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Front Loading

Clemson13

New Member
Joined
2 Jun 2018
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Location
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Is Front loading acceptable in a new aquascape? While shopping for Auto dosing pumps I stumbled across the front loading concept. Any downsides to consider? I'll be using Thrive All in One on a 100P aquarium. CO2 injection and large weekly water changes.
 
Hi all,
I'll be using Thrive All in One on a 100P aquarium.
Front loading should be all right. <"Thrive all in one"> doesn't contain ammonia (or urea) so that isn't an issue.

Ingredients below:
Niloq-Thrive.jpg

My <"only problem"> with it <"would just be cost">, at $28 for 500 mL.

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS
Total Nitrogen (N) 2.5600%
2.5600% Water Soluble Nitrogen (N)
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 1.5800%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 9.7400% .............

cheers Darrel
 
Thanks Darrel. I briefly thought about going with dry salts/DIY All in one. But I can get a 4,000ml bottle of Thrive for $77 (which would cover me for a few years). May look into mixing my own down the road, but I did not want to get sucked into the weeds at the start.
 
Any reason to target APT Complete levels versus EI? On the 2HR Aquarist, Dennis posts some levels that are slightly leaner than EI. The leaner levels are what his APT complete line targets. Maybe its all a wash if I am doing weekly water changes? And maybe the leaner levels put me more as risk of running out of nutrients if I front load?

The whole goal is slowing down growth. I'm going with a fern/epiphyte heavy tank, but mixing in easy stems to help me balance things out.
 
Hi all,
..... The whole goal is slowing down growth. I'm going with a fern/epiphyte heavy tank, but mixing in easy stems to help me balance things out.....
I'd stop the CO2 (or just add ~ 15 ppm?) and then you can use the <"Duckweed Index"> to keep you in the "Goldilocks Zone" - <"Low Tech Fertiliser Dosing. Whats your technique?">.

Because your fertiliser addition is based on the growth of a non-CO2 limited plant, you can modify your dosing regime to anywhere along the <"running on petrol fumes" to "triffid"> plant growth continuum.

Cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,

I'd stop the CO2 (or just add ~ 15 ppm?) and then you can use the "Duckweed Index" to keep you in the "Goldilocks Zone ".

Because your fertiliser addition is based on the growth of a non-CO2 limited plant, you can modify your dosing regime to anywhere along the "running on petrol fumes" to "triffid" continuum.

Cheers Darrel

I have been really tempted to target 15ppm. I read about diluting the drop checker solution 50/50 with RO. Long term, I would rather run a tank this way for the sake of the fish. But I don't want to add to much complexity at the start.

I would be scared to skip CO2 entirely, as most of the aquascapers claim it makes the epiphytes look better. I know I have never had nice Trident or narrowleaf java fern in my tanks (no CO2)
 
Hi all,
Turn the lights down.
I agree that high light, lots of nutrients and low levels of Dissolved Inorganic Carbon (DIC) is likely to lead <"to lots of green algae">. Personally I use a floating plant <"as my net curtain">, but <"reducing light intensity"> is another option.
I have been really tempted to target 15ppm. ..........I would rather run a tank this way for the sake of the fish. But I don't want to add to much complexity at the start.
We have a thread <"Long term effects of co2 exposure">. I think that former member Marcel G(olias) recommended no more than 15 ppm of CO2.
I read about diluting the drop checker solution 50/50 with RO
That should work.
I would be scared to skip CO2 entirely, as most of the aquascapers claim it makes the epiphytes look better.
I'm not arguing that most plants won't grow better with some added CO2, they will, even slow growing ones. I'm <"not a CO2 user">, but if I was? I'd run at no higher than 15 ppm CO2

cheers Darrel
 
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Appreciate the input.

Regarding light, I tried to turn it down on my last attempt. But in reality, the Twinstar 900S at 50-60% was probably way to much light. The stems did great, but my epiphytes did poorly/grew algae.

Ady's tank inspired me to try again(Re-education) and he ran 20-25% at the beginning. I'm going to try and copy that and see how I do. Plus, I have a controller now to tweak the dimming a little better.

In regards to CO2, I went through that thread about the Long term effects of co2 plus a few others. I guess the issue is if your not actually getting good CO2 distribution? That was my take away. For a lot of you, lack of CO2 would be apparent. But I don't know if I would be able to tell. I'm still trying to decide on equipment. Like you Darrel, I like the classic Eheims. I have two 2217 models, but not sure if I will run one or two. But I think I will need to get that dialed in before messing with the CO2 levels. I'm using an in-tank diffuser.
 
Hi all,
Ady's tank inspired me to try again(Re-education) and he ran 20-25% at the beginning. I'm going to try and copy that and see how I do. Plus, I have a controller now to tweak the dimming a little better.
That is one of the problems, our eyes are really poor at judging light intensity. That was the reason for running bright and letting the plant mass grow until it uses up <"all the available PAR">, but I've probably never had a light that allowed me to go full <"Klingon">.
I guess the issue is if your not actually getting good CO2 distribution?
You will need a CO2 user to advise you. I've never been tempted to use CO2, partially because <"I only want slow plant growth"> and partially because I'd find it <"hard to forgive myself"> if I asphyxiated the fish.
Like you Darrel, I like the classic Eheims.
Yes, I like a <"pump in a bucket">. They are <"design Classics"> and you can get replacement parts for them etc,.

cheers Darrel
 
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