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3000 Liter High Tech Planted Tank
- Thread starter RickyV
- Start date
Wookii
Member
Tank is looking great!
I doubt you'll be able to sort a tank that large with traps, chemicals are your only real option, and it's worth tackling as they will kill both your shrimp and snails.
eSHa -NDX is apparently fine for snails, though its going to cost a fair bit to treat a tank of that size.
I doubt you'll be able to sort a tank that large with traps, chemicals are your only real option, and it's worth tackling as they will kill both your shrimp and snails.
eSHa -NDX is apparently fine for snails, though its going to cost a fair bit to treat a tank of that size.
Hi all,
Edit: I think it was on the <"2hr Aquatist"> site that I saw the original mention of redder Red-root Floater.
Further edit: Looking at the time-line I think the "2 hour Aquarist" probably got the idea from the VIMI blog <"VIMI">.
cheers Darrel
I think they work fairly well. @LondonDragon used a <"bespoke one, with Gucci bait, to thin out his leech issue">.
It <"maybe mixing">, Nitrate (NO3-) is a tricky one, purely because all <"nitrate compounds are soluble"> and you need to <"reduce the nitrate to nitrite (NO2-)"> before you have a coloured compound that you can measure.
I'd just go with that.
There is a discussion of that in <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">.
Edit: I think it was on the <"2hr Aquatist"> site that I saw the original mention of redder Red-root Floater.
Further edit: Looking at the time-line I think the "2 hour Aquarist" probably got the idea from the VIMI blog <"VIMI">.
cheers Darrel
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Thank you! If you're ever in Texas just let me know as this tank is open to the public.
Yeah I may have to look at chemicals. But I'm hoping to at least reduce them in the small breeding tank. I'm gonna give some traps a try and see if they get anything. I hear CPDs can eat planaria, though I probably don't have enough to make a dent.
Cool! I'm just hoping I can really reduce them. I'm sure I'll need a whole bunch of traps.
Yeah I'm just gonna stick with looking at the plants. The duckweed index has been showing I have plenty of nitrogen.
@RickyV Some fish and shrimp will eat planaria and help keep them in check. Take a look at this article
Tank is looking amazing 🙂
Tank is looking amazing 🙂
I'll take a look at them. Thank you!@RickyV Some fish and shrimp will eat planaria and help keep them in check. Take a look at this article
Tank is looking amazing 🙂
hydrophyte
Member
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2009
- Messages
- 1,051
Thank you!
Did some trimming today and wanted to share these massive pinnatifidas I cut. They were close to 90cm. Unfortunately don't have a good spot in the scape to let them keep growing to their full potential.
Also do you guys think green spot algae on anubias/glass is just something to accept? I have 4-5 ppm phosphates, stable 1.4 pH drop with good circulation. Reading on forums here it could be high iron rather than low phosphates that cause GSA. I currently do 0.20 ppm Fe weekly divided evenly between gluconate, DTPA and EDTA.
These anubias are 150cm below the lights so I can't imagine excess light being a problem but I could be wrong. I may have to shade that section. My sword as you can see below also gets a bit of GSA, though this one plant has never been in perfect health.
I also have some more fish and shrimps on the way! Fish will be added after a few weeks quarantine.
I took a picture next to the tank because some people on other sites sometimes think I mean to write 100 gallon tank instead of 1000 gallon lol.
Also do you guys think green spot algae on anubias/glass is just something to accept? I have 4-5 ppm phosphates, stable 1.4 pH drop with good circulation. Reading on forums here it could be high iron rather than low phosphates that cause GSA. I currently do 0.20 ppm Fe weekly divided evenly between gluconate, DTPA and EDTA.
These anubias are 150cm below the lights so I can't imagine excess light being a problem but I could be wrong. I may have to shade that section. My sword as you can see below also gets a bit of GSA, though this one plant has never been in perfect health.
I also have some more fish and shrimps on the way! Fish will be added after a few weeks quarantine.
I took a picture next to the tank because some people on other sites sometimes think I mean to write 100 gallon tank instead of 1000 gallon lol.
Fish were just added last week! We added harlequin rasboras, julii corydoras, threadfin rainbowfish, more CPDs, more cherry shrimps, and bamboo shrimp. I maybe overestimated how many rasboras I needed, I got 100. I want to eventually add 10 -15 pearl gourami as a final touch. Owner also wants some scarlet badis. Here is some footage of the fish. I just wish the rasboras would always school like in the first shot, they were schooling because I was doing a water change. I may have to throw an arowana in here to scare them lol.
Fish have been doing good, I occasionally pull out a fry from the tank so they must be happy. Shrimps also breeding a lot but they've unfortunately been hiding more now since adding the fish. Otocinclus nice and fat.
I have had a few issues with plants but I think most resolved. I tried reducing micros for a time down to 0.075 ppm Fe per week from CSM + B. But after a few weeks I started noticing these brown/gray marks on my old frogbit leaves, new leaves also looked a little yellow. Not sure what exactly caused it or if it is for sure related to micros but it seems to have resolved since increasing micros back to 0.20 ppm Fe per week from CSM+B.
I also think I've resolved these pinholes I had on my hygrophila pinnatifidas. I was stubborn on thinking it was due to potassium since I was dosing 10 ppm K per week and I figured that was surely enough. But since increasing potassium to 20 ppm per week the pinnatifidas look much better. Could there be a reason I need this much K? I realize this is a common dosing amount but I thought K was the least used macro. Or are pinnatifidas just unique in that they need a lot more K than other plants?
The amazon sword has continued to not do good. Though I think I'm starting to see improvement since increasing K? Not sure yet so will give it more time. Its strange because all the other sword varieties are thriving, just not the amazon. I may just try giving it root tabs. This is how bad it got.
The rotala blood red I brought from home has a thing where half the stems stunt and the other half grows like normal. My rotala blood red at home used to do this, but ever since replacing the substrate with aquasoil and being to busy to dose any fertilizers they've been growing without stunting. I wonder if it's the micros.
The last few weeks I've been experimenting with not dosing any nitrates to slow plant a growth a bit, and get a little extra coloration on some plants. Plants have continued to grow well, the red root floaters have begun to get a slight tint of pink but nothing crazy. Frogbit still looks healthy. I was going to begin to dose a small amount again just to have a baseline, but I will wait a bit just to see how much nitrates all the new fish contribute.
It may be too early tell, but I feel like the GSA has been coming down, but it could be either because of increased health from K, shading the front a little, reduced nitrates, or from some carbon I recently added.
I've been having fun growing some terrestrial plants above the tank. Goal is to cover that whole wall in plants.
This pothos developed a very thick vine.
I was looking at old pictures of the tank and I didn't realize how much the ferns, anubias and crypts have grown. They've gotten massive, maybe even a little too big lol. The sword in front of the wood got a growth spurt recently. Maybe I'm just coping but I kinda like the spice the BBA on the rock gives.
August 14, 2023
Most recent tank shot from April 7, 2024
Fish have been doing good, I occasionally pull out a fry from the tank so they must be happy. Shrimps also breeding a lot but they've unfortunately been hiding more now since adding the fish. Otocinclus nice and fat.
I have had a few issues with plants but I think most resolved. I tried reducing micros for a time down to 0.075 ppm Fe per week from CSM + B. But after a few weeks I started noticing these brown/gray marks on my old frogbit leaves, new leaves also looked a little yellow. Not sure what exactly caused it or if it is for sure related to micros but it seems to have resolved since increasing micros back to 0.20 ppm Fe per week from CSM+B.
I also think I've resolved these pinholes I had on my hygrophila pinnatifidas. I was stubborn on thinking it was due to potassium since I was dosing 10 ppm K per week and I figured that was surely enough. But since increasing potassium to 20 ppm per week the pinnatifidas look much better. Could there be a reason I need this much K? I realize this is a common dosing amount but I thought K was the least used macro. Or are pinnatifidas just unique in that they need a lot more K than other plants?
The amazon sword has continued to not do good. Though I think I'm starting to see improvement since increasing K? Not sure yet so will give it more time. Its strange because all the other sword varieties are thriving, just not the amazon. I may just try giving it root tabs. This is how bad it got.
The rotala blood red I brought from home has a thing where half the stems stunt and the other half grows like normal. My rotala blood red at home used to do this, but ever since replacing the substrate with aquasoil and being to busy to dose any fertilizers they've been growing without stunting. I wonder if it's the micros.
The last few weeks I've been experimenting with not dosing any nitrates to slow plant a growth a bit, and get a little extra coloration on some plants. Plants have continued to grow well, the red root floaters have begun to get a slight tint of pink but nothing crazy. Frogbit still looks healthy. I was going to begin to dose a small amount again just to have a baseline, but I will wait a bit just to see how much nitrates all the new fish contribute.
It may be too early tell, but I feel like the GSA has been coming down, but it could be either because of increased health from K, shading the front a little, reduced nitrates, or from some carbon I recently added.
I've been having fun growing some terrestrial plants above the tank. Goal is to cover that whole wall in plants.
This pothos developed a very thick vine.
I was looking at old pictures of the tank and I didn't realize how much the ferns, anubias and crypts have grown. They've gotten massive, maybe even a little too big lol. The sword in front of the wood got a growth spurt recently. Maybe I'm just coping but I kinda like the spice the BBA on the rock gives.
August 14, 2023
Most recent tank shot from April 7, 2024
Last edited:
Mike Singh
Member
This is insane!
Mike Singh
Member
Hi Ricky
What software did you use to design this scape?
I used this Scape It
Mike Singh
Member
Thanks Ricky, it's a bit clunky to use!
That tank Is a big inspiration to me so I really appreciate it! I seriously need to go see it.
So I was told an accident happened over the week. Apparently the CO2 regulator blew off the CO2 tank... I was sent a picture showing the nut split in half. I had no idea this could happen. Does anyone know what the most likely cause could be? I was told it could have been from the tank being overfilled, material defect, or overtightening the nut.
hypnogogia
Member
Was the nut hand tightened or did you use a tool? Should only be hand tightened. Having said that, I wouldn’t expect a nut to split in half that way, so I’d suspect material defect or that it was damaged in some way.
Cazza
Member
What a beautiful aquarium. Your hard work has really paid off.
Krzysztof 82 (Kris)
Member
