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Disagreed.

Just in case you don't know (I see you said you're not so new newbie): a Java fern's leaf that is growing will normally be transparent at the tip. Only old leaf that has stopped growing will be all opaque green. And if you've just put the fern into the tank. Old leaves will often deteriorate if...

May be trim frequency, age of the plant, and light level. I have some wendtii brown. When the conditions (light, ferts) suit them, they will gradually grow newer leaves that are bigger than the old ones. 15-20 cm long leaves are normal if unattended. For the ones that I trim often, the max sized...

Mosses (and also ferns) will only actively attach themselves to a surface when light is adequate. So leaving them overgrown or tying them too thick (in ADA's videos, they always trim the excess after tying) will discourage them to do that. Frequent trimming (to let light through) will help...

The list exists but it's in Chinese and probably uses local names. http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2015/show261.html

You can look at Salt Index (SI). The higher SI, the higher chance to damage plant. There are other charts out there with different fertilisers list. This one is from...

Here is a tip to prune this plant to make it compact. https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/hygro-pinatifidia.37051/#post-399638

It was growing on soil. He put soil on Unzan stones.

That's IAPLC 2015 Grand Prize scape "Longing by" by Takayuki Fukada. If I remember it right, the plant was Hemianthus callitrichoides Cuba.

Potassium Sorbate needs low pH to be effective. That is one of the Ascorbic Acid's jobs. But as I've said the combo didn't work for me in Macros. I'm curious if it will work for you.

If you have liquid carbon (1.5-2% Glutaraldehyde) at hand, try adding it at 40ml per litre. I've not used this but 20ml per 500ml is a popular ratio that people use to preserve their ferts. Then you may wonder if you can use liquid carbon (Seachem Excel here) in place of water in the mix. So...

I've tried using Potassium Sorbate and Ascorbic Acid in Macros solution (KNO3+KH2PO4) many times. But it has never worked. The solution will turn pink and another form of mould or bacteria will appear. I think this is probably the reason: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_sorbate "Some...

Ludwigia repens.

Or old leaves that come with the plants when you got them. If that is the case, the plants are relocating useable (mobile) nutrients from them to help feed newer leaves that are more suitable to the new environment of your tank.

This could explain why some of Mark Evans tanks worked so well (some stems plants showed elongate growth though) with very low light. He didn't use heaters on any tanks.

It seems much. But only 9.86% of Epsom salt is magnesium, most of the rest is water and SO4. According to https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php, if you dump the whole 6 tsps of Epsom salt into you 125l tank at once, it will add 5.57 dGH, which is probably not much in reality if you...

Difficult plants can be easy if their needs are met. I've CO2. I could grow a carpet of it in an outdoor tub with just gravel. I think I just need to move my butt and add light to that spot in my tank. How long have you had it? Is it getting worse?

In my experience, even the mini is very tolerant to low light. But it seems to need more light to spread. Well, wait for others who have experience with parvula.

Sorry for the second pic, the owner said it was Eleocharis acicularis, not parvula. :crazy: http://www.barrreport.com/forum/barr-report/general-plant-topics/12136-what-causes-leaves-to-grow-like-this?p=167416#post167416

When you say "dwarf" HG, there are two types of them: the mini HG (Eleocharis Belem); and the real dwarf HG (Eleocharis Parvula). Eleocharis Belem or Eleocharis acicularis 'Mini' (shorter, more arching) (Image from Tropica) Eleocharis Parvula (a bit longer, less arching) What is the...

It's light (and ferts to a lesser degree). IME, those green leaves won't turn red but the new ones will if the factors are right.

Only have one input here, your Blyxa looks fine, new growth will look a bit orange/brown when light is good. In case you're worried about that.

Ferns, both the Java and the Bolbitis, need cool temperature to look good. The max for Java (while still look OK) is 28.5C, IME. 29 is too hot. 27 or lower is preferable.

Seachem Flourish Comprehensive also contains some PO4. It's actually an all-in-one fert to a degree, just containing less macros than a true all-in-one like Tropica Specilised. So the gluconate can decently protect Fe from PO4, it's the pH/kH that is its weak point.

For some plants, new leaves are transparent such as fern, Vallisneria. Don't know for the one you have though.

I found the ascorbic acid is not really needed to prevent PO4 and Fe reaction. I use it just to lower the pH so that the Potassium Sorbate can do the job (mould prevention) effectively. A good chelator can protect Fe by its own against PO4, I've tested it. And if it can't (and I've found one...

How much was the swing?

Easy Life Ferro only contains iron (I heard that it uses DTPA and EDDHA which is good if that's true). So you still need to dose the micro-mix. And if the one you're using contains Fe-EDTA or weaker, it will still precipitate PO4 you have in the tank, according to my "speculation". That's why I...

I would try changing micros to a branded one, such as Tropica's. Just to test. Then if it works but the cost is prohibitive, I would try to find alternatives later.

Yes, that's my speculation. Now the fact is when PO4 binds with iron, both nutrients are unavailable because they become iron phosphate (FePO4). Other minerals also precipitate iron. Iron is very attractive.

I would like to throw in a hypothesis, your PO4 is precipitated by iron, rendering both nutrients unavailable. Frankly, I've not seen a severe (from the pic it's severe to me) case here or barrreport.com or plantedtank.net can be solved by just upping or lowering ferts, CO2, or flow. Not one.

From the plant mass I saw from your pictures, I can assure you (at least for macros because I've never used Seachem's ferts) that if you're dosing EI, it can't be because of having not enough ferts dosing. Plants looking bad can come from many reasons. Temperature is one of that.

I think it sounds good. And the height of the rock will help conceal the base of stem plants as well. Since the base of stem plants will look a bit ugly and bare overtime.

I think 3, 8, 11 are Rotala green.

1 and 10 look like Myriophyllum tuberculatum to me. http://www.flowgrow.de/db/aquaticplants/myriophyllum-tuberculatum

But Tropica used to stock it? https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Microsorum_pteropus "Microsorum pteropus Red. (Red Java Fern) - Withdrawn by Tropica in 2007 as colour only appeared under emergent conditions."

Looks like Pellia.

Eichhornia diversifolia Eichhornia azurea (anchored Water Hyacinth) http://www.flowgrow.de/db/aquaticplants/eichhornia-azurea Nymphoides aquatica (Banana plant) http://www.plantsrescue.com/nymphoides-aquatica/ Eleocharis Vivipara

Depends on the species, I've found Rotala Green is willing to do this. If the light is strong enough, it will send new shoots from the bottom sometime, even though the light can't reach the base. But of course, your chance will be better if the light can reach the lower areas. Looking at...

In a trace mix, Fe is the element that is needed in the highest amount. And Cu is the most toxic element to aquatic animals and plants. So the ratio of Fe and Cu is an important factor to consider when looking at a trace mix to use. If the Cu is too high compared to Fe, you may reach Cu...

I think they might be DTPA. Since most Fe-EDTA powder are 13%. I personally use DTPA 7%. There is also DTPA 11% but it's not available in my area. DTPA performs better than EDTA in hard water but the colour is stronger than EDTA. It will stain your tank water a bit (brownish-green) but no where...

For low GH water, if you have TNC GH Boost, I would weight a 1tsp amount of it and divided the result with 100 (from 1tsp/100 litres by instruction). The result is dosage per litre that I would use with the replacement water when you do water change. Not the refilled water you add to compensate...

That was the same experience as mine with HZ.

Chloramine can make water look green. "While the photograph of the pool looks like it may contain an algal growth, it actually is the case that very dilute aqueous solutions of monochloramine have a distinct greenish-yellow cast." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3AChloramine But you...

I think mine is Tenellus, some of them are more than 6 years old, looking somewhat like oil palm trees.

No, it's smaller. People call it "mini glosso". It's actually a different species from the Glosso.

Elatine Hydropiper

I have the Green sp. variety but had the stunting problem (the nodes became shorter and the tip got smaller) only when: - I dosed not enough trace elements - I ran out of CO2. - my tank had chronic cyanobacteria problem. - the base stems were too old. BTW, my water: GH 3-5, KH 0.5-3.

Yes, but I still feel uncomfortable thinking about eating them (submersed aquatic plants) uncooked even though they are not from my tank. By the way, Blyxa Japonica is edible, according to: ftp://taurus2.caf.dlr.de/put/leinenkugel/MekongBasin_thematic/Kosaka2006.pdf (I looked at its Google's cache)

Hmm, I think it's not limited to still water swamps. This image is from the Da Prata River, full of this plant. It seems the flow is quite good (gentle flow, not still). Full reading here...

Although this plant is found in its habitat, it is quite rare in nature, not an usual sight. I don't know if the buoys are only developed when the water is too deep or not. But it looks more right without the buoys. Like this Betta fish are found in areas filled with dense grass stems from...

I've an impression that you're after some biotope looks. If that is the case, this choice looks too temperate and too "tidy". Try a broader leaf types, like reed canary grass. http://www.wetlandplants.co.uk/acatalog/info_M0720.html (this one is probably too tall though). The places where you...

These wetland grasses are found in their natural habitat; Hymenachne pseudointerrupta, Leersia hexandra.

They both will grow upon themselves. HG can become a thick layer that you can roll up like a lawn turf. I've also seen a pile of Tenellus reaching water surface.

I think the length of most stem plants can't be determined accurately. Tropica generally list the length information as "Average height (cm) of the plant after two months in the tank." Because when they reach the surface, they just grows along under the surface until the water current or...

Algae appearing too soon is probably because of too long lighting period. Even ADA waits until day 15th to turn on the light full time (8-10 hrs). From their maintenance guide: Setup day: 0 hr 2nd-3rd : 4 hrs 4th-5th : 5 hrs 7th-14th: 6 hrs For the melting problem, don't take this as an...

Yours are still in emersed form.

Juncus Repens, perhaps, for the first plant. http://www.flowgrow.de/db/aquaticplants/juncus-repens

How about Hygrophila Pinnatifida? http://www.venividivissie.org/viewtopic ... 60&t=42841