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Seachem prime vs safe

Mattant1984

Member
Joined
13 Jun 2022
Messages
417
Location
Canterbury Kent
Hi all, been using Seachem prime for years but just been looking at seachem safe as an alternative, my tank is 700 litres and safe looks like it lasts longer??
Anyone on here got Experience with safe and is it easy to use being a powder??

Many thanks
 
You can use it as an alternative but because it is so concentrate, you need to be careful. It is really only as good as the accuracy of your scales because I don't think you want to overdose it. It works better with large tanks but I'd check you are able to measure the small quantities needed first because some accurate scales will suck up the savings of at least the first bottle of prime.
 
Hi all,
I've also heard that safe doesn't detoxify heavy metals, would this be an issue??
I'm going to say they are <"the same compound, but one in solution and one as dry powder?"> Hopefully some-one else will know.
........ SeaChem Prime and SeaChem Safe are <"sodium dithionite"> .........
I'm not a tap water user, so <"don't use a dechlorinator">. As an aside <"I really enjoyed"> the Aquarium Science "Seachem Prime" page comment.
..........Note that I admit I am decidedly biased against the Seachem Company. I can’t help it. The amount of “pseudoscientific bedazzlement” they put out on ALL their products is just nauseating. They mix real science in with simply impossible “snake oil” claims in a manner which is very misleading to “newbies” in the hobby. And they have threatened to sue me for “libel”. So the dislike is mutual. ...........
In terms of your tap water, it isn't an issue, because you wont't have any heavy metals. If you have hard water you won't get any heavy metal ions in solution, because,
cheers Darrel
 
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Thanks Darrel, so if I don't need to worry about heavy metals I think Safe would be a better option for my tank size
 
Hi all,
Darrel how would heavy metals affect an aquarium if they were not removed??
It would depend on the metal, the water hardness and the livestock. If you get a <"complete and rapid kill"> it is much more likely to be a <"pesticide residue"> rather than metal content. Heavy metal effects are often first seen in the nervous system <"with erratic swimming"> etc.

Metal:
Heavy metals vary widely in their toxicity, in general terms <"the heavier they"> are (<"in terms if their RAM") the more likely they are to be highly toxic and have no biological activity, so that is cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb) and mercury (Hg) are in the <"really nasty biocide"> pile. I'm going to ignore cadmium (Cd) and mercury (Hg) on the grounds that you are pretty unlikely to find them in your water, and any lead (Pb) is already being dealt with.

Zinc (Zn), nickel (Ni) and copper (Cu) are a little bit different in that they are all micro-elements, but toxic at higher levels of availability. You could also include <"iron (Fe) in this group">.

Water:
Hard water reduces or removes any (and all) of these issues. Any heavy metal ions in solution are mopped up and precipitate out of the water column. Soft, or most specifically very acid, water will keep these ions in solution and in <"wastewater treatment"> acid, metal rich water <"from old mines etc."> is really difficult to treat.

Livestock:
For example <"copper (Cu) is much less toxic to fish"> than it is to snails or shrimps.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,
your knowledge is incredible!!
You should ask my wife. What ever the question I ask is I can guarantee the answer will be "you are looking in the wrong cupboard!"

It is not really knowledge, <"some of it is a good memory"> and also having been on the <"forum for a long time">, and some more of it is because <"dealing with polluted"> water was (and still is, to a lesser degree) <"part of my day job">.

In more recent years I've done more <"with "cleaner" water">, which <"has also helped"> me see the whole picture a bit more clearly.

cheers Darrel
 
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