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Beneficial micro fauna

Tanksy

Member
Joined
7 Sep 2018
Messages
225
Location
Cambridgeshire
I was wondering, which micro fauna is beneficial in a planted tank and is there a way to add it in the system? I'm not talking about culturing critters like daphnia in a container, but having colonies of different beneficial micro organisms in the tank.
Cheers!
 
Hi @FrankR

May I suggest that you search UKAPS for "autotrophic", "nitrifying bacteria"and "Archaea"? Then, search for "heterotrophic bacteria". The first of these convert toxic ammonia to non-toxic nitrate. The second (heterotrophic bacteria) convert organic waste into minerals that fertilize the plants. There are also probiotics, which are rarely used by freshwater aquarists. Once we have a better idea of what you are planning, we can then advise of your available options. You can achieve a great deal without needing to purchase any bacterial supplements.

Finally, how to search on UKAPS. At the top RHS of your screen, you will see a magnifying glass search icon. Click on that and go from there.

JPC
 
Hi all,
I was wondering, which micro fauna is beneficial in a planted tank and is there a way to add it in the system?
I think it will probably build up over time, most established tanks have <"Detritus worms etc"> and if you look at the filter media mulm under a microscope you will find <"plenty of Rotifers and Ciliates">.

You can hasten the process by adding some substrate, or filter mulm, from an established tank, or <"just water/sediment"> from a small pond, water butt (or even a bird bath). Ideally you want a source without fish, but if it did have fish? I wouldn't be too bothered.

I also deliberately introduce some <"tank janitors">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

I think it will probably build up over time, most established tanks have <"Detritus worms etc"> and if you look at the filter media mulm under a microscope you will find <"plenty of Rotifers and Ciliates">.

You can hasten the process by adding some substrate, or filter mulm, from an established tank, or <"just water/sediment"> from a small pond, water butt (or even a bird bath). Ideally you want a source without fish, but if it did have fish? I wouldn't be too bothered.

I also deliberately introduce some <"tank janitors">.

cheers Darrel
That's exactly what I'm talking about. Copepods, daphnia, seed shrimp, etc. But I'm interested in adding only the "good" bugs. Not only as janitors, but as fish food as well.
So, in order to deliberately introduce them to my system, I just collect some sediment from a small pond? I guess I'm going to need a microscope to identify them.
Cheers!
 
Hi all,
But I'm interested in adding only the "good" bugs. Not only as janitors, but as fish food as well.
That is the issue, personally I'm willing to take the risk, but against that most/all? of my tanks have/had <"Hydra, Planaria"> and <"Leeches">.

I also had a moment when I thought I might have added the the <"Killer Shrimp">, but fortunately I hadn't.

cheers Darrel
 
Right! I went to a nearby pond and collected a small jar (~250ml) of sediment and a bottle (500 ml) of water.
I must say, it was a bit of a disappointment. The only living things in there were 1 leech and a couple of mussels. Nothing else moving in the water column or wriggling in the muck. Hmmmm...
 
If I buy some live copepods and daphnia, do you reckon they'll survive or multiply in my aquarium?
You have a Fluval 107 on a 30 cm cube, so you water is being cycled roughly 26 times per hour, or roughly every 2 minutes and 20 seconds. Daphnia will simply get sucked into the filter, and how would you feed them. Copepods like cyclops will have less of a tendency to be sucked in because they like to attach to surfaces. Certain smaller species of Ostracods might be okay when they live in the substrates and cannot get swept into the filter.
I add bee pollen or sometimes moist garden soil (link).
 
I have copepods in the Shrimphaus (Copacetic copepods - Fireplace aquarium) but in this setup there is no filter the water is forced through that would strain them out. I'm not sure where they came from (I suspect with initial shipment of shrimp) but they're interesting to watch. Mostly they are highly jerky white specklike sub-millimetre dots in usually the water column but occasionally on the glass walls of the aquarium. Fish will apparently eat them but Shrimphaus is shrimp only since fish also eat shrimp! If you want this type of visible yet sub-macroscopic resident in your tank you just need to make sure the filter media is corse enough to let them pass through - plastic filter rings or balls would be fine.
 
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Hi all,

The Archaea, Bacteria, Rotifers and Protists etc., that are too small to easily see, but may be important <"for tank stability">.

Cheers Darrel
I should have mentioned that I've dark started my tank for 3 months before planting, so, I guess all the beneficial bacteria are already there.

You have a Fluval 107 on a 30 cm cube, so you water is being cycled roughly 26 times per hour, or roughly every 2 minutes and 20 seconds. Daphnia will simply get sucked into the filter, and how would you feed them. Copepods like cyclops will have less of a tendency to be sucked in because they like to attach to surfaces. Certain smaller species of Ostracods might be okay when they live in the substrates and cannot get swept into the filter.
I add bee pollen or sometimes moist garden soil (link).
Fluval 107 has a flow rate of 550l when empty, I assume the actual flow (taking into account the filter media and the reduced diameter of the lily pipes) is about 2/3 of the manufacturer's figure. That means the water's cycled roughly 13-15 times per hour. But you're right about daphnia getting sucked into the filter.

I have copepods in the Shrimphaus (Copacetic copepods - Fireplace aquarium) but in this setup there is no filter the water is forced through that would strain them out. I'm not sure where they came from (I suspect with initial shipment of shrimp) but they're interesting to watch. Mostly they are highly jerky white specklike sub-millimetre dots in usually the water column but occasionally on the glass walls of the aquarium. Fish will apparently eat them but Shrimphaus is shrimp only since fish also eat shrimp! If you want this type of visible yet sub-microscopic resident in your tank you just need to make sure the filter media is corse enough to let them pass through - plastic filter rings or balls would be fine.
I see your point. The filter media is mainly foam, filter floss and lava rock. So, yeah, the filter floss has to be removed.
 
Hi all,
I should have mentioned that I've dark started my tank for 3 months before planting, so, I guess all the beneficial bacteria are already there.
This is back to the <"binary switch, cycled - non-cycled"> debate. I'd guess that
Have a look at <"Time and the disappearance of algae">

cheers Darrel
 
I can't guarantee anything, but you're welcome to a couple cups of the water and whatever might be in there.
That sounds scary 🙂

Hi all,

This is back to the <"binary switch, cycled - non-cycled"> debate. I'd guess that
Have a look at <"Time and the disappearance of algae">

cheers Darrel
Thank you for the links. I'm aware that my system is not mature/stable yet. That's why I'm trying to increase its biodiversity. Well, as much as possible in a 30 l cube.
 
So, I had a closer look at the sediment that I collected from the pond. I noticed some trails in the muck. There are living things in there after all. That snail on my hand (last photo) is about 1 mm long.

IMG_5444.jpg IMG_5447.jpg IMG_5448.jpg IMG_5449.jpg IMG_5446.jpg
 
The first creature (first and second photo) is a European Fingernail Clam (Sphaerium Corneum). It's a filter feeder, so I guess it's ok to add it to my tank.
That worm (third photo) is probably an Eiseniella Tetrahedra and it grows up to 8cm. Too big for my nano? Probably. So, not ok.
The snails in the 4th and 5th photos are most probably Dwarf Pond Snails (Galba Truncatula). They can reproduce very quickly and therefore get out of control. Also, they can eat plants if there's not enough algae. Definitely not ok!
However, I've found out that Britain has its own Nerite snail which is widespread in Central and Southern England. Hmmm...
 
On the right we have a clam from the genus Sphaerium. The European fingernail clam - Sphaerium corneum is rather common, and I expect this species is endemic also. You can see numerous growth rings, and clearly there was a period when it adapted to differing environmental conditions, possibly when the clam was around five or ten years old. This could have been due to a drought, pollution event, or a hard winter. This picture below is not from the same genus, but shows how you can count the rings to estimate the age your clam. I am guessing it is at least 25 years old!
1653345076482.png
On the right we have the native snail Bithynia leachii. These are very common. I once dredged 3 kg of gravel from a very small seasonal stream and there were hundreds of individuals that lived inside the gravel layer.

The middle picture is from the family Naididae (and now includes the subfamily Tubificidae - tubifex worms). You can see a segmented body, the redness caused by high levels of haemoglobin, and part of the mud case stuck to the bottom segment of the worm where it secretes the most mucus. They should wave their heads to circulate water in order to achieve oxygen from waterbodies with low oxygen levels; they have both a physiological and behavioural adaptation to live in that environment. There are about a dozen species in the Tubifex genus, including one called Tubifex tubifex, but they are relatively hard to identify. If you have a microscope then you might be able to count the bristles (hairs) that provide traction for burrowing into the sediment, in order to identify the worm species that you have, but I am fairly certain it is going to be from that genus. We don't know much about their sexual reproduction, but usually they can divide and grow a new head, so that one worm can become two, so on and so forth. I had some dero worms turn up in my aquarium once using bee pollen and was very excited.
 
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