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Allowing the soil to release its N compounds when flooded is a useful way to cycle a filter, coupled with lower light levels , plants should settle nicely. Although a few species do not cope well with high ammonia.
If memory serves- it was a two week cycle last time I used a soil/ compost...
any aquatic plant soil will work. Stuff from garden centres. Most will raise water hardness though. Thinking garden top soil might be a good choice. Do a forum search on compost- plenty of comments there
You can have just sand. Not too deep though - more than 3 inches can cause stagnation ' anaerobic' pockets. best though to use something under the sand to boost plants, such as soil, compost or planting substrate
my gh is off the scale anyway ! was hoping to get my microdevario in the tank, with some cpd's... it will have to wait, other than that i like the soil, but they tell fibs on the packaging.
i really do like the look of the plain soil. When it settles it does look like a slice out of a lake. Will be moving house again in the summer so this is temporary. Still murky at the moment but.... Looks so natural :) guess i would get the same effect with a fine grade sand as a cap.
so - the pond soil is in the tank, filled with water and a few plants. I like the look of just bare soil but it does stir up very easily. Apart from the clouding and aesthetic issue is there a need to cap the soil?
Re: Low Energy, Water Changes, CO2, Algae, and Pseudoscience
bba on plant tips- one day later co2 runs out. (two months later) bba on plant tips, a day later co2 runs out....
states the ph will be in the 6.5 region, which is ok, i have some serious peat water waiting ( ph 3) so if it does mess around with the ph i will be able to keep it where i want, thanks b.t.
want to make a start on my new emergent set-up, wanting to use a soil base, does anyone know if this westland will provide problems with ammonia at start up? i doubt it as i use it in ponds etc. just checking. thanks guys. :thumbup:
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