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The key thing here is that you've actually tested it too many people don't. You might want to think about putting the return pump on a float switch, in the event that there's not enough water in the return section to prevent it getting burnt out.

Using the diagram from @Andrew Butler the pump chamber is 9l of water, you need to be able to hold this in the main tank in the event that the inlet blocks, which means that the water surface needs to be 2.1cm from the top of the tank to prevent water spilling out of the tank. That's assuming...

One of the main things to think about is the size of the 'overflow' which then comes down to all sorts of maths around hydraulics. The width of the opening into the filter section (lets call it a weir) along with it's height will dictate the maximum flow rate that can be achieved. Of course...

Not sure I'd like to use that as a stand, you're relying on the fixings holding the top horizontal member to take the weight and not sheer.

Two sheets of 18mm ply, with some 34x34mm planned battens in between, gives you the required 70mm Battens:https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Redwood-PSE-Timber---34mm-x-34mm-x-2-4m/p/9000036468

If you read the assembly guide, the top shelf actually has the best construction for load transfer, I've included screenshots below. But effectively load is transmitted directly down into the legs, with no parts of the construction being exposed to shear forces. It should be noted however that...

Something to note here is that other tank manufacturers also adopt this approach Red See do it on their Reefer range of tanks.

Ok this is interesting, looks like there isn't actually a flow sensor. From the Fluval FAQ "The system measures the water flow by reading the electrical parameters of the pump, and it has been calibrated by referring to a standard application, i.e. intake and output hoses of the same length...

I think the aquastop leaver is just being used a mechanism to enable the flow in a single action, later in the video it's clearly down.

For those in the UK/Europe, currently £41 from Amazon for the Chihiros https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07J4SR5SN/

Ah well, anything useful appears to have been removed by the OP

For those after more info, here's the detailed spec for the 100w unit https://www.ledgrouprobus.com//catalogue/product/sonic-100w-led-highbay-ip65-130lm-w-1-10v-dimmable

New range from Evolution Aqua now available through Maidenhead Aquatics: https://www.fishkeeper.co.uk/eafreshwater Would like to see more detail about what you actually get but could be of interest.

You might want to take a look at the PLC thread here https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/ Of course every solution has it's pro's and con's , the key if you're using any form of automation is to understand the failure state

Quite like the idea of steel stand as well. Interesting that braceless tanks only get a one year warranty compared to three for braced. From what I can see on the pictures / videos silicon work is really good.

Certainly following this with interest, website http://www.aquariums4life.co.uk/ certainly has lots of info, and pictures looks good. Was considering an EAReef Pro 1200s, but A4L might offer a similar system for the same price, but with a few more customisations.

Be interested to see how this works out. I know Innovate marine do a similar 'sump in the rear' design http://www.innovative-marine.com/nuvo-aquarium/sr-80.html http://www.innovative-marine.com/nuvo-aquarium/sr-80.html

Take a look at the following, might help. https://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/cast-perspex-sheet-index.html https://www.simplyplastics.com/catalog/sheet/cast-acrylic-sheet/clear-cast-acrylic-sheet/c-24/c-83/p-203 Obviously you should assure yourself that anything purchased is suitable for the...

Ok, completely different place. The ebay one I listed ONLY does tanks, stands, and canopies, and is based in Leicester.

Oh, eBay feedback looks ok to me. Be interested in 'other' feedback.

@zozo - Thanks. Looks like getting them from the US is going to be cheaper. @hogan53 - Nope still not got that nice flat front face.

Nope not getting anything useful.

Thanks, It's the low profile front I'm after to get as flush to the aquarium glass as possible.

Hi Anyone know where I can get a bulkhead fitting like the one in the picture, ideally slip slip (no internal thread) in the UK. Several suppliers in the US.

Try here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-Made-Aluminium-Fish-Tank-Hoods-Aquarium-Tops-Pelmets-build-to-order/202072210015 Not used them myself, but planning on getting my next tank from them.

I don't think cutting a 'notch' is going to be something that can be done in glass without specialist tools, drills, saws, jigs etc. But take a look at the following for an example tool

Take a look at the troubleshooting page for arduiodroid http://www.arduinodroid.info/p/troubleshooting.html "Pay your attention: library names must contain only basic letters and numbers (ASCII only and no spaces, no underlines and it cannot start with a number)." I see that the DHT library...

If you're looking to retain the connector take a look at http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/din-2-pin-line-socket-with-screw-terminals-fm43w You should be able to attach this to the output of an equivalent PSU

Take a look at

Ok. Just asking the obvious question really. How about as you've previously suggested plywood for the main body of the tank. If you went with acrylic for the viewing aperture you could have a single piece bent to fit without any seams, joins or obstructions. Some pointers for a plywood aquarium:

Are the dimensions on the top drawing correct ? 60+30=90 so there's no space for the angled piece using the dimensions you've initially provided.

I've been thinking about a new tank with the following dimensions 120x45x45cm. Having contacted a couple of tank builders prices are coming back at ~£270 plus shipping of £50-70. Over the weekend I go in touch with my local glass supplier, and they've quoted £150 for 10mm float glass cut...

Failed to mention, I'd like to read it electronically (arduino / raspberryPi) . Original post editted

Hi Folks, This is almost off-topic, but as I use tap water to fill my aquarium it's probably ok here. Is anyone aware of a low cost water pressure sensor that can be used on a house water main ? I'd like to read this using an arduino / raspberryPi so 0-5v or 0-20mA output.

Update from Seneye. Hopefully I'll be included in the beta program and can provide more info. ,

Looks great.

Any chance of some pictures of the cabinet side of the pipe work ?

Don't get me wrong, arduino's are great. I've even taken arduino to the extreme with Max1284 » Bridging to the Internet to create a more cable arduino compatible system with more memory and a network interface. I do see that Pi can be considered as an embedded solution, although long term...

Interesting stuff, I've got some of this in the pipeline too. Looking to move to a modular type system, with overall management / monitoring from a Pi based solution.

I asked Seneye about releasing the protocol and got this response "We have been asked for the protocol a few times but have not yet released any details. This is something that we may release in time. " I don't think we'll see anything using seneye running on a raspberryPi it's simply the...

Great write up. Nice to see all the right precautions being taken with the electrics.

I think you've hit the nail on the head here, long term a drilled tank would probably be something that I'd come to regret. Limitations in the future. I've got some ideas on how to achieve the same sort of effect. More on this soon.

Have you got any pictures, I'm sure others would find them of interest.

Thanks for the wise words Ady, as always experience is better than theory. I was thinking of 4 holes, close to the sides, 2 close to the rear, and 2 further towards the front. As you point out this does restrict the layouts that may be possible in the future.

Great responses so far, thanks guys. As I'm getting a new tank made, the holes would be drilled at the time of manufacture. To pick up on Ian's cons. 2 - No getting away from this, sealing is always going to be key. 3 & 4 , I was intending to use external canister filters still so it's a...

Was thinking about getting it drilled at time of manufacture. But a good point

I'd be interested to hear peoples opinion on drilling or no drilling the base of tanks. I'm thinking about doing similar to the fluval tanks with bottom drilled holes for the filter pipe, ideally one in each corner (for 2 filters). I'm sure there is a list of pro's and con's so feel free to...

Did you get the PCB's custom made ?

Have to say the seneye guys are committed to the cause, I've just had an e-mail exchange over the last couple of hours(yes on a sunday!) with them about solutions to not having to have a PC connected 24/7. As has been commented previously there is something in the works, more details can be...

I've heard that far too often. How about a timer in the box rather than having to plug into a timer......

What would you like an out of the box solution to do ?

Ok, thanks. I'd seen the pictures on the Williamson site previously. Wondered if there was a different angle :) Plans are forming, will put something up when they've evolved a little.

Don't suppose you got a picture of the pump and motor before you put it into the case ?

It is possible to double up the heads. I'll ask them if 3 would be feasible. I've just ordered a single head on it's own to try out with a different motor combination. Could be an interesting little project.

Looking at the suggestion of 25mm into 2x16mm. You need to consider the cross sectional area of the pipe. Assuming 25mm and 16mm are the internal diameters, then 25mm has a cross sectional area of 490mm^2 16mm has a cross sectional area of 201mm^2 This would leave you 88mm^2 short which is a...

Thanks for insight. I think I'm going to abandon the idea of having a drilled tank. I've got some ideas, about something different. More details soon.

Does having a drilled bottom actually aid you, sure, you can remove lilly pipes going over the edge of the aquarium, but surely it introduces restrictions on the layouts available for hard scaping, and similarly could dictate plant placement. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the aesthetics ?

I've read also that only certain filters support this kind of plumbing arrangement, is this true ? Down to water pressure being increased if taken from the bottom of the tank ? I've had more details on getting the base of the tank drilled, Makes sense to me, I'll be looking at using bent clear...

Is it a good idea ? 2 holes, or 4. I'm looking at a 120x45x45 braceless optiwhite tank.

Having visited several local aquatic retailers. I've begun to wonder if a DIY version of the fluval vicenza is possible, using clear acrylic tubes for the filter inlets and outlets into the tank. The question is will it simply be to difficult to ensuret that the drilled holes in the bottom of...

Are people using Aquarium computers / controllers in the planted tank world ? If yes, I'd be interested in what models / features you're using. If no, is it because they're something missing that you'd like to see. Cheers Stuart

Well, the 12mm tube to 14mm problem has been solved. Thanks to those that suggested a mug of boiling water. 12mm filter tube is now fitted to the 14mm fluval tap.

Possibly bad form. But hey. Just e-mail Hagen, about getting spares for my fluval 303 and they're posting out the parts I need, can't get better than that.

It's sounding to me that I should look at getting the 303 back on-line. Hopefully some careful hose selection, some boiling water and a bit of patience will get me sorted. Cheers Stuart

Here lies part of the problem, replacement double taps for both inlet and outlet is going to be ~£20, I'm fairly sure a new impeller, impeller cover and seals are needed thats an additional £20. I agree it's going to have a good volume thought. As I'm reducing the inlet from 14mm to 12mm is...

Thanks for the input so far...... Can I ask what experience is like for servicing, how easy is it to remove the pipes from the filter, opent the filter, and prime etc. Have to say the double taps on the Fluval 303 were just a pain. Cheers Stuart

Going to have to answer my own questions here, perhaps someone could confirm I'm not going mad. I've got a 60 x 30 x 30 tank that I'm planning to setup, I was going to use my previous filter, a fluval 303, however considering the following points - Fluval 303 Flow rate will be too high for a...

Hi, Just about to start setting up my new tank. I've got the following questions 1 - I've got some 12mm glassware, my 12mm filter tubing is a nice tight fit, do I need to do anything to ensure it dosn't come off ? 2 - My current external filter has a 14mm inlet, and 12mm outlet, I've thus far...