Algae ID

[Tsigania]

Hi all, this is I think my very first post. First of all let me apologize on advance for my english. I am currently having trouble trying to get rid of this algae, nothing much to my taste but really looks unsighty over plants leaves.
Here are the specs:
70x40x30 cm / 84 litres.
Lighting - grolux and 840 tubes, 36 w total - 9 hours a day
CO2 - None
Filtration - Eheim Lyberty 150 (500 or so L/H
Fertilisation routine - All in one product, local brand

Here is the pic

A general look of the tank:

Bolbitis look somewhat dark on the tips:

Some algae on the wood:

Greetings from Buenos Aires, Javier.

 

[ceg4048]

Hola Javier,
This algae is called Green Spot Algae (GSA). It is related to low CO2 as well as low Phosphate. Since you have a non-CO2 tank then I cannot suggest that you improve your CO2.

There are only two possible repair action:

1. Less light
2. More Phosphate

In this case we don't really know whether the problem is CO2 or PO4 so the best plan of attack is to reduce the lighting and try adding more PO4. We cannot analyze your fertilization product unless we know what it contains. Can you be more specific about it's contents?

Cheers,

P.S. Please also update your profile to show your location.

 

[scifficus]

From what I see you have there some microsorum pteropus and cladophora aegagropila. Both consume pretty much PO4. So, your problem will be solved if you aim a level of 0,6 - 1,0 ppm PO4 with 10 -15 ppm NO3. And the light, the time is ok but you must change the 840 with a 865 or 965 tube.

 

[ceg4048]

... And the light, the time is ok but you must change the 840 with a 865 or 965 tube.

Hi,
The bulb types are not relevant. It is more important to avoid having too much intensity. What colour the bulbs are will not help solve the problem.

Cheers,

 

[Tsigania]

Hi,
Ceg the profile is updated!
I can try having less light than that by just leaving one tube running, the 840 for example.
Regarding PO4... shame on me, the All-in-one doesn't have it in the formula.
Instead it has:
Fe 0,08
K 1
Mg 0,5
Mn 0,04
Mo 0,03
Zn 0,02
Cu 0,0025
B 0,0075
S 1,2
Co 0,0003
I 0,0005
Being this grams/liters

Greetings, Javier.

 

[ceg4048]

Hi Javier,
Thanks for that. Yes, you can see that this is just a micronutrient mix. It is possible that your tap water has macronutrients, but you may simply need a little bit more.

I would definitely use a single bulb until the problem is solved. The growth rate of all the plants will slow down but algae will also slow down.

I know Argentina grows a lot of beef on The Pampas, so that means your farmers probably also use NPK. It should not be difficult to find.

Cheers,

 

[Tsigania]

Hi Javier,
Thanks for that. Yes, you can see that this is just a micronutrient mix. It is possible that your tap water has macronutrients, but you may simply need a little bit more.

I would definitely use a single bulb until the problem is solved. The growth rate of all the plants will slow down but algae will also slow down.

I know Argentina grows a lot of beef on The Pampas, so that means your farmers probably also use NPK. It should not be difficult to find.

Cheers,

Hi Ceg,
I will start dosing KH2PO4 to raise the the phosphates to the PPM advised by scifficus. I assume this level is lower because mine is a non co2 tank, low light, etc and also that this level is PPM per week?
Greetings,
Javier.

 

[ceg4048]

Hi Javier,
Non-CO2 tanks do not require nearly as much nutrition as enriched tanks do, however, I caution you against trying to match any specific PPM level. You definitely don't need any test kits. You need only enough NPK to keep the plants healthy and to reduce/eliminate algae. Whatever PPM level achieves this is not really important because each tank will require it's own unique set of values.

For non-CO2 tanks the suggested starting point is 1/8 teaspoon (about 1 gram) KNO3 and 1/32 teaspoon (about 0.2 gram) KH2PO4 per 20 gallons once a week or once every two weeks. An 80L tank is 20 gallons, so this is easy.

Try adding this amount once per week in addition to your local micronutrient product and see how the plants respond.

Also, I assume that this really is a non-CO2 tank, because if you are adding Excel or any other type of liquid carbon then this assumption is false.

Cheers,

 

[Tsigania]

Hi Javier,
Non-CO2 tanks do not require nearly as much nutrition as enriched tanks do, however, I caution you against trying to match any specific PPM level. You definitely don't need any test kits. You need only enough NPK to keep the plants healthy and to reduce/eliminate algae. Whatever PPM level achieves this is not really important because each tank will require it's own unique set of values.

For non-CO2 tanks the suggested starting point is 1/8 teaspoon (about 1 gram) KNO3 and 1/32 teaspoon (about 0.2 gram) KH2PO4 per 20 gallons once a week or once every two weeks. An 80L tank is 20 gallons, so this is easy.

Try adding this amount once per week in addition to your local micronutrient product and see how the plants respond.

Also, I assume that this really is a non-CO2 tank, because if you are adding Excel or any other type of liquid carbon then this assumption is false.

Cheers,

Hi Ceg,
Yes this is a complete non Co2 tank.
I started dosing KNO3 and KH2PO4 last Sunday. Changed my micronutrient product for CSM+B.
So far no great change, plants seem to be fine. GSA look pretty much the same. No new algae.
I was thinking... should I increase the dose next Sunday? should I just give it more time?

Regards!

 

[Tsigania]

By the way, I don't know if dosing helped but Serpaes started spawning yesterday...

 

[ceg4048]

Hi mate,
Difficult to draw a connection between the two from a positive standpoint, but this evidence indicates that there aren't any negative effects, right?

Increased nutrition has a positive effect on photosynthesis which then produces a higher dissolved oxygen level in the water. This increased oxygen is now available to fish as well as to nitrifying bacteria.

I'll be willing to bet that hypoxia is least is a strong factor in the decline of fish health and that increasing the oxygen level allows fish to do more than just survive.

Cheers,

 

[Tsigania]

Hi mate,
Difficult to draw a connection between the two from a positive standpoint, but this evidence indicates that there aren't any negative effects, right?

Increased nutrition has a positive effect on photosynthesis which then produces a higher dissolved oxygen level in the water. This increased oxygen is now available to fish as well as to nitrifying bacteria.

I'll be willing to bet that hypoxia is least is a strong factor in the decline of fish health and that increasing the oxygen level allows fish to do more than just survive.

Cheers,

I think you didn't read my questions!

Regarding fertilization:
"I was thinking... should I increase the dose next Sunday? should I just give it more time"

About the spawning... might be possible. Let me tell you serpaes display amazing colors when breeding!

Greetings!

 

[ceg4048]

Algae doesn't always just disappear automatically just because you increase the dosage.

Did you remove the leaves that were infected? Did you remove it from the wood?

You must describe what you do with more precision because we cannot observe what you are doing. How much did you dose? How long have you been dosing? Are different leaves becoming infected? Are young leaves becoming infected, or is it only the mature leaves?

Cheers,

 

[Tsigania]

Hi,
I removed the infected and old leaves, But just lef the wood as it was.
I dosed 1 gram KNO3 and 0.2 gram KH2PO4 once a week. I started dosing 2 weeks ago.
Didn´t do any water change (no CO2 tank)
New leaves are not infected its only mature leaves.

Greetings, Javier.

 

[ceg4048]

OK, thanks for the additional information. It's a good idea to remove it from the wood as well. You can use a toothbrush to dislodge it and then siphon out the debris. Continue this and see if things improve in a few more weeks.

Cheers,