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I had the same problem a few weeks ago but now it is dying off and will be completely gone in a couple of weeks.
What I did was the following:
1. Increase light intensity to promote good/healthy plant growth. However, you might already have this so ignore.
2. Aeration during night time.
3...
ok...lets see this from another perspective...
Lets say that the algae was there from before and that the plants grow very very slowly...will this increase the algae if all parameters are good but light is low?
Thanks for the reply Martin but please allow me to respectfully disagree with you. I have plenty of co2, circulation and nutrients...sometimes its the light...you have to accept that some people have lower light levels....I had the grobeam 600 at 100% and had no growth, now I have the grobeam...
Hi Martin...I am guessing is due to insufficient light levels, however we should not diverge from the initial question because this is important.
If I have no growth and this no growth leads to algae THEN there is a chance that my low light causes algae to appear or if already present, to...
Hi
If i have none to very little growth, might my aquarium be more susceptible to algae as opposed to if a had better growth? This might mean that all factors might be correct except light and still I might get algae?
Thanks
Hehe....yes they are doing just fine....what can I say :)
11:00 - CO2 ON - 7.96
12:00 - 6.94
13:00 - 6.75
14:00 - Lights on - 6.60
CO2 profile looks fine to me....and the fish are very happy for 2 weeks now with no signs of distress, eating just fine!
I now have diatoms :)
There are a few reasons that I suspect caused this.
1. The fact that I have lowered co2 a little
2. I have added 3 guppies and 3 otos...had no fish before
3. I have increased light intensity
4. I have not cleaned my filter for 3 months
I am suspecting number 4...is it...
There is no need to have the co2 on after the lights are off...In fact if you have livestock this would be bad...since its of no use to either plants or anything else in the tank I would say it's a must to close co2 either on lights off or half an hour to an hour earlier.
Leave the lights on for 5 hours straight...no need to have a break in between.
Start the CO2 2-3 hours before lights on and shut it off on lights off....no need to have it for 10 hours.
Hi Julia,
you have to find the root of the problem. You have algae and if you remove that algae it will most probably appear again. One way to get rid of it is to dose seachem excel or easycarbo 3x or 4x the recommended dosage but if you have shrimp or certain plants e.g valisneria, they will...
I believe that according to Tom Bar, dosing extra macros or micros is not a problem at all. Furthermore, the ratio of K N P is of no matter if none is limited.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Clive do you mean I should stop lighting the tank and cover it with something to cause complete darknes? For how long?
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Cheers guys,
Yes indeed it is BGA cyanobacteria. I have added more KNO3 to my dosing 3 times a week. CO2 levels are quite high already and I am not that sure about flow yet.
Should I wait and see now that I have increased KNO3 or should I do something else as well?
P.S: the filter is clean as...
The tank is 20L
1. I have lights on for 5 hours 11w
2. CO2 is on 2 hours before lights on and liquid in Drop Checker is yellow since I have CO2 full blast as no livestock in there
3. The tank has been filled with water the past 4 days as before it was DSM
4. EI dosing with dry salts and using...
After 2 weeks of having the lights on a timer for two hours a day I notice that the hair algae is growing more and more...not at an uncontrolable rate but still it would be nice to tackle the problem so I could understand things better. So what do you think? Any suggestions?
Sent from my...
I am trying to understand why would green hair algae grow in a low light tank, with plenty of nutrients and no CO2 fluctuations. What might be the reasons?
Amano shrimp will just not tackle the problem...it will merely remove the symptoms but its a choice....
I believe water changes will fluctuate CO2 contents and this will cause algae in my opinion and according to Tom Barr...
Anyone else?
Hello,
I have a 20L low tech tank planted with anubias and cryptoscorines. I do not make water changes and I just top up the evaporated water. Its substrate is clay based, 4 Rummy Nose Tetras, dosing low levels of EI and the light is NEVER on. All the light it gets is from ambient light in...
Thanks again for the replies. However I am a bit confused. I have to say that with no water changes things aren't as bad as they seem on the picture. Yes there is some brow algae but is it due to no water changes? Please read this article by Tom Barr and you will understand why I am a bit...
Hello,
LondonDragon I think the no water changes part is a good thing since it ensures no fluctuations in CO2 levels. I have read this is a Tom Barr article and I think it works. The aquarium is by a window, it doesn't get direct sunlight but gets plenty of light throughout the day.
Thanks
This is my low maintenance aquarium that has grown brown algae:
It has been running for 2 months, lights are off so just room light, add some macros and micros at the begining of each week. Found aome brown algae and a bit of green spot algae. No water changes, no co2.
Any clues?
Thanks
So let me get this right....if I leave my filter for a couple of weeks without cleaning it, and after that if I clean my filter with tank water....will that eliminate the nasty thread brown algae?
Thanks mate...I will definitely try this don't get me wrong :)
I am just trying to understand how I get ammonia spikes when I have no fauna in the tank. So basically ammonia spikes come from the dead bacteria I kill when running the sponges under running water and from dead leaves?
So what you guys are basically saying is I should clean all of my filter media with tank water?
Should I go buy a product that helps bacteria to grow in the tank/filter, like sera filter biostart?
Unfortunately I am not UK based, I am from Cyprus and I honestly cannot find plants except of a few anubias this time of the year.
I clean my filter by cleaning the sponges under running water, removing the ceramic material from the cannister, cleaning the cannister and then putting everything...
OK I will cut the grass down to the substrate and thus remove the algae.
However I can't get any more plants at the moment...it is impossible for me since there aren't any on the market due to the high summer temperatures and they don't import any plants until later on in September.
I will do...
The tank is over a year old and still I am battling to get this right. Latest change was to add the pressurized co2 and then the atomizer. Complete blackout? For how many days? Wont this kill the plants as well?
The lights are on 6 hours.
I dose 15ml seachem trace elements 3 times a week and 12ml of a solution made up of 100g KNO3 and 20g KH2PO4 dissolved in something less than 500ml of water.
Should i up the co2? The substrate and filter are definately mature. Problem is i cant get more plants since...
Hello,
I think I am doing everything right:
1. Tank 70L with 18w T5HO and 1000l/h filter
2. EI dosing
3. Porus clay type gravel
4. Only Eleocharis Parvula, no fauna
5. CO drop checker is nearly yellow, blasting tank with pressurized CO2 through inline atomizer
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
Hello,
Tank specs:
80L tank
Azoo clay based substrate
External Fluval 1000L/h
EI dosing 3 times macro 3 times micro
Pressurized CO2 system set to turn drop checker yellow since no fauna in tank
24W T5HO
Only flora is Eleocharis Parvula
50% weekly wc
The temperature in the tank is around 32-33...
I now have diatoms algae in my old tank like you. I believe i got it because when i cleaned the filter i left the ceramic media for 2 hours sitting in tank water until i cleaned the tank. Then i filled in the tank with untreated water (90% water change) since i have no fish and started the...
Well no hair algae anymore! Some green dust algae. Didnt increase light intensity. Co2 is full on since i have no fauna. Growth is adequate but will do better now that the co2 is high and the EI dosing amounts have been increased! :)
OK....so the plan is to add half an hour each week until 6 hours become 8 hours....then we decide from there on...
The algae if not gone by all means but I see it is dying off and diminishing and I see new healthy growth of Eleocharis Parvula...
However isnt it a bit of low light 24w for a...
I am adding to water not spot dosing. I have done this for 7 days now without any ill affects on the plants and without killing the algae!
I am sure the tank is 80L and I am sure I am dosing 20ml :)
Thats sounds odd since the algae should have been dead by now!
Hello after a long time,
the problem still continues but that is because I have not tried to do much about the sittuation up until 2 weeks ago and here is what I did:
1. Installed the paintball co2 system with an UP atomizer under the filter intake
2. Daily addition of 20ml of Excell (tank is...
Hello,
sorry for posting in this thread but I thought it would be better to ask my question here.
I have been dosing 20ml Excel in a 80L tank that has thread algae for a week now. I didn't see any algae turn white/pink yet and die off. How long until we see results so we can decide that we...
My dear friend I am not married and I work so I have my own money therefore no need to worry about spending money :P However, thanks for your consideration :) Back to business since I want this thing to work, I have trimmed the grass, installed the atomiser, lowered the photo-period to 5 hours...
thanks for the replies. i have an inline atomizer but never used it. i shall install it immediately. however, if buying a new better filter is the ultimate solution then i will go with that. what do u think?
what do u mean a proper CO2 setup? It is a proper pressurized CO2 with a diffuser. The whole problem is the distribution of the CO2. I believe ceg and ghostsword have missunderstood my question. I have a pressurized CO2 setup, however in the link provided above there is a small electronic...
I will do the suggested changes and inform you.
I was wondering if I could use this electronic diffuser that I have and never used and connect it to my pressurized co2 tank:
http://www.ferplast.com/scheda_prodotto ... m_pagina=1
I changed my photo period to 5 hours and moved the diffuser on the opposite side of the outflow lily pipe.
Moving the diffuser doesn't seem to push the bubble down so I guess the outflow is not that strong.
What can be done if changing the positions of lilly pipes/diffuser doesn't work? I...
I have a drop checker and it is on 2 bubble per second. The fish seem to be comfortable with the co2 levels.
I maintain the tank every Sunday. I remove all algae with credit card and toothbrush but I didn't remove any to show in the picture. I maintain this tank regularly so its something else...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
Hi,
this is the current sittuation of the tank, no growth, lots of hair algae and brown dead areas of the grass:
notice how in the middle of the tank the grass is the healthiest!
This is how CO2 gets distributed in the tank:
This...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
I believe that the brow/diatoms algae is now gone! However I have the following problems:
1. Hair algae is observed to grow on the Eleocharis Parvula mostly situated in the four corners of the tank. I thought of water circulation but a...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
It seems that algae now grows less aggresivly. However the brown algae still continues to grow on the leaves of the eleocharis parvula. I noticed that it grows on the leaves where no direct water flow occurs. I mean under the outflow of...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
Should I add a couple of otos or is it risky?
My kH hardness is between 7 and 8. Is this too high?
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
Hello,
Unfortunately my camera broke and I can't post any pics yet.
The tank is 3 weeks old now and it has Eleocharis Parvula. No fauna.
The tank is full of diatoms algae and a bit of hair algae. Now the glass is covered with green...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
Brown Algae (diatoms) are more likely to appear in low-light aquarium and new set-ups, with excess silicate acids (SiO2). Its been known that strong lights make this algae go away, but they might still be seen on lower, shadowed, plant...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
1. I can remove one fluorescent tube thus decreasing light from 48w to 24w. Should I go ahead?
2. My flow is 900L/h through a lily pipe on the corner of the tank. The tank is 70L so I guess is more than enough.
3. CO2 is distributed...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae
The brow algae seems to still be spreading but at a lower rate and not on plants. The only plants affected are the ones that were planted first and never established. All new plantlents of the eleocharis parvula are healthy and growing...
Re: New Tank - Brown Algae
It seems that the tank also is beginning to have green spots on the glass but also a few threads of algae 1-2cm long that are on the gravel,glass and a few plants.
I have added Excell, reduced the light period from 8 to 7 hours, upped the CO2 from 1 bps to 2.5 bps...
Hello,
I have trouble with brown algae on the second week of life of my new tank. Its now spreading on the rocks and Eleocharis Parvula.
Tank specifications - 60x30x45 70L
Lighting - Hagen Glo T5HO/48W - 8 Hours on
CO2 - Pressurised paintball cylinder
Filtration - Hydro/ 900 L/h...
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