4ft tank 1st in 5 yrs

Chris Tinker

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i think im filter less!

Eheim continues to leak. all seals replaced.... any objections to sticking A LOT of Aquarian sealant around the rim of the primer lol.

options...

1) sealant
2) new filter
3) go for a sump - though i have a 3.5 yr old and 5month old.. no lock on the door so i would be worried about them.

HELP
 

Chris Tinker

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ok so a big update... messaged ehiem and suggestion is to send the head unit to the uk supplier, only going to cost delivery both ways. happy with this, as when it comes back ill have a second filter because....

i want some fish in my fish tank so i bought an ehiem pro 4 350+, next day delivery and tank is clean and filtered. now i can start the fishless cycle.

also @Zeus. sent me some plants so i threw them in, and have had a bit of a rescape 2 days later.. this is where i am at
20190720_232842.jpg

i listened to a bit of advice and the more i looked at it, i didnt like the wood ending bang in the middle, so its off, i also got 3 pieces of small wood, not sure about the middle piece just behind the large wood, but i love my "fallen" piece spiking out, if it fallls it falls....

i view the tank from this angle..
20190720_232907.jpg

let me know your thoughts.

i would like some advise please... how do i stop this,
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the debris gathers behind the pipe, i assume i need to add more water and get the pipe lower, but it just doesnt seem to sit well lower, is it just maintance, nice so i can clean it? advice and suggestions, thank you.

any tips, any suggestions, post away!
 

Zeus.

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now i can start the fishless cycle.

Shouldnt need to long as with sand being inert it should have little to no effect on the water. Adding some weed roots freshly pulled from the garden will speed up the cycling of the filter as they are loaded with the bacteria your filter needs. roots will have dirt on them which will show on you sand OFC, washing them will kill the bactera so I would be tempted to gut the roots up and get them in the filter either by opeing it up or take the end off the intake and get them sucked right up - could be tricky!

Substrate level is a bit low at the back behind the wood IMO, makes the scape lack depth. So you could put more sand in or use pots like I do in my pot scape few rocks round them or plants as they fill in presto. Pots also handy you you want more light in a plant to speed it up just just other pots to place it higher in the tank, get the growth them lower the pot few rocks and hidden.

upload_2019-7-21_19-30-21.png


as it fills in just use a smaller pot under it, yes it does look a little funny at first but a handy way to speed the plants up and get the biomass, pots are pretty cheap dont forget to block the holes up with something fine or the sand will just flood out :arghh:

Pots also handy to put cheap fast growing plants in at first IMO also, as tank fills in you can just take them out, makes trimming easy too, lift pot pull stems out trim bottom off replant out of tank pop back in :D Nice job for you little helper also without them messing in the tank ;) good to fast plants growing also as we do get impatience and start to mess about too soon.

the debris gathers behind the pipe, i assume i need to add more water and get the pipe lower,

Yes pipe better if below the water level
upload_2019-7-21_19-53-41.png


I did get away with it in pic below
upload_2019-7-21_19-55-0.png


But the water was jetting straight down, so it pulled any bits of leaves/plants down
 

Chris Tinker

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@Zeus. thank you. i will add some more sand... need to replace the bags i used any way haha.

i have high school chemistry ammonia at my disposal which i have added.. tonight i shall check for measurements / movement in chemicals.

i have had a pump running with a sponge since i started so no idea if that started cycling but the new filter is fresh...

as you explained got some melting on the plants... im looking in to co2 and FE as did that before.... bought some TNC complete to get going too. need pay day and bonus to come through lol
 
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I should have said earlier... if you do the background with cooking oil instead of water it will work a treat... far more forgiving and no chance of drying out and bubbles!
 

Chris Tinker

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so... here is the main fish i would like.

not going full biotype
however on the list comes these...

Mikrogeophagusaltispinosus (HASEMAN, 1911)

Bolivian Ram

think 6-8 of these.


Moenkhausiasanctaefilomenae

Red-eye Tetra
(with a warning of if not enough can be nippy... so caution) 6-8

so thinking these instead

Gasteropelecus sternicla(LINNAEUS, 1758)

Common Hatchetfish, Silver Hatchetfish
main warning is shy and jumper... i have a lid so meh.

love the contrast and odd look

or these

Nannostomus trifasciatusSTEINDACHNER, 1876

Three-lined Pencilfish

Copeina guttata(STEINDACHNER, 1876)

Red-spotted Tetra
up close these look stunning.

and to finish it off

Corydoras splendens(CASTELNAU, 1855)

Emerald 'Brochis'
which are stunning



now all fit within my tank / water parameter.
they are all from brazil
like sand and plants.

rams been the only territorial ones when breeding.

im thinking rams
red spotted
cory
shrimp

would provide a nice mix...

give me your thoughts
 

Chris Tinker

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I should have said earlier... if you do the background with cooking oil instead of water it will work a treat... far more forgiving and no chance of drying out and bubbles!

haha too late now going to buy some black paint. i think just before buying my fish i will drain the water, move it and paint it
 

Chris Tinker

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so, ehiem pro 2 is apparently fixed and returned.

co2 should arrive today
co2 art equipment should arrive today

so tank equipment should be perfect and ready. (once installed)


going to position the return with co2 to spray over the plant section but wondering on best position of the other spray bar...

thoughts please...

thinking both intakes on the plant side so hidden. co2 spray bar across the back but only over plants.

spray bar too far left side facing across the short side so all flow faces back to intakes, facing up to add surface movement, and should create up lift so no dead spots?



cycle update= ammonia is gone in 48 hrs added more and tonight will check nitrites.
 

Chris Tinker

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so you can see image, intakes to left

co2 over plants.

purple, stopping dead spots as there is flow over all the tank and water should move to the right?

orange to generate a circle motion of water? but a bit too visible for my liking.


yellow across the top to flow water to the right but i have concern underneath the sand could have a dead spot, would it create up lift?
20190802_112219.jpg
 

Zeus.

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intakes to left

did you mean right ? as two intakes in the spot where you have one ATM ?

Take it purple and green are the spraybars with the CO2 coming out of green and the spraybars output is going to front of tank? If so I would be happy with it as the filter without CO2 injection will be taking water from the CO2 injection zone and will send it to other end of tank
 

Chris Tinker

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did you mean right ? as two intakes in the spot where you have one ATM ?

Take it purple and green are the spraybars with the CO2 coming out of green and the spraybars output is going to front of tank? If so I would be happy with it as the filter without CO2 injection will be taking water from the CO2 injection zone and will send it to other end of tank


sorry yes. both intakes to the right, meaning all water should eventually move to the right.

green from back to front with co2

purple back to front with cycled water from the right side which as you put will have co2.

i ideally i want in takes to the right to hide them behind plants... i use to run in and out opposite, but viewing next to the side panel thought it would spoil... plus just sand to left.... would stand out massively.
 

Chris Tinker

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glad i stayed up for an additional 30 minutes to check for leaks ....

not fixed... another £16....
20190805_002251.jpg
 

Chris Tinker

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also what could have caused my KH to drop80 points?

i have nitrites... so thats good.. and nitrates... so at least one filter is working
 

Chris Tinker

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well cant complain with alan and john, part arrived, fitted and i seem to have no leaks.....

I HAVE NO LEAKS *HUGE SMILE*

so here is my current set up.... i hope i can start to really enjoy this hobby again.

external equipment=

Eheim pro 2 2128 with in built heater for 600litre tanks.

eheim pro 4 350 for tanks 300 litres.

external hydor heater 300w

CO2 arts regulator, FE in line diffuser.

internal = 2 inlets 2 outlets, co2 checker and the temperature guage for eheim 2.

I couldnt set up the outlets as planned due to how the tank rim works, i have attached a picture, still does not close 100% will have to work on that.

tank has been cycling for 2 weeks ish, ammonia drops in 2 days, nitrites are present...

i do have a fair few snails though haha.

plan is to keep with the cycling and get some more plants...

going to head to the light section as one of my strips has stopped working and i will most likely get T5 if thats still good.

well here are some photos for an up to date situation
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Chris Tinker

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alto

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It’s been awhile since I’ve kept M altispinosus but they’ve been model citizens in the shop display tank - think jungle planted :cool:
(relatively low light especially once the surface lily leaves take over - note tank is near window and definitely receives more natural light than fluorescent light)

If you do want to try them with Corydoras and shrimp, I’d establish these first
Also like their ramirezi counterpart, ensure optimum water quality before adding

(and can’t recall if I’ve mentioned (to you) check Bolivian ram stock closely for any emaciation/shrunken belly - they seem to (often) ship in with some internal parasites that cause gradual wasting leading to early death; I’d have Metronidazole on hand if possible and feed Metro~soaked food for 5-7 day, then repeat at intervals if needed, levamisole would also be effective but it’s rather less palatable, you could also try praziquantel~soaked food but again less palatable
Seachem Focus (I don’t know of any hobby level alternate source of this binding compound) is strongly recommended when preparing medicated foods)
 

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