing the inlets on the left front side of the tank so that I have good circulation.. From left front to the right and back to left back side where the overflow comes.. Or I can have the lower sawed off below the overflow from back to front and on the right side the higher one from back to front. Hmm options, options..
 
Looks good to me (not that I really know that much).

What are you going to use for the pipe work. I was originally thinking about standard grey rigid tubing as you common see for pnds etc, but since @zozo mention the benfint of being able to see in the pipes, I've been wondering whether clear flexible hosing might be better, and easier to install. Either standard clear hose like this: Ebay or reinforced hose like this, that might be possible to shape: RS
 
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I will use just regular pvc for most part cheaper and finding clear corners en valves would be challenging.. But the drain pipes from the overflow will be clear pvc as that would be in sight and I don't want that ugly gray to be visible..

Ooh from the pump to the first nippel will be flexible hosing so I can still move the pump around..
 
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I've not set anything like this up but just a thought re the co2 diffuser. Will the ball valves be controlled along with the Co2 solenoid so that the bypass closes when the co2 is on?

If not, is there a chance most of the water will just go through the none diffuser pipe as it will be the path of least resistance?
 
Either standard clear hose like this: Ebay or reinforced hose like this, that might be possible to shape: RS

This kind of flexible tubing is more difficult to install, 90° bends require a lot more space and the tube that was rolled up stored away, always tends to curl back. Its difficult to get it and keep it straight.

finding clear corners

I've happened to save this one in my wishlist :)
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32832373512.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.126d2e0ecuGwAS
If you do a search they also come in 32mm if you want or need some.
 
I've not set anything like this up but just a thought re the co2 diffuser. Will the ball valves be controlled along with the Co2 solenoid so that the bypass closes when the co2 is on?

If not, is there a chance most of the water will just go through the none diffuser pipe as it will be the path of least resistance?
No this is an reactor, the valves will not close. The reason of the valves is to regulate the flow trough each pipe the reactor operates optimal around 900l/h the pump can be set to 3000l/h.. I probably won't run full speed but I have the option to fine tune everything and always have room to increase or decrease the overall flow in the tank..
 
So I ordered the pvc will be in next week or so..
Now I have to determine where the inflow has to come, I have two pipes one higher and on lower.. I think that the first drawing is the best option, but I have to drill holes in the table for that so if it's there it is for good..
Any thoughts or other option on this?
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So I ordered the pvc will be in next week or so..
Now I have to determine where the inflow has to come, I have two pipes one higher and on lower.. I think that the first drawing is the best option, but I have to drill holes in the table for that so if it's there it is for good..
Any thoughts or other option on this?
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Personally I’d have it as the first drawing, but with the low outlet in the rear right corner firing down the back of the tank, maintaining the circular flow, but also getting some CO2 rich water to your rear stems.

On the front left high outlet, you can angle it towards the front glass so there is also some downward movement towards the front low level plants.
 
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