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Tracy Island

Hi all, Paste it up, but you will have hard water, pretty much fully saturated with calcium and bicarbonate ions.

There are geological reasons for this, mainly that the aquifers are all chalk, with that chalk extending across the channel and N. Sea into Europe.

600px-KentGeologyWealdenDomeSimple.svg.png

That is a pretty good indication that you have <"plenty of nitrogen">. You are good I think, it is a midge larvae and nothing to worry about.TDS is a <"bit of strange one">, because none of the TDS meters actually measure TDS, they all measure electrical conductivity (in microS) and then use a conversion factor (usually 0.64) to estimate the TDS in ppm. This makes the assumption that all the TDS is comprised of ions, which is usually pretty near the mark.

cheers Darrel
Hello Darrel,

Thanks for pitching in. Love that cross section image and yes, we’re going to be smack in the middle of that N.Downs chalk region. Didn’t know it ran through N. Europe. I’ve attempted to attach the S.Water regional report to this post. Margate region. No breaches. ‘VERY high hardness‘, says the website when I punch in my postcode.

Report suggests there’s plenty of micro nutrients in the water and I’m guessing water-based plants have broadly the same needs as others, such as soil and hydroponics i.e. 18 basic nutrients (plus a few bonuses if available like Silicon and, I think, IIRC- Nickel) but just delivered differently and possibly uptaken differently? Hydro is three from air, three from water and the rest from the nutrient mix, for example.

Thanks for lending your ear to my interloper issue. Yep, I think you’re in the ballpark if not indeed spot on. Enough to put my mind at rest for sure. I’m very grateful. Makes an awful lot of sense. We’ve got a couple of solar fountains in the garden, near the kitchen windows. Most critically, Project Neocaradina Davidaii could well be back on !

I’ll try scooching young McWormface out in a water change (although I think he’s to savvy for that schtick). I’ll try the Planaria Tube method and failing that I’ll have to consider a BTI/ Mosquito Dunk approach but it’s inordinately expensive for the fraction I’ll need. Planaria C would probably do it too but seems a little more involved although considerably cheaper. He’s grown a bit unless there are others but I think he/they can’t multiply of themselves i.e. one egg, one larvae? But the rate of growth suggests even if I can’t get him, he’ll sooner or later ‘evolve’ and fly off. Also read that some are ‘biters’ and some are not so it’s something I want to turn a page on before getting shrimp in the event that it’s a mossie rather than a midge larvae.

Agree about TDS and mine is a (0.64x) version. It also gives EC’s in microumols (I think) and I use it to balance hyrdo nutrient solution densities to 2000 (M.Um) @ around ph6 (using ph Down) which the chillies need for optimum nutrient uptake. I believe TDS is more of ‘stateside metric, with EC being more eurocentric. Since the EC is to four integers on my pen (and the TDS to three) perhaps I’ll use that for more accurate dissolution figures. My knowledge of ions for now is that I believe they come in different charge particles which TDS pens are not fantastically brilliant at differentiating. I’m still learning;)

Thanks again and I’ll report back on my turf manoeuvres against W McW.

best wishes

BG
 

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Hi all,
I’ve attempted to attach the S.Water regional report to this post.
Perfect. The ones you are interested in are:
  1. Nitrate (NO3), so a pretty consistent 35 ppm, which means that you don't have to add much/any.
  2. Conductivity, all quite high but variable, 485 - 628 microS. Because of the nitrate reading, and the variability in the conductivity, it is a shallow aquifer or surface water supply and the lower values are during periods with lots of rain.
  3. Hardness, hard so plenty of dGH/dKH, all from CaCO3.
18 basic nutrients (plus a few bonuses if available like Silicon and, I think, IIRC- Nickel) but just delivered differently and possibly uptaken differently?
Just the same. All plants need the same essential elements and can take them in only as "ions" from solution. This includes cacti etc. not just aquatic and hydroponic plants.
Also read that some are ‘biters’ and some are not
Non-biting I think.

cheers Darrel
 
That’s great Darrel, and it’s Siemens and not umols of course, thank you.

1) Explains why my nitrates remain relatively high at 40/80ppm I guess. I’m effectively replacing like for like during a typical water change, there’s little dilution going on. Down to the plants to grab some of that back and perhaps moderate the volume and frequency of w changes as the plants settle in.

2) Really interesting. I might try and find out from whence my supplies are gathered exactly. Always wanted to have a good poke round one of these places and the associated treatment works. Airoponics relies on fish and plants almost exclusively as a detrital/ microbial purifying medium I understand but I don’t think the UK has any large scale works. It’s an almost perfect symbiotic arrangement. Crops and say, Tilapia grow in water, we eat both and produce the next round of firmament, and so on.

3) yes, cliffs of Dover etc.

The macro/micros check out on TNC complete. I’m sure I’m oversupplying but knocking back the algae manually is fine for now. I dose after a weekly deep clean. I’m delighted and spellbound by plants‘ coping abilities, often despite my best efforts to inadvertently throttle them.

TNC (other complete nutrient solutions available) as a hydro blend could be interesting experiment worth a Pak Choi seedling or two.

W McW - let’s hope so. Would love to capture him/it/them in one of the conservative strategies above. Life isn’t it? Tenacious; I have to respect that. (Little trouble maker will no doubt grow up to bite me. I’m a moving feast for such creatures it seems.) Thank goodness for anti-histamines:cool:

best wishes

BG
 
Hi all,
1) Explains why my nitrates remain relatively high at 40/80ppm I guess. I’m effectively replacing like for like during a typical water change, there’s little dilution going on. Down to the plants to grab some of that back and perhaps moderate the volume and frequency of w changes as the plants settle in.
That is partially why I like a floating plant, they aren't CO2 limited, so they can potentially make use of more of the fixed nitrogen. There is interest in using this approach for<"waste water treatment">. I would probably keep on changing some water, but it isn't ideal.
I might try and find out from whence my supplies are gathered exactly.
This link <"Where our water comes from">?
I’m a moving feast for such creatures it seems.
Sheep Ticks love me, I've no idea why, but they do.

cheers Darrel
 
Evening UKAPSers,

When I last dialled in it was all about a certain little chap swimming around my tank that wasn’t invited.

B64010C0-CA71-4524-A780-02A436CA972A.jpeg
so there he is.
D3A10CAA-3B1C-44E8-9DF0-4FEC61C30951.jpeg
..and in a Planaria tube along with a mate. Turns out I think I pulled maybe twenty or so of them out one way or another. For the record, the Planaria tube worked pretty well. I used a bit of cooked chicken and another time- raw bacon. In the end though I would just scan the tank, pre-squeeze the bulb of a turkey baster then suck the critters up and shoot it into a plastic beaker. They all went , more or less, in a small solar fountain outside. Not for me to play .....’BIG g‘. Let nature sort it out. I continued to read and Darrel, you were spot on - thank you. Basically a version of blood worm. Turns out that chances are any shrimp would probably have predated on them (or any that are left). I havent seen one for over a week.

Plants seem happy and whilst not thriving like they’re on steroids, they’re not dying either. I couldn’t resist adding a couple of small sußwassertang clumps, tied onto small pebbles with cotton. Quite old-school but wanted to try it. Right, no more plants in that tank.:rolleyes:

Algae remains an issue. Green string for the most part but the Anubis has brown which I think is diatoms. I just brush it off with my fingers during a water change. I’m keeping an eye on it.

I’m getting constant 0ppm Nitrites but rather frustratingly I’m not sure I’ve yet got 0ppm ammonia. I haven’t added anymore fish flakes and I’m on top of plant mulm for the most part. Maybe it is 0ppm and I’m just not interpreting the results correctly. The colour for 0ppm on the test card is a sunny yellow and I’m getting a weak yellow. Pictures on the web suggest the colour chart is misleading.

I don’t want to risk any inverts until I’m sure as I know they’re sensitive. To continue under review for a further week I think
4A85041D-8112-4413-9BE4-C7DF0DF1A34B.jpeg

There’s the tank as is. Report back soon.

BG
 
Hello all,


This is gonna be a long one as it’s been a while. Sorry.


For anyone interested but who has the good sense to want just the bottom line without flushing ten unreclaimable minutes of their life away here‘s the bottom line;


The tank is basically ok.
I have fantastic Blue Velvet Neocaradina shrimp courtesy of Steve Buce.
There are ongoing issues with algae of various types and growth issues which I’m trying to be systematic in addressing.
The long term viability or this aquascape is beginning to be questioned.
I set up a second test tank to experiment with co2 which has been an unfocussed disaster.
I’m finding the constant scavenging for incomplete information combined with my inability to understand some profound concepts by turns frustrating and compelling.
I’m hoping the compelling continues to trump the frustrating but it’s a close call sometimes.

Done.



For a long ramble on the above plus pretty rubbish pictures see below;


Been quite a while since I updated this journal and looking back on it I can’t believe the energy and puppy-like enthusiasm I threw at this. The thrill of the new I suppose. I guess it’s still there but a little more tempered now. The rabbit hole just goes deeper and deeper but that’s a good thing. If one could just set up a tank and SHAZAM - lush plants like just out of the invitro jelly, aesthetic sensitivities of a renaissance architect who then became a Taoist monk and perfect knowledge of a super computer there would be no path, no development. The tank would be just another object on a sideboard, like another piece of tat to fill a gap. I have had a more than a few wobbles about all this planted tank lark though. No denying it. It might prematurely finish me yet, the combination of algae and incomplete science (applied) leaving me to only really able to rely on what I personally experience in an utterly subjective way.

Anyway, here’s a very boring picture.

B90C8239-C6FE-4275-A395-81F9C0BFE406.jpeg

Some while ago realised that despite this tank being in a nice spot to view and fettle with it was getting belted with direct and indirect sunlight from dawn until midday from east-facing windows (and lots of them). I knocked this together and have it in place during daylight hours. Ugly- yes, functional - mostly, in need of a long term upgrade - most certainly. What it should do is give me more control of what I understand to be one of the big three basic levers of tank balance. Since one of those levers in this tank appears to be fixed, i.e. this is a no-co2 supplemented tank, it seems quite important to have as much direct control over the remaining two as I can exert (wether or not I have the knowledge, skill and luck to apply those levers correctly is quite another matter of course ) An almost immediate reduction in the rate of algae on the glass resulted. It’s a faff - take it off, put somewhere out of the way, put in on......take it off, put.. etc but Mrs Big G wanted it within eyeshot of where we sit of an evening rather than have to make a point of visiting a distinct, less communal and possibly more remote spot. Fair enough. That spot comes with issues of fluctuating heat in summer as well of course.

E4EFA1D1-0FB2-4480-9A9D-3A637E5E9A5B.jpeg
BF70EE4C-E7D2-4DE6-B13B-72A3D8B5BCC3.jpeg

So here’s the tank as it is more or less a few days ago.

Seems I’ve been subconsciously drawn to put together what I understand is called a diorama-style scape from what I can best judge. A mini recreation of a land-based vista? I believe these are not particularly sustainable long-term and mine has huge flaws and many mistakes on many levels. In no particular order and if I mush all the hundreds of hours of online videos and articles I’ve viewed together as best I can then accordingly I have infringed upon accepted wisdom in the following ways;


There isn’t enough stem planting space and/or nutrient containing substrate areas for substrate-based plants.

I did not include enough plants from the start either in terms of maximising the substrate areas I DO have nor the epiphetic-friendly spaces I could have used.

I thought I could ’grow in heavy’ rather than ‘plant in heavy’.

I didn’t design the layout well enough to contain terraced areas of aquasoil that didn’t slip or blend into areas lower down or into areas of cosmetic sand.

I thought I had a solution to stopping the blending of aquasoil with capping cosmetic sand in the context that I don’t actually really like very dark substrate visually as a top layer. I still don’t but the method I used was rubbish.

I planted and re-planted too much.

I used too much surface and water column grabbing hardscape (predominantly rocks).

I didn’t finalise the hardscaping and substrate layout before flooding the tank.

I (probably) used too much light from the start.

I fiddled around with flow rates and directions too much. Honestly? I am still struggling to find a flow method that balances the conflicting needs of surface adjutation for oxygen exchange and surface film dispersion with both water column flow and the floating plants’ desire (I believe) not to be circulated round the tank like a kid on a roller coaster.

I didn’t settle on a fertiliser dosing regime early enough. Again, to be fair, this remains an ongoing and entire set of side tunnels in the larger rabbit hole. Conflicting and incomplete information(perhaps just to me) doesn’t help.

There are probably more but that’s all I can think of for now. It all seems a little punishing when listed like that doesn’t it? I’m no masochist . Just being brutally honest with both myself and anyone who reads this that it might help too.


It is what it is though and you can see that design-wise the only rescaping has been to vacuum most of the sand off the aquasoil, vacuum the aquasoil off the middle beach area entirely and create aquasoil only and sand only areas. The only sand area is now the beach area in the middle. All of the netting I placed between the aquasoil and the sand originally has been removed.

Tank mods:

As a temporary measure to help the Salvinia out I’ve used the cut out rim of a plastic tub to float them in. It mostly works but is quite unnatural and a bit cheesy for my liking. It does seem to work though.

0D5E7053-2105-4CB6-B2EB-090D129FF96E.jpeg 8D784F38-3F3A-43C8-9830-E6D661A3F4D9.jpeg

I splashed out on a filter chamber/media basket upgrade by Intank as I wanted to try and stop the shrimp from reaching the lower chamber area of the filter although by doing so they revealed the huge bypass issues with the original filter as well as the design limitations.

The Intake media basket is certainly an upgrade in terms of long term convenience and media customisation (which I haven’t properly ‘Pondguru’d yet as you can see). It didn’t solve the bypass issue fully nor foil the tenacity of the shrimp until I did this

C434B171-221D-4B8F-8E36-85BE89239CAB.jpeg

A bit of carefully cut sponge both means anything entering the chamber must now go down through the layered chambers serially. Having some of the original filter sponge cut to fit the top chamber means shrimp can use that area as a chill out room whilst they are small enough to fit through the grills but not venture down to the sump area. Trying to get a 4mm baby shrimp out of a small, long, dark sump chamber full of murky filter water is to be avoided.

The kit comes with a thin plastic piece that grips the acrylic media basket from hooks on the tank space and acts as a sort of grill restricter to increase kinetic flow into the top media chamber as well as hold the media basket flush against the wall. Well, maybe I’m missing a trick but the sponge I put in holds the basket flush and the restricted flow just channels the same amount of water through a smaller space imho. It also means that you have far less latitude in tank water level and far more quickly risk a situation where water pumped back into the tank exceeds that being ushered into the filter area. Since the filter area and pump areas are conjoined you could run the filter area and the pump area (which I have my heater in) dry at some point due to evapouration.

I really like it though but only with the mods Ive made. It’s got the original (now conditioned) Fluval biomedia in it , some cut up bits of the original sponge and a sachet of Purigen in. I’ll be adding a netted bag of Matrix and maybe some medium sponge ala Pondguru in due course. For the record, fine filter floss really restricts the draw of the pump and needs replacing every ten days or so.

Some Blue Velvet shrimp from Steve Buce (Thank you once again Steve. A true gentleman and man of his word) went in a while back and apart from one twenty four hour period where I lost about ten babies from the first berried female, for reasons unknown, they seem very healthy and happy. About eight of original crew appear to be in circulation at any one time (I have never seen a dead adult shrimp) and about ten of the babies range from 5mm to about 12mm and three more females are about to give birth. The shrimp have saved me from breaking the tank down on more than one occasion as I watch them Doozer around and have fun. Can’t see myself going back to fish at any point . Maybe a snail but fish, whilst very pretty seem to me to have less interesting behaviour- like a toy robot with limited programming somehow. Higher orders like Cribensis are a different matter. Shrimp really engage with every facet of the surfaces and crevices in their endless search for biofilm and mating opportunities.

Plantwise it’s currently the following;

Java moss - gone. A complete miserable nightmare of algae.
Flame moss - hanging in there on a twig but poorly after a heavy cut. Also a bit tied to a sliver of stone that just attracts, for want of a better term, grey dusty motes.
Weeping moss - just a bit tucked into a crevice. Neither grows nor dies. Same grey motes.
Spiky moss - seems to be actually growing well but also picks up grey motes.

Monte Carlo- it’s been in, its been out. It’s grown, its’s melted. I have only a little bit left very sparsely planted which is now just an experimental thing. Might root and make a carper in about 200 years at this rate.

Rotala rotundifolia - was growing ok but I moved some of it and took some of it for my experiment tank. It’s slowly coming back but doesn’t seem too healthy.

Hygrophilia Siamensis 53b- bought to replace the dreadful attempt at a moss tree back right and also to up my stem density. It’s ok. Growing slowly with huge deep roots in substrate. A bit yellow and gets brown algea on some of its leaves. Some placed front left to cover another design flaw in the layout.

Anubias Nana - puts the odd leaf out in each of its three locations but gets covered in shrimp waste and brown algae frequently. Its put out big feeler roots some of which I’ve left and some I’ve trimmed. Recently found that a microfibre cloth gets the brown stains off the leaves.

Microsorum pteropus ’narrow’ - bought to conceal a huge design flaw in my layout that could only be rectified with filter floss. It performs that function at the price of being too far forward in the layout. A few manky leaves but puts out baby plants frequently.


Sußwassertang/ Monosolenium Tenerum - gone. Another diatom magnet even in a tank that no longer lists diatoms amongst it’s list of unwanted organics. I understand this is one of those hard water things.

Bucephalandra micrantha ‘Needle leaf’ - bought along with a few other epiphytes to increase plant biomass retrospectively. Im warming to this little plant. Just gets on with it’s thing. A few leaves are dying but some other new ones are growing. Like it.

Hygrophilia Pinnatifida - same philosophy as with the buce but know this is a ’medium’ plant but thought I would try it as by all accounts there is enough PAR from the Fluval strip to be called a ‘medium’ light. Also by Tropica’s own Lumen per litre scale (just don’t get me started on my frustrations with the inadequacy of a reliable, scaleable, consistent measuring method of LED lighting as there is for say, T5HO :mad:)there’s enough light. I think it’s dying...but just very slowly.

Hydrocotyle Tripartita ‘Japan’ same as the other two previous epiphytes I chose this off the back of an article by Dennis Wong in the belief its capable of being used in that way. It’s slowly going yellow in the positions I have it located held onto pebbles by cotton. Another ‘medium’ plant. I may actually try and treat some of this as a stem plant and see what happens. May only be epiphetic in high energy setups.

This whole (particularly LED) light and fertilisation area, which in a low tech planted tank are the only two levers I have as co2 is beyond my ability to influence, is just so indirectly, obliquely, conflictingly and cryptically talked about in everything Ive seen and read it makes me crave for a solid, old fashioned book which nails the whole thing down clearly and properly. The only other way is testing - trial and error, suck it and see. I’ll do that but I wish I had some clear, unambiguous, simple to follow methodology to kick off from. If I watch another gurning youtuber show me a tank full of immaculate plants and hardscape without explaining their rationale FULLY I shall need another computer:mad: Whinge over

Current regime

shrimps get half a rice grains- worth of Bacter AE shaken in a test tube of tank water per day plus a tiny bit of various treat foods every 2-3 days in a glass dish that all but one or two show not the slightest interest in.

lights are currently running 6.5 hrs a day on a timer. No adjustment options

Ferts are 0.4mm TNC Complete per day as per just about the closest thing Ive found to some forthright advice in one of George Farmers videos which itself is based on the dosing regime he created for his Aquascaper complete liquid. Low tech 1ml per 50 litres per day. 20ish litre tank, bit less than half of 1mm. Dosed with a syringe. Daily is quite a bind so may drop that into two or three times a week instead. Total ferts per week seems to be more than TNC recommend but about half what a full EI- style regime for a high tech tank would be. I honestly just cannot fathom the whole ferts issue at this point. Too many questions and too many incomplete answers. Uh oh, whinging again :eek:.

Algae- wise I had diatoms for about two weeks which I scrubbed and nipped out with pincers. Most of the Java moss got dumped in the diatom wave as it just couldn’t be teased out. Bleach and h202 treatments outside the tank just nuked it.

Currently got this grey/white dusty, fluffy stuff mainly on the mosses. I just shake the moss as best I can in the water column when I do a water change (40-50% once a week).

Got tiny green tufts with the odd filament strand on wood and rocks. I scrub the rocks with a toothbrush or interdental at WC time and pincer off the longer strands.

Got darker brown tufts with no filaments on rocks which I also scrub off at WC.

most weird is white, almost transparent hairs that almost look like fine nylon. Gets caught up in most of the plants. Spend hours removing with pincers. Too fine for cat or human hair. Real pain and very unsightly

plans

I’m toying with putting a Nerite snail in if I can get one but haven’t decided yet. I would rather not but it might be interesting.
The only real controls I have without resorting to chemical stop-gaps is lighting time and fertilisation.....and time. I’m going to try 7 hours a day light and keep everything else the same. I doubt the longterm viability of this scape but we’ll see. I may try and find space for another ‘easy’ stem that grows fast and I may double up on my floating plants as the Salvinia seems healthy but is not propagating very well.
all the best and sorry about the whinging. Bg.
 
Update;
20200914_221250.jpg

Green tufty growth from wood




20200914_221224.jpg
Just to the right of the HT Japan- what I suspect is something coming under the term 'BBA'.

20200914_221149.jpg

This one shows both the grey motes and white hairs on a bit of flame moss.


Quite the collection eh

Bg
 
Time for a roundup.

38E932EE-ADCE-49A0-B0B7-91F0C9643A8F.jpeg
There’s the tank as it is today.

Algae issues- as some may know from the ‘Levers’ thread I’ve slowly been ramping up the photoperiod to 8 hours and will keep it there for now. The plants seem to have responded moderately well and there does not seem to be a big change in algae apart from the stringy green stuff.

currently have;

Green stringy algae - which feels crunchy and tough between the pincette blades. It’s quite brittle and fairly easily removed manually. Some of the strands, if not spotted, can grow to 6 inches long. This algae seems to have responded well, so to speak, to an increase in lighting period. Mainly based on rocks but have noticed a bit on the H. Pinitifada.

Green ’tufty’ algae - this stuff is almost pretty but gets removed periodically. I bought a little dental kit of plaque scrapers and the more stubborn tufts come off with that if needed. Strictly a rock algae for me. Since I have Dragon stone I need to be careful as it’s a surprisingly soft rock that scratches easily...at least in its red iteration. The cream coloured bits are MUCH harder.

BBA - like eye lashes on a leaf. This seems to affect the 53b, the Anubias, Buce Needle and H.Tripartita most. I generally try and remove affected leaves but have also tried spot treatment with h2o2(no effect) and glute(mixed results). There was some similar brown velvety stuff on some of the rocks but that seems to have retreated. The Buce is attached to small pebbles in four sections and I’m experimenting with removing each in turn , putting in a shallow dish and syringing onto the leaves directly. Then leaving for 30 mins before rinsing and replacing in tank. We’ll see how that goes.

Inverts - the shrimps seem pretty good although I do have the odd death here and there which is very sad. I’m trying to be stoic about it as frankly there isn’t much I can do apart from check ammonia levels etc. I’ve reduced their feeding regime with the Bacter AE to a few times a week and also a treat a few times a week. They’re loving the Shirakura Ebi Dami at the moment. I’m trying to keep them a little more hungry as I understand this is better.

I have a Tiger Nerite and two tiny Horned Zebra Nerites in the tank now and they seem pretty happy. They may just be having a pop at the BBA as it seems to have calmed down a bit but its hard to say. I have certainly changed my thinking on snails. They’re very entertaining and interesting.

INVASION - about ten days ago I started noticing what I thought were newly born shrimplets but I now think are some sort of Copopod/Ostropod community. I don’t really know what to think or do about them to be honest. If they are a threat to the shrimp, in time, they will no doubt wipe out my colony. Again, I’m fairly stoic about it as there’s no way I can really do much.
Here’s a pic. You can see them as little whitish oval bugs. They’re about a third of the size of a grain of Tropica soil granule;

Overall plant health seems good. I ’m now dosing 1.5ml of TNC Complete twice a week, water change 50% once a week, temperature is set at between 21-22c, light as said, is now 8hours from the supplied kit unit.The mosses are doing well, the three groups of Anubias put out new leaves regularly ...which subsequently look pretty rubbish within a week, the H. Tripartita seems to be more established, the 53b is probably the ‘fastest’ grower and I keep cutting the tops and replanting it. The Frogbit and Salvinia seem to be growing slowly but healthily. I wasn’t sure about the long trailing roots but they have grown on me. The MC is hanging in and the R.Rotundifolia is happy too. I added some S.Repens a while ago. Some of it is planted and some is set epiphetically. Both seem happy enough. Interestingly (to me) I have tried the same trick with the H. Tripartita and whilst the best results are from the planted pieces, the epiphetic strands are still just about hanging in there. The M. Narrow puts out new leaves and babies, some of which I’ve lightly glued to chips of stone to see if they can evolve into full plants. I’ve got very mixed feelings about this plant. It always seems to look damaged and incomplete somehow. Maybe time will change that too?

None of the plants are supremely healthy but none of them are melting stumps either. I’m open to suggestions about what others here might change and why.

Overall, I’m really quite liking this tank. I’m not freaking out about the algae but just diligently knocking it back whilst the plants slowly grow. It’s all I can really do. I guess I’m both curious about where this community of tiny bugs have come from and also if they will ultimately wipe the tank out. Of course I care greatly about my shrimp and snails but flipping out isn’t going to help. I will seek the wisdom contained on this forum.



4B6CCFC6-8034-4735-88C3-AFBAC5383E54.jpeg


best wishes,

Bg
 
Hi all,
which feels crunchy and tough between the pincette blades
That sounds like Cladophora. Have you <"tried sniffing it?">.
this stuff is almost pretty but gets removed periodically.
We have a <"few threads">. Personally I would sell my grandma to have something like this in my tank.

green_beard_algae-jpg.jpg

I now think are some sort of Copopod/Ostropod community. I don’t really know what to think or do about them to be honest. If they are a threat to the shrimp, in time, they will no doubt wipe out my colony. Again, I’m fairly stoic about it as there’s no way I can really do much.
Here’s a pic. You can see them as little whitish oval bugs. They’re about a third of the size of a grain of Tropica soil granule;.......I guess I’m both curious about where this community of tiny bugs have come from and also if they will ultimately wipe the tank out.
One or the other, but in either case entirely harmless. You can tell what you've got <"by the way they move">.
Overall plant health seems good.
Too be honest that is the main thing. I might still try upping the light intensity a little bit. The internodes on the plant stems are quite long and the plants look to be leaning towards the light?

cheers Darrel
 
Afternoon Darrel,

Interesting, I’ll have to re-read about Clado. I didn’t think it was that initially as its green and isn’t ‘branchy’ but will give it a sniff (although my olfactory capacity is a blow out at the moment due to a cold - noncv19- and eating a few of my recent crop of Orange Habanero/Carolina Reaper hybrids- like having someone tear your tongue out and put it on a white hot griddle - quite a rush!)

I’ll try and take a decent picture of some of the green threads in my hand or against a white background.

No need to barter a no doubt beloved relly - I’m more than happy to cultivate some in situ and send you some to seed a tank. My pleasure. It isn’t the wild, hirsute mane in your picture but if I leave it (and the inverts do, fingers crossed), we might get lucky in time.

I’ll check that link about the difference between Copopods & Ostropods and report back. My inclination is it’s the latter but we’ll see. It’s great to hear they should be benign. It’s another level of micro-life and they too are very interesting to watch. If they help the overall environment - all the better. You are most welcome to some of those too of course.

Unfortunately light intensity is beyond my control short of replacing the original unit (which I am considering). The specification of the LED strip from the the Fluval Spec V owners leaflet says;

Imput watts (sic) - 10 w (I’m assuming this is what is drawn)
LED watts - 7.4w (...and this is the output/delivery)
Lumens - 821 Lumens
Color temp. (sic) - 7000k
LED’s - 37

There’s a brilliant website dedicated to this tank where the guy ran a PAR meter under the included tank light;

http://spec-tanks.com/fluval-spec-v-aquarium-review/

(it’s towards the bottom) and seems to push out an average of 50 PAR which is ok for ’easy’ plants I imagine.

I might try one of these Chihiros rigs if I can find a way of getting one at the right size. There’s no official distributor in the UK though so tricky. For now though I cant even try and tip the inverse square law in my favour as the LED is on a fixed bar. I might be able to gain an in or two by taking the bar out of its retaining bracket and try and lay it flush on the perspex cover but that’s very stopgap. Beyond that it’s really only the photoperiod I can change. I know the two are not reciprocal but maybe a slow ramp-up to nine hours over say, the next month?

Thanks again

kind regards

Bg
 
Hi all,
Beyond that it’s really only the photoperiod I can change. I know the two are not reciprocal but maybe a slow ramp-up to nine hours over say, the next month?
That sounds like a plan. You can't compensate for light intensity <"below the LCP">, but you are definitely higher than that, so a longer light period may help.
I’m more than happy to cultivate some in situ and send you some to seed a tank.
That is very kind of you, once or twice I have had little tufts grow, but they never last, so it is conditions and/or grazing thing.

cheers Darrel
 
Here's a new year round-up on this tank.

Everything seems pretty good. The BD's are happy and there's a few berried females (or Contact 500's for those old enough to remember).

Bringing the heater into the main chamber seems to have looked for the extra stability I was seeking. There's a Dremel job to be done on the coverglass for the heater flex of course.

I still have my green string/hair algae issue but I've sussed it's favoured spots, how it likes to attach, it's growth rate and tensile strength. I'm sure I'll eventually pin down it's competitive advantage and a way to tune that out.

The tank is going to have some topiary done, as is the style of this tank but geared towards nothing dominates too much and to keep the total biomass down a bit.

The S Repens isn't happy partly because of it's location but also because I think it might benefit from rooting in this set up. My Tiger Nerite has other ideas so I need to work on that.

I found a tiny little Pinitifida baby and have given it a good spot. It's rewarded me with beautiful pinks and greens.

The Rotala in the centre has coloured-up as it approached the surface and I've decided to trim and plant that tip again either in the same area or in my Blau tank.

The 53b and H.T. are having a few issues with scrappy older foliage so another one to ponder.

Just given the BVs a Bacter/pollen/montmorillionite mashup.

It's been such an interesting and rewarding tank and I've spent endless hours enjoying it and pondering it. Everything I hoped for and more.

Thanks to everyone that's viewed it and offered input. Appreciate it.

All the best for a better 2021

Peace and goodwill to everyone

Big G
 

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Cheers Simon.

I might try hitting the ‘roots’ of a known outcrop with an h202/ glute double-punch for three or four alternate days to see how it responds.

Longer term solutions might be a few more small water changes per week or even switching to TNC Lite as I have around 40ppm coming from the tap already. If I had the flexibility to increase PAR and perhaps reduce duration slightly I might try that too but it’s not an option for now. It seems to favour parts of the tank that have moderate, indirect exposure. It’s something to work from.
Even the ostrocods won’t touch the stuff.

It’s a question of making it uncomfortable without making the other flora similarly so. Might not be possible of course. I’m not that bothered. More curious than anything. A little algae fishing once in a while is enough to keep it in check and I keep a mental record of the longest thread that I can pull out unsnapped. About 8 inches is my current record.

There’s load of strategies to try in the coming year and if that remains the biggest issue?, as the saying goes, ‘I’ll buy that for a dollar’ :)

Have a peaceful and healthy NYE

Big G
 
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