Green small roots on my red root floaters!

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
I was wondering why almost all the pics I see of red root floaters and the ones I bought them from at the lfs are longer and red compared to the ones in my tank? I’ve had them for a while and they grow and cover almost the whole top but the roots aren’t red or the tops. And the tops don’t have the bubbled look. They are almost flat and green. I dose Nilocg thrive all in one fert 3 times a week. I have a Chihiros rgb 60 set at 47% as of today and am slowly raising it to try and avoid algae even though I still get it on the glass haha! Any ideas on why the roots are so small and green even though they are growing and I toss a few when I do water changes cause they start stacking!? Thank you for any help cause the whole reason I got them was for the cool looking red roots!
 

Attachments

Joined
20 Jul 2018
Messages
357
Location
Netherlands
The roots are always small, they get red only under really high light.. At me they only color a bit orange direct under the light spot.. Place some in a cup outside in the sun you will see that they get red.
 

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
The roots are always small, they get red only under really high light.. At me they only color a bit orange direct under the light spot.. Place some in a cup outside in the sun you will see that they get red.
Thanks! Was just wondering cause the ones at my lfs that I got them from the roots are 3 times as long and the tops are pinkish red! Maybe mine just need more time? I think they are using a fluval 2.0 or 3.0 and the light is directly on them. What light do you use and what ferts and how often do you dose? Thank you for the info.
 
Joined
20 Jul 2018
Messages
357
Location
Netherlands
I dose my own mix made of salts.. Just macros weekly at water change day and micros every day. It is based on Estimative-index. The lights are aquamedic qube plant. I use them at 80% at +-20cm from the surface..
 

dw1305

Expert
Joined
7 Apr 2008
Messages
10,465
Location
nr Bath
Hi all,
the ones at my lfs that I got them from the roots are 3 times as long and the tops are pinkish red!
It might be a nutrient, as well <"as light">, effect.

Floating plants with a large root to leaf ratio have usually grown in a fairly low nutrient environment. The plant can <"choose" where they allocate growth"> ("biomass partitioning"). If the plant puts a large proportion of its biomass into root growth it is usually in a low nutrient environment.

There won't be any research of Phyllanthus, but there is some on Duckweed (Lemna minor) which shows that phosphate levels and root length are inversely related.

Same applies with nitrogen, <"plants grown in a lower nitrogen environment"> will have less less chlorophyll content and this will allow other pigments (like anthocyanins) to show through.

This is why deciduous tree leaves turn red in the autumn, the plant withdraws the chlorophyll from the leaf and the, previously masked, red pigments then show up.

cheers Darrel
 

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
I dose my own mix made of salts.. Just macros weekly at water change day and micros every day. It is based on Estimative-index. The lights are aquamedic qube plant. I use them at 80% at +-20cm from the surface..
Thank you. This is how they looked when I first got them.
 

Attachments

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
Hi all, It might be a nutrient, as well <"as light">, effect.

Floating plants with a large root to leaf ratio have usually grown in a fairly low nutrient environment. The plant can <"choose" where they allocate growth"> ("biomass partitioning"). If the plant puts a large proportion of its biomass into root growth it is usually in a low nutrient environment.

There won't be any research of Phyllanthus, but there is some on Duckweed (Lemna minor) which shows that phosphate levels and root length are inversely related.

Same applies with nitrogen, <"plants grown in a lower nitrogen environment"> will have less less chlorophyll content and this will allow other pigments (like anthocyanins) to show through.

This is why deciduous tree leaves turn red in the autumn, the plant withdraws the chlorophyll from the leaf and the, previously masked, red pigments then show up.

cheers Darrel
Thank you for the info! That’s why I got on this forum! So what your saying is maybe I have to many nutrients in the water and that’s why they are green and don’t have longer red roots? I dose this 3 times a week! 3 pumps every 3 days then 2 pumps 2 days before my weekly water change! I have a big Java fern and Anubis also!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

dw1305

Expert
Joined
7 Apr 2008
Messages
10,465
Location
nr Bath
Hi all,
No the length of the roots could be nutrients, the red color should be light. I have short roots also, here it grows like duckweed I have to scoop the half out every week.
That would be my guess.
I have to many nutrients in the water and that’s why they are green and don’t have longer red roots? I dose this 3 times a week! 3 pumps every 3 days then 2 pumps 2 days before my weekly water change! I have a big Java fern and Anubis also!
You could try less nutrients, both your Anubias (<"Anubias barteri">) and Java fern (<"Microsorum pteropus">) don't have high nutrient requirements. I'd also investigate turning the LED intensity up.

Ideally you want to change the parameters one at a time. I'd try higher light first, if you get
  • Redder leaves,
  • don't have an algae out-break, and
  • your other plants look OK.
I'd settle for that. If that remains the same for a couple of weeks, then I would have a go at dialing the nutrients back, again observing what happens.

cheers Darrel
 

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
Hi all,That would be my guess. You could try less nutrients, both your Anubias (<"Anubias barteri">) and Java fern (<"Microsorum pteropus">) don't have high nutrient requirements. I'd also investigate turning the LED intensity up.

Ideally you want to change the parameters one at a time. I'd try higher light first, if you get
  • Redder leaves,
  • don't have an algae out-break, and
  • your other plants look OK.
I'd settle for that. If that remains the same for a couple of weeks, then I would have a go at dialing the nutrients back, again observing what happens.

cheers Darrel
Thank you. Yeah I have been raising the light slowly. When I raised the light 3% the other day I started to get some white film on the glass almost right away. Kinda frustrating! I’ve been trying to raise it 5% a week. 3% the day of a water change and 2% 4 days after the water change. The one time I got impatient I raised it from 35% to 50% I got this fine green hair like algae on my java fern and Anubis! I still have a little of it on some of the leaves and try to pull it off when I do water changes. Also some of the old leaves on my Java fern and Anubis have been turning yellow. The new growth though seems to be ok!
 

Attachments

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
Also I really wanted that bubbled look on the tops at least. They seem very flat looking to me compared to how they looked when I got them. Any ideas on how to get that look back? I really appreciate answering all my questions! Thank you.
 
Joined
20 Jul 2018
Messages
357
Location
Netherlands
I had a hanfull off floaters last waterchange, dropped them in a bowl outside just to see what happens, after three days the already showing some orange and it was mostly gray and rainy days..
 

DD1880

Member
Joined
12 Jul 2019
Messages
149
Location
Us
I had a hanfull off floaters last waterchange, dropped them in a bowl outside just to see what happens, after three days the already showing some orange and it was mostly gray and rainy days..
I really want that color and bubbled look in my tank! And the red roots!
 
Top