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When can I add amano shrimp and how many?

That’s great news that the shrimps are happier. I think I’d still do another change a bit later on, perhaps 25%. And I think I’d do 25% every day for a little while if you have time.

And don’t beat yourself up if you do lose a shrimp or two; we’ve all been there when sometimes our best endeavours weren’t enough, or we’ve done the wrong thing! It happens to us all.
 
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
That’s great news that the shrimps are happier. I think I’d still do another change a bit later on, perhaps 25%. And I think I’d do 25% every day for a little while if you have time.

And don’t beat yourself up if you do lose a shrimp or two; we’ve all been there when sometimes our best endeavours weren’t enough, or we’ve done the wrong thing! It happens to us all.
Click to expand...
One or two indeed. I wouldn't beat myself up. But damn, when all 20 or whatever were behaving this way I was about to have a meltdown.

I'll do another change tomorrow? Maybe today. I'd still to dose prime and pristine with each change? What about fertiliser? Tnc complete FYI 9ml every day for high tech 200 L tank
 
The majority of them are still hiding, only 4 are out and about grazing.

Slightly concerning. But at least they arent all sitting at the top of the tank or trying to climb out like before.

Not quite quite sure what to do to get the rest out of hiding. I cant even see them, I suspect they're all hiding in the stem plants, so hard to see them inside that. God knows how I will get them out if they were to die.

Snails are super active. In fact I'm starting to worry that they'll eat all the food the shrimp would be grazing on. I have hikari mini algae wafers if anything.
 
Don’t add any extra food for several days - not until you have some idea of the issue or at least it resolves and shrimp are happy and active again
Then add very small amounts of food - you don’t want to trigger a moult when water conditions may be questionable
(during moult and after, shrimp are very sensitive to any questionable water parameters, the moult process itself carries a certain level of risk especially if shrimp are not well prepared, it’s also very energy expensive)

Shrimp are hiding due to stress etc, definitely don’t try to force them out into easy viewing
If shrimp die, they often become more visible as the current will move them (unless they’ve gone under wood/stone)

Did you add any of the shipping water?
Lots of rain perhaps - if tap water source is affected by rainfall/storms - or any roadworks?

In addition to the daily water changes, I’d add a good amount of marine grade activated carbon (Seachem is fine if available), also maybe some Seachem Purigen ( these will tend to bind different compounds)

If shrimp seem to do better after a water change, I’d likely continue with 40-50% but you’re the only one that can actually see what’s happening

Dead snails are usually much more an issue, so monitor these closely
 
For the spray bar, I’d raise this higher so that the holes can be slightly more diagonal into the water, while still maintaining good surface agitation

FWIW I had better flow with both (eheim) inlet and outlet on the same side (while this seems counterintuitive, flow testing showed it was a slightly better circular pattern) of a 90 x 45 x 53cm (high) tank - much depends on your hardscape and plant growth/density
 
alto said:
Don’t add any extra food for several days - not until you have some idea of the issue or at least it resolves and shrimp are happy and active again
Then add very small amounts of food - you don’t want to trigger a moult when water conditions may be questionable
(during moult and after, shrimp are very sensitive to any questionable water parameters, the moult process itself carries a certain level of risk especially if shrimp are not well prepared, it’s also very energy expensive)

Shrimp are hiding due to stress etc, definitely don’t try to force them out into easy viewing
If shrimp die, they often become more visible as the current will move them (unless they’ve gone under wood/stone)

Did you add any of the shipping water?
Lots of rain perhaps - if tap water source is affected by rainfall/storms - or any roadworks?

In addition to the daily water changes, I’d add a good amount of marine grade activated carbon (Seachem is fine if available), also maybe some Seachem Purigen ( these will tend to bind different compounds)

If shrimp seem to do better after a water change, I’d likely continue with 40-50% but you’re the only one that can actually see what’s happening

Dead snails are usually much more an issue, so monitor these closely
Click to expand...
No. I didn't add any shipping water. I acclimated them in a bucket and then netted them and gently added to my tank.

I have purigen and seachem matrix in my oase biomaster thermo 600. About 80% matrix, one purigen bag and filter floss at the very top.

Speaking of which when should I do a full filter clean?

What about pre filter cleans? Filter floss cleans?

I haven't got any carbon in the filter. Originally I was going to do it at the start but for some Reason I didn't end up doing it.

Considering my current filter setup do you think I need to?
 
Also. I think the snails are causing ammonia to go up. Maybe I have too many or?
 
I’m sceptical that living snails have much impact on your ammonia - 8 zebra snails in this water volume is pretty insignificant unless one has died: snails bodies seem to go quite nasty rather quickly - you can always tell a resting or dormant snail from a DOA by the smell (which also clings to your fingers))
 
I hope my cycle hasnt crashed or never even established. I used stability until it ran out. Then I switched to seachem pristine as I was advised.
 
No Oase filters available locally so I’ll just repeat George Farmer
- clean prefilter weekly
- check (rinse) filter monthly

During tank setup I prefer not to disturb the filter too much, but if you’ve had significant plant melt/old leaf loss, then it’s a good idea to open the filter and check, rinse out any debris
As filter is just establishing, be sure to use Prime treated tap water for any filter rinsing

Depending on the type of filter floss, this can easily be rinsed or is better replaced when it appears “dirty”
 
Again, I’d not add the Pristine - is this advice from Seachem?

It’s not a replacement for Stability and has very different bacteria and I don’t really see the advantage of using this at this time in your tank “cycle”
 
I’d add carbon to the filter as you’re seeing issues with the shrimp - they are often very sensitive to copper and other unknowns which may appear in tap water
(eg my City put in a new water main without any general notice, I figured this out after I did a routine water change and all my fish and shrimp began showing signs of extreme stress (and died))

Carbon won’t add any negatives and may remove whatever is causing shrimp stress
Always rinse carbon before adding to the tank, some will release loads of “dust”, some will spit and crackle (which is a good sign ;))
 
I counted the snails. All 8 are in. All 8 appear to be moving.

Pristine was recommended to me by two places, aquarium gardens and scaped nature here in the UK specialising in aquascaping.

Dose stability till finished. Switch to pristine with water changes.
 
I'll add seachem matrix carbon, earliest I will receive goods is Friday due to coronavirus and amazon. Where should it be placed in a filter? At the moment I have 6 baskets if I recall correctly

Right now I have it as so if I can remember correctly

JBL Symec Filterwool
Purigen
Matrix
Matrix
Matrix
Matrix

Perhaps I should also dose stability again.
 
I like both AG and SN :) but I remain sceptical - what do they say the Pristine will do?

You want to place the carbon in “clean” water as any debris will just block potential surface area - while the prefilter will remove larger debris, you may still have significant amounts of fine debris - a quick look through the filter should easily clarify the situation (in your filter)
If that top tray of Matrix looks very clean, place carbon here or in same tray as Purigen depending on space constraints

I usually place carbon after a fine sponge/coarse filter floss and before the final polishing floss - if you check the carbon in 2-4 weeks and there’s any “muck”, then adjust placement
 
alto said:
I like both AG and SN :) but I remain sceptical - what do they say the Pristine will do?

You want to place the carbon in “clean” water as any debris will just block potential surface area - while the prefilter will remove larger debris, you may still have significant amounts of fine debris - a quick look through the filter should easily clarify the situation (in your filter)
If that top tray of Matrix looks very clean, place carbon here or in same tray as Purigen depending on space constraints

I usually place carbon after a fine sponge/coarse filter floss and before the final polishing floss - if you check the carbon in 2-4 weeks and there’s any “muck”, then adjust placement
Click to expand...

Essentially, ongoing maintenance, clarity of the water, cleaning of gunk.
 
alto said:
Then add very small amounts of food - you don’t want to trigger a moult when water conditions may be questionable
(during moult and after, shrimp are very sensitive to any questionable water parameters, the moult process itself carries a certain level of risk especially if shrimp are not well prepared, it’s also very energy expensive)
Click to expand...

Hi @alto

I don't want to detract from the OP's original question but, in a nutshell, what conditions trigger a moult? The implication from above is that food is a factor. Anything else?

TIA.

JPC
 
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