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Why can't I stop getting blooming hair algae!!

RudeDogg1

Member
Joined
3 Sep 2010
Messages
780
Location
Barnstaple, Devon
No matter what I try it comes back it's doing my head in and looks horrible, help please

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Thanks gill dunno y it didn't work. It's 240l 48 x 16 x 22 or 24 can't rem lol, T8 lighting 8 hours a day, pressurised co2 hour before and after lights out thru an up atomiser and I dose PPMD 5ml daily and trace 5ml twice a week (because the iron levels where getting to high and the discus wernt liking it. I'll test my levels later and post them
 
Is yours the tank I have seen in front of the window in your room?

First off, drop the lights to 6hrs. There's no need for CO2 after lights off (which I can't see would cause the algae).
 
No that's not my tank. Also I should of put co2 goes off an hour b4 lights off not after. Do you think taking off the reflectors would help?

Stats at the mo are:

Ph: 6.8
Temp: 28
Nitrate: 20 - 25ppm
Fe: 0.50
Gh: 6
Kh: 3
 
No need for CO2 to be on after lights off, however it is best left on until the lights go off. I was trying to get to James Planted Tank guide on the Interweb but it doesn't want to load for me, the algae guide is superb:

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm
 
Hi all,
No matter what I try it comes back it's doing my head in and looks horrible
I know this will sound a bit strange to most people, but I really like the way the algae streams in the current, it is quite hypnotic. I'd just big it up as APP - "aesthetically pleasing periphyton", it could be the next big thing in aquascaping.

If you can't live with it, it might be worth having a close look at the algal strands, to make sure that it is green hair algae. I wonder if it is actually Stags-horn, a red algae (Rhodophyta), particularly because of the way it is clustered on the leaf tips. Stags-horn is really tough in texture.

The green algae (Chlorophyta) are physiologically close to the higher plants, which makes them difficult to deal with.

cheers Darrel
 
If it is stag horn is that easy to get rid? The only thing that's worked so far was excel then it comes back after a month. Do you think removing the reflectors would help?

This is what it looks like up close
257033B1-4122-448C-A6D8-CAB1EC52FFBA-5094-00000244CC162D5A.jpg
 
You may know this but...Siamese Algae Eaters will clear it in a day or two. I always keep a pair of them in my tank - especially good at clearing the longer filament algae like 'hair' and 'beard' as well as BGA.
 
That looks like and is typical for that planted discus tank: staghorn algae, Compsopogon.
Excel/Easy Carbon will kill it pretty good.

I'd like turn the filoters off and then pour the Easy Carb around the infected areas and leave the flow off for 5 min.
H202 3% spot dosing the same way can be done, do not add more than say 1 ml per 40 liters of tank in any 2-4 hour period.

In organically overloaded planted tanks, classic discus tanks with plants..this stuff is very common.
Tanks that lack frequent water changes tend to get it or have high fish loads, over feeding etc and poor CO2.
Some combo thereof.

Better CO2 management, better general care of the tank, more water changes, filter cleaning, dosing routine etc.
 
plantbrain said:
That looks like and is typical for that planted discus tank: staghorn algae, Compsopogon. 
Excel/Easy Carbon will kill it pretty good.

I'd like turn the filoters off and then pour the Easy Carb around the infected areas and leave the flow off for 5 min.
H202 3% spot dosing the same way can be done, do not add more than say 1 ml per 40 liters of tank in any 2-4 hour period.

In organically overloaded planted tanks, classic discus tanks with plants..this stuff is very common.
Tanks that lack frequent water changes tend to get it or have high fish loads, over feeding etc and poor CO2.
Some combo thereof.

Better CO2 management, better general care of the tank, more water changes, filter cleaning, dosing routine etc.
 
See I very much doubt it's to much crud I Hoover up all poo and do 2 w/c a week  totalling 120 litres a week. I'd say it's a ferts and co2 issue (which I already knew but noone seems to be able to help they just say that's the prob). Drop checker is lime green and I dose 5ml of ppmd every day and trace 5ml twice a week (if I dose more often iron levels go thru the roof and the discus don't like it)
 
Hi Mate,

I have a distinct feeling that you might be getting a reply from Clive anytime soon. If he sees this he is bound to help. 8)

However my take on it is as follows:

1. Looking at the video footage it appears you do have a high level of water movement at the surface. As far as I am aware this will cause the CO2 to dissipate much faster and you will find the CO2 is not as effective as it is being released from the water column constantly. This not only wastes your CO2 it changes the condition of the water (I nearly said chemistry there but Clive will shoot me :lol:

2. Secondly the water flow is passing rapidly across the surface of the leaves of that large plant, this causes your nutrients to be constantly flowing over them, which in theory sounds great, but...there is a thread on here somewhere which talks about friction caused by moving water across a static object or surface, this is where algae tends to thrive. Look in any river and look at the algae flowing in the same direction on the surface of wood, rocks and plants.

I would first of all look at redirecting the flow away from the plants with the algae on, then lover the water level to below the surface of those leaves with the algae on and spray a diluted mix of either Easycarbo or Flourish Excel 10 ml to a liter, leave it for a minute or two then top up the water. Don't overdo it with the amount you spray otherwise you will nuke it like I did. Better to do it a few times over a week or so.

Hope this helps.

Stand by the mighty ceg is bound to come ;)

Steve
 
Lol ty I'll have a fiddle tomoz, I have since decreased the surface movement because I thought the same as u, will have to think about how to change the flow
 
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