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Cloudy Water Hazy Water and Algae!

I was actually thinking this might be a time to go back to raw basics and slowly build up again!
 
Well let's
Andy Pierce said:
My first thought with algae is "too much light", specifically too much light intensity rather than too much light duration. Can you reduce the light intensity by 50% and leave the other aspects the same? Meanwhile keep on with water changes. You can also try a double dose of liquid carbon - EasyCarbo or similar at 2 ml/50 litres.
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Hi,

I have only 32 Watts Led lights together with Aquarium as a set from superfish.

This light is not dimmable. Unfortunately.

I have another one for smaller tanks 14W Led light from Superfish as well.
I could try switch it on instead that 32W.

But 14Watts then will it be enough?

Thank you
 
Hi all,
AquariusPeter said:
Actually i am thinking if should i dose anything if i have green bloom water...
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You don't need the potassium sorbate, you can just acidify the micro-nutrient solution with "white vinegar" or similar.

In terms of the green water, the green water algae are plants, so it just says all the nutrients required for plant growth are available.
_Maq_ said:
Patience is the first virtue of an aquarist.
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My advice as well, just keep on changing some water and feeding the plants and things will eventually improve.

Cheers Darrel
 
dw1305 said:
You don't need the potassium sorbate, you can just acidify the micro-nutrient solution with "white vinegar" or similar.
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Hi,
I have already ordered on amazon. According to that link with instruction, is saying that we need to add potassium sorbate and then also we need to choose one of them, ascorbic acid, white vinegar, strictly acid.

I have white vinegar. So I will do it soon .
I didn't know earlier about I don't need potassium sorbate so yesterday I bought it 250g.

I decided as well today to give it this aquadip ferro. It is saying to does 10ml per 100litres.

I added 4 ml and it is pink -ish colour for this ferro.

I clicked also 4 pumps(1 pump per 5litres) of that colombo flora grow As I changed yesterday 20 litres water.

dw1305 said:
My advice as well, just keep on changing some water and feeding the plants and things will eventually improve.
Click to expand...

If I will now on days my water is getting green then i will keep on changing some water again. I will keep going untill hopefully things get better.

Thank you,

Best Regards,

Peter

Ps. Guys are you experiencing issues with ukaps.org ? It is very slow connection and I need to wait long time to open threads or photos or to respond for threads.
 
AquariusPeter said:
I have only 32 Watts Led lights together with Aquarium as a set from superfish. This light is not dimmable. Unfortunately.
I have another one for smaller tanks 14W Led light from Superfish as well. I could try switch it on instead that 32W.
But 14 Watts then will it be enough?
Click to expand...
I think 14 W will be enough. I use a Kessil A80 (15W) on my tank with a light-to-substrate distance of around 45 cm which seems similar to what you have. The Kessil is dimmable and I only ever run it to a max of 70% intensity. If you do a bit of a read on UKAPS too much light is much more likely to be a problem than not enough light and algae loves high intensity light. See also: photon cannon
 
AquariusPeter said:
If I will now on days my water is getting green then i will keep on changing some water again. I will keep going untill hopefully things get better.
Click to expand...
I'm not against using chemistry when struggling with algae.
Yes, it's true what people say, that chemistry helps for a while but if the core cause of algae remains in place, they will come back. Very true. The weak point of this wisdom is that sometimes we truly don't know what the cause is. It's usually identifiable in beginners' tanks, but honestly, even advanced hobbyists face from time to time algae and can't tell with confidence what is the source. Or do you think differently?

This year, I've got an opportunity to try two substances against (green) algae. The first one used salicylic acid. The results were bad, it killed some of my plants (while others remained intact, and still others suffered damage). Next, I've tried potions (actually pills) offered by Tetra: Algizit and AlgoStop Depot. I don't recall the name of the active substance. These pills worked well for me, caused no harm to plants nor snails and suppressed the algae near total elimination. They need time to show results, though, depending on dose up to several weeks. I should add that I dosed cautiously, always a bit below recommended dosage.
Hope this experience of mine might be of use to other hobbyists.
 
_Maq_ said:
I'm not against using chemistry when struggling with algae.
Yes, it's true what people say, that chemistry helps for a while but if the core cause of algae remains in place, they will come back. Very true. The weak point of this wisdom is that sometimes we truly don't know what the cause is. It's usually identifiable in beginners' tanks, but honestly, even advanced hobbyists face from time to time algae and can't tell with confidence what is the source. Or do you think differently?

This year, I've got an opportunity to try two substances against (green) algae. The first one used salicylic acid. The results were bad, it killed some of my plants (while others remained intact, and still others suffered damage). Next, I've tried potions (actually pills) offered by Tetra: Algizit and AlgoStop Depot. I don't recall the name of the active substance. These pills worked well for me, caused no harm to plants nor snails and suppressed the algae near total elimination. They need time to show results, though, depending on dose up to several weeks. I should add that I dosed cautiously, always a bit below recommended dosage.
Hope this experience of mine might be of use to other hobbyists.
Click to expand...
Hi,

​

I have been offered today in one of the aquatic shop I attached this screenshot here. And they gave me also option to buy UV lamp for external filter. Or just order on amazon internal filter UV.

As I wanted to buy floating plants i have little indication but they unfortunately didn't have.

I know there are some kind of chemicals, UV filters, but I want to learn properly things and try to make it everything in a natural way.

Best regards,

Peter
 

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AquariusPeter said:
Will it be enough also for red plants? Like ludwigia palustris red, althenanthera reinicki mini? Or in the future more advanced red plants ?
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Yes, it will be enough light. I have grown both Ludwigia palustris mini ‘Super Red’ and AR mini with no issues under this lighting. The Super Red in particular will be a really good indicator plant for you as it transitions to submersed form easily and grows rapidly.
 
AquariusPeter said:
Like ludwigia palustris red, althenanthera reinicki mini?
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Definitely ok. These are easy plants.

AquariusPeter said:
Or in the future more advanced red plants ?
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M. Tuberculatum, C. Furcata, H.Chai : 14w/32w on a 60x40x38 is not enough.
R. Wallichii and variants, L.Meta: will have hints of colour but will not be at their best.

Actually, while L.Pantanal was considered relatively challenging, growing L.Meta seems like cheating, it might be considered a medium or maybe beginner plant, rather than advanced.
 
erwin123 said:
Definitely ok. These are easy plants.


M. Tuberculatum, C. Furcata, H.Chai : 14w/32w on a 60x40x38 is not enough.
R. Wallichii and variants, L.Meta: will have hints of colour but will not be at their best.

Actually, while L.Pantanal was considered relatively challenging, growing L.Meta seems like cheating, it might be considered a medium or maybe beginner plant, rather than advanced.
Click to expand...
What about plants for green lawn in Front like, eleocharis, or hemianthus, micranthemum Monte carlo?

Thank you,

Best regards

Peter

How is about Toninas?
 
Andy Pierce said:
Yes, it will be enough light. I have grown both Ludwigia palustris mini ‘Super Red’ and AR mini with no issues under this lighting. The Super Red in particular will be a really good indicator plant for you as it transitions to submersed form easily and grows rapidly.
Click to expand...
Hi,
As I mentioned in separately post, The Kessil lamps is special optically designed and they specially lenses giving you more light than its power.

I will change for 1 week or 2 weeks on my 14W LED lights for a try (smaller lamp) and I will see what is going to happen.

Thank you,

Best regards,

Peter
 
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I have never had green water in a tank, green water is all to common in ponds though, I used to get it every spring, until I “installed” fast growing plants (arum lilllies), never had it since, it also removed the “blanket weed”, problem the blanket weed is still there, it just no longer becomes a problem, as it’s growth is much reduced
dw1305 said:
Hi all,

You don't need the potassium sorbate, you can just acidify the micro-nutrient solution with "white vinegar" or similar.

In terms of the green water, the green water algae are plants, so it just says all the nutrients required for plant growth are available.

My advice as well, just keep on changing some water and feeding the plants and things will eventually improve.

Cheers Darrel
Click to expand...
 
AquariusPeter said:
What about plants for green lawn in Front like, eleocharis, or hemianthus, micranthemum Monte carlo?

Thank you,

Best regards

Peter

How is about Toninas?
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(1) Carpets are generally not difficult if there is unobstructed light. If you are doing Dutch style with a lot of plants, it may result in the carpet not getting enough light.
(2) There is basically only one Tonina sp commonly encountered in the Aquarium trade, T. Fluviatilis or T.Fluviatilis 'Lotus Blossom' (essentially a smaller form of T T.Fluviatilis which can grow pretty big). Both are pretty easy and I prefer them to the similar Rotala Indica "Bonsai"
 
erwin123 said:
Carpets are generally not difficult if there is unobstructed light. If you are doing Dutch style with a lot of plants, it may result in the carpet not getting enough light.
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Hi,
Yes, when I learn how to fertilise properly, and will get more experience, I would like to have nice planted tank in duch style with red plants.


erwin123 said:
(2) There is basically only one Tonina sp commonly encountered in the Aquarium trade, T. Fluviatilis or T.Fluviatilis 'Lotus Blossom' (essentially a smaller form of T T.Fluviatilis which can grow pretty big). Both are pretty easy and I prefer them to the similar Rotala Indica "Bonsai"
Click to expand...
Nice to know it.
I have heard there are plants who don't really like high KH.
Is it true?

Thank You

Best regards

Peter
 
Andy Pierce said:
I think 14 W will be enough. I use a Kessil A80 (15W) on my tank with a light-to-substrate distance of around 45 cm which seems similar to what you have. The Kessil is dimmable and I only ever run it to a max of 70% intensity. If you do a bit of a read on UKAPS too much light is much more likely to be a problem than not enough light and algae loves high intensity light. See also: photon cannon
Click to expand...
Hi,
As I mentioned I changed to 14W LED light from superfish but this is not like a Kessil with advanced optically technology, so my 14W is definitely to less light on 90 litres tank. It looks like night light...
After photoperiod started i just switched back to 32W LED.
This 14W LED it can be just like an additional source of light in case that 32W wouldn't have been enough.

Thank you,

Best Regards

Peter
 
AquariusPeter said:
Hi,
Yes, when I learn how to fertilise properly, and will get more experience, I would like to have nice planted tank in dutch style with red plants.
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its as simple as finding a 'recipe' that is suitable & copying it.


AquariusPeter said:
Nice to know it.
I have heard there are plants who don't really like high KH.
Click to expand...
I would say that softer water makes it easier to grow certain types of plants.
 
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