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I dumped an entire 100 gram pot of something in my tank a few months ago and nothing seemed to mind! I did get to it pretty fast though. Im sure theyll be fine :)

no big deal at all dont worry :) contrary to popular belief, our tanks can take huge amounts of PO4 with no problems.. in fact, you might see a growth spurt!

it wont hurt you at all :) itll just mean that you wont get GSA on your hands!

I do like whiskey.. but I have extremely expensive tastes. I find the cheaper stuff tastes like Jeyes Fluid! seriously though.. Ive never had a problem with under the tank storage. but if your struggling then lowering the temperature is always going to slow things down.

well my gin never lasts long enough to go in the fridge... ... no wait.. you said ferts :)

125 gallon is pretty huge. Unless you manage to design some uber DIY CO2 system, youre never going to get enough to satisify a medium-high tech system. The 30 gallon, not anything like so much of a problem. I think youre going to have to consider full pressurised CO2 for the large if you...

with that size tank and lighting Id advise to go full dry power, and not bother with TPN other than providing trace elements. TPN on its own, as Andy has already pointed out, doesnt have any of the macro nutrients in it, so youre going to need to go onto dry powder. have a read of this EI...

most things will grow fine, just slowly thats all. Plants like Glosso will struggle and go leggy in low light.. you might just have to fine tune your planting if you see things struggling.

I have a 4x39w over 235litre. I use both banks but shade out 1/3rd which takes me to a happy medium :)

i stick mine on the inside, in case it falls off! its a good way of shading out any unwanted light.. and also if you have shade loving plants with no cover, you can shade an end or middle or whatever you need. to be honest Ive left mine on as its just easier maintenance and less problems. :)

does your arcadia unit have the slide out perspex screen in it? if so, slide it out and put 2 strips of black electrical tape about 1/4 way in on each side.. itll cut down the light by about 1/3rd. Works lovely and wont worry about getting hot.

you have quite a bit there :) might be worth turning down your lighting until you get things singing properly.. thats quite high, itll only accelerate any issues as you get them.

I agree with Dan.. EI is based on a good sized biomass. You can negate any problems with excess ferts by doing a larger than 50% water change, probably 70-80%. This will make sure you fully reset the system each time to cope for less plants. In early stages its worth buying 'weedlike' plants...

it has KNO3 in it yes.. but its quite a low dose solution. As Seachem instruct: to raise 20 gallons by 0.20 mg/L = 0.25 x 20 x 0.20 = 1mL. So for the estimative index target of c.20ppm (20mg/l) you would need 10ml per 20 gallons.. so for my tank (50g) that would mean adding 25ml every other...

hm interesting! all the Seachem products are a fairly low dose product.. worth doing your maths before you spend out.

my only issue with the Seachem trace is that you need to throw in masses of the stuff to be anywhere near the equivalent dose of the other higher tech trace products.

I ate mine

have a look at the dosing calc in my sig :) its very handy :) the seachem dosing schedules I think are aimed at very low tech setups, so are woefully low for our high growth purposes.

go snail dudes!!! i need some more snails, i miss my old ones

Personally I gave up using TPN+ as whenever I have Ive had lots of algae issues.. Id much rather use dry salts to dose instead as I feel as I have much more control over things such as ferts in my tap water.

check out the calculator in my sig.. its very good, saved me alot of headaches working things out.

theyre both practically the same, just + has a small amount of P and N in it.

well done for working all that out peeps :) im going to go back to + again over the normal, and see if i can cut down on the vast amounts of powders i seem to get through with my greedy hygrophila's. last time i used this though i had algae problems, so hoping that wont happen again! lol ill...

the wattage stated on any bulb is the amount of power it draws, not the output of the tube. T5 tubes run alot cooler than T8, which is more efficient, therefore, they put out more light than the T8 equivilent (roughly about 30%). the wattage stated on the Balast unit, is the amount of power...

that should work fine with Tropica PN+. what were saying though, is watch your light levels.. light is the primary accelerator of the entire system. When Tom suggests macro dosing, as youve said, hes suggesting with low light. What were saying, is that your driving the system very hard with...

that amount of light with no co2 is going to cause you problems, especially if you start dosing. Plants can only uptake nutrients if they have co2. You need to decide whether your going to run a low light low tech tank OR a high tech high light tank.. you cant go half way between. algae might...

I concur with Clive.. thats a sure sign of nitrogen and/or phosphate deficiency. Hygrophila's also react very similarly with leaf curl/deformities and often taking on a red colouration. what you might find is that the plants growing well, have relatively low feeding requirements, while the...

ive just requested another wessex water report, to see how much Mg I have.. could be interesting

Ill stop, I have some good records of my tanks performance in the last month since my NO3 mess-up. I also have good photos and a good handle on all my plants, I should be able to spot any differences pretty easy.

I use MgSO4 all the time.. but to be honest, I cant tell you if it makes a difference! I use it cos its part of the nutri-calc recommendations. maybe I should try not using it, to see if it changes anything.

Go for it Ivan :)

interestingly, I had taken out NO3 because my water report said I had about 40ppm out of the tap.. worked lovely for ages until i noticed all my hygrophillia's having serious issues, turned out theyd taken all the NO3 out! so, word from someone who learned the hard way :) ignore anything at all...

best bet is to download the Fert Calc in my sig :) itll list all you need in there, as well as work it all out for you. its really rather brilliant. 40% w/c is fine id say, 50% was always recommended, but it wont make much difference. weve since thought that the original idea of 'resetting'...

just chuck the granuals directly into the tank in an area with good flow.. they dissolve after about 10 mins with no harm done.. the fish wont eat it and it wont burn anything it touches. if you really do want it to dissolve, hot water in a glass is fine, dump it in and itll disappear after a...

you need to work out the equivalent dosing using amounts on the side of the bottles and go from there, I know though that it was huge amounts of seachem phosphates that I needed to get anything close.

which ones are you using? the individual ones such as the phosphate one are so incredibly week for our purposes, Vaughn on Barr report did some calculations for me once on it and basically found out id have to add about 70ml of the stuff PER DAY to come close to dry PMDD ferts.

If you email Andy at Greenline directly, hell be very happy to fill you in. Generally he responds very quickly :) a super guy.

Quoted from The Barr Report: The Estimative Index - What is it? The Estimative index is a simple method to dose nutrients for any tank without test kits. In a nut shell, the aquarist doses frequently to prevent anything from running out (plant deficiency) and does large weekly water changes to...