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Getting a gravel top layer with Nature Soil.

ukco2guy

Member
Joined
9 May 2010
Messages
221
Location
Swindon UK
Hi,

A couple of months ago i dry started a 60cm scape which grew very well but shortly after flooding i had a big BGA outbreak which resulted in a 4 day blackout. The blackout seems to have knocked out all of the BGA, well it has not returned yet after about 10 days :) (Clive as ever thank you so much for the guidance). Since the blackout a large amount of my HC has been wiped out but their is alot of roots so i have left it in the hope that it would grow back but since flooding i have regretted just using Oli Knott Nature soil as for me it`s a pain to work with, any slight movement and everything gets covered in powdered soil :(

I have been toying with the idea of getting a layer of something on top so that it looks better and also so i can add/change plants as i need to without bringing a load of soil up with it. So ideas guys? What would be worth considering and are their any specifics i should consider like particle size etc as i don`t want it to mix up too much. I was thinking quartz or maybe a light gravel, again worried it would just look like tarmac if it mixed up :) If i do change this then i`ll just rip out all the HC roots and re-scape it saving some of the HC, as i don`t have any fauna in there at the moment i guess it wouldn`t hurt to do a 100% water change as i`d prefer to attempt all this without any water in the tank.

Cheers,
 
I am considering something similar. Currently mineralizing garden top soil which I am going to use as base. Mineralization should turn all organic material into inorganic which should prevent algae once you flood it with water. I am also thinking of dry start method and currently reading from Tom Barr that during DSM you are actually mineralizing topsoil already so you can skip whole messy process. Currently during this process mineralized topsoil start to look like Tetra Plant Substate.

My plan is to use simple unipac black sand as topping and topsoil as base + potasium chlodire and pottery clay. I am going to try it on 14L nano. I totally opted out of any expensive substrates as I see no point in them and I like to experiment.

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/foru ... albot.html

but as Said with DSM you can skip whole messy process
 
Theoretically, if the grain size of the top layer is larger than that of the underlying base then this slows or prevents mixing. However, gravitational forces are amazing, so if the top layer material is significantly heavier, than it can penetrate the underlying base over time.

Cheers,
 
I have heard of those who place nylon mesh or netting over the top of soil and then cover with fine gravel or sand.
Would seem to me that if netting was not to fine,that roots could still penetrate and perhaps soil would not be displaced so easily.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the comments guys. For now i have re-scaped and used some slate covered in Riccia to almost cover part of the tank until i can get some decent rocks, i figure once those are in and i plant more heavily then their should not be that much nature soil exposed and hopefully it`ll reduce any movement.

Cheers,
 
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