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Low tech, no co2, sump...
- Thread starter LondonDragon
- Start date
JanOve
Member
Its simply a glasstank with a schuran multifilter which comprises the biological and mechanical filtering and a return pump which also doubles as Co2 reactor.
Interesting:
never seen these type of filters before. I assume you have an Weir box as standard and could easily add another pump in there or another multifilter is necessary.
never seen these type of filters before. I assume you have an Weir box as standard and could easily add another pump in there or another multifilter is necessary.
JanOve
Member
a1Matt said:
Its a standard external durso, with a small twist to it. A smaller tube is inserted inside the large 40mm hose, this smaller tube is full siphon. The benefits are a 100% silent overflow with no splashing. Should the smaller tube clog the large one is a safeguard against flooding.
JanOve
Member
LondonDragon said:
The filterype is quite common with reefers, can actually be used outside the sump aswell.
Interesting, so this can be used as an external filter? How expensive are they in comparison?JanOve said:
Kosh42-EFG
Member
- Joined
- 10 Jul 2007
- Messages
- 201
First I've heard of themJanOve said:
But I have been out of the reef scene for a few years...
Hi all,
They (the Schuran 100 multifilters) are quite expensive. You can make a much cheaper quiet trickle filter by using a column, packed with biomedia. I used drainpipe packed with "alfagrog" or "hydroleca" sat on a mesh in the sump, but a bucket with a lid and holes in the bottom filled with pan scrubbers and sat on bricks would have done. You need to vent the column/bucket, even if you are attempting to restrict gas exchange, and tall towers are much better than short towers.
You also need a drip plate, I used a 2 litre container pot (it fitted snugly in the drainpipe), but you can make one from plastic , the important thing is that the holes around the perimeter are larger diameter than those in the inner area. The advantage of the pot was that you can fill it with coarse foam as your mechanical pre-filter if you don't want a sponge in the tank. I also built a baffle into the sump to isolate the pump (usually a maxijet), but that isn't really necessary. The other thing I found was that the overflow from the tank needs to be less than 1/2 of the diameter of the outflow from the bottom of the filter, or flooding is likely.
I stopped using them because I went over to the over-tank planted trickle filters, these are even more effective in terms of producing highly oxygenated, very clean water, even when you start with grossly polluted "water" with a very high BOD (I wanted to remove as much nitrate as possible, which is one advantage of the planting, if I hadn't wanted to remove it, I would have stuck with the sump version).
Have a look at this <http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/trickle-filter.shtml> or this <http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-filter/111.asp> it explains the bits you need to know ,this link also has some criticism of the latter design <http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/diy/55805-looking-diy-wet-dry-trickle-filter.html>.
This is another variation on a theme. <http://www.theoscarspot.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20243>
cheers Darrel
They (the Schuran 100 multifilters) are quite expensive. You can make a much cheaper quiet trickle filter by using a column, packed with biomedia. I used drainpipe packed with "alfagrog" or "hydroleca" sat on a mesh in the sump, but a bucket with a lid and holes in the bottom filled with pan scrubbers and sat on bricks would have done. You need to vent the column/bucket, even if you are attempting to restrict gas exchange, and tall towers are much better than short towers.
You also need a drip plate, I used a 2 litre container pot (it fitted snugly in the drainpipe), but you can make one from plastic , the important thing is that the holes around the perimeter are larger diameter than those in the inner area. The advantage of the pot was that you can fill it with coarse foam as your mechanical pre-filter if you don't want a sponge in the tank. I also built a baffle into the sump to isolate the pump (usually a maxijet), but that isn't really necessary. The other thing I found was that the overflow from the tank needs to be less than 1/2 of the diameter of the outflow from the bottom of the filter, or flooding is likely.
I stopped using them because I went over to the over-tank planted trickle filters, these are even more effective in terms of producing highly oxygenated, very clean water, even when you start with grossly polluted "water" with a very high BOD (I wanted to remove as much nitrate as possible, which is one advantage of the planting, if I hadn't wanted to remove it, I would have stuck with the sump version).
Have a look at this <http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/trickle-filter.shtml> or this <http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-filter/111.asp> it explains the bits you need to know ,this link also has some criticism of the latter design <http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/diy/55805-looking-diy-wet-dry-trickle-filter.html>.
This is another variation on a theme. <http://www.theoscarspot.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20243>
cheers Darrel
OllieNZ
Member
Here is a quick drawing of my propsed set up(side view)
The plan is to use 2 plastic containers and silicone in bits of arcylic to make the wier, supports for the media trays and the trays themselves. the top tray will also be the diffuser plate.
The hardest part has been finding the right size containers
Regards
Ollie
The plan is to use 2 plastic containers and silicone in bits of arcylic to make the wier, supports for the media trays and the trays themselves. the top tray will also be the diffuser plate.
The hardest part has been finding the right size containers
Regards
Ollie
