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A Decent Nano Heater?

Smells Fishy

Member
Joined
25 Oct 2015
Messages
474
Location
Scarbourgh, UK
I'm not 100% on what nano tank I'm getting yet but I have a good idea and that I'll need a preferably compact/slim heater to kit it out with. The size I will need is most likely 25w. Amazon's the go to place for product reviews and I've gathered that generally nano heaters are the most likely to cook your fish or to just stop working, why is this so do you think? It seems like all the top brands dennerle,fluval,tetra,interpet etc can't get it right.

If it comes to it I think I'm going to order one of these 2.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hydor-25W-...F8&qid=1496209904&sr=8-20&keywords=25w+heater
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquael-Com...7&sr=8-2&keywords=aquael++aquarium+heater+25w

I'm hopefully going to order what I need in the next few days so I'll consider your responses carefully un till then. Cheers.
 
Maybe try one of these from co2 art. I have to be honest here, I bought one some months ago but haven't managed to set a tank up with it in yet, my nano is still in the haven't decided what to do with it yet mode and I've been too busy at work. It's very small and discreet, can be controlled from outside of the aquarium and has an auto shut off feature if you forget to knock it off when you empty water. I have the 100watt version running in my other tank for over a year and had no issues so if that's anything to go by they are pretty solid.
 
I have 3 Eden heaters in use 2 x 50 watt and a 75 watt for over a year now.. They work like a charme, 125 watt is hanging in the sump and the other 50 watt is heating a 25 litre tank.. They also have a 25 watt in their collection..

I have no experience with them malfuctioning.. And provide 3 year guarantee.
http://www.aquatix-2u.co.uk/edh100-aquarium-heaters-eden.html

I have very bad experience with the stainless steel heater version.. Forgot to unplug it doing a water change.. Ok it's stuppid, i know.. But these darn steel heaters do not crack like the glass ones. They simple start leaking without showing physical damage and i almost electrocuted myself sticking a finger in te tank.. The fuse didn't pop, but there was still AC 220 on the tank water. So imho, stainless steel can be very dangerous..
 
I have Cera in two of my nano tanks and they have been fine (until now :eek: ) also have a dennerle which has also behaved itself, Cera's have been in for 2 years dennerle (different tank) about 14 months. I sometimes think that if you forget to switch them off during water changes that might strain them? Even if they have switch off technology but that's just a wild guess based on no technical expertise!


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Maybe try one of these from co2 art. I have to be honest here, I bought one some months ago but haven't managed to set a tank up with it in yet, my nano is still in the haven't decided what to do with it yet mode and I've been too busy at work. It's very small and discreet, can be controlled from outside of the aquarium and has an auto shut off feature if you forget to knock it off when you empty water. I have the 100watt version running in my other tank for over a year and had no issues so if that's anything to go by they are pretty solid.

The site doesn't work properly for me, most of the screen is taken up by the drop down menu, doesn't matter how far I scroll it doesn't change. I'm using a kindle btw if that's my problem.
 
forget to switch them off during water changes that might strain them?

The glass ones probably just crack, at least that's what hapenned to me when filling again with cold water. It obviously hadn't a shut off feature if dry. But it was a long time ago. The stainless steel one which had also a rubber plug on top for the thermostat started leaking, and also leaked electricity to the tank water. As long as the tank is not grounded which most tanks aren't nor shouldn't be than nothing happens. Till i did put i finger in the water and accidently touched the central heating. I felt a shock like sticking my finger in the power socket. Took the multimeter to check and the tankwater had the full 220 volt load. Likely not enough amperage leaking to blow the fuse, no idea for how long this was going on. The heater didn't show any sign of damage, i took it apart and it was indeed moist on the inside.. Most air is enough to conduct electricity..

Lessons learned for ever,
1 - always pull the power plugs before sticking a finger in the tank if anything 220 volt is in the water.. :)
2- Never ever buy a stainless steel heater again in my life.. They are very dangerous and unsafe. Especialy for enthousiastic children.
3- A multimeter is now a standard tool in my cabinet. Regularly checking for leaking electrical equipment..

It can kill you or make your fish sick if the tank is grounded. That way a discovered also that i had a permanent Hana pH meter in the sump sending about 3 volts through the water from the probe to it's ground penn. Also felt a slight tickling sensation with a finger in the water and touching a ground. Since the pH meter had a ground penn i recon the fish felt the same sensation constantly. I do no longer use this pH checker for the aquarium.

Ok it is stuppid to forget to unplug a heater. but it happens very easily i guess probably almost everybody did somewhere along the way or will one day accidently forget it.
 
The site doesn't work properly for me, most of the screen is taken up by the drop down menu, doesn't matter how far I scroll it doesn't change. I'm using a kindle btw if that's my problem.
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I have added temperature controllers to my tanks, either stc1000 or/and inkbird 308. I think they are particularly important in smaller tanks (my small tank being 15gal, the others are mostly 55s and 100gal) because temperature fluctuations in smaller tanks can be a lot quicker and more extreme. It is also handy to have the big bright digits showing the temperature in the tank rather than squinting at a tiny algae covered thermometer that always seems to fall buttered side down in the tank. Pity Schego do not make a 25w titanium heater (and even the 50 w is still in the same 25 cm long casing as the 250w), I lime them because they are built to survive a thermonuclear explosion and they just do the heating bit, leaving temperature regulation to a separate temperature controller of your choice.

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