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Algae eaters (Amano shrimp and Oto's) don't help much for this type of diatom. Trimming HG while it's just starting? You should not have done that. They are trying hard to build up biomass and you just destroy it. Well, I know there is this info about "cut it, it will grow faster", that's not...

Stagghorn algae.

Yeah, two bulbs without reflectors is not very much light for this sized tank. Sure you can lower the amount of light or shorten the lighting period if your plants are low-light demanding. But for a tank having problem with this light level, there probably are things that can be improved...

The colour looks off, may be because of the light, so it's hard to say what it is. It could be diatom, BBA covered with detritus, cyanobacteria or biofilm, etc. I would try adding some shrimp and I recommend reading this guide: http://tropica.com/en/guide/algae-control/ "All tested zero"...

OK, that should be fine for now then. You don't "need" to add ferts at this stage. But you "can" add some. The ferts you will need will be NPK and trace elements. The Profito contains only K and trace elements.

What is your Caribsea substrate? If it's Eco-complete, that's an inert substrate in my book. You need to dose ferts right away. Liquid carbon is more like an anti-algae agent and supplies some CO2, there is no other nutrients for plants. If the substrate is soil based, there are nutrients in it...

There are chemicals that will kill algae but I haven't tried them myself, except H2O2. Sorry, feel the need to edit.

Yes, try it and see. But 2 T5HO is not very much light. In my experience, I couldn't control it (green hair algae) using just light. Well, years ago, I used to think I could. After an initial success I posted a comment in the barrreport that it was a success. Little did I knew, 2 months later I...

I think it's just right, good choice.

Yes, you can reuse them. By the way, the cyano coming back or not depends on the condition of the tank, regardless of you introducing it or not.

This is probably a filamentous diatom called Synedra. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/23-algae/84947-brown-diatom-id-pics.html When I had it, I searched the internet and found no solution. People with this problem didn't come back to update the threads, or just reported that they were gone...

From the picture, the issue is not major. Just normal diatom on the glass and a little filamentous diatom mostly on hardscapes. Both are normal for a newly started tank and will disappear on their own, IME. Having algae eaters will always help, some say they are optional but for me (and ADA) it...

Yes it is.

:)

If the tank is crowded with plants, it could be fine detritus. But your tank looks quite bare, so it's probably diatom, especially if you can wipe it off the leaves. IME, I don't know how to deal with it except waiting because it came and went away by itself seasonally. I also have some Oto cats...

My bottle collapses, have to remove the head to let air in after using it. :p But yes, I thought of the issue too, just didn't mention about it thinking it might be too long. So this is what I use, the container is always above the water. From the OP's last picture, I think a spray head is...

Yes, H2O2 3% in a spray bottle, spray it underwater, like this guy on youtube: The max I have used was 90-ml in a 340-litre tank before doing water change. Some plants may melt a bit. The ones that suffer the most are true aquatic plants such as Vallisneria and Blyxa.

Maintenance (clean the tank when doing water change, keep things working/in shape, etc.) is very important for a high tech tank. But if the situation has passed the point that could be handled by maintenance alone, the only thing that has ever worked for me: an army of algae eaters (Oto, Amano...

I think when you trim the tops, the plants lose the best parts of their food producing organ. So they cannibalise old leaves to survive and feed new buds. From the look in the photo, either the plants have used them up or they are already being discarded from being too old. I would remove most...

Those plants in trouble, did you get them already in long stems and not trimming them before planting? I mean if you did that, as the plants are adjusting to the new environment of your tank, the old leaves that are not suitable to this environment will be neglected by the plants and will...

Yes at some point we should remove old leaves. And although they can ruin an aquascaping photo but they generally don't look "dirty" if the tank is in good condition. I think the problem in the OP's tank can't be corrected by just pruning old leaves. Because it seems they become dirty before...

Amano shrimp :) I didn't acquire any biggish fish after my Angelfish had died. Keeping those fish in a planted tank is not easy to get the best of both worlds.

I use an air hose to suction them out. For stronger strands, when parts of them are sucked into the hose, close the hose opening with your finger and pull to tear them. The ones that are short or too much entangled with plants or mosses are shrimp's jobs. The above image is from an ADA...

This method is pretty popular among Southeast Asia hobbyists as well and seems to give good quick results. I haven't tried that though in my case.

You started this tank on 7 Jan, which is about 2 months by now. The tank has not matured yet. And you waited too long before taking real action (I mean 1 amano shrimp and some Otos was like doing nothing), giving algae the chance to multiply to this level. 21 Amano shrimp now correct? I think...

Your bottle says 10 volume which equals 3%. I would use it, with care of course. It turns out even a food grade one can still has stabilisers in it. "Our Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide s a high purity, low residue, lightly stabilized peroxide formulation developed for aseptic packaging...

Phosphoric acid is a pH buffer widely used in aquarium. Sodium Salicylate seems to be low in aquatic toxicity, please correct me if I'm wrong (Daphnia magna EC50 230 PPM/24hr, \ Leucisus idus LC50 90PPM/48hr). Both of them are used as stabilisers for H2O2. Buy a food grade one if you want just...

Yes, I've been buying from drug stores. Although H2O2 is quite safe and can be used in the tank in reasonable amount, I would rinse the wood before putting it back into the tank, just a quick rinse is fine.

I would take the wood out and spray it with standard 3% H2O2 and leave it for 15 min or longer if you like. This worked very well for me and there is no dangerous residue. (Green?) thread algae are not very resilient, they just grow very fast.

It's cleaner because the worms gather the detritus to build the tunnels. From the size of the tunnels, the worms are small and probably white colour now. I used to have them before I got Corydoras and Oto cats. The ones in the marks are probably ostracods. I also have them in my tank. It is...

IME, bloodworm's tunnels.

This is what I mean. The green algae in this image are not BBA. Here are some tufts of green BBA. And here is the mix of short green algae and BBA on the same wood. (Image from ryubui's Photobucket)

Yes it can be green but not that kind of green. I've had some tuft of dense short fuzzy algae and green coloured BBA. They don't look the same.

4 weeks, right in the period of algae outbreak in a new tank. That looks like diatom. I would get algae eaters in. http://tropica.com/en/guide/algal-control/ Get enough of them so that the grazing pressure is higher than the algae's propagation rate.

An old photo of my outdoor hairgrass belem propagation box. It was so bright that the surroundings were blown out. Plain gravel, water column ferts + DIY CO2. And yep some GDA, but overall the plants were clean.

http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004/show102.html This one is Oliver Knott's. http://www.pbase.com/image/38632659 ;)

Tom Barr tried injecting pure O2 to see if it stopped algae. It didn't. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200504/msg00021.html I don't remember other threads where he described how he tested. Probably a few factors combined. B12 is interesting, thanks for raising it up.

Since I've replied in another thread that we may have to seed BBA to get it in our tanks. I feel that I've to respond. Have you found filamentous algae in the bottle? IME, I have not. Apart from Oedogonium, I don't see any familiar filamentous algae in the list here, including Rhodophyta...

I think you may need to "seed" it first, if all your hardscapes and substrate are new and all the plants are in emersed form, also the fish are from fish-only tanks.

From the picture, the good news is your plants are not dead. This filamentous diatom will go by its own. You can do water change more often. But I would just keep the regular schedule but I would use a small air hose suck it up during the week to prevent it from smothering the plants (this...

The dominating one seems to be the green short algae Oedogonium. https://reflex.at/~heinz.jaksch/Unterseiten/Fotoseiten/Algen_im_Wassertropfen/oedogonium.htm I've found Amano Shrimp really love to eat it. From this To this May be your RCS like it as well, just not enough in number to tip...

If there was no one messing with your light, it should stay the same as before you left. I suspect it's from overfeeding. I would do another 50% water change.

That's a shallow tank, plus the substrate is quite high, lessening the distance to the water surface. You can keep them like this for very long time (years?) without replanting. Some current tanks in ADA Japan use this technique, such as this one: But eventually, you will have to replant the...

Or excessive biofilm growth from unhealthy system.

I meant the amount of debris. There is very little that it's like he could have just drained and refilled, the vacuuming he did seems superfluous.

Sure. Here it is.

Emphasising too much about CO2, talking into their ears everyday, “That's because you don't have enough CO2”, can lead to overshooting. Bacteria can't do their jobs effectively with escalated level of CO2. Tom Barr's suggestion for BGA is usually adding more NO3. Despite the fact that it's...

How long does it take to happen? If it's within a few days, that's too fast to be from having not enough CO2 or nutrient deficiencies. If it's a few weeks, then perhaps. But if it's several months or a year, that could be normal. Stem plants require you to replant their tops from time to time...

Looks like a filamentous diatom called Synedra: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84947 I had it a few times (not sure if it's the same one as I didn't have a microscope). IME, it's seasonal and prefers strong light, high nitrate. Frequent water change doesn't work, it grew...

The tuft on the close-up pic of HG looks like BBA. But BBA is not slimy. GSA is also not slimey. I think the thing that causes the dark green patches could be GDA or BGA, or something else. Your tank doesn't look very oxygenated to me. It is like organics/waste treatment is not well established.

I haven't tried liquid carbon though. Because I figured it would be too expensive long term for my tank size. By the way, the things I did might have stopped the algae. But in my case, there just might be too much algae to control by those “passive” methods. I had less than 20 Amano shrimps at...

Correction: 1 Amano shrimp per 5 litres.

Green thread algae is the easiest to get rid of by using algae eaters, especially Amano shrimps. I've tried almost all the recommended schemes: Reducing fish feeding: didn't work. Upping CO2: yes, I know it's hard to know if you are injecting enough of it. But it didn't work. Frequent water...

BBA can grow on areas with very strong flow, even on the opening of the outflow pipe. The idea of getting good flow to prevent algae doesn't mean algae can't grow in strong flow area. But to promote good CO2, ferts, and waste circulation for better plant growth. I mean you shouldn't think that...

I forgot... he did not have any moss. :hungover:

I like Mollies. They're trusting (may be too trusting) and funny. But also annoying sometime (pulling plants!) Lovely fish. :) I never have Cladophora but an acquaintance did. He carefully (and patiently) picked it up until his tank was clear of it. That took days or weeks, perhaps.

Thanks for the compliment.:) "How can it grow like that?" Ermmm if you're serious...:shh: By stopping phosphate dosing, in my tank, in the situation like that, which might or might not have similarities to other tanks. I could say that I could influence Oedogonium to suppress BBA. There still...

I read your tank is 54 litre and you also have Amano shrimp in there. But how many of them? It takes me 5 years to learn that I had too few shrimp all along. A 340 litre tank with just about 20 Amanos. After reading Tropica's recommendation about 1 Amanos per 5 litre, I still hesitated. Because...

Do you have shrimp or mind having them? Yes, Amano shrimp don't like eating BBA. But I've followed Tropica's recommendation about 1 Amano shrimp per 5 L and found that their continuous grazing really prevents BBA and green fuzz algae to grow. They also reduce organic debris which is thought to...