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I do think anubias looks better above substrate though as the root formations are interesting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many times ive planted anubias in the substrate with success. Its only the rhizome that NEEDS to be above substrate

I always struggled with stem plant shaping, but i believe you replant the trimmings amongst the stems to hide these cuts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive bought plants from lots of places now. Aqua essentials and aquarium gardens have been first class in plant quality and resolving any issues that ive had I used TGM a lot in my early days of aquascaping. I love the shop and the videos they produce. I have had a few plants in questionable...

All three flow methods look poor to me. Your water movement will be fighting against each other. Should all be in the same direction Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe the plant is nymphoides taiwan. Google it on images to see if it fits what you see in your tank. I also think that is exactly how this plant propagates although i have no experience with it. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lower light the plant requires less ferts and co2. This is basic plant theory. More light, faster growth, higher demands for co2 and ferts Less light, slower growth, lower demands for co2 and ferts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you read the back of the excel bottle it says to up the dosage for a high light tank. I dose 10ml daily in my 60litre tank. I also inject co2. So my excel dosage is like 200% higher than yours. High duration i mean the 10hour light schedule. Seems a lot to me You have posted saying your...

High light, high duration, low excel dose, no ferts is a recipe for poor plant health and algae problems Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm no expert at i.d ing plants. Not sure on top one. Middle looks to be rotala, possibly wallichii. The bottom again not sure but to me it doesn't look like a fully aquatic plant. Looks to be waxy textured. Again I may be wrong, wait for the more experienced to chime in Sent from my iPad...

I understand. I'm happy with my lighting for now. Flow in my tank is an issue, I know this and I've tried to improve it. The layout of my tank doesn't lend itself to good flow. I've learnt to deal with this though by clever plant placements. For now I am able to up co2 injection rates as my fish...

Thank you Ceg. Very helpful diagram. I need to be upping co2 again then by the look of it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Jose im not an expert nor do i ever claim to be. Just interested in this thread. Could it be that the ammania needs better co2 for this transition phase. Im not talking about 'kill fish' crazy high levels. Maybe the people that have this plant melt on them dont have the required...

Firstly i'd like to state that i agree with Ceg on this. Although not always on how he words his argument. I dont have a problem with this though. Paulo im curious as to how you know thousands struggle with this tropica 1-2 grow plant? Mine grew from day 1 and is a very fast grower. Probably...

The tropica 1-2 grow ammania bonsai worked fine for me The tropica 1-2 grow staurogene repens also worked fine The tropica 1-2 grow pogostemon erectus also fine The tropica 1-2 grow UG completely melted on me. Both pots. I think they are pretty reliable tbh and i dont think you'll get much...

I hope after all this, the original problem gets resolved lol! Great tank anyways Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well light schedules will vary depending on a range of factors. I have a very high powered light on my tank. Kicks out great PAR. Shipped from the states. I ramp from 0 to 80% over 2 hours. Then 80% for 3 hours. Then ramp down 80% to 0 for 2 hours. Even this might be too much though...

Maybe your co2 circulation isnt sufficient? Sure your at the right ppm as indicated by drop checker but is it getting to all areas of the tank I also think the lights are running a long time. 12hours in total. I know that 6 hours of that is ramped. Even so a large percentage of those ramped...