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Water testing

Joined
28 Mar 2017
Messages
40
Location
United Kingdom
Hi,
What do you all recommend for testing water?

I was looking at the API freshwater master kit, but some of the negative reviews on Amazon seemed to suggest it isn't a reliable test kit.


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Why do you want to test your water ?

What would you do with any results ?

Most people here do not use test kits (at least hobby grade anyway) due to the unreliable and un repeatable results you will get. Using a test kit and basing your plant/fish keeping on dodgy results is starting down the slippery slope of completely over complicating the situation leading to plant and fish issues.

The technical reason is hobby grade kits are notorious for suffering from interference from other substances. For instance nitrate test kits wont read correctly in presence of chloride and ammonia (and GH) falsely reads in presence of dechlorinators. As you don't know what else is in your tank you cannot rely on test kit results.

So no testing required.

Add water, add plants, add fertiliser, add CO2 and stare at your glorious creation. oh and change a large %'of water frequently.
 
I don't ever really sample the water on a routine check up kind of thing.

If you're growing plants you can find complete fertilisers to make dosing as easy as possible.

Also you don't have to use pressurised co2 depending on what plants you choose. You could go without this, providing you're using the correct substrate for instance soil or organic compost :)

Depends what you're looking to achieve?
 
API freshwater master kit myself just so that I could compare an established tanks results with a newly cycling tank to see if it was safe for livestock.
And the comparison reveals zero reliable information.

The OP is advised to abandon test kits and simply concentrate on things that actually matter.

Cheers,
 
Thanks all for the replies. That's very reassuring. Helps me a great deal. I guess as long as I keep the substrate fairly clean and do regular water changes I should be safe.

It's mainly due to wanting a planted tank with shrimp and fish. But don't want to spend a lot of money just to have them go belly up because my tank conditions aren't favourable.

Thanks all. As always super helpful peeps.


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And the comparison reveals zero reliable information.

True but the tank had only been filled with water about a week after a long DSM, cycled the filter with tub of water and urea. So... thought it could do no harm as soon as the nitrites fell which they did very fast according to the test comparison, in went the ottos and amanos.

Sometimes 'you have to walk the path' to know the way, not been that way before you check your waypoints occasionally even if its obvious, it was my first planted tank. Plus I was putting nearly 50 amanos in.
 
Hi,
I think the API kit is one of the better ones, Plants, fish and Shrimps... What kind of shrimp? some can be very fussy on water parms! No I don't check my water that much, but I'd like it to be right when I do, and what do Amazon know about it all anyway.....
 
It's mainly due to wanting a planted tank with shrimp and fish. But don't want to spend a lot of money just to have them go belly up because my tank conditions aren't favourable.

Hiya, if you want to go about a bit of testing I would suggest just getting a TDS meter and possibly a PH pen both very cheap on ebay and reliable enough for what we are doing. i have to assume based on your name that you're in Scotland although you may not live there, that being the case your water is highly likely to be good for most species of fish as in very soft in minerals. Apologies if I'm teaching you too suck eggs because I'm not sure if you've kept fish before but the only real issue affecting adding fish to your tank is going to be Ammonia, Ammonia is very toxic to fish but in an established tank there usually isn't a lot of it about, you only usually get high levels when first setting up the tank until the filter matures so you could buy a product like <Ammonia Alert> to start off with to check if levels are safe to add some fish gradually. We get round this by doing lots of frequent water changes initially for roughly 4 to 6 weeks until the filter and plants are consuming ammonia faster than its getting produced.

Check out the <Substrate> section of the forum, some of the substrates in there deliberately add some ammonia when its new in the tank to kick start the process of the filter without having to do it with fish in the tank and risking their health. If some plants, fish and shrimp are your goal also take a look at <Low tech> section of the forum. The secret is if you don't want to complicate things too much don't use very high lighting over the plants and pick plants that do well under low lighting. Something that's also worth a read would be Duck weed index if you search for that. Basically you add some plants that float and they will give you an idea if you have enough fertiliser in the tank because if they are doing well so should the other plants. They're also excellent at sucking waste products like ammonia out of the water, provide a safe haven for fish to hide and shade a bit of light.

Coming back to fertiliser, if you keep lights low enough you should be fine using an all-in-one fertiliser bought from one of our sponsors in powder form which works out considerably cheaper than buying it premixed from shops, all you're paying for in the shop is 99.9% water and the bottle so if you're a true Scot that will work for you ;) You may also need a bit of magnesium which you can buy again from the sponsors or plain old epsom salts available off the high streets.

The TDS meter will come in handy for certain species of shrimp. Ones like Red Cherry Shrimp are pretty hardy and will tolerate most conditions but some of the more fancy varieties like a low TDS. Luckily for you your water will be fine for them but over time your TDS may rise, solution is just change more water.

Above all don't get tempted by the lights they're not that important in a planted community tank. they're a bit like Gremilins that way :D Other than that water testing is a bit hit or miss because hobby grade tests we buy in the pet shop aren't that accurate and the results don't mean much to fish health anyway. Even the scientists who reside here can't get accurate results with thousands of pounds worth of equipment and a PHD so spend your money on fish and plants, far more enjoyable.

Just to add, when you're good to go get some pictures in the Journal section, it's far easier to help with problems if we can see what you have done from the start and we all like following each others tanks and looking at pictures.
 
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Am I right whilst reading this whole no testing approach, that nobody is concerned with nitrAte levels, even if they could potentially be quite high. I live in London and the nitrates striaght out of my tap are about 40ppm. Therefore putting this straight in to my tank will only increase every time I do a water change. Iv started to do water changes with lfs RO water as I really want to reduce my nitrates. (Purely because he internet constantly tells me that high nitrates can be 'extremely harmful' in high measures).
 
You won't get issues until nitrates are over 1000ppm range. Due to a timer failure I dosed 350ppm for a week with no fish issues. Biggest pain was cost and b*gger all difference to the plants.
 
Hi
Am I right whilst reading this whole no testing approach, that nobody is concerned with nitrAte levels, even if they could potentially be quite high. I live in London and the nitrates striaght out of my tap are about 40ppm. Therefore putting this straight in to my tank will only increase every time I do a water change. Iv started to do water changes with lfs RO water as I really want to reduce my nitrates. (Purely because he internet constantly tells me that high nitrates can be 'extremely harmful' in high measures).

In planted tank the Nitrate is needed in decent ammount as Nitrogen is one of the Macro nutrients needed for plant growth.Many of us dose Nitrates on regular basis.There are few peole on here that have overdosed those in past (deliberately or not)with no ill effects on livestock.
There is one option that high Nitrates unless added may indicate previous Ammonia(toxic to livestock)spike that has been unnoticed and the aquarist assumes that the high Nitrate levels are the cause of the problem he has with his livestock while the truth is slightly different.
Those 40ppm NO3 from your tap will have no negative impact on your planted tank if U have good husbandry and healthy growing plants.U are changing water to clear debris and organic matter that will produce Ammonia.The plants will take care of some of it too and your Nitrates.That why plant and microbe filtration is far more effective than microbe on its own.
Take the information from the Internet and your lfs with a pinch of salt as some of it is a bit dated and far from the truth.

Regards Konsa
 
Hi all,
Am I right whilst reading this whole no testing approach, that nobody is concerned with nitrAte levels, even if they could potentially be quite high. I live in London and the nitrates striaght out of my tap are about 40ppm.
A lot of the tap water in the SE of England is pretty high in NO3. The legal limit for drinking water is 50 ppm, but even that is <"sometimes breached">.
Therefore putting this straight in to my tank will only increase every time I do a water change. Iv started to do water changes with lfs RO water as I really want to reduce my nitrates. (Purely because he internet constantly tells me that high nitrates can be 'extremely harmful' in high measures).
As other have said nitrate isn't toxic until you get to very high levels, but usually high nitrate is the "smoking gun" of previous high levels of the toxic ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (NO2).

Ammonia and nitrite will be biologically oxidised to nitrate by micro-organisms (mainly <"Archaea and Nitrospira">) during biological filtration, but in a non-planted tank the resultant nitrate can only be removed by water changes, ion exchange resins or anaerobic denitrification.

However things are different in a planted tank, the plants remove all forms of fixed nitrogen, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and they are a <"lot more effective"> at this than most aquarium based literature suggests. If you have a large plant mass it can remove a large amount of fixed nitrogen, and nitrogen levels will fall, rather than rise, in the tank.

cheers Darrel
 
So much good information here. Thanks for the responses. Glad I have all you clever boffins to fall back on.

@AverageWhiteBloke - Indeed I do live in Scotland. Thanks for the nicely detailed response.


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No problem mate, good thing about living up here is we get decent soft water from nice lakes and reservoirs perfect for the majority of soft water fish not like our shandy drinking colleagues from darn sarf who have to deal with recycled p/ss.

Test kits will just tell you whatever you want to hear on the day, say it told you that something was high, maybe is maybe isn't, who knows, first thing you are going to do is change some water. Just change some water and have it done because changing water will also removes all the other crap in there that they don't do test kits for anyway and the fish will love you for it.

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thanks guys. This has made for interesting reading. Think I'm going to stop with the RO water changes. Get a few more low tech loving plants and slightly increase my weekly water changes from 20% to 30%.
 
Can you have floating plants? they have access to aerail CO2 and are really easy to harvest

my tank has a lid on it. But there is about 3-4 inches between water level and lights. Is this suitable enough to have floating plants?
 
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