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Treating for white spot and shrimp

Alastair

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Joined
27 Dec 2009
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4,402
Location
Denton, Manchester
Hi. Ive just noticed 2 of my newly introduced choccos have white spot despite being in quarantine for a bit at the lfs.
Unfortunately the " turn up to 28 degrees' method is out of the question due to the various shrimp ive got and I can't catch all the shrimp and separate out as I dont have a spare tank.
Ive researched online and found on here and other forums that esha exit is one of the only ich treatments to be shrimp safe and does state this on their website too. Ive just ordered a bottle today but am in a dilemma as when to start.
On Saturday I have 25 cbs arriving which I cant put off. Do I wait until they are acclimatised and settled in, so a couple of days, or should I start dosing straight away.
I was thinking that if I wait until they are settled in they'll not be put into a tank thats full of medication therefore less shock to them.
Anyone else used the esha with shrimp?,


Any help would be great thanks.

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Can't comment on the meds, but can you not keep the shrimp in a tub until you've finished treatment? I've kept 40 or 50 cherries in a filterless tank at room temperature for about a month before without any noticeable losses.


Hiya mate, i was just thinking that but luckily the gent who is bringing up my cbs has offered to drop them off next friday instead which is really kind of him. cherries at room temp id be confident with but the crystals im not sure about.

i just hope this esha doesnt affect the current shrimp in any way
 
Esha Exit chemically is probably OK for hardy shrimp. I wouldn't risk it with CRS tho. The stuff has methyl blue in it for one iirc. Theres a whole host of carcinogenic chemicals in it so be careful handling it.

If you want to isolate the shrimp before you treat the tank, remember that you have to keep the quarantined for at least a month or two to allow the parasites to complete their life cycles and die off.

Isolating them would also let you turn the temp up and get the main tank treated faster.
 
Random, and possibly totally impractical suggestion. Catching the shrimp in your tank is going to be nigh on impossible. Therefore, can you catch all the fish and treat them elsewhere while you wait out the lifecycle of the ich in the main tank?

Slightly convoluted but avoids dosing the main tank.
 
Esha Exit chemically is probably OK for hardy shrimp. I wouldn't risk it with CRS tho. The stuff has methyl blue in it for one iirc. Theres a whole host of carcinogenic chemicals in it so be careful handling it.

If you want to isolate the shrimp before you treat the tank, remember that you have to keep the quarantined for at least a month or two to allow the parasites to complete their life cycles and die off.

Isolating them would also let you turn the temp up and get the main tank treated faster.
Its pretty impossible for me to catch all the shrimp as some have made home deep inside the little holes in the wood.
Ive read lots of feedback on here and pfk where people have used it with cherries, bees crs etc and all has been fine.

The ingredients in it are Ethacridine lactate 6.3mg, Malachite green oxalate 0.31mg, methylene blue 3.98mg, quantities per ml of medication solution.

This is one of many quotes from someone who has used it and shows manufactures guidlines

"The manufacturer states it is on the website
Can I use eSHa products in an aquarium containing shrimps?
This depends on whether it is a fresh water or marine aquarium.Fresh water:All eSHa products for fresh water are suitable for use in fresh water aquaria containing fresh water shrimps.
In the case of Protalon 707® it is important to monitor your water quality and to prevent your shrimps from eating too many dead algae (For more information check the Advice section, subject: Treating Algae).
Ive used it on my tank which has quite a number of shrimp and noticed no issues whatsoever"


Big water change before adding treatment removes parasites but that may upset shrimp too. Treatment at lower temps take much longer, I had to treat for 2 weeks after last spots were gone to get it out of my tank @25 degrees this is reduced to 4 days @28 degrees

The esha states you dont need to increase temp in the tank or do big water changes before and after and is a 3 day dose or 5 for very stubborn transport itch.


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I got it when i was given a pair of clown loach. I treated at half dose a couple of times only for it to come back a couple of weeks later, so i dosed at full dose in days 1&4 as per instructions on bottle and again it came back. So i dosed on days 1,4,8,12,16 and it didnt come back.
It was interpet not esha but it also said no need for waterchanges or temp increase. I dont think you need to but im sure it helps. If you could remove fish for treatment it would be best but probably not pratical. Shrimp will probably be ok because treatments are not as strong as they used to be. It will be interesting know how shrimp react to meds but could be costly if does harm them
 
[quote="Alastair]
The esha states you dont need to increase temp in the tank or do big water changes before and after and is a 3 day dose or 5 for very stubborn transport itch.
[/quote]
I really would recommend treating for 2 weeks - especially at 25˚C. You can ignore everyones advice but it can come back and not be visible for another week or so - and then you've dyed everything in your tank cyan for no reason. Stubborn cases can take up residence in the fishes gills and will kill them with no externally visible symptoms.
 
I have always kept a bottle of King British WS3, And have never had problems with treating in a tank with shrimp.
I am sure I have used this treatment when I kept Cardinal shrimp in the past. HTH
 
I have always kept a bottle of King British WS3, And have never had problems with treating in a tank with shrimp.
I am sure I have used this treatment when I kept Cardinal shrimp in the past. HTH

Hiya gill. Thanks mate I read that was one other to use as well but seemed to read lots of positives on the esha which im due to start ib a few mins

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