Hygrophila Melt and other general concerns

jscottm1981

New Member
Joined
2 Jun 2020
Messages
4
Location
United States
Hello UKAPS!

This is my first forum post, although I’ve been a fairly frequent visitor for many years. This forum is such a wealth of information, but I’m afraid I’m at my wits end trying to figure out what the problems I’m having are. I’ve tried for months to trouble shoot and dial it in on my own, but I just can’t get over the hump. Anyway, thanks for your time, and onto the topic at hand:

Hygrophila siamensis - it grows, rather prolifically as it’s known to do, and then it just melts. I don’t bother them - I haven’t even trimmed them - because they always end up melting way back.
1f4bd392ef4a841fc1c1ca31a35ea2be.jpg




Crypt (various from wendtii to petchii to ustriana) all are doing okay, although some better than others. The browns do much better than the greens.

Dreaded BBA. Not a problem on my anubias, but rather problematic on my narrow leaf java and bucephalandra.
bdaee09f72c4a9d971a83b2c43b7b107.jpg

1a6c971444f5d177574c48b192160670.jpg




Minor to decent staghorn algae on lower rocks and wood, and a bit in my fissidens fontanus. On the topic of fissidens, it seems to be a little more brown than it is green.
9fcebf1a79ff475ddfb5ebb2f313a172.jpg


As an aside, I dealt with diatom/brown algae for what seemed like a long first 2-3 months (planted and cycled in early/mid-February) but in recent weeks, it hasn’t been much of an issue.

Also, I have next to zero green algae present. Not sure if due to parameters or cleanup crew.

My tank setup:

Waterbox 72 gallon/300 liters? (48x20x20, sorry, here)

Two Oase Biomaster 600s
In/out on opposite ends of tank, one glass lily pipe set higher for good surface agitation.
I feel my circulation is good.

Lighting is Finnex 24/7 CRV on default 24/7 mode

Pressurized CO2, with inline diffuser
On at 4am, off at 2pm
Drop checker stays med-light green, no fish stress, PH probably shifts somewhere between 6.3-6.8

Tap water in North Carolina is pretty neutral and and clean. I have no idea what the Gh/Kh is.

Autodosing PPS (default mixture, premixed) daily 6:45am
Macro 13ml
Micro 2ml (I figured not much red/high demand plants)
I also autodose EasyCarbo (10ml) at 8am

I perform at LEAST one large (50-70%) water change a week, but usually two.

Planted substrate is ADA Amazonia Lite, with ADA La Plata sand used in open spaces.

Plant list:

My intention was to use slower/less demanding plants

Dwarf sag (“ground cover” in the back)
Hygrophila Difformis
Hygrophila Siamensis
Some kind of basic rotala
Hygrophila pinnatafida
Anubias coffeefolia
Anubias nana petite
Two random small buce types
Narrow/trident java fern
Crypt green/brown/usteriana/retrospiralis
Fissidens fontanus
One pathetic strand of bolbitis

015fe809412692769c1afa34fdae0f00.jpg



Stock list:

GBR pair
A. Macmasteri pair
20+/- rummy nose tetra
7 false Julii corydoras
4? Otocinclus
6? Amano shrimp
8+? Zebra thorned nerite snails

I think that’s everything. It’s probably something very simple, I’m just missing the target. Thanks again, and I look forward to your replies!
 

Zeus.

Member
Joined
1 Oct 2016
Messages
3,043
Location
Yorkshire,UK
Because you are adding CO2 but have <"relatively lean dosing"> you may just not be supplying enough nutrients for the light
+1

So too much light and not enough nutrients and plants main nutrient is Carbon aka CO2

Need more details on your CO2 method or apply a better method.

CO2 needs to be stable from lights on till CO2 off.

So you will need to measure pH with pH pen or papers from pre CO2 on every 30 mins till CO2 off.

The goal is to get the pH/[CO2] as stable as possible once lights come on till CO2 off.

So doing a pH profile is often the best way forward to help check the [CO2] is stable and a Drop Checker (DC) IMO is the best way to see what your [CO2] is. A DC does have a delay on the [CO2] of about two hours, but once you have a stable pH the DC colour change two hours later is the [CO2] for all the period the pH is stable

To rule out all other nutrient deficiencies best to dose an EI dose at first with weekly 50% Water Changes (WC) IMO. reducing fert dosing once everything is growing healthy well slowly later is fine watching your plants all the time

Most problems on tanks with CO2 injection is poor implementation which results in fluctuating [CO2] which leads to poor growth, pinholes, melting, increase Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOC) which in-turn leads to Algae and BBA etc.

Increasing the WC frequency and or % WC also helps control the DOC levels which in-turn help reduce/control algae
 

jscottm1981

New Member
Joined
2 Jun 2020
Messages
4
Location
United States
+1

So too much light and not enough nutrients and plants main nutrient is Carbon aka CO2

Need more details on your CO2 method or apply a better method.

CO2 needs to be stable from lights on till CO2 off.

So you will need to measure pH with pH pen or papers from pre CO2 on every 30 mins till CO2 off.

The goal is to get the pH/[CO2] as stable as possible once lights come on till CO2 off.

So doing a pH profile is often the best way forward to help check the [CO2] is stable and a Drop Checker (DC) IMO is the best way to see what your [CO2] is. A DC does have a delay on the [CO2] of about two hours, but once you have a stable pH the DC colour change two hours later is the [CO2] for all the period the pH is stable

To rule out all other nutrient deficiencies best to dose an EI dose at first with weekly 50% Water Changes (WC) IMO. reducing fert dosing once everything is growing healthy well slowly later is fine watching your plants all the time

Most problems on tanks with CO2 injection is poor implementation which results in fluctuating [CO2] which leads to poor growth, pinholes, melting, increase Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOC) which in-turn leads to Algae and BBA etc.

Increasing the WC frequency and or % WC also helps control the DOC levels which in-turn help reduce/control algae
Thank you for your response!

I have been running my CO2 from 4am to 2pm (plants draw up around 5pm). I was thinking that low CO2 may be my problem, although the only indicator I have is a DC, and it shows pretty light green. Ive been a bit afraid to go any higher because my fish/shrimp seem to suffocate right when I’m not looking.

I changed the run time from 4am-2pm to 4-5pm.



As far as flow and CO2 implementation, is as follows:

Blue is the output with inline CO2 diffuser, with standard lily pipe; flow running just under the surface.
Red is an influx lily pipe, which directs water down.
Yellow are intakes.
DC is behind intake on right side of tank.

I’m also starting to get staghorn on the sand in the open area on the left.

I’m not well-versed in EI method, but I’ll try to calculate a premix and give it a shot.

Thanks again, guys. Your help really means a lot to me.
 
Top