• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

CHIHIROS 2 WRGB PRO 30 SETTINGS

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gee
  • Start date Start date

Gee

Member
Joined
12 Jun 2015
Messages
26
Location
NYC
Hello I have a new Chihiros WRGB II PRO 30 and I am trying to get the best settings to grow my plants healthy and no issues.
I have a cube 15x15x15 and I have planted Dwarf Baby Tears - Mix Buscephalandras - Anubias Petite - Xmas Moss and some few stem plants, I am running the lights for two weeks already (8 hour/day)
no issues with water (I test every week) I also running C02 some plants looks not normal and the baby tears are getting like brown or pale / dark brown (not melting but not growing) the thing is I am looking for the right
and best settings for the phone appl specially how much % for the white. I tried 100% and lowered to 70% and I think I am burning some plants with that settings specially the baby tears.
I was trying the light calculator on this forum but I dont have all the tech info. If anybody have more experience and you have a Chihiros Pro I will appreciate the help

Thanks!!
 
I’m a bit confused, is your 15x15x15 cm or inches as you say you have the Chihiros 30?

I tried to find the same info as yours when I got my light 6 weeks ago. In the end I went with about third on each of the 4 colour channels. Ram it like that for 4 weeks and now 2 or 3 times a week I increase all the values by 1.
 
Thank you for replying! So the tank size is in inches measurements sorry about that!
When you say you went using a third on each color do you mean 20 or 30%..?
Also I am just using the original steal glass mount so that is about 4.5 or 5 inches from the water surface
 
Really!!😧😲 and you have a PRO 90! that is very low!!. well i dont know your tank size but still
mine it is about 20 gallons so I guess I should bring it down to 10 or 15 LOL.
I will try like you said bring it down as much is possible and bring it up slowly!!
Thank you for the tips I appreciated
 
These are my settings
 

Attachments

  • IMG_E3717.JPG
    IMG_E3717.JPG
    89.6 KB · Views: 249
Will depend if you are co2 or not but that's probably a lot of light either way @Gee

For reference I've just started a non co2 tank 60x36x30cm with a Vivid mini (no white channel) and these are the settings I've ran for the first 2 weeks, best starting off lower and working upScreenshot_20230308_204430_My Chihiros.jpg
 
Mmmmmhh.???🤔 no WHITE!! I though you need white also for the Photosynthesis
Yes! I am running CO2 while the lights are on.
How many gallons is that I am in the US and what types of plans do you have in your tank?
 
For clarity, my tank is 90 x 45 x 45 (36 x 18 x 18")
Running CO2 On - 90 mins before light ramp up and Off - 90 min before lights off, i.e. 10.30am - 7pm
RO / Soft water.
Tank is only 6 weeks old and after the Cyano disaster that was the last one, I am being cautious on the lighting 🙂
 
Thank you guys for the info this will help me from now on to have a better idea how to fix my light issues
I was using a Twinstar before and since it die on me I decide to try the Chihiros wich it has good reviews.
 
This is my Cube tank with the new light setting I lowered all the lights and I am no used to the new low light 🙄
hopefully I will see improvement in couple of weeks 🥱

1678313006905.jpeg
 
Mmmmmhh.???🤔 no WHITE!! I though you need white also for the Photosynthesis

1678325051619.png
For this we need Dr Bruce Bugbee's help!.
As shown in this screenshot, there is no 'white' light in this chart, only EM waves between 300-800nm

I have a 36x18x18 (90P) tank with 2 lights,

1 WRGB 2 Pro at the front about 80% average, and 1 WRGB 2 (non-pro) at the back also around 80%.

My reasoning is that the back of my tank has taller plants which are closer to the light, so using a less powerful light like WRGB2 (non-pro) is good enough. p.s. Its good that I checked my settings - slippery fingers causes a spike to the white light setting of the wrgb2pro just before lights off - so I'll need to fix that 🙂

wrgb2.jpg wrgb2pro.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wow, 2 lights on the same size tank as I have, I obviously don’t have mine bright enough.


Prequisites for strong shoots are medium to high light intensity as well as a nutritious substrate. If the plants are positioned in too dark a spot, they will remain small and the leaves on the lower stem segments will tend to blacken...
It depends on whether you have plants that require high light intensity. Two lights also reduces the risk of shading which adversely affects some stems. For example, this is the entry on A.Pedicatella in Aquarium Plants by Kasselmann: So for me the extra light is not so much for the top of the plants, but to ensure that the whole stem receives the light that it needs.

Light intensity also affects the colouration of some plants. Once I let my Rotala Macandra get shaded by taller neighbouring stems, they turned green.
 
Last edited:
I completely take on board your points erwin, to me it just seems incredible that on your size tank (same as mine) you'd need this much lighting.
The "Pro" is so powerful that I'm amazed you'd need any more if running at full power. The point about a more balanced light makes a lot of sense though. I'm absolutely sure that 2 lights running at 50% will give a more even spread and better results than the single stip through the middle.
As you can see from my photo above, I'm getting pretty good reds from the plants, a natural red. I'm not looking for the unnatural "overly saturated" look that some people strive for in planted aquariums. To me, that takes me back to my reefkeeping days, whether use of certain light wavelengths forced corals to produce bright colours, outside of what you'd see in the sea.
I'm inspired by you to turn my lights up a bit more, but as I said previously, I am a little worried about the newness of my tank and encouraging algae.
 
I have also been considering whether I can make it brighter by removing the frosted plastic and replacing it with clear perspex. That would boost the light levels but the bare bulbs will cause a 'shimmering effect' which some people like and some don't.

As for light levels, I guess the principle is to give plants what they need. Plants in the "difficult" category (according to flowgrow database), usually need more light than the typical aquatic plant.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top