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Twinstar..what is it?

Sounds like they are sorting the water proofing then!!

Great observation but sadly no - that tank is completely separate so the one that corroded was outside on a wall raised above the tank so no idea how water got in and killed it...


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I got those gaskets with my v3. There is no mention of them in the instructions though.
Yep, they’re the ones, and the same, no mention of them anywhere.
 
I didn't 🙁



Is this the same one?

It is indeed Andrew yeah. The little unit was on the wall by the tank with the sticky pad raised above the tank and yet still somehow the water dropped down the cable and inside 🙁

I can only assume it’s due to not unplugging the unit before I took it out the tank.


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If the cord is too short from the doctor to the mesh I did manage to find the correct sized extension; the size you are looking for is 3.5 x 1.3mm but is a little tricky searching as headphone type plugs are 3.5mm so you get flooded with those
I can't edit this post (#837) so maybe a mod will? I should have put 2.5 x 0.7mm I think!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112005075990 I think is what I've used
 
purchased a Doctor 3 couple of weeks ago, was working fine but the "output" from the mesh has decreased to a trickle, there is no calcium build up on the mesh. My tank has very hard water and I dose EI ferts. Any ideas has the mesh got a limited life, if so, how long as mine has lasted little over 3 week.
 
purchased a Doctor 3 couple of weeks ago, was working fine but the "output" from the mesh has decreased to a trickle, there is no calcium build up on the mesh. My tank has very hard water and I dose EI ferts. Any ideas has the mesh got a limited life, if so, how long as mine has lasted little over 3 week.
I read that they don't work if your TDS is over 400. I'm not sure if 'don't work' means they don't come on at all or just function improperly.
 
They do not come on at all in hard water or High TDS water. Work best in 180 TDS water. Found this out by testing the water and slowly lowering the TDS in my aquarium with RO/DI water changes.
 
Bit the bullet and purchased a new disc.

Here's what I have found, TDS out of the tap is 295, the old disc doesn't produce bubbles, new disc does.

I does EI salts and the tank water measures 600+ TDS before weekly water change. Old disc doesn't produce bubbles, new disc produces bubbles as though it is in the tap water.

Looks like TDS has no impact on function, but does high TDS shorten the life of the disc? My original disc seems to have lasted only a month.

Anybody else seen a similar behaviour?
 
Chihiros and its construction over the Twinstar;
I forgot to post these, think they make sense......
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I think I have read On the Twinstar website not to do this.

Think I might have worked or of thought of a reason.

twinstars/Chihiros doctors are just basically 'Electrolysis of water'

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So produce Oxygen gas, Hydrogen gas, H+ Ions and OH- ions

yes we wont the extra O2 gas to try and boost the [O2] but the H2 is potentially explosive if it collects in any volume the canister, so if they advised to have the gases go direct into the canister and 'IF' you canister 'exploded' it would be on their recommendation/advise, so it makes sense they advise you not to have it near the intake of the filter 'Just in case' so the H2 will just escape mainly from the surface of the water, so basically they are covering themselves IMO.

Been using the little mod for a day and the water in the tank is clearer tonight with that milky white appearance of the water you get when using the twinstars/Chihiros doctors has gone

Just an update on the mesh placement so all the bubbles produced get taken in by the filter.

The night pH has increased by about 0.5 pH but the time it takes to hit the target pH hasnt changed ! (I know it hasnt changed as my PLC via pH controllor records how long it takes and displays it on mobile/webpage) 😵 :bookworm:
 
So going my that it seems to oxygenate the water more at night but strangely doesn't affect the drop when co2 is on?
 
So, I've been using the TwinStar brain with the Chihiros reactor for some time now and what I've discovered is that the reactors, although around a 20-25% cheaper than the TwinStar reactors, don't seem to last as long, maybe a few months before they need replacing.

I clean my reactors in citric acid about 1/4 to 1/2 a level teaspoon in a cup of water and I've noticed that after the first month or two the reactor needs cleaning more often. The period between cleans seems to rapidly decrease to once a week and then every few days or so, otherwise no fine mist or very little.

Today, I put my hand in the tank to do some maintenance and noticed a sharp pain in my finger where I'd cut it (read semi-healed open wound)...it felt like an electric shock. Being a masochist I tried again and the same electric shock sensation. Quickly putting two and two together I turned the TwinStar off and sure enough no electric shock.

The fish were fine and when I used my other hand (no cuts), it felt fine also. Nevertheless, the Chihiros reactor has now been taken out of the tank and I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a similar expereince? i.e. a similarly rapidly deteriorating reactor either TwinStar or Chihiros, linked to either a TwinStar or Chihiros brain, or an electric shock.

I'm starting to think that pairing the TwinStar brain with the Chihiros reactor may not be such a good money saving idea after all...
 
Hi Tim,
I’ve had the same electric shock from a Twinstar reactor, as has a friend of mine who came round.

It seems to happen if I have any scratches on my hand and more if I have bare feet. I wouldn’t call it painful or anything to worry me in my case. Haven’t had it for 6 months though.

twinstar advise that it is normal and some people are more sensitive to electric than others. In my case more sometimes!


Re cleaning, I’ve no experience of the Chiros reactors but cleaning my Twinstar. Once I start it does seem to need cleaning more often. My theory is the citric acid etches the metal leaving it susceptible to more lime scale in the pits (if that sounds right).

I’ve had more success with soaking it in a bleach solution at the same time I do the glassware (not as often as glass though). more as a preventative thing before any significant limescale builds up. It Seems to last much longer this way.

Just my experiences.
 
I'm using a Chihiros brain and its on it's second reactor since December. The first one worked well for about two months before I first cleaned it in white vinegar. What alerted me was the appearance of green algae and then I noticed a reduced output from the reactor. The clean appeared to restore it but it then needed weekly cleans as the output dropped off. As a last resort I cleaned it in a kettle descaler and this made it function as if brand new ..........for a day before the reactor died.

Maybe the kettle cleaner was too abrasive? There appeared to be no fault with the reactor wiring when tested with a meter and compared to a new reactor. I've not experienced any electric shock.
 
I tried Vikal limescale cleaner before when the reactor was nearing its end.
Also worked liked new for a day and than died the next!

Well I won't repeat that experiment then seeing as we both have had failures with that method.🙂

Will try bleach next time. What ratio to water do you use?
 
Hi @John S

Don’t really measure it. A good glug, maybe 700ml of the the cheapest Tesco thin bleach with no perfumes to perhaps less than 5L of water ( just enough to cover the glassware in the sink).

Bleach is only c. 40p for 2 litres.

Generally do it when the plastic of the reactor looks dirty. I’ve Soaked for 30 mins to 2 hours again haven’t measured it.

After a quick brush over with a normal toothbrush and a good rinse under the tap, then back in the tank.

Doing this the reactor needs cleaning less often I’ve found.
 
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