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substrate for hill building

critch

critch

Member
Joined
27 Nov 2009
Messages
73
Location
Bury, Lancashire
Okay I will try my best to describe this.

I have a sand substrate in my tank which I plan on keeping in 2/3 of the tank, it's about an inch deep,
Now in the back corner of the tank the other 3rd is going to be built into a hill up around 2 peices of wood, going front to back 15 inches rasing to a height of 5 inches,
Then right to left 18 inches rasing to the same 5 inches..

So I hope you all get the idea,
Now what substrate can I use to make this mound, that
1, will not leach ammonia
2, too expensive think I need about 6-7 ltrs
3, will subside around the tank,
4, ability to grow plants planning on a carpet of some sort,
5, will not cloud the water when disturbed by my Corys

Thanks for your ideas
 
If you want carpeting plants then I strongly suggest that you use some sort of active substrate, the problem with most of these aquarium soils is that they dump ammonia for about 3 weeks; not all do. Otherwise think about a coarse sand or small gravel; not as good for a carpet but no ammonia. Don't use fine sand because it will go anaerobic.

If using a soil you could use some gravel or rocks under the deeper sections to bulk it out.
For the slope you need substrate supports. You can use buried stones and slate or make plastic strips and bury them. These will stop it sliding down. Have a look at the video for "reciprocity" on the green machine's you tube channel and see how they make a bank of soil (from 17 mins).

It sounds like an interesting aquascape.
 
That was really useful greenview many thanks,

I will def go down the route of the Plastic supports to stop land slides,
Would love to use ADA powersand, but cannot accommodate the ammonia leach,

Def need to use something larger grain to stop compacting,

Any idea's,

I will also be Ei doseing and pressure co2,
 
ADA Aquasoil Africana is great stuff, as Is Malaya. Far less release of ammonia than Amazonia. With a mature filter, lots of plants and the usual daily water changes they should be fine and not give a spike in ammonia.
 
Don't see why not. The smaller grain sizes of Ada might be nicer for getting a carpet going, but Akadama would be ok as long as there is lots of fertiliser in the water column.
 
As I am using max 6 ltrs,
It will be going in a 240ltr tank,
I really like the look of the Amazon, So could I not use a spare 30ltr tank with filter to put the substrate into for a few weeks, doing daily water changes until the ammonia has leached then use it in. The 240ltr tank, would that work? ???

Ps many thanks for all you advice on this greenview, I have only ever done flat scapes using flora base topped with sandq
 
You could put the substrate in a 30litre yes, or do what TGM suggested to me when I wanted to add a 9 litre bag to my existing set up, get a large bucket, soak the substrate in the bucket for a couple of weeks whilst doing daily watt change I'm the bucket.


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To stop landslides, I use garden edging. It's a kind of plastic which is corrugated.

Have a look at garden centres. I have a role of about 20m and it's lasted me about 4 years to date.
 
Well once again thank you v much for all the advice,
I have ordered 2 ADA Amazon, and will walk down to the garden center for the corrugated border..

Once again thanks for all the advice,
 
Great question and one I set myself to solve by going as vertical as possible! My basic theory was to ignore commercial substrates and go back to basics and question how can a mud riverbank withstand the constant flow of water.

I've used a heavy heavy clay top soil from a flood plain and can create basically vertical walls, with no adverse effects, it's important to ensure it's not pure clay though as the humic substances in top soil ensure the clay stays "bound" together and you get clear water aswell as preventing any toxicity from heavy metals that may be present.

All plants root easily even though I compacted the substrate with a hammer and you get great colour from plants such as L arcuata and R rotundifolia, etc due to the high but safe mineral content of the flooded substrate - I've not needed to use any trace mix in my fertilising yet.

I experimented first with some jars of different substrates and found I could get near vertical and clear water with a heavy heavy clay topsoil from a flood plain. Will post some pictures in a journal when I can muster up the time to do so. On the steepest vertical wall - about 12 inches high I also hammered in some pond netting to create a retaining wall and I'm sure this helps when shrimp and stuff scurry about.

So far about 4 months in and vertical mud wall is holding without cause for concern...

Have a go with some jars and see for yourself!
 
Ohh natureboy,
That really has me interested, not really many flood planes in my area, Lancashire, Greater Manchester border

More like peat bogs up here, could I use river bank clay,

How did you go about using it, is if fairly malulable?
 
river bank clay would be along the right lines - I wouldn't take from the river bank though for lots of reasons, better to take some heavy clay topsoil from somewhere near by...the type that would clag up your wellies. In summer it bakes hard, and forms cracked patchwork. It should be heavy but shouldn't crumble too easily (that'll indicate a higher sand content than you'll want). It's very maleable, almost craftable!

I took some photos when I was putting together the hardscape that I'll upload at some point - sufficing to say I compacted it with a hammer! I take a different view on particle size / density etc to that of the commercial substrates sellers and figure if grass roots can penetrate heavy clay top soil so can aquatic plants, and I've seen no problems in nature or my aquarium with them being able to do that. The great thing is it opens the door to some really exciting aquscaping opportunities...
 
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