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current setup and recommendations

Hi Emann,
Oh-ohh, soft green algae on glass sounds like GDA which is not good news at all. Yes, it's a CO2/nutrient related algae and it can become a real problem. We'll need good photos to verify.
.i would like to wait for the pH pen now before I adjust again in order to get a decent profile...what is your advise on this pleaseand is it ok to proceed like this??
Yes, just continue with this setting. Sometime it takes a few days for the fish to adapt to the higher levels of CO2. Keep monitoring the health and behavior of the rainbow fish. Hopefully, by Tuesday they will not be as affected and will adapt. If their condition worsens then we will have to use a different strategy.

It's really important to continue the frequent and very large water changes. Don't forget to dose nutrition after the water change.

Are you also getting algae on the 3D background?
3D backgrounds are under suspicion of disrupting flow/distribution.
Ensure that you scrub and clean it when you do the water change.

Cheers,
 
Hi Clive...so as for GDA I have increased a bit the CO2 as advised in my previous post which I understand should help...also what about nutrients...I use and alternate LUSH/Neutro+ every month and dose daily the recommended mL/L of water...is this ok pls? I also clean the background with every water change with a brush.

have a great week.
 
Hi Emann,
Be advised that there are some algae types that once triggered, do not simply go away just because you improved the conditions in the tank. This is a really important point to understand.
GDA and BBA are two such types that are infamous for holding on to the tank with an iron grip.

I use and alternate LUSH/Neutro+ every month and dose daily the recommended mL/L of water
Sorry mate, I have no idea what is LUSH. I also do not know the contents of Neutro+ so it's very difficult to troubleshoot, to analyze, or to give recommendations. I never use brand name nutrients because they are expensive and because I don't know what is in product unless the label or website specifies the content. It's also not clear to me why there is a need to alternate between the two.

I always suggest that you buy the dry powders and dose per the EI Article in the Tutorial section. This is how you become a more educated hobbyist. It's a very simple procedure and you will always know what you are putting in the tank. The dry powders are also much cheaper...you can even find these powders at your local garden center. There is nothing special about these brand name fertilizers. Some guy just dumps some of the very same dry powders into a bottle of water, paints a pretty picture on the bottle and charges you 10X what it would cost for you to do the same thing. I wish people would stop being hypnotized by brand name products that are not any better than what may already be in their garden shed or garage.

I also clean the background with every water change with a brush.
What I'm trying to find out is if the background is actually getting algae and if so, what type? If so it is an indication that the background may be causing a disruption to flow/distribution.

Cheers,
 
Hi Clive...tks for the reply...

the algae on the glass is greenish and very easy to remove....the same i think is the one on the 3d background...pity i did not take photos before...so it means that this cannot go away and i will remain with it?

I am copying the description of the fertiliser products below...both of these I got after searching for fertilisers over here but I have gone rapidly through the tutorial you mentioned and oh boy what still i have to learn.

Lush Max is a complete aquatic plant food mix containing everything your plants require including; Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Trace Elements.

Analysis % When mixed with 1 litre de-ionised water:
N 1.33%, P 0.12%, K 3.88%, Mg 0.39%, B 0.01%, Cu 0.002%, Fe 0.11%, Mn 0.02%, Mo 0.002%, Zn 0.01%

Neutro+ is a liquid plant fertiliser which provides trace elements and macro nutrients (NPK) for high tech planted aquariums.

In consideration that I still have quite some more volume of each remaining, would you recommend forgetting them and start EI or else I can finish these and then will proceed with EI.
 
Hi Emann,
the algae on the glass is greenish and very easy to remove....the same i think is the one on the 3d background...pity i did not take photos before...so it means that this cannot go away and i will remain with it?
No, it does not mean that it will never go away, it just means that it's very difficult to make it go away. Since we have not actually confirmed that it is GDA, then we don't really know what the situation is. If it does return then you will have the opportunity to take the photos again. If it does not return then you are in good shape.

Lush Max is a complete aquatic plant food mix containing everything your plants require including; Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Trace Elements.
Analysis % When mixed with 1 litre de-ionised water:
N 1.33%, P 0.12%, K 3.88%, Mg 0.39%, B 0.01%, Cu 0.002%, Fe 0.11%, Mn 0.02%, Mo 0.002%, Zn 0.01%
Yes, OK, but this is still irritating because they do not say what chemical they used to produce these percentages. Probably, to certify the product with the government, they need to specify the percentage of elements at that level, but without any more information it's very difficult for us to determine, for example, whether we are not dosing enough. So troubleshooting becomes difficult

1L of water weighs 1000g, so in that bottle, when brand new there will be 13.3 grams of Nitrogen - but we do not know how the Nitrogen is bound. They could have used an NO3 salt to get the Nitrogen.
Nitrogen is about 22.6% of NO3, which would mean that 59g of NO3 was dissolved in the bottle.
So it is possible that they dissolved a simple salt such as KNO3. to get their 59g.
NO3 is about 60% of KNO3 so that would mean they added about 102g of KNO3 to 1L of water in order to produce 1.33% N.

But we do not know this for sure. They could have used a different salt, such as Ammonium Nitrate, or Urea, or they could have used some combination, in which case, our calculations are completely wrong.

It's a similar situation with P and K. We do not really know what salts they are using and we have to guess.

It's better to know exactly what we are putting into the tank, to practice the simple maths, and gain an to gain an understanding of what we are doing. We can always calculate percentages of N P and K from our dry salts, but we cannot be sure when we go in the opposite direction.

Besides that, 100 grams of KNO3 costs less than 50 cents!

In any case, If Netro+ is the same as LUSH then why are you using one and then switching to the other?
Why not just use the one that is cheaper?

In consideration that I still have quite some more volume of each remaining, would you recommend forgetting them and start EI or else I can finish these and then will proceed with EI.
No, just continue to use it until it's finished. You've already spent the money, so I suggest to carry on.

I have gone rapidly through the tutorial you mentioned and oh boy what still i have to learn.
Really? It's so easy. Your tank is 240L / 60 US gallons right? So just use 3X the dosing that the reference 20G would use. In fact, you could easily round to the nearest teaspoon.
So 3X per week add 1 teaspoon KNO3 and 1/2 teaspoon KH2PO4
2X per week add 1/2 teaspoon Trace element mix.

That's all you need unless your water is low in magnesium and if so you could just add a few teaspoons of Epsom Salt at every water change.
How long will it take to learn that? 20 seconds or less.
Believe me, it much more difficult to read or write about it than to actually do it.

Cheers,
 
Hi Clive,

ok re algae...will monitor the situation and revert with photos on this.

as regards to fertilisers, what i meant is that you really never stop learning...and above all your description makes it very easy to learn...I had bought LUSH as it was cheaper but I understand that the powders are also even cheaper...will try to find sellers in europe for this for my next purchase then.

For now Im waiting for the pH pen to create a profile with the current setup...yesterday I noted the rainbows at the surface but they were there after a longer time...I hope this indicates their getting used to to this level of CO2.

I hope I am in contact with you soon with the PH profile then.

Thanks so much.
 
Yes, there should be a few sellers that will ship, but worst case, if shipping costs prove to be a problem, you can always get the salts locally from any agricultural supplier. I found this outfit in Malta: http://www.ortismalta.com/contact-us.html but check the garden centers on the islands or even in Southern Italy. Anywhere there is farming, there will be these basic salts. Farmers use this stuff by the ton, so it's not difficult at all.

Cheers,
 
thanks to both...will look for these locally first...in the meantime if Edvet can provide a website of your supplier pls...

Clive...in relation to the origin of this post, I am close to getting the next and last set of 3 pairs of fish...would you have any recommendations...i am really after something particular like those two Nanochromis in your thread of the EI dosing...although I know they are not compatible with my tank...just as a reminder I know have 1 bala and 1 rainbow shark, 4 rainbow fish, 6 congo tetra, 1 leopard catfish, 2 koi angels....any ideas maybe...and of course I hope to be able to source them locally...

cheers.
 
Hi Emann,
Well really, I would suggest that you stay away from the Nanochromis because you would probably never see them. They would just hide. If you want a start on dwarf chiclids the best option would be the standard Kribensis, which are colorful, do grow bigger and are a bit more outgoing.

Also have a review of the suggestions @sparkyweasel provided in earlier posts regarding various types of rasboras.
Honey gouramis are also nice.

I must admit that I'm not a fan of boisterous fish. For me, a planted tank evokes visions/feelings of peace and harmony, so I prefer colorful but calmer species to match these ideals. Of course that's just an opinion. It all boils down to one's personal preference of a fish tank with plants in it or a planted tank with fish in it.:drowning:

Cheers,
 
tks clive...and btw today I have the pH pen...so later on will try to calibrate it and then hopefully will be providing you with the first results of the profile...from there we see how to get along.

you are super helpful...will keep you posted.

tks
 
Hi Clive...hope u r doing well.

Below is the pH profile taken over two days with the pH pen:

Day 1:
1500 7.7
1530 7.2
1600 7.1
1630 6.9
1700 6.9
1730 6.8
1800 6.8
1830 6.8
1900 6.7
1930 6.7
2030 6.7
2130 6.7
2200 6.7
2230 6.7

Day 2:
1500 7.7
1530 7.2
1600 7.1
1630 7.1
1700 6.9
1900 6.8
1800 6.8
2000 6.7
2100 6.7
2230 6.7

If you remember we had lowered duration and intensite of day light for the juwel heliolux...at the moment the setup is:

Dawn 1600-1700
Sunrise 1700-1830
Daylight 1830-2130 Luminosity here was reduced to 70%.
Sunset 2130-2330
Dusk 2330-2355

So..what do you think of the pH profile pls...bubble rate is significant as shown before...I am not sure if others can advise if this is normal with this size of tank and it is no where near the 2 or 3 bps for sure. Apart of that I have never seen the plants in such glory...full of bubbles and pearling galore...

The other thing..should I start considering adjusting the light profile now as well in order to give more duration and luminosity for the daylight time pls.

Thanks for your help as always.

Have a great day.
 
Hi Emann,
Glad to hear that you have your pH pen and thanks for the profile data.
I'm not really sure about dawn and surise and so forth as it relates to the gas and percent power, but from a previous post in the thread it seems the gas goes ON at 1500 and the lights first come on at 1700?
This seems to correlate to the pH values in the list. So this is good, even though it continues to fall a little beyond the initial lights. I don't think this is much of a problem and I would not change anything for a few weeks.

If I were you, I would not be in a hurry to increase the lighting. It requires several weeks for the CO2 mechanism in plants to stabilize and you also need to increase the amount of plant mass, so they need to grow and add more calories before making a change. As their mass increases you will see that the pH will not continue to fall as much from 6.9 to 6.7.

I'm afraid that 2-3 bps on this size tank is pure fantasy, and the only way that will happen is if you turn the lights down to very, very low.
I think you will have to start planning on how soon you will have to change the bottle or how soon to get it refilled.
Sorry, I did not promise you that success would be "gratis" Emann. This is the price you must pay, unfortunately. I hope CO2 is not expensive in Malta.

Remember to cut the stems if they grow too quickly because they will have a tendency to interrupt the flow, so you must keep the aquascape clean, for now.

In any case, please leave everything as is for the next few weeks. If you add more light you will soon find that you will need to add more CO2, so if the plants are healthy and pearling then leave them alone. If you do choose to add more light then please only do so by adding a few percentage points. Adding CO2 is like driving a Ferrari at high speed on the motorway. A very minor mistake can cause a major crash, so I advise patience.

Cheers,
 
Hi Clive,

thanks for your reply...and yes I fully agree with you to keep the current settings then and see how it goes from here.

I reckon the best way forward after keeping these settings now is to ensure correct pruning of the plants to maintain flow....in these past few days since I noted pearling there is the vallisneria that is crazy going all over the surface of the tank...just not sure if i should just cut its leaves at the water surface and leave it to grow again or if there is some other form of pruning for this....during this weekend I also noted the bolbitis and the anubias pearling as well...the latter has two new leaves growing which have an amazing green colour.

CO2 is about €10 each refill...its a cost but not that expensive and i think the reward for looking at my tank in these past few weeks after especially following your guidance in this thread is more than worth it....after a full day at work it is mostly relaxing to sit in front of the aquarium after dinner and wind down with such a relaxing view of plants, fish, harmony and tranquillity.

All the very best and feel honoured to have had your assistance here.....I will report back once and if I start increasing the luminosity of the juwel to see how it goes...for now the tank will remain as is.
 
Hi Emann,
OK, that's a good plan. As far as the Vallis, you can simply cut them to the height you desire. You can also trace the particular leaf that is misbehaving down to the base and cut it off there. Some people like the effect of the Val draped over the top and if controlled, they can look really nice and help to block some of the light.
Vallis however, can easily grow out of control and you may find that you are constantly having to prune. If you don't like this idea then it is better to remove them and to get something else.

There is a Tropica plant that looks almost like Vallis and which is much more manageable, called Helanthium Vesuvius. Not sure if you can get it locally, but maybe by mail order.



Cheers,
 
Hi Clive,

hope all is well.

a small update over the past ten days...I have left the aquarium as discussed but I wanted to show you the algea I am getting on the glass of the aquarium.

I have specifically not cleaned it from the glass in the last weekend water change so that it would be more emphasized in the photos I wanted to send to you...please note the attached..I have increased a bit the colour to make it more identifiable...it is greenish and very easily removed....can you advise what type it is and possible solutions to minimise or preferably eliminate it.

Look forward for your reply as usual.

Regards.
 

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Hi Emann,
Looks like a type of diatom and it attacks newly set up tanks. It appears on my monitor as mostly brown, not green. It's very difficult to determine whether it was triggered during the last 10 days or prior to that. Again, there are only a few causal factors regarding algae in our tanks, too much light being the most prominent. Also, you should be measuring another pH profile as before to see if something has changed,

If it is green as you mentioned in your post, and not brown, as it appears on my computer screen then it might be BGA. Take out a sample on your finger and smell it. If it is green and if it also smells foul then it is BGA, which means a shortage of NO3.

I'm not sure looking at the photo, but it appears that some of the plants are covered with dirt and some leaves even appear to have GSA. When you do your water changes you should clean this debris off of the leaves and from the stems as any dirt or coating prevents CO2 and nutrients from penetrating through the leaf membrane.

Water changes involve more than just changing water. Algae infected leaves and dirt have to be cleaned and removed from the tank.
Also check you filter to see if it needs cleaning.

Cheers,
 
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Thanks...so will do a pH profile again...I do not reckon that this happened in the past 10 days...for me it is the same type I had described in a previous post and I thought better to leave it there to have some pictures for you to assist me with it.

I took out a sample on my finger, as i said very easy to clean with an aquarium glass cleaner, and although there is an odour it is no real bad smell coming from it...so if this seems diatoms what path should i take pls.

As for cleaning the plants, i did not do this as yet...is it just a matter of wiping the leaves with my fingers or is there some other way please.

I wash the filter material in aquarium water alternatively each week with the water change...is this enough or should i increase this then.

Finally, please look at my java fern as attach (not the best of photos!!)....there are some leaves having smaller leaves coming off of them...how can I propagat these if possible.

Thanks for all your help.
 

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Hi Emann,
Diatomic algal blooms can be annoying even when you have already fixed the root cause. The only options are to continue frequent large water changes and to continually clean it off of the glass and eventually they go away if the plants continue to improve their health. I thought you mentioned some time ago that you had intended to increase the light. If you had done so then as always, consider reducing the intensity and that will help you to eliminate the bloom.

Regarding the ferns, just let them grow where they are and when you find a preferred location to mount them take them off the main plant and tie them to the selected spot. Very easy.

Cheers,
 
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