The original papers are <"Ullrich CI, Novacky AJ (1990) Extra- and intracellular pH and membrane potential changes induced by K+, Cl−, H2PO4 -, and NO 3 uptake and fusicoccin in root hairs of Limnobium stoloniferum."> Plant Physiol 94:1561–1567 & <"Are Redox Reactions Involved in Regulation of K+ Channels in the Plasma Membrane of Limnobium stoloniferum Root Hairs"> A Grabov, M Bottger - Plant Physiology, 1994.That would be very useful.
That is sort of why I've pushed the <"Duckweed Index">. It has a basis in science, but all the interesting/scary* bits are hidden under the hood.Some people tell me that having a fish tank is very restful, I wonder
*delete as appropriate.Rather than the regular addition of nutrients, I use <"a different approach">. I have a floating plant (usually <"Limnobium laevigatum">) and ,<"heavy planting"> of <"easy" plants"> in the tanks. I just watch the <"growth and leaf colour of the floating plant"> (so not CO2, or light, limited), all the time the leaves are green and the plant growing (how ever slowly) I don't add any nutrients (other than whatever arrives via water changes).
When plant growth (or leaf colour) deteriorates I add some nutrients, once growth has resumed it is back to observing and waiting.
all the interesting/scary* bits
<"Plant blindness">.Still saddened by people who just do not see plants
I haven't seen that one. The estimate is that over half the Earth's oxygen is attributable to Marine Algae, and Diatoms will make up a good proportion of that. The figure quoted is 40% for Diatoms, but the estimates for the proportion of the Earth's oxygen from marine phytoplankton is between 55% - 80%, so that doesn't really help very much.Diatom algae watched a good program on it on netflix 'One Strange Rock'
The thing about Iron though, is that the plants don't really need a lot and in a high tech tank, within an hour or so the plants has as much Fe as it needs, so it really is not a big problem. If you lost 50% of the Iron then just dose more often and it will get there
Yes I'd just add a pinch, and when you can't see any pink tinge add another pinch, plants don't need a lot of iron. The problem with very hard water is that there aren't any iron ions available, all the iron is combined into insoluble compounds and none of it is plant available.
so this makes me think should I dose my Micro mix with FeDTPA in it in one dump or multiple ? multiple for the photoperiod seems to be the obvious answer to me and easy to do with PLC so three equal doses two hours apart from lights on done
But your surgestion to allow for the the dissociation constant changing with the different pHs so if it's only 50% dissolved dosing double the dose will make the initial dose closer to the target
@Zeus.'s is the really important point, it doesn't seem very scientific but it works, just watch the plants. Scientists do this, they just call it a "bioassay".
Good, that sounds promising.So I've been dosing Fe eddha for a few weeks now adding tip of a teaspoon as per recomended on this thread and gaining the slight pink tinge, after a week it looked liked my plants perked up abit more vibrant and my Xmas moss started showing alot more growing tips and java fern has sprouted loads of new shoots so all cushty.
I don't have any experience with Purigen and iron chelates, but the pink colour would indicate that you are right, and the FeEDDHA is being removed by the Purigen.I no longer get the pink tinge from eddha and the purigen media is looking pinkish so I can only assume that the purigen is removing the eddha?