25L Betta tank, first go at a "scape"

[Nick potts]

Though I would start a journal, good way of looking back at growth etc.

The tank is currently in the planning phase, I have started on the hardscape and I am pretty happy with it so far

Tank: 40cm 25l
Hardscape: Bogwood and possibly some seiryu stone
Substrate: Tropica plant growth substrate topped with black sand
Lighting: Fluval Nano LED 6.5W
Filter: 600LPH HOB
Co2: None at the minute
Heating: 25w

Plants:
Eleocharis Acicularis 'Mini'
Java fern narrow
Java moss
Crypts
Echinodorus'Reni'
buces/anubius

Plants above aren't 100% set in stone and happy to change as needed.

Livestock:
Single Betta Splendens, I may add some cherry shrimp at a later date.

A couple of questions, does anyone see any issues that stand out? Do you think the light i have will be good enough (mainly for the Eleocharis) ?

Sorry for the rubbish pic, I have since removed the rocks and welcome any tips/thoughts on the scape.

 

[Siege]

Nice.

will look even better if you move the wood forward.p quite a bit.

it will give you more room for planting at the back and will add depth.

move it and see what you think. You find at one point it will ‘pop’!

 

[Nick potts]

Nice.

will look even better if you move the wood forward.p quite a bit.

it will give you more room for planting at the back and will add depth.

move it and see what you think. You find at one point it will ‘pop’!

Thank you.

I does look rather flat in the picture but does jut out into the middle of the tank but I see what you are saying.

I'll have a jiggle about and take some better pictures.

 

[Siege]

Hardscape too far back is the most common ‘error’, even when you read high end competition judges comments. It comes up time and again.

Photos are good.

arrange it how you think it looks best. Then look at a photo. You’ll see bits that need adjusting.

It’s always weird!

 

[Harry H]

Also think about where the filter will go, where the heater will be, in a small tank it can be an eye sore, or can be hidden behind some stems.

Another thing to consider is the flow. Some Bettas ok with medium flow, my plakat used to love it, but new one hates as he is full moon with full curtains. You want the optimum flow as possible as always.

 

[Nick potts]

Thanks for all the tips guys, really appreciated

I'm going to revise it this evening.

My betta is a dumbo ear, she is ok with flow but I should be able to balance water movement and strong flow.

 

[Matt @ ScapeEasy]

You don’t really have any fast growing plants to mop up the initial high nutrient levels after you flood the tank. This will be really useful in helping limit algae etc for you. See below for more info on this:
https://tropica.com/en/guide/get-the-right-start/supporting-plants/

 

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Also think about where the filter will go, where the heater will be, in a small tank it can be an eye sore, or can be hidden behind some stems..

For my 25 litre nano, I’ve kept every possible piece of equipment outside the tank. I’ve used an external canister filter (Eheim Classic 150), and an external Hydor heater*. The CO₂ diffuser is an external inline one. So the only equipment inside the tank is stuff for which there’s no alternative: the drop checker, a glass siphon tube for the filter and a DIY spray bar made out of clear acrylic tubing. Oh, and the Twinstar M3, hidden at the back with its ugly white cable routed through some black tubing.

The inside of the cabinet underneath does look a bit like a power station control room, though! 🙂

* The problem with the external heater is that they’re only available in Wattages that would boil the tank if the thermostat stuck on, so I drive the heater using an STC-1000 temperature controller. If the controller fails “on” then the heater’s own thermostat will cut out just a degree higher. The controller also has an output for a cooler, so I could rig up a PC fan to provide evaporative cooling if I feel it necessary.

 

[Nick potts]

You don’t really have any fast growing plants to mop up the initial high nutrient levels after you flood the tank. This will be really useful in helping limit algae etc for you. See below for more info on this:
https://tropica.com/en/guide/get-the-right-start/supporting-plants/

Thanks Matt, although i didn't put them in the list above, i do have Limnophila sessiliflora, Elodea densa and Salvinia auriculata in the tank for this reason

 

[Nick potts]

For my 25 litre nano, I’ve kept every possible piece of equipment outside the tank. I’ve used an external canister filter (Eheim Classic 150), and an external Hydor heater*. The CO₂ diffuser is an external inline one. So the only equipment inside the tank is stuff for which there’s no alternative: the drop checker, a glass siphon tube for the filter and a DIY spray bar made out of clear acrylic tubing. Oh, and the Twinstar M3, hidden at the back with its ugly white cable routed through some black tubing.

The inside of the cabinet underneath does look a bit like a power station control room, though! 🙂

* The problem with the external heater is that they’re only available in Wattages that would boil the tank if the thermostat stuck on, so I drive the heater using an STC-1000 temperature controller. If the controller fails “on” then the heater’s own thermostat will cut out just a degree higher. The controller also has an output for a cooler, so I could rig up a PC fan to provide evaporative cooling if I feel it necessary.

While I can see the top of the HOB most of the equipment in the tank is hidden quite well, it was a challenge as i am used to sumped systems.