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Twinstar..what is it?

jaypeecee

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It's a relatively cheap oxygen generator ?

This product is marketed as a sterilizer and the choice of this word is all-important. According to the Cambridge English Dictionary, a sterilizer is "a machine for making things completely clean and free from bacteria". Oxygenation alone will not achieve this because there is a limit to how much oxygen water can hold - typically 8 ppm. In order to sterilize the tank water, ozone and/or UV-C are the methods in normal use.

JPC
 

Tim Harrison

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I think it's more to do with the principle and application of microbubble and nanobubble technology for sterilisation @jaypeecee, rather than just O2 levels per se.
 

rebel

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How long does it last before you need to replace the discs etc?
 

Tim Harrison

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In a nutshell I think it depends how hard your water is. Once you start having to rid it of limescale build up its days are numbered.
IME the Twinstar reactor lasts a lot longer than the Chihiros one, that is if you twin it with a Twinstar brain.
The Twinstar reactor lasts around 6 months to a year and the Chirhiros a couple of months. Nanobubble output on the Twinstar seems a little better too.
 

X3NiTH

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13 Apr 2014
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I’ll say it again -

Pulse Electrocoagulation.

The Twinstar Brain that Tim mentions is currently still a patented ‘Black Box’ and until someone hooks it up to an oscilloscope it will remain that way. If someone does hook it up then we would be able to determine the current reversal period and the pulse timings!

I’ve not linked any articles on pulse electrocoagulation because there are a multitude of them some come with patents and all are a variation on the other, the most patented part is the Black Box for the current reversal and pulse timings because without that it’s just electrolysis.

:)
 

jaypeecee

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I’ll say it again -

Pulse Electrocoagulation.

The Twinstar Brain that Tim mentions is currently still a patented ‘Black Box’ and until someone hooks it up to an oscilloscope it will remain that way. If someone does hook it up then we would be able to determine the current reversal period and the pulse timings!

I’ve not linked any articles on pulse electrocoagulation because there are a multitude of them some come with patents and all are a variation on the other, the most patented part is the Black Box for the current reversal and pulse timings because without that it’s just electrolysis.

Hi @X3NiTH

I dare say that there will be others, like me, who haven't waded through all 48 pages of this thread. But, I guess you've mentioned the term 'pulse electrocoagulation' before? This is a new one on me but, as I don't work in the wastewater management industry, I'm not surprised. A lot of new ideas are gaining traction here.

I currently don't possess an oscilloscope and, as I'm now retired, I can't just borrow one from work. The magnitude of the current would probably need to be measured too. But, I would question the value of doing this on the basis of the following comment:
Once you start having to rid it of limescale build up its days are numbered.

In other words, these current products are simply not fit-for-purpose. If Twinstar, Chihiros or anyone else is going to make a worthwhile aquarium version of this product, it seems like a lot more research needs to be done. Otherwise, these products will simply lose credibility.

JPC
 

Ash_bash

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7 Jun 2020
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Stoke-on-Trent
I brought the cheaper Chihiros one and its working a treat so far, 3 weeks into a new scape and not a strand of algae, not even had to clean the glass, a world apart from my first set up, wish I could do a side by side comparison with 2 tanks
 

Deano3

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8 Feb 2012
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I am thinking of buying the twinstar nano+ model for my aquascaper 900 anyone use this model and find it helpful ?

Curently have the smaller m5 and seems to have worked well for my current scape.

Thanks dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

Wookii

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I am thinking of buying the twinstar nano+ model for my aquascaper 900 anyone use this model and find it helpful ?

Curently have the smaller m5 and seems to have worked well for my current scape.

Thanks dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I use the Nano+ on my 60 litre - I like it to be honest, I think it’s useful for maintaining high levels of DO (Though I haven’t been able to actually measure that yet)
 

Deano3

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I use the Nano+ on my 60 litre - I like it to be honest, I think it’s useful for maintaining high levels of DO (Though I haven’t been able to actually measure that yet)
Thanks mate so you think hopefully helps to keep oxygen levels up and hopefully prevent algae ?

Think i will get one as i have used one on my 45p and havnt had many problems so hopefully helps.

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

Driftless

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4 Jul 2020
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Chicago-area
I have 2 Nano's and 2 Nano +'s in operation and I have had to replace my first reactor after about 6+ months. I have not checked for oxygen levels but I think it makes a difference with algae and I will be adding them to future tanks.

This is a long thread!
 

Tyeman aquatics

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23 Jul 2020
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Australia
I'm so confused can someone tell me the difference between a twinstar nano and yota? This thread has to many pages for me to try find the answer
 

Wookii

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I'm so confused can someone tell me the difference between a twinstar nano and yota? This thread has to many pages for me to try find the answer

I have both the Nano+ and the Yotta+ - the units are physically identical, and use the M9 'reactor'. I suspect the only difference between them is the firmware, which presumably on the Yotta+ switches the current on for longer durations or with greater frequency to match the larger quoted tank volumes.
 

Tyeman aquatics

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23 Jul 2020
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Australia
I have both the Nano+ and the Yotta+ - the units are physically identical, and use the M9 'reactor'. I suspect the only difference between them is the firmware, which presumably on the Yotta+ switches the current on for longer durations or with greater frequency to match the larger quoted tank volumes.

But aren't they both rated for upto 250L...are they both made by twinstar?
 

Wookii

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But aren't they both rated for upto 250L...are they both made by twinstar?

No the Nano+ is rated up to 250 litres with three settings for 50-100 litres, up to 180 litres and up to 250 litres.

The Yotta+ is rated up to 450 litres with settings for 30-50 litres, up to 200 litres and up to 450 litres.

Yes, they are both made by Twinstar.
 

RisingSun

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18 May 2015
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been using my twinstar m9 for 13 months now. Recently soaked it in vinegar as there was limescale on 1/3 of it. Output has faded by about 50%. My water is very hard. About ~300 TDS after a water change and goes up to 500 in between. The chihiros wouldn't run at all.

I did seem to get less dust algae in the last year but it's anecdotal + there can be other confounding variables (I reduced nutrient dosing, increased light intensity, reduced photoperiod) so who knows if it's actually doing anything. I'll probably buy another m9 reactor in a couple months to replace it. Oxygen can't hurt and I like the mist ∘˚˳°∘°(˘▼˘ )∘˚˳°∘°

ATQnl2u.jpg
 

Zeus.

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Recently soaked it in vinegar as there was limescale on 1/3 of it. Output has faded by about 50%.

Normally descale my reactors every WC, glass of hot water and a couple of teaspoons of citric acid 10 min soak and done, keeps them going as the reactors do get a fair amount of scale deposits. Since I have been doing it at WC the reactors seem to last much longer.
 
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