Advice on KH

[crutter]

Hi all, This is my first post in 13 years 😂 I’ve been out of the hobby for the last 13 years due to work and having a family but have now decided it’s time to have a beautiful planted tank or two back in my life.

My current setup is:

Aqua One Betta sanctuary 10l with 100lph filter (I’ve put extra 10mm ceramic balls in all the dead spaces in the filter box, making sure not to obstruct flow)

10w Lominie LED on WiFi timer with sunrise and sunset mode enabled, This runs for 9 hours a day.

A 2 litre CO2 generator, The stainless type ones off eBay with regulator and solenoid. This is set to one bubble every 3 seconds and comes on one hour before the lights and off one hour before they switch off.

Fluval Aquasoil with a few crushed API root tabs at the base.

TNC Complete dosed at 0.5 ml per day and at the moment I do a 10% water change every other day and a 40% change once a week (Tank has been set up for 4 weeks)

I have 0 Ammonia and Nitrite.

The plants and livestock are as follows:

Reineckil ‘Mini’
Christmas Moss
Rotala Rotundifolia
Rotala Rotundifolia ‘H’ra’
Tweediel ‘Monte Carlo’
Bucephalandara pygmaea ‘Bukit Keleam’
Java fern ‘Narrow’
Phyllanthus Fluitans

One small Betta (Will only be in here until his new 45 litre tank is cycled), 6 Neocardinia shrimp, 4 Nerite snails

So my question regards my KH, I have read as much as I can on here but still I’m not 100% on a few things. I do apologise if this has been asked a 1000 times before.

My tap water has 0 dKH and 5 dGH, because I knew the aquarium my Betta was coming from had very hard and high PH water I adjusted my KH to 6 and GH to 6 using Seachem Equilibrium and Alkaline buffer. I set the filter outlet to not disturb the surface and this gave me a PH of 7.2 with the Co2 off and 6.8 with it on. My drop checker always stayed lime green with the Co2 on.

I’ve since read/watched videos that suggest to have some surface agitation to increase the gas exchange and just run the Co2 a little harder to compensate for the loss. So in turn I have tried this by setting my outlet to gently ripple the surface. This has resulted in a PH of 7.8 with Co2 off and 6.8 with Co2 on. Again drop checker is always lime green with Co2 on.

Basically I just want to know what the best possible KH would be as I can adjust mine to anything I want easily. I want my shrimp and snails to be able to thrive without any problems to their shell formation. And also want the Betta to be happy in these conditions.

My plants grow like crazy and I’ve had no algae problems whatsoever but they do not pearl like they did on the tanks I had many years ago.

Thank you for your time.

 

[keef321]

It is my understanding that the softness of your water (normally a low KH) is important for keeping certain plants. As you get to the higher end of KH levels, then you do better with harder water loving plants and may come across other issues such as availability of iron etc.

I currently aim for a KH of 4, simply as this requires for me a 50% RO to Tap water mix, and from my experience this level for me, allows to me grow my plants with better form and health, than when I had a KH of 8, and the resulting higher PH of around 8. Some sensitive plants may require very soft water. I think the best place I have found to understand this the best is the 2hr aquarist site, have a look at this What is a good level of KH

An extract from that website page, that gives advice on ranges as follows

"Planted tanks generally do better at lower KH ranges than higher. With regards to growing plants, between 1-2 dKH you can keep sensitive softwater species. (Some Eriocaulons and Tonina species will not survive in higher KH tanks). Between 2-7 dKH you can keep 97% of all commercial aquatic plants in optimal condition. (Some Rotala and Ammania species may have an easier time in softer water). Between 6 -12+ dKH you can probably grow 95% of species well, but some will be sub-optimal. Above 18 dKH or so, more plant growth issues start arising - at this level, hardy plants such as Java fern, Anubias, Vals, certain Swords and Crypts will still grow well, but many other species will stunt.

Many more sensitive freshwater fish species may have the same preference for lower or higher KH ranges, although the majority of commercially bred common ornamental fish function well through a large range (i.e. 1 to 10dkh). If you are intending to breed specific species, checking up on their requirements before hand is important."

I hope this helps.

Keith

 

[crutter]

It is my understanding that the softness of your water (normally a low KH) is important for keeping certain plants. As you get to the higher end of KH levels, then you do better with harder water loving plants and may come across other issues such as availability of iron etc.

I currently aim for a KH of 4, simply as this requires for me a 50% RO to Tap water mix, and from my experience this level for me, allows to me grow my plants with better form and health, than when I had a KH of 8, and the resulting higher PH of around 8. Some sensitive plants may require very soft water. I think the best place I have found to understand this the best is the 2hr aquarist site, have a look at this What is a good level of KH

An extract from that website page, that gives advice on ranges as follows

"Planted tanks generally do better at lower KH ranges than higher. With regards to growing plants, between 1-2 dKH you can keep sensitive softwater species. (Some Eriocaulons and Tonina species will not survive in higher KH tanks). Between 2-7 dKH you can keep 97% of all commercial aquatic plants in optimal condition. (Some Rotala and Ammania species may have an easier time in softer water). Between 6 -12+ dKH you can probably grow 95% of species well, but some will be sub-optimal. Above 18 dKH or so, more plant growth issues start arising - at this level, hardy plants such as Java fern, Anubias, Vals, certain Swords and Crypts will still grow well, but many other species will stunt.

Many more sensitive freshwater fish species may have the same preference for lower or higher KH ranges, although the majority of commercially bred common ornamental fish function well through a large range (i.e. 1 to 10dkh). If you are intending to breed specific species, checking up on their requirements before hand is important."

I hope this helps.

Keith

Thanks Keith, I've read the article and agree that a low KH is better for my plants. I think I will also drop mine down to 4 dKH, My main concern is for my nerite snails. Am I right in thinking they use the calcium from the GH to build their shells rather than the carbonate from the KH? I guess I'll just slowly lower my KH through small water changes and keep an eye on their health, If they start to deteriorate I'll just make them their own tank with harder water. Thank you for the help.

 

[keef321]

Thanks Keith, I've read the article and agree that a low KH is better for my plants. I think I will also drop mine down to 4 dKH, My main concern is for my nerite snails. Am I right in thinking they use the calcium from the GH to build their shells rather than the carbonate from the KH? I guess I'll just slowly lower my KH through small water changes and keep an eye on their health, If they start to deteriorate I'll just make them their own tank with harder water. Thank you for the help.

Yes, you need to keep GH min 5/6 for snails and shrimp, KH for the plants 😀

 

[crutter]

Yes, you need to keep GH min 5/6 for snails and shrimp, KH for the plants 😀

Brilliant I'll keep my GH at 6 and drop my KH to 4 then, Thanks again.

 

[Zeus.]

Hi and welcome back

My tap water has 0 dKH and 5 dGH, because I knew the aquarium my Betta was coming from had very hard and high PH water I adjusted my KH to 6 and GH to 6 using Seachem Equilibrium and Alkaline buffer.

So you just need to add a little KH as your GH is fine already, as mentioned above. When your present remineralisers run out, you save some money and get some Potassium Bicarbonate and make a solution as below and just add 5ml for every 1 litre of water added to tank for a 1kH ( add 10ml for 2kH per litre etc)

 

[crutter]

Hi and welcome back


So you just need to add a little KH as your GH is fine already, as mentioned above. When your present remineralisers run out, you save some money and get some Potassium Bicarbonate and make a solution as below and just add 5ml for every 1 litre of water added to tank for a 1kH ( add 10ml for 2kH per litre etc)
View attachment 219376

Thank you, I will definitely be buying the salts/minerals to make my own ferts this week. I'll pick up some potassium bicarbonate at the same time. I did buy my dry powders off TNC many years ago but they seem to have stopped selling them. Any suggestions on the best place to buy them these days? Also where could I get a copy of the spreadsheet you are using? I noticed I could add my water report to it and get it really dialled in. I'll slowly bring my KH down over the week to around 3-4 KH, The livestock came from an aquarium with very hard water and I wasn't sure of the requirements of my snails/shrimps so I didn't want to bring it down too low too fast without getting some advice. I really appreciate your help.

 

[bazz]

Also where could I get a copy of the spreadsheet you are using?

IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator

Hello everyone, Based on its ancestor, the new IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator is completed at last. This has been a long (sometimes fun, sometimes painful) adventure for me. I have spend more time than I care to admit but here it is, ready to roll. Home screenshot here below: Background...

www.ukaps.org

@Zeus. is a sound method for raising kH but I personally would not even go as high as 4, I run mine at less than 1 although I would not advocate this for a newcomer to hobby but 2's plenty. You can also feed additional Calcium to your inverts by way of nettles, Spinach and Mineral Sticks etc.

 

[John q]

Would love to know how you have 5gdh and zero kh out of the tap... regardless beta's like soft (low kh) water 😀

 

[hypnogogia]

My tap water has 0 dKH and 5 dGH,

Wowzers! Where is that magical tap water?

 

[crutter]

IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator

Hello everyone, Based on its ancestor, the new IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator is completed at last. This has been a long (sometimes fun, sometimes painful) adventure for me. I have spend more time than I care to admit but here it is, ready to roll. Home screenshot here below: Background...

www.ukaps.org

@Zeus. is a sound method for raising kH but I personally would not even go as high as 4, I run mine at less than 1 although I would not advocate this for a newcomer to hobby but 2's plenty. You can also feed additional Calcium to your inverts by way of nettles, Spinach and Mineral Sticks etc.

Thank you, My worry about going lower than 3 is that my PH will drop down too low, Like you say i'll wait until I've got a little more experience until I try that. Perhaps I'll try it on the larger 45 litre tank i'm cycling ready to put this Betta in as it will be more stable than the 10 litre he's currently in.

 

[crutter]

Wowzers! Where is that magical tap water?

Would love to know how you have 5gdh and zero kh out of the tap... regardless beta's like soft (low kh) water 😀

I'm really lucky and live in North Wales, my water comes from a reservoir that is situated in moorland with a lot of peat surrounding it I believe. My KH could be 0.5 - 1 but the test kit instantly turns yellow with one drop so it's hard to say. I'll show my water quality report, I'm not entirely sure this is accurate to my exact area as I have lived not far from here and had a different source which had really hard water so I don't know if the report is a ballpark figure for the whole area.

 

[crutter]

Here’s a better view of the tank with the lights dimmed a little, should the Alternanthera be more red/pink? It’s growing really fast but doesn’t look as vibrant as in the picture on the 1-2-Grow cup.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I'll show my water quality report, I'm not entirely sure this is accurate to my exact area

live in North Wales, my water comes from a reservoir that is situated in moorland with a lot of peat surrounding it I believe.

Would love to know how you have 5gdh and zero kh out of the tap... regardless beta's like soft (low kh) water

Perfect, the dGH is the <"German"> value, so dKH = 3.45. One dKH is equivalent to <"21.8 ppm bicarbonate (HCO3-)">.

as I have lived not far from here and had a different source which had really hard water

We have a map <"Some handy facts about water">, but tap water can be very variable over short distances,

My main concern is for my nerite snails. Am I right in thinking they use the calcium from the GH to build their shells rather than the carbonate from the KH?

They use both, the shell is the "aragonite" form of CaCO3. Have a look at <"Nerite Snails in high tech">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Zeus.]

Also where could I get a copy of the spreadsheet you are using?

IFC Calculator - always better to take control yourself IMO, trouble with using water reports is that waters contents vary over the year with water company's blending it at time to meet regulations

 

[crutter]

Hi all,


Perfect, the dGH is the <"German"> value, so dKH = 3.45. One dKH is equivalent to <"21.8 ppm bicarbonate (HCO3-)">.

We have a map <"Some handy facts about water">, but tap water can be very variable over short distances,

They use both, the shell is the "aragonite" form of CaCO3. Have a look at <"Nerite Snails in high tech">.

cheers Darrel

Hi Darrel, thanks for the advice. I'll give the snail guide a good read Looking at the map I live right in the middle of a soft water area. I checked where I used to live on the map and indeed it was in a small pocket of hardwater, I swear at times it was sea water coming out of the taps!!

Just a quick question on my water report, Is the Magnesium a little low? It seems my GH is mostly comprised of Calcium, Or am reading it wrong? I'm just asking as I'm using Seachem Equilibrium and that contains around 4 times more calcium than Magnesium, Would I be better just dosing some Epsom salts instead of it? Or do I need more Calcium than Magnesium?

Sorry for all the questions guys, It's been a long time since I last had a high tech tank and just want to get back up to speed as soon as possible. I am reading as much as I can on here but a lot of threads are quite old or have conflicting info so I'm just trying to get the most up to date info as I can. I really do appreciate you all taking the time to help. I hope one day I can become a valuable member of this forum.

 

[crutter]

IFC Calculator - always better to take control yourself IMO, trouble with using water reports is that waters contents vary over the year with water company's blending it at time to meet regulations

I totally agree, I made the mistake of following the advice of YouTubers and bought the fancy products when I knew damn well that I could make them myself at a fraction of the cost. To be honest at first I was just going to go low tech but it escalated fast 😂 I'm not one to do things by halves, I bought another bigger tank before this one had even cycled. I'm going to take my time with that one though and get it perfect.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Just a quick question on my water report, Is the Magnesium a little low? It seems my GH is mostly comprised of Calcium, Or am reading it wrong?

You are right. The UK differs from a lot of the continental USA, because we have very low amounts of magnesium (Mg) in our water. This is for <"geological reasons">. I think some of the US recipes leave out magnesium (Mg) because of this. Most recipes for "all in one" fertilisers leaves out calcium (Ca++), but only because it is very likely your tap water will supply it and it forms a <"lot of insoluble salts">.

I'm just asking as I'm using Seachem Equilibrium and that contains around 4 times more calcium than Magnesium,

We have an Equilibrium thread <"Seachem method of potassium dosing">. I'll be honest I have a bit of a jaundiced view of <"Seachem's products and advertising">.

Would I be better just dosing some Epsom salts instead of it? Or do I need more Calcium than Magnesium?

Epsom Salts (MgSO4.7H2O) are <"what I use">. Personally I'm not <"too bothered about nutrient ratio">, but we have <"some threads"> that look at optimal potassium (K), <"calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) ratio">.

I am reading as much as I can on here but a lot of threads are quite old or have conflicting info

That is the problem <"sorting out the coffee from the froth">.

If it was me? I'd use your tap water <"as is">, I wouldn't add any specific dGH or dKH, other than <"via your fertiliser addition">.

If you are really set on keeping Nerites and Cherry Shrimps? You will need to add some calcium and carbonate buffering, this isn't a problem, it is much easier to add things to water rather than take them away.

cheers Darrel

 

[John q]

If it was me? I'd use your tap water <"as is">, I wouldn't add any specific dGH or dKH, other than <"via your fertiliser addition">.

Same for me. The tnc complete addition of 3.5mls weekly will be adding an extra 2.8ppm of magnesium, once we take into account accumulation via 50% water changes your mg levels will be sitting around 5ppm, which should be plenty.

 

[crutter]

If you are really set on keeping Nerites and Cherry Shrimps?

You will need to add some calcium and carbonate buffering, this isn't a problem, it is much easier to add things to water rather than take them away.

I do want at least some shrimp in the tank as a clean up crew as with such a small volume it is very hard to get into all the nooks and crannies to remove any decaying plant matter or fish waste, Plus even with a 50% water change I have very little time to syphon off any waste due to the small size of the tank. For now I think I shall aim to bring the KH down to around 3 and leave the GH alone. As John q mentioned I'm receiving Mg from my nutrients.

The tnc complete addition of 3.5mls weekly will be adding an extra 2.8ppm of magnesium, once we take into account accumulation via 50% water changes your mg levels will be sitting around 5ppm, which should be plenty.

I've since used a calculator and am now dosing 1ml of TNC complete daily using the EI daily method, So by his calculations should have a Mg level sitting around 10ppm. I'll continue to monitor the situation over the next few weeks, My goal is to find a happy medium for the plants and live stock. If I do notice the snails having any problems then I'll just get them out and make them a small hardwater tank to live out their days. I've bought some spirulina calcium blocks for them, Will this affect my water chemistry? Or are they safe to just throw in and forget about?

Thanks again guys