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Hydor inline heater on Fluval profile/Fluval 405

madlan

Member
Joined
29 Sep 2010
Messages
241
Location
Stevenage, Hertfordshire
Hi all,

I have a Fluval Profile aquarium with a drilled bottom for the 405 pump inlet/outlet.
I want to use an inline heater and a Co2 reactor but the hoses are ribbed, has anyone replaced them?

I'm not sure if the connectors on the tank can take a non ribbed hose?

Would it be best to put the heater on the inlet and reactor on the outlet?

Thanks.
 
I use a Fluval with a Hydor 300, I had to replace the tube with Eheim as I couldn't get a good fit with the ribbed stuff.
I'm not sure of the connections under the profiles I'm afraid
 
So that's half of the problem, could I ask what size tubing you used? I'm going to order the Hydor and some tube and have a look - The tank is still boxed so not really sure how the connector works yet.
 
I think if you get some Eheim 12/16 tubing you will cover all the necessary sizes. If you heat it in a cup of boiling water before fitting it and use a relevant size jubilee clip you should manage to get it to clamp down on, or expand up over a good span of diameters. As it cools under the pressure of the clip it will take a good grip. One thing to bear in mind and it is only an observation, if you have a Hydor on the inlet and a filter full of media and a reactor on the outlet you may be struggling for flow. I have a 405 on my sons 150l tank with no restrictions and it is OK but not stunning, the flow from the spraybar is adequate. It is just before you set it all up and then run in to problems, it may be better to forget the Hydor and hide a standard heater to help the flow into the reactor, because if this is insufficent there will not be enough flow to generate the reaction and it may just allow the CO2 through as bubbles or it will gather in the reactor and be discharged as a big bubble!! Just trying to help :thumbup: kind regards Colin. :)
 
I'm pretty sure the standard ribbed hose is 17/22mm. I have a AM1000 setup on my 405 and use a length of tubing to connect the outflow to the reactor and then I'm using the standard ribbed hose to connect from the reactor to the outlet (spray bar) and the same ribbed hose on the inlet to the filter. I had to keep the ribbed hose to be able to get the hose over the rim of the tank, u obviously wont have that problem so you should be able to just replace the hose all together. I agree with the jubilee clips

I must admit that the flow from the spray bar isn't overly impressive through the AM1000 reactor. I've also taken out the bio-balls from the reactor to increase the flow.
 
I've got some standard fluval tubing that fits great - the eheim stuff had thick walls that wouldn't secure properly.
Flow wise, I've just purchased a koralia 4000lph as I thought the flow on the fluval 405 would be reduced - I'm hoping it will be enough to power the reactor and heater though as a second external pump defeats the point of the drilled tank. (I could upgrade to a more powerful external though if it really came to it)

Thanks for your advice all.
 
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