Daveslaney
Member
The one I have is the Chinese one. Maybe that's the reason it wouldn't work?
Don't really know to be honest.
Don't really know to be honest.
I'm going to give the EA one a go and see how I get onThe one I have is the Chinese one. Maybe that's the reason it wouldn't work?
Don't really know to be honest.
Hey Hoggie;Hi Andrew
What I can gather is Filipe Oliveira...has used small sections of Luwigia sp red...and either glued or tied them to the ends of the branches!
hoggie
No I had a full sized perforated plastic background that had lava rock stuck all over it, I used to swap them around because it was really differcult to keep everything looking fresh and to keep sea weeds alive.When you use the word background; you don't mean what is stuck to the back of the tank do you?
The tree is well and truly buried in the substrate as it show in an earlier post when I removed it to clean the fungus.
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never heard of anything like that before; sounds intriguing.No I had a full sized perforated plastic background that had lava rock stuck all over it, I used to swap them around because it was really differcult to keep everything looking fresh and to keep sea weeds alive.
I'm looking to make a scape I can enjoy looking at without having to put too much commitment to it (isn't everybody?)I just thought how cool it would be to keep your basic basic scape but swap the center piece with a nice new fresh algae free tree every few weeks.
Obviously you have enough on your plate to start thinking about my crazy ideas but maybe next time ah...
Filipe is the man with experience but I can't see details of how he done this anywhere, will have to have another hunt.I guess maintenance of stems tied on wood is not much different then planted ones, trimming will give bushier growth, but after a few trimmings the old stems don't put out that much new growth en should be replaced.
I agreea bucephalandra tree is much easier to maintain and would look nice for longer periods of time.
If I'm honest that sounds like too much work, especially given the difficulty of removing the tree as you say.No I mean that you would have two trees, you could plant your trees with slow growing plants like Anubias but keep one in an emersed state and one in the tank. When the one it the tank attracts algae or you fancy a change, you bring out the immersed one that is lush and algae free and swap them over!
Of course that means you have to look after two trees and have a special immersed set up (outside in the summer would be good)
However as you point out .. in this instance your tree is not easily removable!
Oase Biomaster thermoe 600 'boasts' a maximum flow of 1250 LPH - I know that is the maximum but after changing over to the Fluval G6 which I know to have an actual flow rate of 1000 LPH and the flow now being near to full it has started to disrupt the back left of my aquarium too and have some clumps of HC floating around now too Remember I'm only running one G6 at the moment and planned to run 2; unsure if I need to rethink that now.
Do I try draining the whole aquarium down again; attempting to put the substrate back something like it was and revert back to trying a dry start with a view the HC will hold the substrate in place long term once it's grown in?
Does anyone have any ideas? - remove all the substrate, pile some gravel up in place and just plant the tree?!?
I am not keeping themFor a quick fix, why not just go back to the Oase for now?
Yes, exactly the same. It just shows how much more power is in the G6.Are you using same inlet/outlets and same positioning? for G6 as previous filter
Outlet flow for sure.can you tell whether the substrate disturbance is from inlet or outlet flow?
This is what I was counting on from the word go and it worked for me before; the DSM just went wrong so I filled it.Once the carpet is established, higher/harder flow shouldn’t be an issue
Planting I'm happy to do with water in but I can drain the water level enough to sort the substrate with everything in there still so that's the plan when I get a chance and will add a bit more HC to move things along.You can fix substrate and HC plants with water - just takes a bit more maneuvering
This is something people seem to be divided on; I always thought it was harder to keep but many people are telling me HC/MC are just as demanding with everything so I will just stick with it and find out.Though MC would be lower maintenance and more accepting of interruptions - you could even just interplant MC at this stage
I suspect carpet would eventually become mostly MC
There is already small army of CRS in there but without hiding the tetra are enjoying the smaller ones I think the bigger ones will be okay and if not my mum has plenty in her aquarium so when things are covered in a bit I will go visit her aquarium.Obviously an army of shrimp and Clithon Corona snails are great partners in maintaining an aquarium - not so many Amano as they’re renowned for substrate adjustment and even HC consumption
If only life were so simpleJust “call in” during one of Filipe Oliveira’s Live Aquascaping Events, he always invites questions
- Green Aqua February 16, 2019
though you might find another sooner
(Better yet, pick up a cheap flight to Budapest and be there in person )
I suppose begin by picking up Ludwigia sp. 'Mini Super Red' (Aquaflora I presume)
I’d be surprised if the event didn’t go live - they generally do though occasionally there are some technical issues ... GA has some very knowledgeable film/camera crew so I’m expecting great thingsIf only life were so simple
Do you know if this event is streamed and you can ask that way?
I will have to have a study and find a retailer that actually sells what they say it is.I’ve not heard of anyone successfully breeding nerites in freshwater aquariums ( though “olive” nerites are found happily breeding in freshwater streams and rivers despite initially thought to only successfully bred in estuaries) - some of the Nerite species will lay eggs, which may hatch out but larvae that do not survive
Out of the nerites, Clithon corona are the smallest, I’ve not seen any eggs from them after several months, both Green Aqua and Jurijs mit JS recommend these as the most inclusive algae eaters
(The larger species commonly sold as “red onion”, “tire track”, ”zebra” had eggs everywhere within a couple months, eggs are laid down with a stellar adhesive which makes removal quite the challenge)
Don't we know it; they were put in there to overcome the pest snail problem and have caused their very own problem in the tank and the filter!Assassin snails seem to breed quite happily in aquaria
Read on..................................Well MC can’t be too demanding as I manage to grow it despite my lackadaisical ways
It doesn’t seem to mind being slowed down by reduced CO2, light, fertilizers; it doesn’t mind my lack of trimming - I do “push” it down at every water change while siphoning out any dust-debris (& allowing the baby shrimp to get out of the syphon tube); it doesn’t sulk too much if I decide it’s going to be a very “cloudy” (no lights, don’t even look at the tanks) day ... or three
This might suit me just fine.In case you missed this:
Jurijs mit JS just sprinkled the MC on top of the soil for the dry start, later trimmed it back several cm’s (no time for proper home tank maintenance) - it recovered very quickly
That tank is a bit busy for what I'm looking to achieve but thanks for the tip.knew I was on to something with the pinnatifida
That tank is a bit busy for what I'm looking to achieve but thanks for the tip.