Cliff & Plateau

[McCarthy]

The Kitchen tank started to grow algae because that stupid Ecotech Radion light system with the Ecotech Reeflink wireless controller screwed up.

I set the light output to 6 hours and only 27% based on doylecolmdoyle's suggestion. When I saw the algae, I kept a closer look at the tank just to find out that the f-word Ecotech Reeflink controller never updated the time and light schedule, not only that, it even managed to load a schedule that put MORE light out at almost 60%.

Then I tried to program the module again through the iPhone app and it still wouldn't use my new schedule the next day even though it said "Saved" on the screen. Tried again through their cloud based website, said again "Saved" and on the next day it was grilling the tank AGAIN! Then I tried to turn off the light with the manual buttons and this freaking piece of crap turn back on automatically an hour later.

Whoever designed their software and app is a total loser in my book. Did I mention that the website also froze many times when trying to update my system?

My little nano is doing perfectly fine with a chap $20 hang on filter and a cheap $60 light. My $2,500 kitchen tank with this funky $500 light was cooked into a green wonderland. Go figure.

Doing 60% water changes every day now, doubled the water flow rate, managed to reduce light output to 3 to 23% for only 4 hours a day after trying and trying again for many hours. Also put that TWINSTAR-II M5 Algae Inhibitor module from my main tank (not running yet) into it.

For now it looks like the algae growth is going back slowly.

It has turned parts of the soil dark green and I saw 2 or 3 of these node looking thingys on a long green hair.

Only plant in this tank is Eleocharis sp Mini Tissue Culture Dwarf Hairgrass. Should I throw a black blanket over the tank for 3 days? Any other suggestions?


Green patches behind stone only:

Hairy algae with a "node" / eye:

Otherwise, the dwarf grass it growing in somewhat decently:

 

[doylecolmdoyle]

Algae doesn't look to bad, just keep the light low but not to low that the plants dont grow and plant growth should out compete algae growth, that green algae on the soil kind of looks like BGA (blue green algae) which can be a sign of low nitrates and low flow.

That hair like algae on the glass is weird, could be some kind of hair algae, could also be some kind of organism, is it moving around itself or just with the flow of the water, almost looks like hydra but is probably some kind of algae.

IMO those algae inhibitors do nothing, I tried one once and algae grew on the disc thing, regular water changes are the best way to combat algae

 

[McCarthy]

Algae doesn't look to bad, just keep the light low but not to low that the plants dont grow and plant growth should out compete algae growth, that green algae on the soil kind of looks like BGA (blue green algae) which can be a sign of low nitrates and low flow.

That hair like algae on the glass is weird, could be some kind of hair algae, could also be some kind of organism, is it moving around itself or just with the flow of the water, almost looks like hydra but is probably some kind of algae.

IMO those algae inhibitors do nothing, I tried one once and algae grew on the disc thing, regular water changes are the best way to combat algae

So in general:

1.) Do all planted tanks end up with some form of algae or is that entirely avoidable?

2.) Is it correct that once you managed to grow algae you won't be able to get rid of it ever again?

3.) Does this mean I will never be able to get to the point of water changes only every 2 weeks?

I had to lower the flow again because it was digging a hole in the soil. I'll measure for nitrates and the who nine yards soon and post them.

Thank you for helping, much appreciated.

 

[doylecolmdoyle]

So in general:

1.) Do all planted tanks end up with some form of algae or is that entirely avoidable?

2.) Is it correct that once you managed to grow algae you won't be able to get rid of it ever again?

3.) Does this mean I will never be able to get to the point of water changes only every 2 weeks?

I had to lower the flow again because it was digging a hole in the soil. I'll measure for nitrates and the who nine yards soon and post them.

Thank you for helping, much appreciated.

1 - I would say most planted tank end up with some form of algae, its all about management and trying to reduce the amount, even when the tank looks algae free wait until you start taking macro photos, you will find algae you never knew you had!

2 - You can eradicate the visual signs of algae, generally by lowering light, making sure you co2 is sufficient and doing regular water changes, I dont know the technicalities but I think its pretty much impossible to get rid of algae spores, going back to point 1 I would be surprised if any planted tank didnt have any form of algae.

3 - Water changes are king, I try to do them weekly but sometimes they are pushed back to every two weeks, when i start slacking on water changes thats when the algae gets a chance to take hold, some of the best tanks ive seen have owners who change water every 3 days...

Also that algae may not be BGA, hard to tell from the photo. All new tanks are very prone to algae, just keep up with the water changes, check light and co2 levels and you should see improvement.

 

[McCarthy]

How often should I change the filter media? The small tank has a hang on, the kitchen tank has a huge Eheim 350 filter.

 

[doylecolmdoyle]

Depends what media is in there? With the canister filter i assume its got bio balls or something like that, never change these, probably has a coarse filter sponge, again no need to change, both these can be rinsed in cycled tank water so you dont kill the good bacteria that has grown on them. Most ppl clean the filter about every 8 weeks or so. You may also have fine filter floss, this needs to be swapped out when it starts to clog, personally I dont use anything like filter floss that clogs and slows flow.

Not to sure about the HOB never used on of those, same principles apply, perhaps needs to be cleaned more often if its smaller.

 

[McCarthy]

Depends what media is in there? With the canister filter i assume its got bio balls or something like that, never change these, probably has a coarse filter sponge, again no need to change, both these can be rinsed in cycled tank water so you dont kill the good bacteria that has grown on them. Most ppl clean the filter about every 8 weeks or so. You may also have fine filter floss, this needs to be swapped out when it starts to clog, personally I dont use anything like filter floss that clogs and slows flow.

Not to sure about the HOB never used on of those, same principles apply, perhaps needs to be cleaned more often if its smaller.

Thanks.

This is the Eheim filter with all the media:

Afaik it is:

1.) Blue coarse filter sponge
2.) White fine filter sponge
3.) Bio filter media
4.) Ceramic filter media
5.) Some plastic spirals (not sure what they do)

The hang on filter uses:

1.) White fine filter sponge (could also be filter floss, not sure)
2.) Ceramic filter media in a net
3.) Charcoal pins in a net


So I will just replace the white fine filter sponge and the filter floss.

 

[kadoxu]

I have the Pro 4 600 in an overstocked 240L fancy goldfish tank and I clean the filter once a month (should do it more often), dismantling & cleaning everything, and also rinsing the media in water removed from the aquarium, and change the white sponge. And the blue sponge gets replaced every 3 or 6 months depending on it's condition.

 

[McCarthy]

I have the Pro 4 600 in an overstocked 240L fancy goldfish tank and I clean the filter once a month (should do it more often), dismantling & cleaning everything, and also rinsing the media in water removed from the aquarium, and change the white sponge. And the blue sponge gets replaced every 3 or 6 months depending on it's condition.

Cleaned the filters yesterday based on your post, and also replaced the white sponge. It was very brownish, the blue sponge was clean. Besides a slippery film on all internal parts there was no other dirt.

Thanks!

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

So I will just replace the white fine filter sponge and the filter floss.

and also replaced the white sponge

Throw them away and don't replace them with anything else.

You don't really want any fine mechanical filter media inside the filter body. I like a pre-filter, the <"Eheim one is fine">, but pretty ugly. Personally I use a big PPI20 sponge block, they sell these for Koi ponds.

If you have a look at the <"tower block filters"> at Swiss Tropicals you can see the type of block I mean.

There are some pictures in <"Filter media question">.

cheers Darrel

 

[alto]

Throw them away and don't replace them with anything else.

Can't do it

I like my water "crystal clear" & it's just not the same without a fines filter ... though perhaps the quality of the tap is more to blame than the fact of a it being an aquarium with living beings (that should include plants too I hope )

I find my coarse blue sponge remains fairly clean while the white pad collects all the crud, it's definitely the water "polisher"

I'm still not convinced on those odd floaty black rings Eheim introduced with their Pro 4 series, nothing collects in that lower basket & they are impervious to even biofilm, next basket is the Pro 4 square shaped media which is marketed as a BioMech though it seems less effective as a mechanical filter stage than the older Mech (square tubes), final basket is
SubstratePro & the white Filter Pad

Why don't I want a Fines filter pad?
Sure it produces more flow resistance than the coarser media but it's not that significant if changed out regularly - I suspect it's rather less restrictive to flow than all the reactors & inline heaters people install so gleefully
If I actually owned inline heaters & reactors I might be moved to actual measurements but until then I'll let the users check the physics of flow

Finally looked at Eheim site, those odd black rings are MECHpro

 

[alto]

I like a pre-filter, the <"Eheim one is fine">, but pretty ugly. Personally I use a big PPI20 sponge block, they sell these for Koi ponds.

I just can't get excited about those ugly pre-filters in my tank - my eye is well trained to Not See the heater
but always Locks On those big sponges

Have you measured flow rate with/without? & after a week (?)of use?
OR Do you really rinse that pre-filter sponge every day?

I've a friend that uses sponge filters, as soon as you start moving that sponge to remove&rinse, it begins shedding debris like crazy ...
though I suppose if cleaned daily, nothing like this happens

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Why don't I want a Fines filter pad? Sure it produces more flow resistance than the coarser media but it's not that significant if changed out regularly - I suspect it's rather less restrictive to flow than all the reactors & inline heaters people install so gleefully

Yes it would just be a flow issue. If you aren't getting any flow restriction than you are unlikely to run into dissolved oxygen issues. In a high tech planted tank you are very unlikely to have low oxygen anyway, so it would really only if you have fish or shrimps in the tank, and then it would depend upon the <"Bohr-Root"> response of the livestock.

........so I can hide them. In a more open tank I'd go for <"@Konsa"> APS pre-filter option.

One of those?

cheers Darrel

 

[McCarthy]

My 350 4+ filter already has way too much flow for this small 10 G tank and is being turned down both by the valve and the electronic setting. If I crank flow up just one notch I will have floating plants and massive soil erosion (and yes I used TGM style substrate support).

I also use a Eheim skimmer that keeps the surface super clean. Clean the sponge every other day.

I'm not sure why I should change my filter system? Doe a fine filter pad in the 350 4+ increase my algae problem?

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I also use a Eheim skimmer that keeps the surface super clean. Clean the sponge every other day.

I'm not sure why I should change my filter system? Doe a fine filter pad in the 350 4+ increase my algae problem?

No, if you keep it clean you can use a really fine "fines" filter. I'm away from the tanks a fair bit so I like systems that don't need too much maintenance, and I'm pretty tight with my money/keen on re-cycling so I don't like anything that is single use.

cheers Darrel

 

[alto]

One of those?

Nothing like is available locally but going by photos those inlet/outlet tubes look restrictive, not to mention the 90* angle excellent flow resistor - or is my long ago physics class failing me

I have run my filter in past tank incarnations with/without fines filter pads, unless the pad is completely gunked, it just doesn't have that much impact on flow (yes I actually measured flow rates back then ), I've even used more than one fines pad in various Eheim filters - the Pro Series has always performed very well against back pressure, the Classics though are very susceptible to back pressure (I only run these on 30C or 45P type tanks)

Anyway, apologies to McCarthy for this Snakeshand
(Engine Summer John Crowley)

 

[mike L]

Can't do it

I like my water "crystal clear"....

In a no-expense spared setup, I'm inclined to steer you towards "Purigen"....by no means cheap but performs really well if crystal clear water be the aim...

....in my own experience that is.

Experimentally, I once ran oodles of carbon in conjunction with just a modest amount of Purigen and an occasional drop of Seachem "Clarity" and it looked like there was no water in the tank...just plants and fish suspended in mid air. We're talking jawdroppingly "Gin" clear!!

Mike

 

[McCarthy]

Just a quick iPhone photo... I'm getting there... might be time for the shrimp...

Royal Blue Orange Eye Tiger is the plan...

 

[Edvet]

Get a mini lawncutter for that

 

[McCarthy]

Get a mini lawncutter for that
View attachment 113975

I tried my Lego "lawncutter", but it just won't fit. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.