Fish IDs

GlenD

Member
Joined
26 Jun 2019
Messages
161
Location
London
Hi, I’ve had some of these tropical fish in my aquarium for years now and I honestly have no idea what half of them are.

I’d like some IDs to make sure they are all safe for my new planting aquarium.

Cheers guys
 

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tam

Member
Joined
5 May 2011
Messages
1,026
Marble hatchets, glowlight tetras, harlequin rasbora, black widow tetra, and I think that's a female bristlenose plec.
 
Joined
20 Jul 2018
Messages
379
Location
Netherlands
Jup and platys..its a pretty strange bunch and numbers to pack together, although it probably goes well I would ditch the rasboras and platys and get more marble hatchet and black skirt/widow tetras.. As they are schooling fish.
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
5,978
As above with the addition of what is likely a Rosy Tetra (definitely a member or the ‘rosy tetra clade’ but photos are not particularly good, and you may have more than one species from this complex ... I suspect there has also been some crossbreeding to produce color forms)

I’ve included the Seriously Fish Species Profile links as there are good suggestions in terms of shoal size, temperatures, aquarium size etc

Black skirt tetra - these can be somewhat contentious in nature (and may be running the whole tank, depending ... though looking at the photos it seems a bit of a free-for-all)
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/gymnocorymbus-ternetzi/

Rosy tetra
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hyphessobrycon-rosaceus/

Glowlight tetra
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hemigrammus-erythrozonus/

Harlequin rasbora - you seem to have a “purple” or “blue” morph (these occur naturally but have been line bred)
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/trigonostigma-heteromorpha/

Marble hatchet
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/carnegiella-strigata/

Platy type (these are often of very mixed lineage with crosses to sword and molly lines very common, your appear predominantly “platy” based upon appearance)
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/search/platy

Bristlenose pleco - these will often “clean” sword leafs to death, also any other broad leaf, they can also damage Anubias leafs when not fed appropriate foods, they should also have access to wood for rasping
Overall they are rather messy fish but all of this is manageable :)
These fish can be territorial and if your female has been alone for years, I’d be careful about introducing additional bristlenoses or similar species
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/ancistrus-cf-cirrhosus/


A more thorough article discussing the likely identity of the “common aquarium bristlenose” (which has more color forms available seemingly every year ;) ... not to mention some dyed versions (thankfully rare))
https://www.planetcatfish.com/shanesworld/shanesworld.php?article_id=377


All of your fish seem somewhat faded in color - likely a response to the pale substrate
They are also rather robust in appearance so reduced rations would be a kindness (fish develop fatty deposits around their organs, inside the liver, inside blood vessels etc), the increased swimming room and current should help as well

Most of the fish you have are shoaling/schooling fish and in larger tank, many will display more complex behaviours (though some of these behaviours are dependent on shoal number)

Rasboras are actually great fun to watch as they display levels of behaviour depending on group size (I’d suggest 16-20 for the 90cm tank)

Will you be shutting down the existing tank?

When adding new fish to an established community, I always recommend the use of a quarantine tank for at least 2 weeks (a month is even better) and this is regardless of how the local shop may have (or not) quarantined fish pre-sale

You can accomplish this by adding the new fish into the new planted tank - which works out grand IF they are healthy but it not so nice if you end up having to treat for white spot/ich (very very prevalent in newly shipped fish)
Of course placing the fish into a new, clean tank with loads of water/per fish will often help most fish clear up any slight diseases - especially with frequent large water changes (the water column component of the disease organism is remover)

Or you can transfer your existing fish over and switch that tank to a quarantine tank
I recommend a 40 - 60 litre aquarium, 60cm in length is better in terms of swimming space (given your present adult fish) and you can also use this as a hospital tank
Most plants will manage some treatments, but extended treatments can cause plant melt depending upon species, also combined medications + heat treatments are never recommended for plants (or fish really, many diseases compromise fish gill tissue, making respiration difficult, combine this with increased temperature ie substantially reduced water oxygen levels + the fact that most medication active components sequester oxygen ...)
 

GlenD

Member
Joined
26 Jun 2019
Messages
161
Location
London
As above with the addition of what is likely a Rosy Tetra (definitely a member or the ‘rosy tetra clade’ but photos are not particularly good, and you may have more than one species from this complex ... I suspect there has also been some crossbreeding to produce color forms)

I’ve included the Seriously Fish Species Profile links as there are good suggestions in terms of shoal size, temperatures, aquarium size etc

Black skirt tetra - these can be somewhat contentious in nature (and may be running the whole tank, depending ... though looking at the photos it seems a bit of a free-for-all)
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/gymnocorymbus-ternetzi/

Rosy tetra
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hyphessobrycon-rosaceus/

Glowlight tetra
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/hemigrammus-erythrozonus/

Harlequin rasbora - you seem to have a “purple” or “blue” morph (these occur naturally but have been line bred)
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/trigonostigma-heteromorpha/

Marble hatchet
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/carnegiella-strigata/

Platy type (these are often of very mixed lineage with crosses to sword and molly lines very common, your appear predominantly “platy” based upon appearance)
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/search/platy

Bristlenose pleco - these will often “clean” sword leafs to death, also any other broad leaf, they can also damage Anubias leafs when not fed appropriate foods, they should also have access to wood for rasping
Overall they are rather messy fish but all of this is manageable :)
These fish can be territorial and if your female has been alone for years, I’d be careful about introducing additional bristlenoses or similar species
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/ancistrus-cf-cirrhosus/


A more thorough article discussing the likely identity of the “common aquarium bristlenose” (which has more color forms available seemingly every year ;) ... not to mention some dyed versions (thankfully rare))
https://www.planetcatfish.com/shanesworld/shanesworld.php?article_id=377


All of your fish seem somewhat faded in color - likely a response to the pale substrate
They are also rather robust in appearance so reduced rations would be a kindness (fish develop fatty deposits around their organs, inside the liver, inside blood vessels etc), the increased swimming room and current should help as well

Most of the fish you have are shoaling/schooling fish and in larger tank, many will display more complex behaviours (though some of these behaviours are dependent on shoal number)

Rasboras are actually great fun to watch as they display levels of behaviour depending on group size (I’d suggest 16-20 for the 90cm tank)

Will you be shutting down the existing tank?

When adding new fish to an established community, I always recommend the use of a quarantine tank for at least 2 weeks (a month is even better) and this is regardless of how the local shop may have (or not) quarantined fish pre-sale

You can accomplish this by adding the new fish into the new planted tank - which works out grand IF they are healthy but it not so nice if you end up having to treat for white spot/ich (very very prevalent in newly shipped fish)
Of course placing the fish into a new, clean tank with loads of water/per fish will often help most fish clear up any slight diseases - especially with frequent large water changes (the water column component of the disease organism is remover)

Or you can transfer your existing fish over and switch that tank to a quarantine tank
I recommend a 40 - 60 litre aquarium, 60cm in length is better in terms of swimming space (given your present adult fish) and you can also use this as a hospital tank
Most plants will manage some treatments, but extended treatments can cause plant melt depending upon species, also combined medications + heat treatments are never recommended for plants (or fish really, many diseases compromise fish gill tissue, making respiration difficult, combine this with increased temperature ie substantially reduced water oxygen levels + the fact that most medication active components sequester oxygen ...)

Wow! Thank you for the detailed and thorough response. It’s definitely been a bit of a pick and mix in that tank as it’s been set up for many many years and fish have passed away and we’ve been unable to find the same so have been replaced with different fish. TBH i’d prefer less variety and more of each. Some of the fish will definitely be traded in (if the wife allows it) :)
 

GlenD

Member
Joined
26 Jun 2019
Messages
161
Location
London
Okay, I have a second question. The new system already has some now nerite snails Amarno shrimp and cherry shrimp. Will any of these fish not be okay with them?
 

Conort2

Member
Joined
16 Feb 2018
Messages
401
Location
London
Okay, I have a second question. The new system already has some now nerite snails Amarno shrimp and cherry shrimp. Will any of these fish not be okay with them?
Cherry shrimp may end up as snacks for the bigger tetras, however you may get away with it. All depends if the shrimp fully grown, which they’re often not when purchased from retailers.

Cheers

Conor
 
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