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Fish room

Rabbit229 said:
Well I have this UV maybe I can convert it some how to the new system
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That will do, though 11W UV tube is on the very low flow side. You need to ensure your tube size (and wattage) can cope with your flow rate. If water flows too fast the UV doesn't have a chance to work (there is a minimum dwell time the water has to be exposed) and then the UV is no good. Make sure only filtered water goes through the UV unit as diseases etc can hide behind dirt whilst passing through the UV unit.
 
It's getting there slowly. Cash money's hold me back on these project.

I have been talking to a few ornamental Goldfish breeders and they don't use biological filters!

They run the tap water through there hose pipes and at a valve with a drip system' creating an 100% water change per day. Is this fine to do? Will the chlorine not damage the fish or will it dissolve as it's just dripping in to the tank
 
Rabbit229 said:
a few ornamental Goldfish breeders and they don't use biological filters!
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Are you planning on breeding goldfish?

Both chlorine & ammonia poisoning cause permanent damage to sensitive gill tissues ...
nitrites & even nitrates will also (permanently) alter fish at a biochemical level just the threshold is higher.
For better development of the cell types & compounds which give fish their unique appearance (iridescence, color, intensity etc, etc) use the best technical lighting available - pond raised fish that receive daily sun are the gold standard.
 
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alto said:
Are you planning on breeding goldfish?

Both chlorine & ammonia poisoning cause permanent damage to sensitive gill tissues ...
nitrites & even nitrates will also (permanently) alter fish at a biochemical level just the threshold is higher.
For better development of the cell types & compounds which give fish their unique appearance (iridescence, color, intensity etc, etc) use the best technical lighting available - pond raised fish that receive daily sun are the gold standard.
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I totally agree with you on the filteration. I'd think 15% water change per day is more than enough. Any more could flush out the essentials in the filter.

And yes I'm going to be breeding Pearlscale goldfish. Natural sunlight is the key but I'm in a basement :( i will be building an out door grow out pond in the garden this winter.

What lights are recommended to help them colour well.

This is some of my stock fish
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Good to see I'm not the only one who looks after goldfish. At the mo I've got a Blackmoor and a black Ranchu, there lovely fish. Never owned a Pearlscale though.
 
Sorry guys/galls, i can't look at those fish and not think "this isn't healthy". could be occupational deformity, but i will never find this man-made deformity atractive. Could be these function perfectly normal, but i've seen to often if "man" prefers form over function, things go haywire eventually.:(
 
Clint Hewitt said:
I'm not convinced the wooden stand you have those containers on is sturdy enough to support all that weight.
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Having had a quick look back to page 1 I think clint might be right. Some diagonal braces, front to back and side to side will stop tipping. Tie the bottom of the legs together while your at it to stop splaying. You might need a few more legs while your at it. A few thousand litres of water on the floor and a load of dead goldfish won't be a pretty site.
 
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Installed overflow system. The depth of water can be ran at 6inch for raising fry or 12 inch for growing them on.

Still undecided on the pump I need to use on the K1 filter. Please all suggestions welcome, some thing with power but low what. My set up 1000ltr so with 10,000 ltr pump per hour will turn it over 10 times an hour! Is this not to much, I've been reading 3 times per hour for a F1 filter? Is this correct
 
Those stands do not look any way strong enough for those tanks. Get them braced asap. Also, I don't think the timber used is thick enough.


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aaron.c said:
Those stands do not look any way strong enough for those tanks. Get them braced asap. Also, I don't think the timber used is thick enough.


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Lol time will tell. They look fine at the moment, ive actually put more supports under were I think is needed. Plus it's braces in from wall to wall with 18mm ply on top of the 2x2 frame work. Keeping in mind the 900ltr is spread over 4 meter by 1 meter area
 
Rabbit229 said:
Lol time will tell. They look fine at the moment, ive actually put more supports under were I think is needed. Plus it's braces in from wall to wall with 18mm ply on top of the 2x2 frame work. Keeping in mind the 900ltr is spread over 4 meter by 1 meter area
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I hope you are right. I am concerned that there seems to be some lean on the timber at the front.

I recently built a stand for a clay pizza oven.

The oven weighs 200kg and the slabs weigh another 200. So I used 4 x 4 fence posts (as they are pressure treated to avoid rot). It is all held together with 200mm coach bolts.

Perhaps a bit OTT, could have got away with 3 x 3 fence posts.

CTDT-SEWcAABCbH.jpg
 
That would see me out! Well built

They was a wonky leg at the front. As long as no one kicks them they will be fine ;)
I'm not worried about it, they are full of water and all is well for now.

I'm just concerned about the right pump for the system
 
I thought k1 was meant to sit under the surface of the water?

B5CCEA7E-3774-40E6-AA9F-B5E34904F2C3.jpg

I've bought 100ltr and its floating
 
I used to try this media. You have to wait. The water doesn't stick to the surface well when new.

To confirm the issue: http://www.raingarden.us/kaldnes_bio.pdf

First, when the media is new, it tends to be a little more buoyant than you would like it to be. A layer of floating media several feet thick, may extend above the surface of the water several inches. When mature, the media will not rise above the surface.
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