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Best way to raise GH/KH in a heavily planted tank?

So, with my above listed tap water perimeters, should I leave it as is for the shrimp or boost the GH a bit and the calcium in turn? It sounds like the KH is ok? I read all of the suggestions but, all I have available in house is Seachem Equilibrium & Baking Soda. Anything else will get here after the shrimp and I don't want to change anything once they are settling in. So, if I am going to boost, I'd like to start tomorrow with my water change. Thanks for the help guys👍.
 
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So, I decided to leave my tap water alone for the introduction guys. The shrimp are doing good so far and enjoying their new home. I got them a bunch of Glasgarten products to help keep them healthy.

But, due to the low Tap Water GH, the fact that I have a ton of Mountain Stone in most of my tanks(likely leaching Calcium), and the fact that some of my plants are showing light leaves with dark veins, I think I have a Magnesium deficiency.

So, what is the best way to handle this? I'm guessing Magnesium Sulfate USP? How do I know how much to add? Would this test kit be of use to determine my ratio or at least how low my Mag is/high my Cal is?

Monitor Calcium/Magnesium Low Salinity (0-5 PPT) Test KIT (120 Tests) - Monitor Aquarium and aquaculture Water Quality https://a.co/d/3ZNBYfW

Thanks for all of the help guys👍.
 
Hi all,
and the fact that some of my plants are showing light leaves with dark veins, I think I have a Magnesium deficiency.
Is it the <"old leaves or the new leaves">? This is <"quite important">, but assuming <"it is the older leaves">?

20180204_130413-jpg.113076

<"Cryptocoryne beckettii 'Petchii'>, <"showing chlorosis"> in the older leaves.
So, what is the best way to handle this? I'm guessing Magnesium Sulfate
Yes, "Epsom Salts" - magnesium sulphate heptahydrate (MgSO4.7H20). They are <"about 10% magnesium (Mg)"> and you need to <"aim for 5 - 10 ppm">, I'm going to tell you that the exact amount (or ratio of Ca : Mg etc) doesn't really matter, others may differ in their opinion.
Would this test kit be of use to determine my ratio or at least how low my Mag is/high my Cal is?
I wouldn't even try and get a value, magnesium is easy to test for with analytical kit <"New bit of kit - MP-AES">, but much trickier with wet chemistry. Can you get figures from your water supplier?

The good thing is that magnesium is mobile within the plant. This means that when it stops being <"Liebig's limiting nutrient"> you get <"pretty instant greening">.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,

Is it the <"old leaves or the new leaves">? This is <"quite important">, but assuming <"it is the older leaves">?

20180204_130413-jpg.113076

<"Cryptocoryne beckettii 'Petchii'>, <"showing chlorosis"> in the older leaves.
Well, I'm not 100% sure Darrel but, I'm pretty sure you are the guy to ask😁. This is what got me worried. Now, I need to preface that this Hastifolia has been moved and re-glued multiple times recently and I'm not sure if that could have caused it.

Those worst leaf is the newest growth but, the leaf has been open for at least a month I would say.

This is also an issue(light leaves on the new growth of my Salvinia Aruculata)...

Yes, "Epsom Salts" - magnesium sulphate heptahydrate (MgSO4.7H20). They are <"about 10% magnesium (Mg)"> and you need to <"aim for 5 - 10 ppm">, I'm going to tell you that the exact amount (or ratio of Ca : Mg etc) doesn't really matter, others may differ in their opinion.
The stuff I have in my closet here doesn't have Chemical name. It just says Magnesium Sulfate USP. It has no smell. Think I'm good?

I wouldn't even try and get a value, magnesium is easy to test for with analytical kit <"New bit of kit - MP-AES">, but much trickier with wet chemistry. Can you get figures from your water supplier?
I'm not sure. I couldn't find any online water reports but, maybe if I emailed? I was trying to avoid the hassle if I could do my own testing but, will investigate if I have to.
The good thing is that magnesium is mobile within the plant. This means that when it stops being <"Liebig's limiting nutrient"> you get <"pretty instant greening">.
Right. That would mean if I am right, the leaves will get green throughout again correct?
cheers Darrel
Thanks Darrel, you are so helpful🙏. I'd really appreciate any advice on a course of action here. Now that I have all of my tanks finished(adding the final additions Thursday - 12 x Trigonostigma Heteromorphabin my 60cm) I am really invested in upping my water chemistry game to really refine things. I'm lucky as I have pretty good tap water so, I don't think it will take much. Here is a pic today of my main display tank(same one as pics above). Things are going pretty well so far aside from the above issues(and the standard fight to get the lighting intensity just right lol)...



Thank you again for all of your advice, help, and links sir👍.
 
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Hi all,
The stuff I have in my closet here doesn't have Chemical name. It just says Magnesium Sulfate USP. It has no smell. Think I'm good?
Yes, that is the one and 10% magnesium (Mg).
This is also an issue(light leaves on the new growth of my Salvinia Aruculata)...
New leaves look a bit pale, which probably suggests a deficiency of iron (Fe)? Uptake of both iron (Fe) and magnesium (Mg) is reduced in calcium (Ca) rich water.
I'm not sure. I couldn't find any online water reports but, maybe if I emailed? I was trying to avoid the hassle if I could do my own testing but, will investigate if I have to.
If you can't get a report I wouldn't worry, just add ~10 ppm (mg / L) Mg and see what happens.
Right. That would mean if I am right, the leaves will get green throughout again correct?
Yes, but if it's an iron (Fe) deficiency only the new leaves (that grow after iron is no longer the limiting nutrient) that will be greener.
Here is a pic today of my main display tank(same one as pics above). Things are going pretty well so far aside from the above issues(and the standard fight to get the lighting intensity just right lol)...
I'd be happy with that.
I am really invested in upping my water chemistry game to really refine things. I'm lucky as I have pretty good tap water so, I don't think it will take much
It is much easier to <"add things to soft water">, than take them away from hard water, so you have a good starting point.

I don't test the tank water very often. This isn't because I'm not interested in water chemistry, I'm very interested, but even with access to a water testing lab. considerable time and expense is involved. Both Estimative and Duckweed Indices were developed partially to do away with the <"requirement for water testing">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

Yes, that is the one and 10% magnesium (Mg).
Ok, perfect thanks.
New leaves look a bit pale, which probably suggests a deficiency of iron (Fe)? Uptake of both iron (Fe) and magnesium (Mg) is reduced in calcium (Ca) rich water.
Yes, that's what I was thinking too as the new leaves are more pale in the tanks with Mountain/Seiru Stone in them which is notorious for leaching Calcium.

I have a brand new unopened bottle of Seachem Flourish Iron(Ferrous Gluconate) that I bought just in case of this problem as I heard, just like Iron Chelate DTPA, it is better absorbed in a high Calcium environment.

Do you think I should start dosing or concentrate on one thing at a time and get the possible Magnesium deficiency sorted first and then look at the possible Fe deficiency?
If you can't get a report I wouldn't worry, just add ~10 ppm (mg / L) Mg and see what happens.
Copy that, will do👍.
Yes, but if it's an iron (Fe) deficiency only the new leaves (that grow after iron is no longer the limiting nutrient) that will be greener.
Copy that. Because Iron is an immobile nutrient where as Magnesium is a mobile one correct?
I'd be happy with that.
Thanks, I'm giving it my best👍. I think if I can get these last issues sorted, it will really shine(with much more time of course as the tank was started only 20 days ago).
It is much easier to <"add things to soft water">, than take them away from hard water, so you have a good starting point.
Yes, I think I got pretty lucky with my tap water. I don't see a need for a RODI system in my future thankfully.
I don't test the tank water very often. This isn't because I'm not interested in water chemistry, I'm very interested, but even with access to a water testing lab. considerable time and expense is involved. Both Estimative and Duckweed Indices were developed partially to do away with the <"requirement for water testing">.

cheers Darrel
Yes, I have been following your advice and have discontinued most testing(aside from Ammonia & Nitrite on these new tanks to keep the wildlife safe). I am really liking your suggested "plant reading" /Duckweed Index system much better and have been using it. I can't help but, long for numbers sometimes still though lol. It's just so hard for a technical guy like me to not know exactly what's going on in there so I can micromanage. I do understand now though that it really isn't necessary most of the time and aquatic plants are pretty forgiving when it comes to dosing. Hopefully if I can get these issues sorted, find the perfect blend of a quality AIO mixed with a little Magnesium Sulfate & Iron Gluconate, so I can get back to learning about other aspects of the hobby. One day I will order some more dry salts and start learning to mix my own ferts.

Cheers, and thanks again🍻.
 
Hi all,
It's just so hard for a technical guy like me to not know exactly what's going on in there so I can micromanage.
I understand that, I'd still be happier with ,"some empirical figures"> I <"could trust">, it is the <"I could trust"> bit that is problematic. Since I've spent time with ecologists I've been more willinging to use probability <"and inferential techniques">.
Copy that. Because Iron is an immobile nutrient where as Magnesium is a mobile one correct?
Yes.
Do you think I should start dosing or concentrate on one thing at a time and get the possible Magnesium deficiency sorted first and then look at the possible Fe deficiency?
Just start dosing. If it is iron it will take a while for the plants to green up, if it is magnesium it will happen pretty quickly. I'm not too bothered about diagnosing exactly what is missing, you have a lot of possibilities.

That is one of the advantages of the "Duckweed Index", <"the plants can't lie">, if they are green and growing, they have everything they need. If they aren't? They don't. If you like <"they are your test kit">.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,

I understand that, I'd still be happier with ,"some empirical figures"> I <"could trust">, it is the <"I could trust"> bit that is problematic. Since I've spent time with ecologists I've been more willinging to use probability <"and inferential techniques">.
Yes, I definitely see the value in inferential techniques(had to look up the definition lol). The more I learn from you and others, the more I see the reason you chose your methods. Also, the more I adopt them myself. Darn it, I thought those College level Chemistry & Biology courses would be more useful in this hobby lol... Still glad I took them though.
I'm learning slowly but, surely😁.
Just start dosing. If it is iron it will take a while for the plants to green up, if it is magnesium it will happen pretty quickly. I'm not too bothered about diagnosing exactly what is missing, you have a lot of possibilities.
Will do. I just need to sort out how much Epsom & Gluconate to start with. I'll shoot for 10ppm increase in Mg like you suggested(I just need to figure out how much per liter that equals). And, for the Seachem Iron, is there a good starting dose or should I get an Iron Test Kit to monitor level? I'm guessing a starting dose is fine as we are trying not to use test kits correct😁? I will be getting some dry salt for this at least when then Seachem runs.
That is one of the advantages of the "Duckweed Index", <"the plants can't lie">, if they are green and growing, they have everything they need. If they aren't? They don't. If you like <"they are your test kit">.

cheers Darrel
Yep, it sure seams like plant growth is by far the best test kit. Thanks again Darrel👍.
 
1 teaspoon or 5g of mgso4 (epsom salts) in 100L of water will raise magnesium levels by approximately 5ppm. Not sure how many litres your tank holds but you should be able to work it out from that. 👍
Thanks for the help👍.

Yep, should be able to figure it out from there. Is upping Mg levels by 10ppm something that could cause problems with my wildlife? Do I need to slowly increase the levels over a period of time like pH, temp, TDS, etc?

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the help👍.

Yep, should be able to figure it out from there. Is upping Mg levels by 10ppm something that could cause problems with my wildlife? Do I need to slowly increase the levels over a period of time like pH, temp, TDS, etc?

Thanks again.
Its usually a good idea to change things slowly... That said, a 5-10 ppm Mg increase over say the course of a week shouldn't be a problem at all - just divvy it up in say 2 dosage increases.

Cheers,
Michael
 
Its usually a good idea to change things slowly... That said, a 5-10 ppm Mg increase over say the course of a week shouldn't be a problem at all - just divvy it up in say 2 dosage increases.

Cheers,
Michael
Copy, that's what I figured. Thanks for the help again Michael👍.
 
Ok, I think I have my dosing figured out.

So, this is what I'm going to work up to by the end of the week(daily dose)...

1mL APT E
1.3mL Seachem Flourish Excel
1.4mL Seachem Flourish Iron
5.3grams MgSO4(just to confirm I add 10ppm daily or every water change for this?)

My tanks approximate total actual water volume is 53liters.

How does this sound? Should I split this dosing up a certain way? Are there any interactions I need to know about? I was thinking of dosing the APT E & Excel in the morning and the Ferrous Gluconate & MgSO4 in the evening. Does that sound like a good plan?

Thanks for the help again guys👍.
 
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So, this is what I'm going to work up to by the end of the week(daily dose)...

1mL APT E
I understand this is a low-tech tank, right? If so....

Each 5ml per 100L dose of APT E adds 5ppm Potassium (K), 4.6ppm Nitrogen (NO3), 1.5ppm Phosphorus (PO4), 0.16ppm Iron (Fe), 0.4ppm Magnesium and additional amounts of Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo) and Zinc (Zn).

The above dosage is designed to be dosed 3 times a week. So the total per week adds up to: 15ppm Potassium (K), 13.8ppm Nitrogen (NO3), 4.5ppm Phosphorus (PO4), 0.48ppm Iron (Fe), 1.2ppm Magnesium (Mg) and additional amounts of Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo) and Zinc (Zn).


Just following the dosing instruction will give you more than enough of everything your plants will ever need (except for Mg if your water source is short).

1.3mL Seachem Flourish Excel

I personally never had any success from using it, but others around here have. If you have any mosses I strongly discourage you from using it. It killed my moss and most likely my Vals.
The active ingredient in Seachem Flourish Excel is glutaraldehyde... If I had known what it was back in the day I would never have used it... its nasty stuff, so make sure you use it in a ventilated environment and wash your hands carefully afterwards.

CDC advice:

"CAS No. 111-30-8

Glutaraldehyde, C5H8O2 or OCH(CH₂)₃CHO, is a transparent oily, liquid with a pungent odor. Exposure to glutaraldehyde may cause the following symptoms: throat and lung irritation, asthma and difficulty breathing, dermatitis, nasal irritation, sneezing, wheezing, burning eyes, and conjunctivitis. Workers may be harmed from exposure to glutaraldehyde. Workers can be exposed to glutaraldehyde through inhalation or skin contact. The level of exposure depends upon the dose, duration, and work being done."



1.4mL Seachem Flourish Iron

Again, if this is a low tech tank there is no reason to add Flourish Iron as you will get plenty of Fe from ATP E - yes, if your water is hard or high pH Gluconate based Fe is very easy to suck up for the plants but otherwise you do not need to add it on top of what ATP E provides.

5.3grams MgSO4(just to confirm I add 10ppm daily or every water change for this?)
Definitely NOT daily. That would accumulate into 70 ppm minus uptake and a staggering 90 ppm of Sulphate (the S in MgSO4) per week. Assuming your doing 50% WC per week, I would just add ~2,5 g to the WC water (or right after WC) - the accumulation would be 9.0 ppm minus uptake which is a lot and perfectly fine.
Does that sound like a good plan?

To me it sounds like you just want to stick to the advised APT E dosing and some additional Mg, with your MgSo4 dosing. that your water source may be short of. Everything else comes with balanced light levels, proper nutrient distribution, consistent maintenance and maturity of the tank.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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I understand this is a low-tech tank, right? If so....
Yep, no bottle... Yet...😈
Each 5ml per 100L dose of APT E adds 5ppm Potassium (K), 4.6ppm Nitrogen (NO3), 1.5ppm Phosphorus (PO4), 0.16ppm Iron (Fe), 0.4ppm Magnesium and additional amounts of Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo) and Zinc (Zn).

The above dosage is designed to be dosed 3 times a week. So the total per week adds up to: 15ppm Potassium (K), 13.8ppm Nitrogen (NO3), 4.5ppm Phosphorus (PO4), 0.48ppm Iron (Fe), 1.2ppm Magnesium (Mg) and additional amounts of Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo) and Zinc (Zn).


Just following the dosing instruction will give you more than enough of everything your plants will ever need (except for Mg if your water source is short).
Sorry, that was supposed to say APT 3. I switched to it from APT E as an experiment 8 days ago and saw an immediate loss of colour in new growth. When I was using APT E, I also saw Iron deficiency symptoms in one of my tanks with large leafed plants(Anubias Hastifolia). So, with my possibly extremely high Calcium levels(leaching from my Seiru Stone and increasing TDS from 45ppm to 140ish) I think even with APT E I am not as plentiful on Iron as one way think. Either way, I have switched back to APT E with my water change yesterday. I will wait two weeks and observe new growth, then add a daily dose of Seachem Iron for two weeks and observe the change to see if there is any improvement over APT E alone(I know I could also just up the dose of E). That should let me know exactly where I stand on Iron in this tank I'm thinking.
I personally never had any success from using it, but others around here have. If you have any mosses I strongly discourage you from using it. It killed my moss and most likely my Vals.
The active ingredient in Seachem Flourish Excel is glutaraldehyde... If I had known what it was back in the day I would never have used it... its nasty stuff, so make sure you use it in a ventilated environment and wash your hands carefully afterwards.

CDC advice:

"CAS No. 111-30-8

Glutaraldehyde, C5H8O2 or OCH(CH₂)₃CHO, is a transparent oily, liquid with a pungent odor. Exposure to glutaraldehyde may cause the following symptoms: throat and lung irritation, asthma and difficulty breathing, dermatitis, nasal irritation, sneezing, wheezing, burning eyes, and conjunctivitis. Workers may be harmed from exposure to glutaraldehyde. Workers can be exposed to glutaraldehyde through inhalation or skin contact. The level of exposure depends upon the dose, duration, and work being done."
There is a ton of dis and misinformation surrounding this product fyi. I would dig deeper Michael. I'm no expert and already forget half of my research but here are some things...

Excel is not Glutaraldehyde it is Polycycloglutaracetal which is more stable and safer to use. Even Glutaraldehyde itself in diluted form is not that dangerous and is routinely used in the medical and other fields. The alarmism surrounding its use, in diluted form, in the aquarium hobby is unwarranted and silly imo.

Research into this compound was contracted by Seachem to Tom Barr who extensively tested it. He is bound by a non-disclosure agreement but, has since spoken highly of it a number of times. As have many other prominent voices(some on this site).

Many controlled experiments have been done by hobbiests(ie: two identical tanks, one with one without) that easly prove its efficiency in both algae reduction and carbon addition.

I have personally used it, at the suggested dosage, for around 3 months in a tank with 2 different species of moss(one of them Vesicularia Ferriei which is a medium/hard level moss that is hard to grow in low tech) and it has been a great addition and my tank is thriving(plants and wildlife). Here...


I was able to go higher with my lighting intensity without CO2 deficiency symptoms in my Rotala & Rotala Green as well since adding it. Algae was reduced and easier to manage in my estimations as well. The only way it hurts the moss is if I spot treat by dripping pure Excel directly in the moss and even then it quickly bounces back.

There is a lot more to this topic too but, there are a few points. There is a ton of interesting discussion out there if you dig. Considering the benefits, I have decided to use it for now but, will likely discontinue use eventually(especially if it starts to hurt any of the 4 species of moss I am growing in this particular tank). I plan to eventually go minimalist and use only dry salts in all of my tanks.
Again, if this is a low tech tank there is no reason to add Flourish Iron as you will get plenty of Fe from ATP E - yes, if your water is hard or high pH Gluconate based Fe is very easy to suck up for the plants but otherwise you do not need to add it on top of what ATP E provides.
I hope that is the case. But, I still need to use up this APT 3 and it causes iron deficiencies in my plants so it's either up the dose adding a bunch of stuff thats unnecessary, or just use the suggested dose and top up the Iron with Flourish Iron. All of these bottles need to get used up before I order dry salts anyway.
Definitely NOT daily. That would accumulate into 70 ppm minus uptake and a staggering 90 ppm of Sulphate (the S in MgSO4) per week. Assuming your doing 50% WC per week, I would just add ~2,5 g to the WC water (or right after WC) - the accumulation would be 9.0 ppm minus uptake which is a lot and perfectly fine.
That's what I figured lol. I added 2.5grams yesterday after my water change before I read this. I'll go with this dosage and see what happens👍.
To me it sounds like you just want to stick to the advised APT E dosing and some additional Mg, with your MgSo4 dosing. that your water source may be short of. Everything else comes with balanced light levels, proper nutrient distribution, consistent maintenance and maturity of the tank.

Cheers,
Michael
Yes, I'm looking to keep feeding simple for now(as simple as daily feeding can be lol) until I decide to try and mix my own from dry salts. No rush to do that either. I'm just going to order 2-4L of NilocG's Thrive for this year and top up if needed with the Seachem products I have in house.

So, the question remains about interactions. Should the APT E, Excel, & MgSO4 be dosed at seperate times? Or is it ok to add all three at once after a water change?

Thanks again for all of your posts Michael, they have been quite helpful👍.
 
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Excel is not Glutaraldehyde it is Polycycloglutaracetal which is more stable and safer to use.
I believe Polycycloglutaracetal is Seachems trademark for a compound very similar - if not essentially identical to Glutaraldehyde. In fact, it carries the exact same EC/CAS designation. Here is the safety data sheet on Sechem Excel just in case anyone is wondering whether this product merits precaution.

I plan to eventually go minimalist and use only dry salts in all of my tanks.
Thats what a lot of us are doing. Much cheaper, easier to manage and tweak when you first get it going.

So, the question remains about interactions. Should the APT E, Excel, & MgSO4 be dosed at seperate times? Or is it ok to add all three at once after a water change?
You can dose the APT with the MgSO4 together. That shouldn't be a problem in terms of interaction. I don't know about Excel interaction with other compounds.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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I believe Polycycloglutaracetal is Seachems trademark for a compound very similar - if not essentially identical to Glutaraldehyde. In fact, it carries the exact same EC/CAS designation. Here is the safety data sheet on Sechem Excel just in case anyone is wondering whether this product merits precaution.
Again, I think you need to do more research on this topic. There has been many interesting posts on here alone from Clive and I believe Darrel as well, I suggest you read them. Not to mention tons of discussion by Tom Barr and many other legends in the field. Much higher concentrations are used in the medical and other fields(disinfecting dental and medical tools for one and they go in your mouth and body right after) then we see in aquarium products and have been used safely for many years. You can find a bad msds report for almost any chemical but, concentrations mean a lot... Imo Excel or Glut in an aquarium specific concentration is less dangerous then most of the chemical/cleaning products in your house/garage. But hey, it's your tanks and your decision if you want to use it or not. It's also your decision to believe the alarmists or look at the science...
Thats what a lot of us are doing. Much cheaper, easier to manage and tweak when you first get it going.
Yep, one day I will likely end up there too but, for now I have decided there are more important things to learn and refine first. Not to mention I'm only looking at about $30 for a year's worth of fert at inflated aquarium AIO prices for the tanks I'm currently running. My plants are growing well and I haven't even got the fert dialed in yet. So, if this addition of Mg stops the veining in my hastifolias and I can get good growth with just an AIO and MgSO4 then I am done tweeking for the near future and am going to concentrate on other aspects of the hobby.
You can dose the APT with the MgSO4 together. That shouldn't be a problem in terms of interaction. I don't know about Excel interaction with other compounds.

Cheers,
Michael
Ok thanks, will do👍. I just wanted to make sure I'm dosing with the most effective method.

Thanks again Michael, I'll post how things work out after a bit of using the new dosing🙏.
 
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