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Tropica specialized on RO water.

Micros are more complicated because of the chelators, even if you know the ppm of each element.
how so? now lets take the Fe percentage of 0.069% i assume that is the percentage of pure Fe and not the chelated Fe no? correct me if i've gone horribly wrong somewhere! If so, how does the Ukaps IFC calculator work in cloning micros.
 
750 ml of Tropica Specialized costs 20 EUR here. How can the costs be similar? The cost of Tropica is at least 10x more if we use Tropica's dosage, and will be higher if the dosage is increased because of CO2 injection and light.
I didn't put it right, just corrected it.
 
Why not?

Micros are more complicated because of the chelators, even if you know the ppm of each element.
Am quite sure my tropica clone is working very well weather it was chelated or non chelated
 

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how so? now lets take the Fe percentage of 0.069% i assume that is the percentage of pure Fe and not the chelated Fe no? correct me if i've gone horribly wrong somewhere!
How will you deliver the Fe (or other element) in your clone? Different brands of fertilisers use different combination of chelators to determine the availability of the element.
If so, how does the Ukaps IFC calculator work in cloning micros.
The same way as it does with macros... it determines the amount of substance to be used to reach a specific ppm. The calculator also does not tell you to use Ammonium Nitrate or Urea instead of Potassium Nitrate, right?
 
@arcturus
Tropica use HEEDTA and DTPA Fe if that helps. They do not use KNO3 for sure, but use NH4 or urea, test kits only detected Ammonium and 0 NO3 when people tested the tropica.

They likey use DTPA and HEEDTA to chelate remaining Micros. For our purpose we do not have to chelate every micro for it to be effective. Even though chelated one are more stable.
 
@arcturus
Tropica use HEEDTA and DTPA Fe if that helps. They do not use KNO3 for sure, but use NH4 or urea, test kits only detected Ammonium and 0 NO3 when people tested the tropica.
Are you using NO3 in your Tropica clone or NH4 or Urea instead? The amount of nitrates in Tropica is not that low (~7 ppm).
 
Are you using NO3 in your Tropica clone or NH4 or Urea instead? The amount of nitrates in Tropica is not that low (~7 ppm).
I think you are converting 1.34 N to NO3 and assuming that its all NO3. But it's all in ammonium form.

Yes I mostly use urea or Nh4 in my aquarium
 
Am quite sure my tropica clone is working very well weather it was chelated or non chelated
Hi @Happi did you break down the cost of your clone vs. buying the product from Tropica... I suspect the savings would be big enough to allow one to buy a second home (provided you have enough tanks, that is) :lol: ... Tropica Specialized is seriously expensive, at least here in the US.

Cheers,
Michael
 
Hi all,
After that, you do the maths and calculate the cost of using liquid fertilisers or replacing them with dry salts. You do not need dry salts to have EI, and you can use dry salts without EI. They are independent.
They definitely are independent, you can make up solutions of any strength with dry salts.

All ions of an element or compound are the same in solution, there aren't any specific K+ (or NO3-) ions from potassium nitrate (KNO3) that differ from the K+ ions from KCl. Nitrogen and potassium are <"highly reactive elements"> that have been incorporated into <"thousand of different combinations in the last 4.5 billion years">.
Yes I mostly use urea or Nh4 in my aquarium
Urea (CO(NH2)2) definitely looks to have advantages <"as a nitrogen source">, the only issue would be the <"rate that it is converted to TAN">.

cheers Darrel
 
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@dw1305

I haven't really tried using this but it seems to be getting some attention. is there a recipe on how much to add to get the desired ppm somewhere so people can try it?
1644948003895.png
 
Hi all,
I haven't really tried using this but it seems to be getting some attention
It is the <"soluble feed"> that I've been using and it is still cheap. This is the nutrient breakdown.
Ingredients: Total Nitrogen (N) (24%) (Ammoniacal Nitrogen (3.5%), Urea Nitrogen (20.5%), Available Phosphate (P2O5) (8%), Soluble Potash (K2O) (16%), Boron (B) (0.02%), Copper (Cu) (0.07%), Water Soluble Copper (Cu) (0.07%), Iron (Fe) (0.15%), Chelated Iron (Fe) (0.15%), Magnesium (Mn) (0.05%), Chelated Manganese (Mn) (0.05%), Molybdenum (Mo) (0.0005%), Zinc (Zn) (0.06%), Water Soluble Zinc (Zn) (0.06%).

Derived from Ammonium Sulfate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Urea, Urea Phosphate, Boric Acid, Copper Sulfate, Iron EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Sodium Molybdate, and Zinc Sulfate
is there a recipe on how much to add to get the desired ppm somewhere so people can try it?
It is a bit unbalanced, because of the high nitrogen content, If you went for the equivalent of 30 ppm NO3 you would need to add ~7 ppm N and everything would follow from there. I've not been <"using it very scientifically">.

If you were willing to <"spend a little more money"> the <"Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4 formulation"> would be better.

cheers Darrel
 
I don't know what tropica put in their fertilizer but i've never seen such healthy plant and color with basic dry powder (KNO3, etc).

For small tank, not worth to use dry powder
 
Hi all,
I don't know what tropica put in their fertilizer but i've never seen such healthy plant and color with basic dry powder (KNO3, etc).
It might be the <"urea (CO(NH2)2) / ammonium (NH4+) content">.

I was sorting out some Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) for @GHNelson last week, and I noticed that it wasn't as green as I might like, so when I was <"watering the house plants"> on Saturday morning I gave them, an entirely non-scientific, <"quick slosh of Solufeed"> (containing urea), and by Sunday morning they had miraculously greened up.

cheers Darrel
 
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