• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
  • You can now follow UKAPS on Instagram.

Algal depression

Garuf

Member
Thread starter
Joined
30 Oct 2007
Messages
5,005
Location
Copenhagen
Circulation isn't an issue I feel, the 2224 has a turnover of 700lph which is high on a 10 gallon, also the stray bar is vertical and I can visibily trace mist from the diffuser all the way arround the tank right to the intake so flow/circulation isn't the cause, dosing you could be right with, the thing with pc is that they are very intense in one area and no others. Believe me I would switch to linear if I could find something suitable.
I could increase EI dosing but I really don't want to as I haven't a clue what I'm doing in this area and I'm already dosing in the bracket above my tank size.
 
Joined
10 Jun 2007
Messages
963
Location
Dorset, UK
firstly, dead spots can cause bad flow, even if you have a high turnover.

also, EI was designed for something in the region of 2wpg of T8 lighting, so if you have more than this, you need to increase your dosing accordingly.. so, 4wpg, would be double EI.. you can use the dosing calculater in my sig to work it all out.

personally, id carry out a 3 day blackout (total, no feeding, no co2, no ferts).. then chop the lighting down, there should be no need to start over. just make sure you remove all visible signs of algae before the blackout, and seal up the tank to light completely. after that things should be alot easier.
 

ceg4048

Expert/Global Moderator
UKAPS Team
Joined
11 Jul 2007
Messages
9,186
Location
Chicago, USA
Hi Garuf,
Remember we talked about physical removal being a top priority. I recall you said that you were having difficulty removing it from the ground cover. If that's the case then you are sort of trapped in a catch-22 where the dosing, which is necessary, also feeds the existing algae. Ground cover and mosses are always the most difficult to deal with but you can trim, or "mow" the lawn down almost to the substrate level in order to remove the attached algae strands. With the increase in dosing and CO2 that you have implemented they will grow back fine even though they will look absolutely horrible after the trim. If you can afford it, a 3X overdose of Excel or CarboLife for about 3 weeks should take care of the remnants (hopefully the rest of your plants are not sensitive to the overdose). This takes a couple of weeks normally though. 8)

Although I agree with Matt, since you have already done the blackout, increased your dosing to the next tank size bracket, increased the flow and increased the CO2 with positive effects I'd say you're on the right track. It's not clear whether you were able to increase the frequency of the water changes or whether you were able to insert a lower wattage bulb.

In any case you'll have to be patient. Try the trim and the excel treatment for a few weeks and see how that goes. If you can up the CO2 even more without gassing the fish :wideyed: then do so as well.

Cheers,

Cheers,
 

Garuf

Member
Thread starter
Joined
30 Oct 2007
Messages
5,005
Location
Copenhagen
Frolicsome_Flora said:
firstly, dead spots can cause bad flow, even if you have a high turnover.

also, EI was designed for something in the region of 2wpg of T8 lighting, so if you have more than this, you need to increase your dosing accordingly.. so, 4wpg, would be double EI.. you can use the dosing calculater in my sig to work it all out.

personally, id carry out a 3 day blackout (total, no feeding, no co2, no ferts).. then chop the lighting down, there should be no need to start over. just make sure you remove all visible signs of algae before the blackout, and seal up the tank to light completely. after that things should be alot easier.

Sorry, I should have also mentioned that dead spots, too, are unlikely, since the tank's only feature is a central log and this as far as I can tell has good flow all around it.

I'll leave the hc to grow more, its still a sprinkling on my substrate and it's kinda frustrating having to pull it up all the time and having to wait for it to grow back.

Ceg, I missed that in our original conversation, was I supposed to have been increasing water changes long term?
Also, I have been unavailable to get another bulb, one of 24W, this is entirely down to my poor money managing. That and I really thought I could get away without altering it.
 

ceg4048

Expert/Global Moderator
UKAPS Team
Joined
11 Jul 2007
Messages
9,186
Location
Chicago, USA
Garuf said:
Ceg, I missed that in our original conversation, was I supposed to have been increasing water changes long term?
Also, I have been unavailable to get another bulb, one of 24W, this is entirely down to my poor money managing. That and I really thought I could get away without altering it.

Water changes in high light tanks help fight algae in two ways: they reduce organic debris/NH4 concentration and remove algae spores simultaneously. It's up to you how much and how often you change. 2X per week is better than 1X, and 3X is better than 2X. A 50% volume change is good but again, a higher percentage is better. Remember to dose properly after each change. Once you have eliminated the visible algae the increased dosing/CO2 will help prevent serious outbursts and you can then resume the normal weekly changes.

I understand you only have a small amount of HC and don't want to start cutting it but what about the other cover plants and moss that are affected? Can you trim those? Every strand you get out of the tank helps. Strands produce spores which turn into more strands.

Have you checked lampspec for bulbs? http://www.lampspecs.co.uk/Light-Bulbs- ... Daylight_4 Their 18 watt 6500K bulbs are only £4. I think you have to add an additional £7 for shipping and insurance though.

Cheers,
 

Garuf

Member
Thread starter
Joined
30 Oct 2007
Messages
5,005
Location
Copenhagen
ceg4048 said:
Water changes in high light tanks help fight algae in two ways: they reduce organic debris/NH4 concentration and remove algae spores simultaneously. It's up to you how much and how often you change. 2X per week is better than 1X, and 3X is better than 2X. A 50% volume change is good but again, a higher percentage is better. Remember to dose properly after each change. Once you have eliminated the visible algae the increased dosing/CO2 will help prevent serious outbursts and you can then resume the normal weekly changes.

Ahh, I've been doing 2x 50% water changes once a week back to back effectively changing 100% of the water. I can't really do more water changes as I simply don't have the time with being at college until 6pm each day.

ceg4048 said:
I understand you only have a small amount of HC and don't want to start cutting it but what about the other cover plants and moss that are affected? Can you trim those? Every strand you get out of the tank helps. Strands produce spores which turn into more strands.

I've cut out as much as I dare, I'd cut the hair grass more but every stem I've trimmed in the past has gone yellow after, which is not a good sign I'm sure.
I've no moss left any more, I cleared it all out as it was too far gone I felt.
ceg4048 said:
Have you checked lampspec for bulbs? http://www.lampspecs.co.uk/Light-Bulbs- ... Daylight_4 Their 18 watt 6500K bulbs are only £4. I think you have to add an additional £7 for shipping and insurance though.

Cheers,

I haven't no, 14w sounds too low to me, I'd still opt for 24w, just to be on the safe side, I've read HC doesn't do so well in lower light.
I've upped my co2 a tiny bit more again today and cleaned the diffuser, tomorrow I'll carry on routine maintenance, this being dosing EI clearing out any algae and doing a back to back 50% w/c, would stability be best for ridding the last of the algae now the worsts gone or would it be best to run a second black out?
 
Top