Eleocharis Mini

[Ömer Karaahmet]

Why is Eleocharis mini drying up even though I did everything right? please help me!!!

I installed the aquarium 1 week ago and I do a 50% water change every day. I use a dose of Tropica Specialized Nutrition at every water change. The TDS value of the water was 320ppm but now I have reduced it to 130-140 with R/O Water. Lighting time is 6 hours per day. Other times I cover it so it doesn't get any light and keep it in the dark. I even made ventilation so that it wouldn't get hot when it's covered 🙂 Despite everything, it makes me very sad that I wasn't successful, I don't know what to do anymore.

 

[erwin123]

You haven't mentioned CO2 in your post. If you do not have CO2, E. Parvula is actually easier to grow than Mini.

 

[Ömer Karaahmet]

Yes I am using pressurized Co2. What could be the problem?

 

[Zeus.]

Yes I am using pressurized Co2. What could be the problem?

Yes, Eleocharis mini does benefit from CO2 injection, but the CO2 injection needs to be done well for success esp as its at the carpet level.
What are your light and CO2 on/off times?
What colour does your DC change ?
Have you done a pH profile?

Most folk don't get the CO2 right first time as its very tricky

Good effort all the same, I do like your shielding of unwanted light as well

 

[Ömer Karaahmet]

There is enough co2 in the water. I can't understand, everything is according to the book, but the result is disappointment. I did not measure the pH, I should do it as soon as possible. I don't understand what DC means? I'm glad you like the aquarium cover😅
The co2 turns on at 16 o'clock, the light on at 18 and both off at 24.

 

[John q]

. I don't understand what DC means?

Zeus was referencing your Drop Checker.

 

[Ömer Karaahmet]

The first few days after installing the aquarium it was lime green in color but then the water hardness (TDS) and color became dark green. I guess because the hardness of the water increased, enough CO2 could not dissolve in the water. Could the problem be the hardness of the water? Also, there has been a layer of oil on the water for three or four days.

Zeus was referencing your Drop Checker.
View attachment 173128

Yes, Eleocharis mini does benefit from CO2 injection, but the CO2 injection needs to be done well for success esp as its at the carpet level.
What are your light and CO2 on/off times?
What colour does your DC change ?
Have you done a pH profile?

Most folk don't get the CO2 right first time as its very tricky

Good effort all the same, I do like your shielding of unwanted light as well

 

[Zeus.]

The first few days after installing the aquarium it was lime green in color but then the water hardness (TDS) and color became dark green. I guess because the hardness of the water increased

The DC (Drop Checker) is independent of the tanks water parameters - Except [CO2]. IT may of gone darker for many reasons from plants using it, change of flow, surface agitation increase

I guess because the hardness of the water increased, enough CO2 could not dissolve in the water. Could the problem be the hardness of the water?

As long as you have little dGH and dKH the pH of the tank at 30 ppm pH should be stable, the pH will vary on the hardness of the water so there isnt a sweat spot pH, but a 1.0pH drop yields about 30 ppm CO2

Also, there has been a layer of oil on the water for three or four days.

Not good as the tank needs to degas at night and take O2 in, I have lost livestock due to surface film so good surface agitation is advised - a surface skimmer helps too.

Without a pH profile the stability of the [CO2] is unknown, the tank needs the CO2 to be stable ( same pH) from lights on till CO2 off. DC are slow to change colour whilst a pH pen (papers are instant) the use of both of them is very helpful/advised esp for folk new to CO2 injection

CO2 level worth a read

 

[Ömer Karaahmet]

Thank you very much for the information. The last thing I want to ask is: I used ADA power S and Amazonia Soil as the base material, and finally I added Tropica Powder to the top. ADA products had waited a few years and I think they were out of date. Is it possible that the yellowing on the Eleocharis plant is caused by this? Or should I just grab a PH meter and be on my way?

The DC (Drop Checker) is independent of the tanks water parameters - Except [CO2]. IT may of gone darker for many reasons from plants using it, change of flow, surface agitation increase


As long as you have little dGH and dKH the pH of the tank at 30 ppm pH should be stable, the pH will vary on the hardness of the water so there isnt a sweat spot pH, but a 1.0pH drop yields about 30 ppm CO2

Not good as the tank needs to degas at night and take O2 in, I have lost livestock due to surface film so good surface agitation is advised - a surface skimmer helps too.

Without a pH profile the stability of the [CO2] is unknown, the tank needs the CO2 to be stable ( same pH) from lights on till CO2 off. DC are slow to change colour whilst a pH pen (papers are instant) the use of both of them is very helpful/advised esp for folk new to CO2 injection

CO2 level worth a read

 

[Zeus.]

I used ADA power S and Amazonia Soil as the base material, and finally I added Tropica Powder to the top. ADA products had waited a few years and I think they were out of date.

Very unlikely, the life of AS (Aqua Soil) is more down to the 'clay baked granules' themselves and not the ferts they contain. There may not be enough nutrients in the soil long term but within a week going pale is more likely a transition to growing underwater in combination to fluctuating [CO2] +/- insufficient flow. A lot of plants we grow don't like being underwater as there isn't enough CO2, its our CO2 injection which makes it possible in combination with good flow and regular/good maintenance.

What ferts are you dosng?

A quality pH pen isnt cheap and some pH papers may be more cost effective

 

[Ömer Karaahmet]

Very unlikely, the life of AS (Aqua Soil) is more down to the 'clay baked granules' themselves and not the ferts they contain. There may not be enough nutrients in the soil long term but within a week going pale is more likely a transition to growing underwater in combination to fluctuating [CO2] +/- insufficient flow. A lot of plants we grow don't like being underwater as there isn't enough CO2, its our CO2 injection which makes it possible in combination with good flow and regular/good maintenance.

What ferts are you dosng?

A quality pH pen isnt cheap and some pH papers may be more cost effective

Very unlikely, the life of AS (Aqua Soil) is more down to the 'clay baked granules' themselves and not the ferts they contain. There may not be enough nutrients in the soil long term but within a week going pale is more likely a transition to growing underwater in combination to fluctuating [CO2] +/- insufficient flow. A lot of plants we grow don't like being underwater as there isn't enough CO2, its our CO2 injection which makes it possible in combination with good flow and regular/good maintenance.

What ferts are you dosng?

A quality pH pen isnt cheap and some pH papers may be more cost effective

I use Tropica Specialized Nutrition as liquid fertilizer. It says that I have to give a dose once a week, but since I do water changes (50%) every day, I give 1 dose every day.