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Alternanthera reineckii propagation/cutting

lurch1000

Member
Joined
21 Feb 2013
Messages
122
Location
Yorkshire
Evening all,

I have some A.reineckii in my tank, and had been rocketing up and out the tank.

Had a go at cutting it as I would any other stem plant, but the base I left seems to bit be doing a lot in the way of regrouping, but the replanted tops are rocking away.

What can I expect from the cut bases? Will they develop eventually?

Many thanks.
 
Yes, they will carry on. Be sure to keep the base free of root build-up by cutting those off.

Cheers,
 
Think i have the wrong end of the stick now. Where I cut the original stem in half, the top bit that was replanted is fine, the bottom bit, unmoved, is healthy but not growing new growth. Not sure what you mean by keeping the base clear?
 
Should say its been a few weeks since I first cut the plant and nothing. Going to need to cut a couple more very soon as they're out the tank, any suggestions as to the best place to chop?
 
Thanks for the link. I think I've read that one before, but revision and revisiting is good.
 
Finally, after weeks of nothing happening with the base portion of the cutting, I have spotted a tiny side shoot.

Where this was throwing me, the top portions and the original plants I put in rocketed away, and expected similar behaviour from the base portion.

Other stem plants I've had have rocketed from the base as well.

Time to do some more cutting, tank is rapidly turning in to a riparium with this stuff! Lid will burst open if I don't get the scissors out....

Thanks again for the link, nice to revisit it once more.
 
Decided that as two more shoots were out the top, I'd do some tidying up of the A.reineckii.

It's really going to be a long haul with this. The initial plants and replanted tops do well and look good, the bases don't. There are some low down side shoots, these will have to grow and be replanted, unless the cut bases do much, looks like they have to be removed once I've got the shoots off them as they look bobbins.
 
Hi mate,
Yes, If the bases don't look good then just pull them out and replace with the tops. It's really your option.

Cheers,
 
I think it's now a case of cut the top earlier rather than later, give the base a chance, get any shoots then skip the rest. I have a couple of species of Myriophyllum that grow like there's no tomorrow, but they're easier to cut as they don't look like a dog's dinner for too long.

I ceased fertilising this tank a while back after a mis-dose of ferts and the TDS rocketed and had a couple of issues, forgot to start up again, but the plants haven't stopped going mad! I'm now ticking in APF's chelated trace when I remember. Not that nitrate tests can necessarily be relied upon, but I have an API kit so thought I'd waft it over the tank, and it didn't register any at all. Anyway, decided I'll knock up a fresh batch of macro and dose lightly to start with to take it from there. Few nits of duckweed that don't seem to be propagating so well of late, so definitely low on nutrients in the tank. I'd like some Limnobium or Pistia, but the currents in the tank are too strong for it.
 
Good stuff mate. You can probably guess my answer, but just in case, I'll reiterate my opinion that you should dose the tank with nutrients because nutrients are what plants need to thrive. You should not dose because some goofy time wasting test kit says you should. Ask yourself what would you have done, for example if the test kit told you that you had 200ppm of NO3?

Cheers,
 
I will be resuming dosing, I've not long dug the salts out from the cupboard to make a new bottle of macro up after forgetting yesterday as I got a bit carried away setting up the other tank.

As for test kits, I'm aware of your views on them, and I also fully understand the limitations. I've taken to the duckweed index to some extent for nutrient monitoring. However, the nitrate test was originally done as a curiosity as to why the salinity of my tank had increased. I don't use a TDS meter for any other real purpose than a loose comparative index when I need to, I prefer to use my conductivity meter. Some of the fish I have, and due to salinity going through the roof, some I had for a brief period of time (consensus was osmo-regulatory issues), I am now careful of how much of what I add to the tank. I love plants, but fish come first by a long way, and at the time the reason I ceased dosing was to establish whether the salinity issue was due to fertilisation or not. So whatever the nitrate test measured, the apparent level was always in line with the salinity readings, which doubtless included the nitrate level.

So what would I have done if I'd seen an indicated reading of 200ppm of nitrate? Checked the salinity of the tank and taken it from there.
 
Well, again, this is the cart before the horse. The most important parameter in the tank is Oxygen, not conductivity. Oxygen does not dissolve very well in water. The effect of conductivity, and the effect of most other parameter should always be considered within the context of how much Oxygen is available to the fish. What happens in this hobby is that people suffer tunnel vision and focus on only a few parameters almost to the exclusion of the parameters that actually matter most. If you have high Oxygen content, then whatever the negative effects of high conductivity, are mitigated by Oxygen availability, which enables the fish to ward off those effects.

When you feed the plants, conductivity will always rise significantly because these nutrient ions have a powerful electrolytic effect. That's exactly WHY they are nutritious. This nutrition enables the plants to produce more Oxygen via enhanced health.

So in a planted tank, the plants are the infrastructure. You do not have to choose between plants and fish. There is always a happy medium, and this allows the relationship between plants and fish to become more symbiotic and less competitive.

Anything dissolved in the water will raise conductivity, and that includes organic waste from food and fish waste. These products lower the Oxygen content. So if you clean the tank rigorously and dose the nutrients properly, the overall effect will be strongly net positive, because Oxygen availability will be enhanced, and toxicants will be removed, even though conductivity will sharply rise due to nutrient addition. If the plants suffer nutrient deficiency their Oxygen contribution will be lowered and their Oxygen use will actually increase. Their cells die and rot, further lowering the Oxygen content. The contents of their decay will also cause a TDS / Conductivity increase, so this is a worst case scenario of higher than necessary conductivity and low Oxygen content.

These fish from low conductivity water are in top health, some of which even had spawned in very high conductivity water measuring greater than 800 microsiemens. The high conductivity is due to massive nutrient loading, not due to organic waste.
8395165784_b0282135c1_b.jpg



In that same tank Althernanthera, due to the nutrient loading and good CO2 grew to be this:
8395155980_d136571bc6_b.jpg


Cheers,
 
Well, again, this is the cart before the horse. The most important parameter in the tank is Oxygen, not conductivity. Oxygen does not dissolve very well in water. The effect of conductivity, and the effect of most other parameter should always be considered within the context of how much Oxygen is available to the fish. What happens in this hobby is that people suffer tunnel vision and focus on only a few parameters almost to the exclusion of the parameters that actually matter most. If you have high Oxygen content, then whatever the negative effects of high conductivity, are mitigated by Oxygen availability, which enables the fish to ward off those effects.
Some assumptions going on here, you assume my tank has poor DO. Would you also care to enlighten me as to how a wild caught fish from nutrient poor, low conductivity water naturally can use Oxygen to combat osmo-regulatory problems? No amount of DO will affect osmosis if there is a gradient.

When you feed the plants, conductivity will always rise significantly because these nutrient ions have a powerful electrolytic effect. That's exactly WHY they are nutritious. This nutrition enables the plants to produce more Oxygen via enhanced health.
I don’t disagree here, however if I dose my fertilisers (APF Ei) to half the suggested starter recipe and amounts as suggested by Johnny, my conductivity rises, but doesn’t go through the roof, whereas the overdose where the TDS /EC shot right up suggest a hugely excessive amount of fertilisers amounting to basically a waste.

So in a planted tank, the plants are the infrastructure. You do not have to choose between plants and fish. There is always a happy medium, and this allows the relationship between plants and fish to become more symbiotic and less competitive.
I agree again, a happy medium. I found myself in an unhappy position that the balance went too far. To regain the balance, I had to know how the land lay without dosing, and to start again from there which is where I’m at now.

Anything dissolved in the water will raise conductivity, and that includes organic waste from food and fish waste. These products lower the Oxygen content. So if you clean the tank rigorously and dose the nutrients properly, the overall effect will be strongly net positive, because Oxygen availability will be enhanced, and toxicants will be removed, even though conductivity will sharply rise due to nutrient addition. If the plants suffer nutrient deficiency their Oxygen contribution will be lowered and their Oxygen use will actually increase. Their cells die and rot, further lowering the Oxygen content. The contents of their decay will also cause a TDS / Conductivity increase, so this is a worst case scenario of higher than necessary conductivity and low Oxygen content.
I’m fully aware of BOD and the relative extents to what will increase or decrease it. You seem to repeat your point about nutrition here, I’m aware that every living organism needs its own nutrition at a suitable level to grow and sustain itself in a healthy manner. As I have also said, I lost some extremely sensitive fauna because the environment was made unsuitable for them while providing the flora an excess of what they needed. At the time, the plants were growing like weeds, and while they’ve admittedly slowed growth a little of late, they’re far from showing signs of dying off.

You have some stunning looking fish and plants in your photos, and credit to you for maintaining both. I’m very happy with the growth of the plants in my tank and the health of my fish too. You put a very good case, and with good examples, but I can’t, from bitter experience, let my tank reach the conductivity that yours got to. I do challenge you with one example; do you believe you could keep Parosphromenus species in water with a conductivity of 800µS/cm?

With regards to specifically the Alternanthera reineckii, my expectations of the plant were different from the plant behaviour, so hence the original question about the plant. Now the plant itself has decided to show me what it intends to do, I have been able to how it should grow, and time will tell if it was indeed the correct plant for my tank.
 
Some assumptions going on here, you assume my tank has poor DO. Would you also care to enlighten me as to how a wild caught fish from nutrient poor, low conductivity water naturally can use Oxygen to combat osmo-regulatory problems? No amount of DO will affect osmosis if there is a gradient.
I haven't assumed that your tank in particular has poor DO, but that most tanks have poor DO, especially if the temperatures are high, which they usually are, if water changes are few and far between, and especially if the plant health is poor. In any case, fundamentally, when cells are fed Oxygen they function as they were designed. The systems that are in place to protect the fish against environmental stress must have fuel and must burn that fuel efficiently. Oxygen is the key to just about every health issue in the tank. It's not because Oxygen itself takes part in the reactions, but that Oxygen feeds the cells that take part in the regulatory systems. On the other hand, are you assuming that your DO is high? Have you verified? DO is a difficult parameter to measure and the solubility of the gas is very poor. I always assume my DO is poor, so that programs me to do all the things I can to raise it. That's just a personal mindset.

.. if I dose my fertilisers (APF Ei) to half the suggested starter recipe and amounts as suggested by Johnny, my conductivity rises, but doesn’t go through the roof, whereas the overdose where the TDS /EC shot right up suggest a hugely excessive amount of fertilisers amounting to basically a waste.
Well I think that might be an assumption. You have to allow the plants to tell you what is a waste and what isn't. Higher concentrations of nutrients cause a higher nutrient uptake, so the plants may not agree with your opinion. When flow, distribution and nutrient levels are high then there is better performance overall. Again, if you are getting good performance from half dosing then that's fine. What I'm saying is that if we self impose limitations on dosing because of a fear of TDS rise then we generally create more problems than we solve. It may not matter so much in this particular case, but generally it's better to worry about having a clean tank and good plant health, because these are much more important.

I repeat myself regarding nutrient loading because everywhere we have been programmed in the opposite direction and these assumptions have been proven false. Just about every hobbyist, especially those coming from a fish only environment have an ingrained fear of nutrients, whether it's because they are told that nutrients cause algae, or whether they are told that nutrients are toxic to fish - or both. Then these are the same people who suffer fish maladies and algae and other health problems. So I'm always going to repeat myself that nutrients help your planted tank much more than they hurt.

I can't really know what the cause of death was in the case you mentioned. It's always easy to blame nutrient loading for a fishes demise. It's a popular bogie man. Certainly CO2 is highly toxic and this is probably the biggest killer, no argument there. But there is very little evidence of inorganic nutrient loading contributing to death or illness. It's not clear to me if you are saying that you had fatalities and that at the time the TDS was high due to nutrient loading. Is the assumption then that high nutrient loading caused the fatality? People who keep these fish in unplanted tanks suffer numerous fatalities as well.

I offer these example to challenge the notion, and to argue that we need to look elsewhere for the causes. Unlike you, very few people are aware of BOD and that's why the popular notion of maintaining tank parameters such as pH and so forth are a waste of time, because we have no way of measuring the thing that matters most, and that's why overfeeding combined with refusing to do frequent large water changes causes so many problems.

I've never kept Parosphromenus, but I have kept discus, rams and other dwarf chichlids and various soft water species at these levels without any problems, so I can't see why these would be any more difficult, but never having done so means that I don't know the answer. Of course, if my objectives were to breed, then definitely I would lower the TDS, but the fact that I observed spawning behavior in some of these fish in community tanks, even with such high conductivity, is evidence that there are other important factors at play.

Cheers,
 
On the other hand, are you assuming that your DO is high? Have you verified? DO is a difficult parameter to measure and the solubility of the gas is very poor. I always assume my DO is poor, so that programs me to do all the things I can to raise it. That's just a personal mindset.
I did attempt some DO tests, I can't find the exact results that were indicated, and I';m aware it is a very difficult test. I do remember that the results were far from conclusive, but indicated that the DO was fairly saturated and not low, but stuffed if I can remember the values for what they were or weren't worth.

Well I think that might be an assumption. You have to allow the plants to tell you what is a waste and what isn't. Higher concentrations of nutrients cause a higher nutrient uptake, so the plants may not agree with your opinion.
Indeed, plants, as well as all living organisms can tell us how they are doing by showing healthy growth. The levels we feed plants at is quite possibly a huge excess compared to nature, certainly as far as water-borne nutrition concentrations go. Is a high level of nutrition (the excess I referred to) beneficial should it not happen in nature?

When flow, distribution and nutrient levels are high then there is better performance overall.
I agree here, although i would change "..and nutrient levels are high" to "...and nutrient levels are sufficient to not be a limiting factor of plant health".

Again, if you are getting good performance from half dosing then that's fine. What I'm saying is that if we self impose limitations on dosing because of a fear of TDS rise then we generally create more problems than we solve. It may not matter so much in this particular case, but generally it's better to worry about having a clean tank and good plant health, because these are much more important.
As we all know, and I'm sure you have said this yourself, there is no correct level of plant nutrition to add to a given body of water, so the half dose that works for one person, may not be anywhere near enough for another, given comparable settings at least. We should not impose limitations on dosing - until such point we see detriment to something in the aquarium. You have testament to elevated TDS and sensitive species, but you will have over time found the correct balance for your tank, and are able to maintain the tank at a stable level of nutrition and at stable parameters. The tank I have been dosing is relatively recent upgrade for me, so I would (now) prefer to start off with a moderate dose of fertilisers, see how the plants and the fish do, and try increasing the dose and make further observations. Doing what I did to begin with and throwing in a full starter dose turned out to be not the best way to commence things, and I should have known better than to do that.

I can't really know what the cause of death was in the case you mentioned. It's always easy to blame nutrient loading for a fishes demise. It's a popular bogie man.
The TDS of the tank could have been constituted of anything, the fact it was plant nutrient was immaterial to the deaths. I don't believe, like you that nitrate is the bogie man as it is commonly villainised to be. I believe nitrate is the smoking gun that appears after a problem, possibly from an ammonia spike or maybe from insufficient water changing leading to poor water quality. What causes it is always the problem, which then leads back to a "who" in many cases. In my case in the instance I refer to, it was me.

It's not clear to me if you are saying that you had fatalities and that at the time the TDS was high due to nutrient loading. Is the assumption then that high nutrient loading caused the fatality? People who keep these fish in unplanted tanks suffer numerous fatalities as well.
The TDS was high due to a known overdose of nutrition, this could have been picked up on if I'd thought to double check what had been stable water (with regards to TDS and EC) up to that point. It was later I realised that TDS was high, and decided to check certain water parameters to find out what was making it high. Again, I don't rely on chemical tests, and don't get them out too often, but I will use them as a guide if I feel it may help build an idea of what is going on a certain time.

I offer these example to challenge the notion, and to argue that we need to look elsewhere for the causes. Unlike you, very few people are aware of BOD and that's why the popular notion of maintaining tank parameters such as pH and so forth are a waste of time, because we have no way of measuring the thing that matters most, and that's why overfeeding combined with refusing to do frequent large water changes causes so many problems.
It is very easy to have a knee-jerk reaction to the loss of a fish, or a sudden outbreak of algae, and water issues are easily blamed, and it very well could be a water issue, but whether it is down to dosing or not is what needs to be investigated by the aquarium keeper before blaming anything. many aquarists are unaware of BOD as well as a whole host of other issues in the aquarium, and many do not want to know, some just want to buy a tank today, and go buy some fish and plants tomorrow and sit back and hope it deals with itself. Hopefully those who don't know about BOD at least know anbd have learned from experienced keepers that rudimentary tank maintenance is key to a healthy aquarium.

I've never kept Parosphromenus, but I have kept discus, rams and other dwarf chichlids and various soft water species at these levels without any problems, so I can't see why these would be any more difficult, but never having done so means that I don't know the answer. Of course, if my objectives were to breed, then definitely I would lower the TDS, but the fact that I observed spawning behavior in some of these fish in community tanks, even with such high conductivity, is evidence that there are other important factors at play.
A little unfair to throw Paros in on my part. Their normal water parameters very acidic, EC and TDS barely register. There's no earthly way they would survive in anything much higher than that, and certainly not in 800µS/cm water. There is much research to be done on the genus though. They do however make delicate softwater cichlids look like very hardy fish. The fish I lost aren't quite as sensitive as the Paros, but do require very soft and low conductivity water. It may be possible that they could be acclimatised over a great period of time to water with a greater salinity, but being wild imported fish of which very little is known other than an elevated TDS and EC can and will kill them very quickly.

There have been some very good points raised here, and to simplify and summarise for those who don't want to wade though the above exchange, I agree dosing may not have an effect on fish, and is definitely beneficial to healthy plants and in turn beneficial to the aquarium.

However, I also stand by that ferts should not always be dosed in excess, certainly not in the first instance. Increasing fertiliser dosing (slowly) is encouraged of course, but consider what fish you have, and what fish you intend introducing. I'd be uncomfortable introducing a wild caught softwater fish, regardless of its alleged sensitivity in to water that had a very high mineral content compared to the water it had previously been kept in. Any by mineral content I mean either tap water or any aquarium with a heavy dosing regime. I will, especially after recent events, build up my dosing and carry out observations on the aquarium before increasing the amounts.

May I also ask what the plant is in the centre of your top photograph you added to the thread? The photo without the Alternanthera? Thanks :)
 
Yeah, wild caught fish are a delicate proposition at all times and without know much about them I'm sure the mortality rate would be very high, but a lot of that has to do with stress. In any case adaptation is normal as we see from the availability of soft water fish from three different continents which have become commonplace.

The plant in question is a Tropica specimen of Pogostemon Stelleta. It is also shown on the left in the second photo as well.

Cheers,
 
Yeah, wild caught fish are a delicate proposition at all times and without know much about them I'm sure the mortality rate would be very high, but a lot of that has to do with stress. In any case adaptation is normal as we see from the availability of soft water fish from three different continents which have become commonplace.
It's not too bad for the better known genus that are out there, but there's a few tricky ones where little is known about them. If they can be bred in captivity, there's a better chance of the new generation doing better in a wide range of water conditions, but with some species, that has yet to happen.

The plant in question is a Tropica specimen of Pogostemon Stelleta. It is also shown on the left in the second photo as well.
Stunning plant. I picked on the first photo because the detail is very clear.

I (accidentally) kept Paros at pH 7.5, 200ppm for a while. They'll survive, but zero chance of eggs developing.
Wow, that's quite something. I've not kept them myself, but a friend of mine does and hopes to breed them at some point. I'm sure he'll be amazed when I recount what you have said. How did the accidental bit come about?
 
Wow, that's quite something. I've not kept them myself, but a friend of mine does and hopes to breed them at some point. I'm sure he'll be amazed when I recount what you have said. How did the accidental bit come about?

I set up a soil tank believing what it said about pH on the compost package and not testing it myself. Acquired a pH and TDS pen about a year later and found out that actually they'd been in totally unsuitable water. It's all in my Bucket of Mud thread in the featured journals section.
 
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